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> 7A-FE ITB Project
post Jan 24, 2012 - 4:46 PM
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morag

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I'm Starting Individual throttle bodies project on the 7afe.I'll be putting CBR954RR throttle bodies witch have 40mm inlet on the vacuumed side witch line up fairly good with the Stock 7afe intake manifold. The throttle bodies go from 44mm on the trumpet side to 40mm in the vacuum, witch i think will make good air velocity for the stock FE head.
I intend to make a vacuum box to collect the vacuum from the ITB's and spread them in the bigger hoses for brake,map sensor,Fuel pressure regulator and etc(I have yet to figure out all the detail). I will be using 315cc Supra injector witch i've tested with the stock manifold(And it goes way rich).
What has been done so far is that I've cut the stock intake(Which i've got from the junkyard) and tomorrow i will see where exactly will they match up. I intend to use the stock 7afe injector fuel rail and mount the itb's after it. Tomorrow ITB lining and cutting a bit more if needed. Ah and forgot i will be using stock 7afe map sensor, TPS sensor and cbr1000rr manual idle air controller. If anybody is interested in this I'll be happy to see your opinion. I hope I make all clear tomorrow I'll make some good pics on all parts so far and all i intend to do smile.gif. See how this works out.
post Jan 24, 2012 - 5:11 PM
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bsamps4

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Sounds freaking awesome man!

Pet Peeve... witch=which.

Good luck with your build!


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post Jan 24, 2012 - 7:51 PM
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Bitter

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but the steep angle of the ports inside the head will pretty much road block that scavenging effect, don't you think?


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post Jan 25, 2012 - 5:38 AM
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morag

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I don't think so. In fact i think steep angle is really better for making power nearly all modern engines have steep angles, F1 cars have even narrower head design ( And they too use ITB's) Hayabusa has a very close valve angle to the 7a/4a - fe engines. We'll see. wink.gif
post Jan 25, 2012 - 8:39 AM
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Bitter

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Are you going to atleast run some longer duration cams?


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post Jan 25, 2012 - 5:00 PM
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Smaay

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dude that thing is going to be freaking loud!!!!!


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1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Jan 25, 2012 - 11:56 PM
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RobbMeeX

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Will need pics/videos.


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QUOTE (Araykhel @ Oct 10, 2011 - 6:32 PM) *
Today I learned that I need a turbo to complete me.
post Jan 26, 2012 - 6:08 AM
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morag

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This is a low budget build so no cam's YET.I'm planning alot of things but we'll see.Im grinding the intake manifold tubes so that the itb's can fit good.hopefully i'll mount them today and make some pics.
post Jan 27, 2012 - 4:57 PM
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morag

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here's whats up so far.next step TPS sensor plate and vacuum box

can see images ?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/29/image020dx.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/image011yw.jpg/
post Jan 27, 2012 - 11:54 PM
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kurt95gt



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Thats gonna look bada$$


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post Feb 2, 2012 - 2:57 PM
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morag

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so m8's here's the progress ITB's are rdy and will be mounted tomorrow to hear it ROAR


Here's the TPS sensor plate that i made my self.If you want to do it this way you need to put the plate exacly the same way for the tps to match to bolts(You need to make tps holes a bit bigger)

I placed the vacuums in the existing injetor holes in the itb cuz i wont be using them. makes a good vacuum for brakes and things


Here it is from above. the full thing


Ah and now the good staff a vacuum tank .Cuz i said this is realy low budget build it's homemade from a pvc pipe tongue.gif it seals realy nice.


i will be glad to see what you thing i'll upload a video of the first start of the car. Next thing new cams and high compression pistons wink.gif




This post has been edited by morag: Feb 2, 2012 - 3:12 PM
post Feb 3, 2012 - 1:00 AM
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celica-s

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i've always wanted to this. there are ITB's available here from 4AGE BT. watch mode. smile.gif

keep post sir.
post Feb 3, 2012 - 4:34 AM
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morag

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the thing is that you don't need larger then 40mm throttles. cuz the port is small. i dont know how big are the BT itb's. but these cbr954rr throttles will give good velocity (will add) velocity stacks too)
post Feb 3, 2012 - 2:00 PM
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dakotahwyatt

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I bet that will sound real good when its done
post Feb 4, 2012 - 12:06 AM
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Smaay

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please get a better camera


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2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Feb 4, 2012 - 12:49 AM
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Syaoran



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QUOTE (Smaay @ Feb 4, 2012 - 1:06 AM) *
please get a better camera


Low budget build... has to be documented with a low budget camera too!


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1993 Celica GT Coupe - sold
1994 Celica GT Liftback
post Feb 4, 2012 - 1:13 AM
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kurt95gt



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Hell my phone takes better pics than that


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94 st hatch my daily driver
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82235
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post Feb 4, 2012 - 4:36 AM
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smkr3w



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Lookin good. Cant wait for a vid/sound clip once its running biggrin.gif


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post Feb 4, 2012 - 5:42 AM
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morag

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It's actualy a phone camera smile.gif.And the thing is mounted. I encountered alot of problems especialy throttle cable...but ill make it today and make a video wink.gif
post Feb 4, 2012 - 6:14 AM
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mandrek



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curious to see how well this will work, and how much (if any) HP this will give the lil 7A.. i know that you are doing this on a low budget, but if you had a way of tuning the car (like a greddy ultimate e-manage)b4 and after to maximize the effects of any gains the ITB's would give.. either way.. good luck. smile.gif


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post Feb 4, 2012 - 6:26 AM
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mandrek



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oh, and i must say, i LOVE the vacume tank.


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post Feb 4, 2012 - 1:27 PM
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morag

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Guys here's the case. smile.gif. I suspect something is wrong with the mixture. car runs i dunno maybe lean or rich. It come a big smoke off the exhaust and the car is shaking at idle. In the higher rpm it's good. Nearly killed myself at the garage biggrin.gif. dunno any suggestions?
post Feb 4, 2012 - 2:33 PM
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QUOTE (morag @ Feb 4, 2012 - 1:27 PM) *
Guys here's the case. smile.gif. I suspect something is wrong with the mixture. car runs i dunno maybe lean or rich. It come a big smoke off the exhaust and the car is shaking at idle. In the higher rpm it's good. Nearly killed myself at the garage biggrin.gif. dunno any suggestions?

Open the garage door.. laugh.gif

I don't know too much about ITBs or too mechanically inclined lol, but seeing as they're better in high RPMs and in engines the usually rev high like in motorcycles, do you think the air isn't flowing all that well in the low RPMs? or throwing off the MAF?


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post Feb 4, 2012 - 6:56 PM
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your injectors are WAY to big and you have no way of tuning the air/fuel mix AND I doubt the MAP senor is getting steady vacuum. Where is the MAP sensor reading from? IAT is reading from where?


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post Feb 5, 2012 - 4:11 AM
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morag

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the map sensor reading is from a separate vacuum hose coming from every single ITB and going into the map sensor and fuel pressure regulator.it's way too rich. i think ecu played with the ignition aswell. any suggestions. i need to get an piggyback or standalone but any other conclusion?
post Feb 5, 2012 - 4:33 AM
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morag

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and guys what that vacuum line for coming from the valve cover next to the PCV valve and going to the intake?
post Feb 5, 2012 - 10:57 AM
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QUOTE (morag @ Feb 5, 2012 - 3:33 AM) *
and guys what that vacuum line for coming from the valve cover next to the PCV valve and going to the intake?

those are breather tubes, they can go into a catch can with filters.

What are you tuning with? Nothing right now, you'll probably want a stand-alone.
Where is your MAP sensor reading vacuum from? You should have it on a small bottle so it has a steadier source, each intake pulse is probably screwing with the reading. How bad does vacuum bounce around at it? How much does it's voltage fluctuate
How much vacuum are you pulling in your 'bottle'?
Is it steady vacuum?

You should really have two bottles. One small one for the MAP sensor (assuming it has steady vacuum) and another for accessories with a check valve to hold vac at higher throttle so the brake booster etc have steady vacuum source.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Feb 5, 2012 - 10:59 AM


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post Feb 5, 2012 - 3:51 PM
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morag

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the map sensor is on a separate vacuum coming from ITB's stock vacuum lines. I put the stock 7afe injector and it runs better.I will see the map sensor reading and map readings. BUt ill defenetly need a remap.
post Feb 5, 2012 - 10:50 PM
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You will probably only need injectors slightly larger than stock if at all since the limiting factor in head airflow on a 7A is the head, cams, and valves themselves. the intake system is not an impediment much. Stock cams stop making power at about 5800-6000RPM anyways and the bottom end will only take 6500 on a semi regular basis...maybe.

If the MAP sensor is not getting a steady vacuum signal then the fueling from the ECM is going to be all funky. Until you get cams, do some porting, get a longer runner exhaust manifold, tune it, and build the bottom end you'll probably not make much over stock power or possibly even less. The 7A is built for lower end torque and in stock form stops making power at 5500RPM. With some intake and exhaust/manifold you can get to around 5800-6000 before it wheezes out and won't go anymore. Once you start opening up the head though you'll realize than a G head would flow much better and a 4A-GE series engine (like a 20valve) is much more rev happy and suited to ITB, and is what you should have gotten to begin with. Can you make a 7A rev, yes. But you'll have to build it a little.


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post Feb 6, 2012 - 6:31 AM
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morag

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That's what intend to do! Something like Billzilla project. we'll see i just need to work a bit more to get the money.I'm planing some good things on it.
post Sep 6, 2012 - 6:50 PM
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celica74

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a $50 vacuum manifold would probly work best. Interested the progression on this. If the IAT sensor is unpluged it will lean the hell out of the motor. Green top injectors are way too big even for this project. if ti was me doing this. Id run a manifold(sheet metal box) just like the 4a 20v. Still get the same effect with the stacks, just easier to work with in terms of sensors and what not. Considering doing it on my 7afze project.
post Sep 7, 2012 - 8:26 AM
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One common misconception Ive read here is that itbs will reduce throttle response and low end. The sole purpose for itbs is to improve part throttle response.
post Sep 7, 2012 - 9:29 AM
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Special_Edy



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Oh and set every throttlebody the same. The simple way involves placing a vacuum gauge on each seperate intake runner nipple. Adjust the throttle plates till the vacuum reading is even across all 4 cylinders.

The proper way to adjust them is to build this tool I cant remember the name of. Take 2 jars and fill them halfway with semi transparent oil of any type. Use a piece of hose and run it through the lid of both jars so that the hose is submerged in the liquid. Make sure the hose is sealed airtight with the jar. Next take 2 sections of hose and run 1 hose into each jar, this time the end of the hose should be in the air not submerged. Now, supposing your jars are airtight like they should be, you can hook the two hoses to two seperate ITB and balance out the pressure. Whichever intake runner is pulling more vacuum will pull the oil out of the other jar into its jar

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Sep 7, 2012 - 9:30 AM
post Sep 8, 2012 - 6:40 PM
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QUOTE (Special_Edy @ Sep 7, 2012 - 9:29 AM) *
Oh and set every throttlebody the same. The simple way involves placing a vacuum gauge on each seperate intake runner nipple. Adjust the throttle plates till the vacuum reading is even across all 4 cylinders.

The proper way to adjust them is to build this tool I cant remember the name of. Take 2 jars and fill them halfway with semi transparent oil of any type. Use a piece of hose and run it through the lid of both jars so that the hose is submerged in the liquid. Make sure the hose is sealed airtight with the jar. Next take 2 sections of hose and run 1 hose into each jar, this time the end of the hose should be in the air not submerged. Now, supposing your jars are airtight like they should be, you can hook the two hoses to two seperate ITB and balance out the pressure. Whichever intake runner is pulling more vacuum will pull the oil out of the other jar into its jar

Manometer and you want to use inches of water, its much more sensitive. I just used 4 cheap vacuum gauges to balance carbs on a cycle, worked fine.


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post Sep 9, 2012 - 10:55 AM
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QUOTE (Bitter @ Sep 8, 2012 - 6:40 PM) *
QUOTE (Special_Edy @ Sep 7, 2012 - 9:29 AM) *
Oh and set every throttlebody the same. The simple way involves placing a vacuum gauge on each seperate intake runner nipple. Adjust the throttle plates till the vacuum reading is even across all 4 cylinders.

The proper way to adjust them is to build this tool I cant remember the name of. Take 2 jars and fill them halfway with semi transparent oil of any type. Use a piece of hose and run it through the lid of both jars so that the hose is submerged in the liquid. Make sure the hose is sealed airtight with the jar. Next take 2 sections of hose and run 1 hose into each jar, this time the end of the hose should be in the air not submerged. Now, supposing your jars are airtight like they should be, you can hook the two hoses to two seperate ITB and balance out the pressure. Whichever intake runner is pulling more vacuum will pull the oil out of the other jar into its jar

Manometer and you want to use inches of water, its much more sensitive. I just used 4 cheap vacuum gauges to balance carbs on a cycle, worked fine.

Yup, thats where I learned it, the dreaded 4 carburetors on my SECA 750. The manometer is a must though for precision

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