CRAP!!!! 95ST Charcoal return line broke off!!, What should i do? Options

[mandrek]

Yup, just as i was doing final prep to my bay (final wipe w/ mineral spirits, so nothing rough) before throwing down my first primer coat.. i tapped the charcoal canister's return line (wiping the fire wall down) and noticed it move... ALLOT!!! i gave it a little tug to try and ease my suspicions, but the damn thing was broken loose a bit farther back.. Damn it.. not what i needed..

So here is the question..
The car is a 95 7AFE OBDI car.
It will see boost in the future (about a year, less if i can afford the parts sooner, and the down time. )
The car will most likely NEVER see a an inspection ever again, (registered in western MD, and may get registered in AL (no emissions))

also, i am fairly sure that to replace this hard line i would have to drop the tank (i think... plz correct me if i'm wrong here.) and at this point i do not want to get into de-rusting the rear end.. im missing work right now, and trying to get this car back on the road ASAP..

so with all of that.. the question is.. do i even NEED to have this system on the car? i know that the OBDII cars will throw a CEL, and that there are elevated chances for detonation.... but what about on my OBDI 7AFE? can i just remove this crap clutter from my bay, and the now broken system and not have any negative side effects (other than the slight increase in emissions) as in no CEL, or other crap to deal with? and just plate up the EGR port on the mani and the head?

[bdog_v]

Don't quote me on this but I just replaced the hard fuel lines with rubber ones. to make your job easier go to Oreillys buy the smallest tube cutter they have it is red in color and only costs around 7 dollars so you can cut the bad section out of the metal line. Next slip the appropriate size rubber line over the metal tube and clamp it down. That should get you rolling quick and you can replace it with metal line later on if needed. Good luck......

[mandrek]

Don't quote me on this but I just replaced the hard fuel lines with rubber ones. to make your job easier go to Oreillys buy the smallest tube cutter they have it is red in color and only costs around 7 dollars so you can cut the bad section out of the metal line. Next slip the appropriate size rubber line over the metal tube and clamp it down. That should get you rolling quick and you can replace it with metal line later on if needed. Good luck......

good thought.. i just have a feeling that the lne may be so degraded that a fix like that may not be feasible.. hmm i will go look at it right now.. and see.. the odd thing was the line was not so much as rusted/corroded in a certain spot, as it was like the line was made of rust.. all the way through.. strange.. ill take a pic..

[mandrek]

well i went and took a look at it and it seems that the fix Bdog V suggested may work as a bandaide, there are other spots that i know would need to be addressed along the duct, including the fuel supply and return line. i am still a bit dubious of doing a "quick fix" on this situation, and honestly much better like the idea of a full removal of the whole EGR system if it is a viable option..

[RobbMeeX]

What would that gain? EGR or EVAP?

[Smaay]

EGR will gain 1-2 HP. it prevents the exhaust from going back in the intake. the EVAP you should keep because it keeps the vapors and pressures in your gas tank regulated

[mandrek]

EGR will gain 1-2 HP. it prevents the exhaust from going back in the intake. the EVAP you should keep because it keeps the vapors and pressures in your gas tank regulated

hmm thank you smaay.. ok , soo it looks like i will just band-aide it for now..

hmm can you shed some light on the EGR stuff though? would it still cause a CEL on my OBDI 7a? or can i remove that system with out any side effects?
thank you.


an i thought that the two systems were intermingled.. my bad

[Bitter]

EGR will gain 1-2 HP. it prevents the exhaust from going back in the intake. the EVAP you should keep because it keeps the vapors and pressures in your gas tank regulated

Eh, EGR is closed at anything over like 30-40% throttle so it'll never make a lick of difference when you'd notice it.

[RobbMeeX]

EGR will gain 1-2 HP. it prevents the exhaust from going back in the intake. the EVAP you should keep because it keeps the vapors and pressures in your gas tank regulated

Eh, EGR is closed at anything over like 30-40% throttle so it'll never make a lick of difference when you'd notice it.

Yup, thats what I was getting at...
Not necessarily because it "regulates" vapors, but it draws them into your motor and burns them. (ya know, increasing EmpeeGees)
And like said, EGR is closed unless its bad.(at throttle positions that matter. Open when cruising on the interstate,etc.)

This post has been edited by RobbMeeX: Mar 1, 2012 - 3:29 PM

[mandrek]

update!!!!

so im in the process of dropping my motor in and last thing i had to do was crawl under the car and patch this line...

well guess what?!?!?!?

it was never broken!!! it was apparently the drain line that went under the car, and the end of it was severely corroded.. just a hard line going from the bottom of the can to under the car to drain.. EFFING RETARDED now to re install all the guards and crap and get back to the install..