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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 4, '06 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Hi what is a Safe boosted on 3sgte 3rd gen some forums are saying 18 psi ??
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 25, '06 From Box Elder, South Dakota Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
Wow man not to sound rude or anything but you couldve looked a few threads down or just searched for what you were looking for...Also there is google...
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=79785 Or yes, 17psi (1.1 bar) is the accepted safe norm to turn up your boost that wouldnt cause any damage to your engine. -------------------- (\__/)
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 4, '06 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Thanks bro not rude at all... I should had looking down put just did a quick posted ...
New to the hole changing boosted and the air/fuel EMS So if i was to tune my boosted controller to 12-14 psi let say when the turbo start to open ... does that cause more damage on the turbo over time ? not the great question but just what to makes sure i don't mess up my 3sgte just installing a wide band AFR- AEM ... was looking to tune the AFR but after reading that form i like your point's on using a piggy-back system for the air/fuel what do u think on the blitz or HKS piggy-backs ? see some used for 400-500 $$ |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) ![]() |
dude you need to do alot more reaasearch before you start slapping piggy backs on and changing things. i have seen so many cases exactly like yours, that come to me with blown engines. you need to understand exactly what you are about to do and how it causes engine failures.
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 19, '11 From Paraguay, Winchestertonfieldville Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
+2 definitely do your research man
ct20b turbo = 17 max psi before it starts taking the heat 17 psi = fuel cut you can probably boost to 20 psi but with Water/Meth injection ALS will blow the **** out of your ceramic turbine wheel Oh and just go standalone...A Power FC will go a long way. I slapped on a giant turbo on my 3sgte and blew my piston rings (thank god only that), I reached 23 psi with water/alky injection had oil shoot up my dip stick and almost caught on fire. not fun. This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jul 11, 2011 - 9:20 AM -------------------- |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 25, '06 From Box Elder, South Dakota Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
Thanks bro not rude at all... I should had looking down put just did a quick posted ... New to the hole changing boosted and the air/fuel EMS So if i was to tune my boosted controller to 12-14 psi let say when the turbo start to open ... does that cause more damage on the turbo over time ? not the great question but just what to makes sure i don't mess up my 3sgte just installing a wide band AFR- AEM ... was looking to tune the AFR but after reading that form i like your point's on using a piggy-back system for the air/fuel what do u think on the blitz or HKS piggy-backs ? see some used for 400-500 $$ I think you are trying to take the right steps, investing in a boost controller and wideband gauge (which are honestly great investments). But like SMAAY said, you should probably try to take things a bit slower...like for example, what is your overall goal with the car. It might seem like a great idea to turn up the boost, or go for whatever tune you want but you should set some goals first..Attainable ones that wont end in a destroyed car or engine, lol... -------------------- (\__/)
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 4, '06 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Thank for the input .. i'm on the site doing some research did the swap my-self last some took to the dyno at the end last summer car has been running mint !!
Not looking to just add thing to car and hope is goes faster ... got boots gauge cause don't have one y not get a controller and gauge in one ... and the wide-band FAR is a safety in my mine my goal just keep the car running mint looking good and get my booster gauge running to add HP with out running the motor to hard same with the fuel-air the stock is rich ... so y not get bit more out of it |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 25, '06 From Box Elder, South Dakota Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
Cool stuff man, good to hear that! What did the dyno plot look like btw? Mind posting up the results? Anywho i hear ya on the boost gauge thing. I use my boost controller as a boost gauge as well ( i mean why not) so yea i understand you on that completely!
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Jul 13, '11 From Lincs, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I think I might go down the wideband gauge idea...but I am guessing that if I ask how expensive or how difficult is it to do, the answer will be it's as long as a piece of string and you get what you pay for!
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 25, '06 From Box Elder, South Dakota Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
Well if you were wondering installing the wideband (depending on what you get) youll more than likely have to either weld an O2 bung into your exhaust somewhere (ie: downpipe) or if your DP already came with a bung pre-installed just for an additonal O2 sensor then you are good to go...After that the wiring part, which is stupid easy and straightforward. The harderst part IMHO is where to put the gauge....i myself am just picky i guess??
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Jul 13, '11 From Lincs, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Welding the plug onto stainless downpipe is not a problem for me
![]() I too did think about where the gauge would go and its bugging me! |
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