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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 4, '09 From coral springs florida US Currently Offline Reputation: 21 (100%) ![]() |
after my convertion of drums to discs my e-brake wasnt braking well. the problem was that the e-brake shoes werent expanding enough to hold the discs.
while i was adjustin it, I decided to take some pictures and help some people if they are having the the same issue. first jack up the car with jack stands ![]() remove wheels ![]() loose the 2 bolts that holds the caliper from the back. its a 14 ![]() remove caliper and disc. (if your e-brake is engaged you wont be able to remove the disc) ![]() by turning these teeh the shoes will expand and that will make the shoes to get closer to the disc. so when you pull the ebrake it is going to hold better. VERY IMPORTANT---> e-brake handle have to be down (at the lowest point) when you put your disc back. and when you put the disc back it should rotate smooth without rubbing the shoes. ![]() after doing this if you e-brake handle gets too tight or too loose when you pull it. adjust the handle from the inside of the car as batman says in this link--> very easy... http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=43768 -------------------- ![]() |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 3, '05 From Richmond, B.C. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Properly this is done with the rotor installed, and held in place with the lug nuts.
There's an access hole in the rotor, which should be lined up with the largest hole on the hub face -- the other holes won't quite line up correctly due to the placement of the lugs. With the rotor in place, you can reach through these holes to adjust the shoe position. The BGB calls for the shoes to be adjusted outwards until the rotor locks, then reversed eight notches. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 15, '09 From yonkers, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
i thought there was a hole behind it where you can adjust it with the wheel still on and everything. same thing your adjusting just from the back (or maybe its just in the GT models not sure)
-------------------- *Thing i want for my car(i wish i had money)*
-light blue tint (next step will do this right after i get my paint job) WTB Reasonably priced Projectors just Lows |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 3, '05 From Richmond, B.C. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Wheel must be off, rotor should be on -- the hole is in the rotor, not the wheel.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 15, '09 From yonkers, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
your right my bad but i know some car definetly do which makes it so much easier to adjust. actually if there is nothing behind that i might drill a hole there just big enough so i can adjust it with a small flat head. well at least im considering that now.
-------------------- *Thing i want for my car(i wish i had money)*
-light blue tint (next step will do this right after i get my paint job) WTB Reasonably priced Projectors just Lows |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 15, '10 From The Best Coast Currently Offline Reputation: 12 (100%) ![]() |
Leave the rotor on and adjust it through the hole, with the ebrake down fully tighten the shoes until you can feel the shoes catching, then back off a turn and your done. There is also an adjustment nut on the ebrake cable in the cabin.
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