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> Gen II AFM Relocation
post Oct 16, 2011 - 10:32 PM
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Fastbird

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Ok, so after being away for 10 months, I finally got back and found that my poor car was running like TRASH and couldn't be driven. So saturday I start exploring. I find this:



Ok, no biggie, it's almost a 20 year old inlet tube now. This was AT the turbo. I was burrowing around because the car is acting like it's an air leak. I had the AFM off to see if it was stuck and noticed a LOT of light at the back of the hose. So, I'd been thinking about doing a relocation on the AFM for a couple of reasons. Straighter inlet, and room for a bigger filter. Initially I was going to order in some aluminum tubing and do some welding, but I had a single Spectre modular intake tube piece laying around, and I thought, Hmmmm.....let's see what happens. The piece was a 45* bend, and I'll be danged if it didn't fit PERFECTLY on the turbo inlet!

So, off to the big box parts store I went. Total parts were as follows:

2 x 45* Bends ($11.00 each)
1 x Straight ($9.00)
1 x Sensor Adapter Piece ($11.00)
1 x 3" Coupler (7.00)
1 x 3" Aluminum Inlet Tube Adapter for Gen II 3S-GTE's ($13.00)
1 x 3" to 3.25" silicone coupler I had laying around (approx $8.00 from various places)
1 x Spectre medium sized high flow filter I had laying around (around $20-30 from the stores)

These Spectre pieces are neat. Yes, they're plastic, but each end is grooved for an O-Ring (included) and the clamps they come with seal everything VERY nicely. On the inside, when put together, they're nearly seamless and extremely smooth. I have to say that I was actually quite impressed.

So.......Here's some pics of how it came out, and I'll have a piece by piece explanation below:







So......connected in order: 45* - Sensor Adapter - Straight - 45* - AFM - Inlet Tube

Put the 3" coupler OVER the top 45* piece, flush with the end of the tube. This way a good clamp (I used a T-Bolt) can sinch down evenly on the plastic without breaking it. It WILL secure to the turbo inlet this way.

On the spectre filter, the smallest adapter ring needs modded. You need to shave off the stop step on the inside of the ring. This it to allow it to seat FULLY on to the 3" aluminum inlet for a little more down low clearance where the filter sits. You also need to remove the rubber grommet from the new aluminum inlet tube.

The aluminum inlet tube won't fit right off the bat. You have to shave down the plastic adapter plate to open it up all the way, then redrill the inlet tube flange itself. Not a difficult thing.

Then use some vacuum hose to extend the PCV hoses to the new sensor adapter tube and use the vacuum fittings that are included with the tube.

I simply cut and spliced extensions into the AFM wiring harness, using a Packard Metri-Pack 150 plug set I keep on hand.

Doing this, the AFM gets relocated underneath the battery and the filter will sit in the inside of the left fender right in front of the tire. Safe, secure, cool fresh air, and a direct shot into the turbo through a 3" tube, all for a total investment of under $100. I'll post up a finished pic tomorrow.

Unfortunately, this did NOT fix my running issue! But it needed doing anyway, so all's well.

This post has been edited by Fastbird: Oct 16, 2011 - 10:33 PM


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post Oct 16, 2011 - 11:43 PM
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smkr3w



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Welcome back, nice work thumbsup.gif


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6gcHeroes:808hectortimmybatmandiegotigamak
post Oct 20, 2011 - 9:20 AM
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lagos



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You should get a reducer from 3in to 2.75 (or whatever the turbo is). That intake really has to be air tight because the afm is very sensitive and just trying to sinch it down could create air gaps that could cause the car to run poorly. Thats what I did with my custom intake.

This post has been edited by lagos: Oct 20, 2011 - 9:21 AM


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