ENDLINK INFORMATIVE - QUICK HOW-TO ENDLINKS, ALSO MEVOTECH/MOOG ENDLINKS INSTALLED Options

[trdproven]

>>LET'S GO OVER REAL QUICK OUR REPLACEMENT OPTIONS OUT THERE:
TOYOTA OEM FRONT ENDLINKS Item #4: $61.50
TOYOTA OEM REAR ENDLINKS Item #4: $45.75








SWAY BAR LINK INSPECTION:
Condition.............Code........Procedure
Attaching hardware incorrect .............. A .......... Require replacement of incorrect part, if available; otherwise, replace link.
Attaching hardware loose .................. A ... Require repair or replacement of loose part, if available; otherwise, replace link.
Attaching hardware missing ................ C .. Require replacement of missing part, if available; otherwise, replace link.
Attaching hardware threads damaged ........ A ... Require repair or replacement of part with damaged threads, if available; otherwise, replace link.
Attaching hardware threads stripped (threads missing) ...... A ..... Require replacement of part with stripped threads, if available; otherwise, replace link.
Ball and socket has looseness (perceptible vertical movement) ..... 1 ........ (1) Suggest replacement.
Ball and socket has looseness that is excessive .............. B ..... (1)(2) Require replacement.
Bent .................... B ............ Require replacement.
Broken .................. A ............ Require replacement.
Corroded, affecting structural integrity ... A ............ Require replacement.
Grease boot cracked ..... 2 ........ (3) Suggest replacement.
Grease boot missing ..... 2 ........ (4) Suggest replacement.
Grease boot torn ........ 2 ........ (5) Suggest replacement.
Missing ................. C ............ Require replacement.
Nut on stud loose ....... A ............. (6) Require repair.
Stud bent ............... B ........ (7) Require replacement.
Stud broken ............. A ........ (7) Require replacement.
Threads damaged ......... A .. Require repair or replacement.
Threads stripped (threads missing) ............... A ........ (7) Require replacement.
(1) - If manufacturer’s procedures for inspection exist, use
those procedures; otherwise, use an approved inspection
method such as the dry park check.
CAUTION: DO NOT use pliers or pry bar to check ball and
socket movement. Use only moderate hand pressure.
(2) - Excessive looseness is defined as being significant
enough to affect vehicle handling or structural
integrity.
(3) - Cracked grease boot will allow contaminants to enter
the joint and will accelerate wear.
(4) - Lack of grease boot will allow contaminants to enter
the joint and will accelerate wear.
(5) - Torn grease boot will allow contaminants to enter the
joint and will accelerate wear.
(6) - Check for bent stud or damaged taper hole.
(7) - Check for damaged taper hole.


TOOLS NEEDED TO REMOVE AND REPLACE ENDLINKS:


Real Quick On Removing and Installing Endlinks:
1. Jack up the car in the correct jacking points, place jack stands in correct jack stand areas. Refer to manual or on this forum. I guess to be
safe you can block the wheels depending if you are doing front or back.
2. Take off wheel.
3. Identify the endlink to be replaced.
4. Use 14mm wrench to remove nut, must be used with allen wrench at the same time so that nut does not move with the stud. Repeat for the other nut. (If yours is stuck use vise grips on the other side of the sway bar so you can lock it in place. Refer here: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=41243. You can also use a disc grinder but be careful.
5. Once both nuts are removed you can take off the endlink. Sometimes you have to use like scissor jacks to play with the knuckle and lift it up and down if the endlink is stuck - same thing goes for removal and installation.
NOTES: However some aftermarket endlinks do not have the part where the allen wrench goes in to hold the stud from moving. I suggest depends on the endlink you can slip a wrench on the other end's inner nut or you can install the outer nut onto the endlink first meaning not on the car. Note: Some aftermarket endlinks use bigger nuts than OEM like 15mm or so. Some aftermarket links like MEVOTECH or MOOG, if you put on the nut almost halfway but then it gets tight after that and it makes the stud spin, so before installing onto the car, use two wrenches and install the nuts onto the links first (not on the car) and then remove, then install onto the car - this will make the threads ready for the nut to go on easier. If your endlinks still have the center part where an allen wrench can fit into then no worries, removal and install is simple. In simple terms you gotta get out the endlink and put on the endlink, depending how they come off and on.
GREASABLE ENDLINKS (Sometimes Only offered for certain cars, by certain brands, or if there is a common problem with a specific car model):
In my case I also used a grease gun on the fittings cus mine came with them. For the MOOGs it was not necessary to add more grease, they looked pretty full but the MEVOTECH's looked less so i used the grease gun on these links. Technically you can tell when to stop pumping grease when it begins to slightly ooze out of the boot. It might ooze out more once you lower the car. In most cases, if your car is on the ground, and if you can fit under there, this is the right time to put grease cus its already settled into its final suspension load. Its pretty straight forward, but I don't want to get too detailed unless you guys want me to elaborate.

6. Pretty simple - installation is reverse. Pls see below torque spec.



Introduction and Options:
What are Endlinks?
In general, end links are also known as sway bar links. These are the parts that connect your sway bar to the lower control arm, which induces twist into the sway bar as it moves up and down, thereby reducing body roll. End links are bolted to a round opening at either end of the sway bar, and then into round openings in the lower control arm, knuckle, and/or Strut. The sway bar is also connected to the car’s frame by way of sway bar mounting or frame bushing. Worn out end link bushing can allow your car’s body to roll while cornering.


Now, I just wanted to give you guys somewhat of an informed update on me upgrading to the MEVOTECH front sway bar endlinks and MOOG rear sway bar
endlinks. My links are bad so I am just trying to get something better than OEM. I'm not trying to loose much of the OEM drivability. I'm sure
higher end products change the feel of the car especially if you combine them with sway bar bushings and sway bars and make it more for sporty
driving or track.

My Other Options:#1. I could have gotten the GT4 Racing PolyUrethane endlinks that come with Polybushings (non-adjustable) that i'm sure would be good for track and stiff
feel but was not sure how this would affect ride quality so opted for upgraded OEM replacement links that are beefier but still use the ball joint design.
There is also lots of talk about how the possibility over time the poly bushings material in general tend to squeak and I did not want to deal with that
idea, I could be wrong or whatsoever, and I don't know anyone that has GT4 Racing ones that could vouch for it specifically for our cars. The product is
semi-brand new if not brand new since no one has it yet. http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php

#2. There are other options that azian_advanced found for the rears only which are adjustable hex poly bushing endlinks which may be an option for you.
There are also the TwosRUs adjustable endlinks for front and rear and comes in red/stainless finishes and full stainless finish which costs alot more. You can read on both here on http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...&hl=twosrus

Actual Install and Results:
Good thing about both MEVOTECH and MOOG besides they are obviously beefier are that they are both greasable and come with Zerk Fittings (this I hope
makes the links last much longer). But with the beefiness and zirk fittings, makes it to me more of an upgrade from regular endlinks that have neither especially the going rate for OEM "toothpick" endlinks that cost about 50-70 bucks eachx4. For the MOOG brand, needs no introduction, they are respected in the suspension/chassis arena. In fact, I went ahead and bought me MOOG inner and outer tie rods to go along with it. Thinking of the lower ball joints to be MOOG too.

To get started...Here are pics of the front stock endlinks still installed. Needs no explanation, looks weak, thin, and breaks fast.


Here are pics of the comparison side by side for the front. As you can see the MEVOTECH front links are much beefier. As Spider once mentioned they
are 13mm compared to the stock 8mm on the rod size. Comes with a nice blue boot cover but thats just for show. I read that the black boot covers are
the newer designed ones (supposed to be better) which i've seen as well but dunno the difference of how some say its better. FYI, MEVOTECH for some reason offers their beefier models for both front and rear for our model. For other cars, MEVOTECH sometimes provide the stock skinny ones for example for the 7gc. I guess we are lucky. The reason why i decided on getting MEVOTECH for the fronts and not MOOG all around is because MOOG front links seem to be like stockish looking and its size - I did not know for sure but i've seen the fronts for other cars and they size up the same as stocks.


Here are pics of the MEVOTECH Front endlinks installed. Nice!


Here are the pics of the rear stock endlinks still installed. Again, scrawny.


Here are the side by side pic comparison for the rear. As you can see the MOOGs are definitely beefier. Comes with a nice MOOG black boot cover with
their logo. Also has the greasable zerk fittings. I did not opt to match MEVOTECHs in the rear only because I know MOOG is top-notch replacements.
Again MOOG rear endlinks are much better in design than their front version, thus the mix and match with MEVOTECH's fronts. MOOG fronts just look
like stock (which I'm sure is just equal or a bit better than OEM). MOOG I believe may offer this same design for the fronts and rears but not for every
car, in our Celica's case, just the rears are the nicer ones.


Here are pics of the rear MOOG endlinks installed. Sorry crappy phone night pics. But Definitely looks beefier and nicer.



Review and feedback of the ride upgrade.
Car feels much stiffer, very noticeable, there were turns I used to take with my worn out ones and I would just feel the car tilt, now its more stable with
these ones. Turn-in is great, im hugging turns a lot better now. Definitely a good feeling. I thought maybe there wouldn't be a difference but there is. I will
probably loose that feeling over time when i get used to it, but as of now its a night and day difference.

In conclusion, there are many decent OE replacements out there, Autoextra, MEVOTECH, DEEZA, Beck and Arnley, AC Delco, Raybestos (Service and
Professional Grades), NAPA, whitelines (AUS), MOOG, etc. - some better than others. MOOG and RAYBESTOS (Pro Grade) are good choices for ball joint
types. I'm not trying to promote the products I installed, just wanted to tell you my experience on this setup. Again there are many brands out there,
mix and match parts, etc. for you to choose from. Another good tip is that there are some cars that share the same endlinks either front/rear
interchangeable so that means if other cars have a performance version thats an option for you too. A good example was azian_advanced's Miata rear
endlink find. Also with adjustable endlinks since they are hex types, you can flip the bolt/stud to face in same or opposite directions and adjust height
length as well giving you more options < as so i think i understand it that way. For the most part what endlinks are its generally the same its really just a
matter of length and the direction of the studs for it to fit.

So good luck on your endlink jobs and be safe when doing it. Again constructive feedback is welcome so that we can make it better if anything...

ENDLINK WRITE-UP BY:


This post has been edited by trdproven: May 29, 2012 - 11:06 PM

[SwissFerdi]

Great guide.

[azian_advanced]

just to add, if worst comes to worst and you still can't easily remove the endlink using the allen key or vice grip methods, just use a disc grinder and cut them off at the studs. it's so much faster especially if the links are shot and going to the trash anyway..

sticky!

[benzo]

how much did they run you?>


nice guide tho!

[jordisonjr]

Sticky for sure.
There's been a ton of talk on end links around here and. It a whole lot of solid conclusions either than azian_advanced's thread but this definitely covers it all

[Spider77]

Well, Im glad your enjoying your new endlinks. Ive been running mine for a bit now and I can still notice the difference....turns are now fun again (on an empty road of course), although my wife would beg to differ. Another great write up!

[trdproven]

just to add, if worst comes to worst and you still can't easily remove the endlink using the allen key or vice grip methods, just use a disc grinder and cut them off at the studs. it's so much faster especially if the links are shot and going to the trash anyway..

sticky!

I've done the disc grinder method as well, not for the careless weekend mechanic but definitely works as well.

[trdproven]

Great guide.

thanks.

just to add, if worst comes to worst and you still can't easily remove the endlink using the allen key or vice grip methods, just use a disc grinder and cut them off at the studs. it's so much faster especially if the links are shot and going to the trash anyway..

sticky!

updated! thanks for your input as always.

how much did they run you?>


nice guide tho!

Updated with all products/prices from ROCKAUTO!

Sticky for sure.
There's been a ton of talk on end links around here and. It a whole lot of solid conclusions either than azian_advanced's thread but this definitely covers it all

Thanks, couldn't have done it without reading what everyone else had to say about theirs.

Well, Im glad your enjoying your new endlinks. Ive been running mine for a bit now and I can still notice the difference....turns are now fun again (on an empty road of course), although my wife would beg to differ. Another great write up!

Thanks. your pics gave me a good idea on how the MEVOTECH's looked like, they are pretty beefy, and thanks for your input.

[BonzaiCelica]

great thanks!! liking what I'm seeing.

noticed that both on the MOOG and MEVOTECH you can install grease into the boot by removing that little pin. Why is that? stock doesn't have that option, whats the advantage???

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 2, 2015 - 4:12 PM

[trdproven]

Sorry I'm lost removing what little pin? are you talking about the grease fitting? you have to leave the fitting on, you use it with a grease gun and it hooks onto the fitting. OEM does not have these fittings. These fitting allow not only for the joint to be kept always greased, but it can also push out old grease and keep it fresh, making the links last longer. The OEM ones wear out quicker because it dries up, or the insides get contaminated.

This post has been edited by trdproven: May 21, 2012 - 3:24 AM

[marinos]

What is your opinion about the gt4 racing has anyone used them?
I see there is polyurethane bush that holds it together so is it possible to sqeek?
Do they need to grease them very frequently? Because it looks that it wont keep the
grease as the rest of them that are sealed with rubber.
Great thread, a very nice write up! Congratulations!

[trdproven]

im not sure...but poly material has been known to squeak thats why they use grease on them. Poly material is pretty slippery rubbery which i can see why they COULD POSSIBLY squeak. For sway bar bushings I've seen people use teflon tape aroundd the sway bar to keep it from squeaking. No one i think on this forum has the gt4 endlinks yet. They are similar in design to the the Whiteline brand. The rear design is shaped like that so that it allows the middle to pivot for movement.

This post has been edited by trdproven: May 26, 2012 - 8:45 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

Sorry I'm lost removing what little pin? are you talking about the grease fitting? you have to leave the fitting on, you use it with a grease gun and it hooks onto the fitting. OEM does not have these fittings. These fitting allow not only for the joint to be kept always greased, but it can also push out old grease and keep it fresh, making the links last longer. The OEM ones wear out quicker because it dries up, or the insides get contaminated.

really the grease can get old on the insides of the end links how so??

haha might want to edit the photo size please. They are way too large

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: May 21, 2012 - 8:23 PM

[trdproven]

Well, old in terms of not newer than the new grease being put in. Another thing is that the boots allow the old grease to ooze out so there is some type of opening. Moog oozes out from the ends of the boot while MEVOTECH oozes out from these small slits on the boot. so its not exactly a fully enclosed boot, the MOOG dont have a ring locking it, the MEVOTECH is locked with a ring but has small slits on the boot for the grease to come out. also grease tends to not say disappear but get less or old meaning thats why OEM or generic replacements get to that point where it just messes up, these zirk grease fittings promote longer lasting links with always replenished grease every 6 months to a year you can refill.

May I add the bigger ball joint design allows for more grease to be put in. thus i guess the rod thats in between is proportional to match the bigger ball joints.

On my 7th gen, I used front BC Racing Endlinks that came with the coilovers, not greasable but beefier than OEM. The rears on it were just beefier aftermarket versions, IDK the brand.

This post has been edited by trdproven: May 21, 2012 - 8:36 PM

[Stambo]

great guide, i guess i'm spoiled though by being able to just torch the endlinks off

[BonzaiCelica]

hey the guys with st sway bars. I always have a hard time installing the end links. I see in your picture trdproven that the sway bar is almost at a 90 degree angle, basically vertical to the end link. How did you get it to install like so??! usually I jack up the shock from the bottom of the ball joint but I can never get it that close.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 27, 2012 - 2:15 AM

[trdproven]

i just jack it up from the bottom. The trick with sway bars for any car, is to find out which side should go on first. for example put on the endlink on the bottom side first, start jacking it up and see if the top part of the endlink begins to align. and vise versa try putting it into the top first and see when jacking it up it aligns with the bottom hole. Always worked for me. I remember my 7th gen front links go on the top first, my 6th gen goes on bottom first.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 27, 2012 - 2:30 AM

[Syaoran]

Great write-up and it's nice to see a first-hand input on the MOOG/Mevotech links. Would like to hear about them in the long term.

[BonzaiCelica]

makes sense trdproven. I'll have to remove both sides first. and jack up both control arms with jacks. that way I can swing the sway bar to make it near vertical with the end links like you have done :



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 18, 2013 - 9:36 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

well I ordered mine from rock auto for $45 shipped to California. You can definitely tell how much thicker and durable they feel compared to oem links. Have yet to install them. I didn't get the grease fitting like you :






This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 18, 2013 - 9:38 PM

[trdproven]

wow, i was wondering on the internet why there were two versions in terms of appearance of the blue covers, i guess the difference is the grease fittings. its weird though the rears look just like yours but have the grease fittings. BTW, you ordered it on ROCKAUTO, i'm not sure how did you get the non grease fitting type cus thats where i got mine, I'm pretty sure from my research there was only 1 part number but there were two boot cover looks. The only explanation for that, is that it is the newer version, and the grease fitting was eliminated in this design.

Looks good though, i think the rears make the most difference though.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jul 4, 2012 - 10:25 PM

[Syaoran]

well I ordered mine from rock auto for $45 shipped to California. You can definitely tell how much thicker and durable they feel compared to oem links. Have yet to install them. I didn't get the grease fitting like you :

Wow those even look like Poly boots on there O_o

[trdproven]

MEVOTECH seem to be following MOOG designs more and more, thats how my MOOG rears look like but with zirk fittings. yea but those blue covers are just thin rubber to hold in the grease. Im a little curious though the way the covers are designed in that pic is used more often in endlinks that have grease zirk fittings so that it could ooze out the ends. if there are no fittings it should be enclosed and locked tight with a ring, which its not. hmm, just wondering. i guess technically you can always buy a grease fitting and tap it in.

[BonzaiCelica]

yea that's what I was going to mention. it should have a snap ring on it so that no grease can come out. the grease is white colored. Will some come out when install the end links?? Should I call mevotech and ask them. I wish I could afford the rears, but I only bought the fronts because my oem left link is broken.

[trdproven]

the problem with those covers is that i assume they are open and you could peel it and see the grease inside. the design works well with a grease fitting so that it replenishes. but it is weird that it does not have the fitting. I would ask Mevotech why the design is like that and if it was supposed to have a grease fitting.

[trdproven]

late post, but it sounds like you could always peel the cover back and inject some new grease when you want to. and no the grease wont come out, it will ooze at most but thats ok, just make sure theres always a lot of grease.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Aug 26, 2012 - 10:28 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

Installed suspension energy sway bar bushings. Also some mevotech endlinks (13mm vs stock 8mm). The car is rock solid

Rear endlinks

Installed!!

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Nov 6, 2012 - 12:55 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

update: So i fitted the mevotech rear end links, but the fitment it quite odd is it safe?? I feel like bending the tab/mounting point on the strut so the end link can be more parallel to the shock or mounting a new tab on the shock itself, i believe i heard a few popping noises. I tightend all the end links hard before I set the car on the ground. here the pix explain it:





This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 18, 2013 - 10:06 PM

[Spider77]

I didnt really notice anything on mine....but ill double check...

[BonzaiCelica]

I didnt really notice anything on mine....but ill double check...

you have oem. i just talked with a rep at mevotech and he said these are not meant for aftermarket sway bar only oem, but that is false look to the bottom pictures provided by maskedman ... i'll have to remount the tabs on the kyb shock... I removed them for the time being so I don't damage them. hopefully i haven't yet as I've only had them on for 35 miles.



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 18, 2013 - 10:03 PM

[Spider77]

I'll have to keep that in mind...Im sure somewhere there is an OEM endlink that would fit....problem is finding one I guess.

[BonzaiCelica]

I'll have to keep that in mind...Im sure somewhere there is an OEM endlink that would fit....problem is finding one I guess.

ya there is the skinny type ones. but thats not what I want. i'll see what i can pull over the next few days in regards to remounting the tab.

[trdproven]

bonzai do you have an oem strut to compare to. its a bit odd, its either the aftermarket sway bar is a bit wider or something with the positioning of the strut tab like you said. is the position of the sway bar even on both sides, does one side go on nicely than the other? or is the positioning of the tab on the other side look like a better fit? Im just curious because between my OEM and thicker ones it didn't change position at all, like youve seen in my pics nothing looked different from my stocks. just wondering yours is angled a bit too hard. I guess it may help as well to use a thinner inner nuts to help with gaining some space, last I remember they could come out because as you tighten the outer, the inner moves, just my assumption.

but i'd check on those first things i mentioned if you have time or wanna doublecheck it.

[Syaoran]

Perhaps might be a better idea to get a set of miata adjustable rear endlinks?

[BonzaiCelica]

From: rrego@mevotech.com
To: bonzaicelica@hotmail.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 16:22:51 -0500
Subject: RE: suspension bushings

Justin, first thing.

-If you are running a GT4 suspension than that is not what hey are designed for.
-Aftermarket swaybar is another thing they are not designed for.

What it does look like is the sway bar might be different spec than oe. Do both sides look like this or one side. If only one side maybe your swaybar is not centered.

my reply :


this is not a gt4. its a regular celica. the other side looks the same!! i ordered the front mevotech end links and they fit just fine on the front aftermarket sway bar. i guess i'll have to move the tab/mounting point on the shock of the suspension so these will fit.. naw the sway bar is centered. its to finger space gaping between sway bar and shock.

[trdproven]

Perhaps might be a better idea to get a set of miata adjustable rear endlinks?

I dont think it would change the bad angle though, i think the first thing to check is what is making it not fit.

From: rrego@mevotech.com
To: bonzaicelica@hotmail.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 16:22:51 -0500
Subject: RE: suspension bushings

Justin, first thing.

-If you are running a GT4 suspension than that is not what hey are designed for.
-Aftermarket swaybar is another thing they are not designed for.

What it does look like is the sway bar might be different spec than oe. Do both sides look like this or one side. If only one side maybe your swaybar is not centered.

my reply :


this is not a gt4. its a regular celica. the other side looks the same!! i ordered the front mevotech end links and they fit just fine on the front aftermarket sway bar. i guess i'll have to move the tab/mounting point on the shock of the suspension so these will fit.. naw the sway bar is centered. its to finger space gaping between sway bar and shock.

have you tried putting back your stock sway bar, i know its some work but its still an option if you want to entirely eliminate that as a problem. Any prior changes? did your stock endlinks fit nicely prior to the mevotechs?

[BonzaiCelica]

i'll get a pic of the stock end links on.

ha who has stock sway bars?! i threw those away as soon as I got these on. besides I've been on st sway bars for the past 3 years. no way am I going back to stock sway bar with mevotech end links.

only way would be for a member to compare stock rear and st rear sway bars....

get me a picture of your end links with stock bar like the angle I took my pictures.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jan 8, 2013 - 12:53 AM

[trdproven]

i can try when i get the chance, for the most part, they were pretty much vertical and fit like stocks links.

[BonzaiCelica]

THIS IS WITH THE CAR ON THE GROUND ON ALL 4 TIRES!!!

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 18, 2013 - 10:28 PM

[MaskedMan]

Here is a comparison of the stock rear sway bar to the Suspension Techniques rear sway bar. End to end they are the same width.

[BonzaiCelica]

what gives. see they are exactly the same.

the member spider77 even has listed on his page that his shocks are kyb gr2 like mine. Even in the picture listed above you can see than they are kyb. cmon its not like he would paint original shocks silver exactly like the way the kyb look. spider77 whre you at. we need pics!!!

[Spider77]

I'll get you pics up tomorrow. With some measurements.

[Rusty]

they may look the same length, but are the holes in the same place?

[Spider77]

Alright, so I went out and took some measurements as promised. And let me say I am surprised. I'll post the images then my opinion after.........pics.

This is one of the better shot prior to removal.

Another pre removal shot.

This is the measurement of the endlink. I got as close to mid stud on both ends as possible (using the stud and the zerk fitting).

Measurement (again, aprox) of the mounting tab to the mounting hole on the stock sway bar.

And installed before I put on nuts.

Ok, so as you may notice there is indeed some bit of difference. I could of sworn when I initially installed these they lined up fine. Anyhow. The measurement of the stud to stud (using mid stud to mid zerk) is around 104 mm (rounding up of course) and the mid points of the mounting tab and mounting hole on the stock sway bar is 108 mm. That makes for a difference of 4 mm. Now, when I removed all this I checked for damage to the endlink. Visually there was no damage and the bearing seemed to move just fine in the race (meaning there was no rough spots, it moved freely). When I re-installed this I checked it and sure enough, it looked like it had some stress loaded on it. Just in case your wondering it looked the same with the wheels on the ground.
Long story short, like most aftermarket endlinks it is not adjustable, but I have yet to have any failures with it as of yet. Not to say the lack of correct length will adversely affect it (that has yet to be determined) but like all items like this, they are not designed to last forever. I have no intention on swapping out my endlinks now as they have a while to go. But defiantly keep an eye on them. When I do replace them with adjustable ones I'll cut open the boot and clear out all the grease and we can further examine this.
That being said, I have emailed the company with my pics and wait word from them.

My email--------------> "Not too long ago I purchased a set of endlinks MK9545. Overall I was very satisfied, but upon hearing a forum members problems I had to look for myself. The initial problem was with the endlinks not lining up with the mounting tabs of their struts and endlink mounting hole on their sway bar (although aftermarket). So I was asked to go and look since I had a stock set up, and much to my chagrin I had the same issue. I took some measurements (and although they are an approximation due to the tools I had available) I found the enlinks to be 4 mm off of where they should sit. I have attached the images so you can see for yourself what I am referencing. I know the part must be interchangeable with different set ups, and so the tolerances must be slightly askewed to conform. So my question to you is, does MEVOTECH provide an endlink in the same style (opposing studs) with the correct length? If so, what is the P/N so I can see if it works? And if so, would MEVOTECH be willing to provide me with a set so I can inform members on my forum of a set of endlinks that are to closer tolerances to their stock setup."

This post has been edited by Spider77: Jan 14, 2013 - 4:08 PM

[SwissFerdi]

I wouldn't worry about wear on the links, I'd worry about your sway bar not moving correctly.

[Spider77]

For me everything is fine...no problems so far.

[trdproven]

I took pics of my MOOG endlinks (the thick ones like MEVO), and they appear to be pretty straight, I'll post it up if you need it.

[BonzaiCelica]

we want pics post it up!!!

[trdproven]

as you can see or barely see cus these are not pics to enter in a photo contest, the left and right endlinks are pretty much vertically straight.
in your case, I would think if you checked everything already and tried swapping out stuff. I noticed the inner nut is pretty big, not sure if in yours you can switch it out for thinner ones.

looking at spider's pics, ill have to measure my endlink, luckily i have a spare one lying around, maybe that'll determine if its the rear MEVOTECH brand thats the problem.

LEFT SIDE


RIGHT SIDE




This post has been edited by trdproven: Jan 23, 2013 - 8:20 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

i do have a caliper at my dads place but he's real finicky with me borrowing his tools, which i once had possesion of when i lived with my parents. i miss having a garage full of tools. any how the pic explains it all, spider77 this will need your help. If the mevotech is too large by measurment standards we will deem it cursed and for never to buy it from the company again. hehe jk but honestly they need to redesign it and the company hasn't wrote back to me. Im willing to bend the tab on shock to make moogs fit. I'd prefer them over the miata end links.



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 8, 2015 - 9:18 PM

[trdproven]

i dont have the stock links anymore just a spare moog. but the moog in the area you wanted me to measure is roughly 1.5 inches or 38mm or 3.8cm. The vertical length from end to end just for your reference is 140~141mm.

I hope this helps solve your problem.

The reason why I bought MOOG rear endlinks cus they are a well known brand for suspension, and #2 the reason why I didnt get MOOG front endlinks is because they are the stock size thickness.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jan 24, 2013 - 6:50 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

well to put to death the sizing info

as you can see its not that mevotech screwed up when they manufactured it. its just my own problem now. had to find the nearest orielly with this one in stock. also the thing to note is that kyb is the company that supplies shocks to toyota. kyb shock what they use to make oem 94-99 celica shocks. so the whole issue with the tab mount on the shock being off from stock wouldn't make sense at all. i see that you have the megans and they fit just fine. so how much spider is having issues with it fitting perfectly. i also tried using the most inner sway bar whole because its a tighter feel. but still that would give it 2mm more room. anyhow here the second picture i didn't line up. but they are equal in length :



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 18, 2013 - 10:34 PM

[trdproven]

i see, yup thats why i provided the length of my MOOG because it makes sense your studs would be pointing like that in your MEVOTECH cus it had to be longer with the studs facing up or down < just in regards to your pics and mine. but from your pic, since moog is straight in my megans and you said KYB produces the oem shock, doesnt it still look like the MEVOTECHs were longer anyway? for example if I ran your mevotech in my megans, it would have been the same scenario anyway? since you mentioned kyb provides the shocks, in comparison from my observation, they now make their top mounts, cus i have the original and the new toyota mounts when I had em and they looked exactly like my KYB mounts too. btw, my stock endlinks fit exactly the same way.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jan 24, 2013 - 7:10 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

they might be like 5mm longer, but thats really nothing. even spider 77 don't fit nicely. im at a loss

[BonzaiCelica]

alright people problem solved!




This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 18, 2013 - 10:35 PM

[Spider77]

This is what I got back from MevoTech
"Please apologize the delay but we had to wait for the OEM stabilizer bar link. We have measured the center distance in
the OEM stabilizer bar link kit which is 105 mm and compared the center distance with our inventory stabilizer links which
is also 105 mm. In your vehicle you need to have a center distance of 105 mm not as shown in your picture of 109 mm.
The incorrect center distance will lead to early wear and tear on both the OEM and our stabilizer link due to off-set movement
of the joints.
If you have further questions please contact us, thank you."
So, that pretty much tells me nothing I did not know (save for the stock length center distance). Now the only thing that I have on the bottom end that is not stock are the Energy Suspension bushings. Although I did fail to take measurements of the thickness of the bushings, that could possibly play a slight part in why everything is off by a bit, given the thickness of the mounting bracket plus a slight width increase in bushing OD. Now I asked mevotech if they have the same style endlink, but with a 109mm center to center measurement....still awaiting response.
BTW..the reason why that dust cover is hitting the bar is because its not held on by the retaining clip that mevotech uses. So I really see no reason to point that out. Best thing to do is get some measurements off the MOOG link and lets compare.

[BonzaiCelica]

yes dude that is the problem. masked man let me know so. the thickness of each bushing where the ball joint meets is exactly the same. its how they welded the middle bar to each end. the sway bar can move up and down freely without the end links attach so even if the mevotech length is slighter longer than moog by 3 mm it won't have any effect whatsoever. i wrote to them but still didnt get a reply i'm going to write a generic email again. hopefully another rep will help me.

what measurements of moog do you want. as you can see the picture i provided they are exactly the same except of what i pointed up above.

hopefully trdproven can provide better pics. cause honestly the right one is mediocre and the left is junk

or better yet i'll just buy a pair from a store that has them in stock and see how the fitment is then just return them.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 8, 2015 - 9:21 PM

[azian_advanced]

Spider77, do you have pics of the endlinks while the car is on the ground? it seems like the endlinks look the way they do because the car is raised on jack stands and letting the suspension hang.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Jan 25, 2013 - 10:32 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

Visually there was no damage and the bearing seemed to move just fine in the race (meaning there was no rough spots, it moved freely). When I re-installed this I checked it and sure enough, it looked like it had some stress loaded on it. Just in case your wondering it looked the same with the wheels on the ground.

thats not the issue the sway bar moves up and down so you can fiddle with it a bit. its like what i mentioned its the only thing. watch, i'll get them from the store and install them by tuesday or wednesday. i'll let my action speak for itself

[trdproven]

Spider77, do you have pics of the endlinks while the car is on the ground? it seems like the endlinks look the way they do because the car is raised on jack stands and letting the suspension hang.

what i would do is put the mevo on top of the moog, but dont line it up with the rod (who cares about it for now where the rod is just get the top inner nut matched up, the part where the sway bar would stop at). do for example the top side first and keep it straight down and see where the other inner nut on the bottom side aligns between the two, I think something might be off. but dont try to make it go diagonal jsut to make the two nuts match. one side might be more in or out. hard to describe but it may not line up evenly with the MOOG, i think it might be a combination of where the two inner nuts line up and that extra total length. thats what I would do next, all there is to compare really on an endlink is between size measurements (placement of things) and how they would actually mount.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jan 28, 2013 - 5:26 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

MEVOTECH

now as you can see people masked man was right. its the placement of the rod. as you can see by the angle isn't that harsh at all. I will be bending the tab a bit more outward to get it to fit nicely like an oem size/style end link. so each joint is at 90 degree. I just have to return these ($112 from orielly) and buy a set online (once i get a job)

MOOG


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 18, 2013 - 10:44 PM

[trdproven]

yea thats what i was saying about lining up one of the nuts and seeing where the rest of the endlink lines up from the top going down while comparing the other endlink behind it. still weird though your MOOG is still a bit crooked, mines totally straight. since you are using MOOG just like me im beginning to not also count out the strut bracket and sway bar because i think you and spyder both have KYBs and I don't. im going to take better pics tomorrow. my left side pics were crap, but my right side pics you can clearly see they are straight up, this time i'll get the pics in the day, those were taken at dinner.

just a wild idea but if you bend the kyb bracket to the right, im guessing it would line up straighter. maybe KYBs bracket is also too close?

This post has been edited by trdproven: Feb 8, 2013 - 4:03 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

oh yes i will bend bracket once i get a big enough vice grip and a set of my own moog end links in my hand...

from your blurry pics it seems as though the tab is nearly center on the shock housing. so i believe this kyb gr2 are off from the stock toyota shock. i need pics of oem shock.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 8, 2013 - 4:50 AM

[mkernz22]

I'll have to get some pictures next weekend since I have the miata ones with coilovers cause I don't think mine look like that at all

[BonzaiCelica]

as you can see even the original housing is basically the same!! so far as i can tell from trd blurry pic the megans have a better mounting point for thicker end links. As you can see from the megan group buy back in 2009 the pics below show that they use a moog end link. so there is no need guys for you to post your pics unless you have a tein coilovers installed, then a rear pic would be helpful

there are a few ways to remove the sway bar end links. You need to remove them (or at least the top bolt) to change your rear struts (for lowering and such).

another angle

Megan Racing Street Series Coilovers for 94-99 Toyota Celica FWD

$850/set with Discount Code! Free Shipping (lower 48 states)! Brand New with Warranty!



[i]

As you can see they also fit bc coilovers. because they look exactly the same in design except the color and spring rates.


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 12, 2013 - 8:08 PM

[trdproven]

too bad my teins are for my 7th gen.

[trdproven]

oh yes i will bend bracket once i get a big enough vice grip and a set of my own moog end links in my hand...

from your blurry pics it seems as though the tab is nearly center on the shock housing. so i believe this kyb gr2 are off from the stock toyota shock. i need pics of oem shock.

i knew there was something else wrong, you already had the pics of the moog still crooked and you and spyder both had kybs. Since you already have the megan group buy pic, its for sure, no need for my pics like you said.

[richee3]

Here are my RacingBeat Miata end links with stock struts, ignore how filthy everything is.

[trdproven]

i get it already, my pics were blurry, but its not like you cant see anything, you can still tell what you are looking for.

[BonzaiCelica]

thx to diego i got the pic muhaha see fits perfectly on megans



Just proof that the mevotech and moot end links won't fit the TANABE Coilovers either


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 2, 2015 - 5:53 PM

[mi645]

Hello I read on twos r us that twos r us end links do not work withmegan racing coilovers for an sw20 now I'm not sure if that's the same case with celicas reason I ask is cuz my Celica has Megan racing coilovers and I want to invest in twos r us end links now does anyone here know if they ate compatable? Twos r us end links with Megan racing coilovers

[BonzaiCelica]

Edit why did i even waste my time

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Apr 19, 2013 - 3:39 AM

[mi645]

I already have sw20 stainless end links for my sw20

[malecrod]

Just wanna add. I tried the mevotech end links front and rear but ended replacing them, not because they were bad but it did not offer what I wanted. So I went with the gt4 ones on page one. They can be found under an ebay seller out of Poland named': 'gt4goodies'. I hesistated at first because of the look of the design (especially the rear) and the expense. So I bought and tried the front first and was impressed. I ended buying the rear and was equally impressed. I have used them for just over 3months now, and I'm glad to say the are still as good as when first installed.
It actually made the suspension feel tight together. The cost (about $200) for front and back is a bit much. And remind you, the seller is based in Poland so it takes about 2-3weeks to get them here in the states.
Something to consider for those looking for a performance geared end links. I'm in no way saying they are the best but I wanted put it out there as an option for some 6gc members.
Mine are on TRD springs, OEM struts and whitelines sway bars for your information.

This post has been edited by malecrod: Apr 21, 2013 - 10:56 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

Just wanna add. I tried the mevotech end links front and rear but ended replacing them, not because they were bad but it did not offer what I wanted. So I went with the gt4 ones on page one. They can be found under an ebay seller out of Poland named': 'gt4goodies'. I hesistated at first because of the look of the design (especially the rear) and the expense. So I bought and tried the front first and was impressed. I ended buying the rear and was equally impressed. I have used them for just over 3months now, and I'm glad to say the are still as good as when first installed.
It actually made the suspension feel tight together. The cost (about $200) for front and back is a bit much. And remind you, the seller is based in Poland so it takes about 2-3weeks to get them here in the states.
Something to consider for those looking for a performance geared end links. I'm in no way saying they are the best but I wanted put it out there as an option for some 6gc members.
Mine are on TRD springs, OEM struts and whitelines sway bars for your information.

you cannot compare solid end links to ball joint style end links. totally two different end links. thats not the correct term for the mevotech, moog and oem style but yea.

see link below to understand what i mean by spherical ball joints.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...&hl=twosrus

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Apr 21, 2013 - 1:05 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

Moog rear End links. oh yes i took one left hander turn and wow i'd say it handles like a Type r. but i still have yet to really test them out. I slightly bent the mounting tabs outward with a 10 inch vice grip in order to make sure the end link sat as parallel to the shock as possible




This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 3, 2013 - 1:34 PM

[trdproven]

wow haven't been here for a bit so you did the mevo up front and moog in the rears just like I did. nice

[yellowchinaman]

Mine.


To me I don't get the logic of a moving pivoted bush and Z positioned fittings besides being more forgiving when fitting and compatibility in parts.
I've gone for a fixed 90deg links so that force is directly transferred to the ARB and not absorbed into bending of the link bushes.
I'll give some feedback and see how they go in a few weeks time.

This post has been edited by yellowchinaman: Jun 13, 2014 - 6:20 AM

[toyota123]

That's a hefty part there. Interested in how you like it

[yellowchinaman]

That's a hefty part there. Interested in how you like it

Ill give some feedback in a few weeks and again a few months to see how they do.
its still a bit unknown how itll last being less forgiving with no ball joint.
I know for lower cars with more camber these wont fit as the struts and ARB needs to be near parallel to work. But in terms of performance I believe this should logically be best as it elements all soft play and flex transferring the force directly to the ARB.

This post has been edited by yellowchinaman: Jun 13, 2014 - 1:51 PM

[Batman722]

Stiffer links like those make a noticeable improvement IMO.
They allow the ARB to flex while keeping the car more level in turning.
Nice link.

[yellowchinaman]

Had a blast around some bends just now and WOW! I cant belive I used stock links with an uprated ARB. Feel so stupid now.

[jordisonjr]

Did you make those links?
They look really solid. If they work out are you planning to sell them? What sway bar and strut/spring or coilover are you running this on?

Edit: Looked again, looks like white line with bc coilovers?

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Jun 14, 2014 - 12:15 AM

[yellowchinaman]

Did you make those links?
They look really solid. If they work out are you planning to sell them? What sway bar and strut/spring or coilover are you running this on?

Edit: Looked again, looks like white line with bc coilovers?

You are correct.

I bought it off ebay and it was quite inexpensive.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360952254521?ssP...984.m1439.l2649

But please don't just jump in and buy them. Remember I am taking a risk here to see how they hold up without any pivot points. Buy at your own risk. I can tell you now if you're running with camber I doubt it'll work and could cause damage.

[955SFE]

For the Miata Racing Beat does it matter if I get the ones for a 90-97 Miata or 99-05 Miata?

[richee3]

They are the same. I know it's difficult to read but you can read a part number and it says "90-97 & 99-05 rear" on the label.

[955SFE]

I can see it.
Did you get around in installing them? If so, how do they feel?
Moog rear endlinks lasted me a bit over a year. I have ST sway bars now so I need something durable.
Looks I might end up getting those poly endlinks

[richee3]

I've had them in for a year and a half, maybe two years now. I still have the stock sway bar but they feel good. I won't say they stiffened anything up. More like they tightened everything up and made the suspension feel newer. Well worth the money spent. They do have some surface rust now but nothing serious.

[njccmd2002]

well ordered my racing beats too today...

[njccmd2002]

im tempted to install them on the front..

[Batman722]

I always wanted to do that.

You need a nut in between to lock them together.

[njccmd2002]

that was a test fit, with something i hacked in 5 minutes. really easy, tought about that not and a crush washer, and some loctite. It should work. Stiff as crap. if it breaks the arm, i can still weld.