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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '08 From Blainville Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
I've had a CEL on for about a month now that it's got cooler. Scanned it and got an ''infamous'' code 54. I've read about this problem pretty much everywhere. I looked at my IC coolant and seemed pretty good when engine was not running but I should make it run and see if it needs any more. Though the coolant is pink-ish/red. Is it the same coolant (prestone) as used in the rad? I've heard of the pump/pump bearing too. If the coolant doesn't solve the problem I'll go for the pump solution.
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 25, '06 From Box Elder, South Dakota Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
First off im going to assume that you actually checked to see if the coolant was flowing when the engine was under load. Easy way to check if you havent, is to let your car cool down a bit, and start the engine when it has. The pump runs whenever the the throttle is pressed upon. Therefore just pull the throttle a bit and if the fluid dosent start swirling about then YES your pump has died...then again you would notice when your pump dies since it makes a very irratting whine noise......
Anywho if your pump is working good at this point then your probably getting the code because your level sensor is broken. It happens more often that you think. From here you can either replace the sensor, OR disconnect the sensor from the wire harness and bridge the end of the connector (wire harness side) within itself. If your pump is dead you can rebuild it also by just replacing the bearings... QUOTE Maintenance - Servicing the Intercooler Pump This is applicable to Water/Air intercooled vehicles (ST165, ST185RC, ST205). When your pump becomes noisy it may be time to change its bearings. This is a very cheap operation compared to buying a new pump. The pump is located at the front of the car under the battery. To reach it you have to work from under the car. To remove the pump, you first need to disconnect the the two water hoses and then to unscrew the four nuts and bolts fixing it to your Celica body. Next, unscrew the two round-headed screws you will find at the back of the pump. Remove the pump itself. You can now unscrew S5 to extract the stator. You just need now to change the bearings B1 and B2. You can get bearings from any bearing manufacturer, but if you want to order them from Toyota the bearing references are 629ZZ for B1, and 609ZZ for B2. Before reassembling the engine don't forget to unscrew S3 and S4 in the way to extract the carbon contacts. Intercooler Pump Back Intercooler Pump Side Info is taken from gt4dc.co.uk... There is also a step by step PICTURE guide on gt4oc.net. -------------------- (\__/)
(='.'=) This is bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '08 From Blainville Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
First off im going to assume that you actually checked to see if the coolant was flowing when the engine was under load. Easy way to check if you havent, is to let your car cool down a bit, and start the engine when it has. The pump runs whenever the the throttle is pressed upon. Therefore just pull the throttle a bit and if the fluid dosent start swirling about then YES your pump has died...then again you would notice when your pump dies since it makes a very irratting whine noise...... Anywho if your pump is working good at this point then your probably getting the code because your level sensor is broken. It happens more often that you think. From here you can either replace the sensor, OR disconnect the sensor from the wire harness and bridge the end of the connector (wire harness side) within itself. If your pump is dead you can rebuild it also by just replacing the bearings... There is also a step by step PICTURE guide on gt4oc.net. Yes, I did this. Thanks though. But would you know what is the fluid that goes in the charge cooler? Is it regular toyota prestone? It was my first thought because it really looks the same color. If I still get the CEL I will go for the pump bearing 1st. I'm hearing a little whistle coming from this area, but it's nothing big. Barely noticeable if you don't pay attention. I would not think it's the sensor cause it only popped out when the weather reached under 0 celsius. It doesn't light up over freezing point. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 8, '09 From Netherlands Currently Offline Reputation: 54 (100%) ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '08 From Blainville Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
But would you know what is the fluid that goes in the charge cooler? Is it regular toyota prestone? It was my first thought because it really looks the same color. I hope this is useful for you.. ![]() It says not to mix engine coolant with intercooler coolant. Though it seems to be the exact same thing (50-70% ethylene glycol + distilled water). We didn't have the Gt-Four in Canada, though I guess the guy at Toyota could tell me what to use because I believe the coolant used in the St165 should be the same? I've read toyota red coolant was used by many owners and recommended by many. I guess that's what I'll be going with. This post has been edited by dudeofchaos: Jan 5, 2012 - 1:49 PM |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '08 From Blainville Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
When at the dealer and bought red coolant. Topped the IC and reseted the ECU. Everything seems great now. Yay! haha
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