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> ECU help please
post Jul 2, 2012 - 10:01 PM
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gotian

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Hi everyone my ECU took a dump on me and I'm trying to find a new one, I have a 95 GT Manual. I wanted to know if an Auto ECU will work if its a manual or do I need to find the manual one?
post Jul 2, 2012 - 10:11 PM
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jordisonjr



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Nope, pretty sure an auto ecu won't work.


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1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!
post Jul 2, 2012 - 10:33 PM
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SwissFerdi

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Yes, an auto ECU should work for you. I base this on the fact that in an OBDI system, those swapping from auto to manual can use the factory auto ECU, so should work the opposite way around as well.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jul 2, 2012 - 10:34 PM


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post Jul 2, 2012 - 11:04 PM
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gotian

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thanks, could someone give me a definite answer though, perhaps someone who has done this themselves
post Jul 2, 2012 - 11:16 PM
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mkernz22



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You'd be better off trying to get a manual one first
post Jul 2, 2012 - 11:20 PM
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gotian

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manual ones run about $200 and their auto counterparts run considerably less.
post Jul 3, 2012 - 10:19 AM
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KAOS



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I have a ECU out of a 94 GT for sale. PM me for a price if you're interested. thumbsup.gif


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post Jul 3, 2012 - 10:49 AM
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QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 2, 2012 - 11:20 PM) *
manual ones run about $200 and their auto counterparts run considerably less.

Really, I wouldnt pay more than $75 for one out of the scrapyard.

post Jul 3, 2012 - 10:51 AM
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SwissFerdi

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QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 3, 2012 - 12:20 AM) *
manual ones run about $200 and their auto counterparts run considerably less.


Where are you looking? The Orlando Pull&Pay sells them for $30 cash each...

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jul 3, 2012 - 10:51 AM


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'97 ST \ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+ [sold 10/18]
'93 MX-5 LE
post Jul 3, 2012 - 3:45 PM
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match220



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I'm selling the ECU from my 95 Manual GT, but it's a california model. If yours is a cali model then that's perfect.

QUOTE (SwissFerdi @ Jul 2, 2012 - 5:33 PM) *
Yes, an auto ECU should work for you. I base this on the fact that in an OBDI system, those swapping from auto to manual can use the factory auto ECU, so should work the opposite way around as well.


95 celicas are OBDII not OBDI. Mine was made in mid-94 and it has the OBDII plug. I had a 95 eclipse that had OBDII as well. It was mandatory for everyone to switch to OBDII in 96, some manufactures just switched early.


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jul 3, 2012 - 3:47 PM
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jordisonjr



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My 95 celica is OBDI..
Go on ebay and search st204 or st202 (can't remeber what I typed in) but theres a manual ecu for a GT for around 80 bucks I believe.


--------------------
-Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load.

1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!
post Jul 3, 2012 - 5:52 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (jordisonjr @ Jul 3, 2012 - 10:47 AM) *
My 95 celica is OBDI..
Go on ebay and search st204 or st202 (can't remeber what I typed in) but theres a manual ecu for a GT for around 80 bucks I believe.


huh..that's strange. My celica actually has both OBDI and OBDII plugs. But my 95 toyo truck only has OBDI. Maybe only cali model celica's came with OBDII plugs. Also I'm positive that mine is a 95 Celica made in mid 94.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jul 3, 2012 - 6:19 PM
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SwissFerdi

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QUOTE (match220 @ Jul 3, 2012 - 4:45 PM) *
95 celicas are OBDII not OBDI.


Nope.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jul 3, 2012 - 6:20 PM


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'97 ST \ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+ [sold 10/18]
'93 MX-5 LE
post Jul 3, 2012 - 7:20 PM
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Syaoran



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QUOTE (jordisonjr @ Jul 3, 2012 - 4:47 PM) *
My 95 celica is OBDI..
Go on ebay and search st204 or st202 (can't remeber what I typed in) but theres a manual ecu for a GT for around 80 bucks I believe.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-96-ST204-Celi...#ht_6310wt_1282


That's a 96 one, might be OBDII and incompatible because of it...


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1993 Celica GT Coupe - sold
1994 Celica GT Liftback
post Jul 3, 2012 - 8:05 PM
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jordisonjr



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Oh yea right sorry, my bad.
I just remembered seeing an ecu on there, didn't note the year.


--------------------
-Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load.

1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!
post Jul 3, 2012 - 9:22 PM
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gotian

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it was changed mid year to obd2, but mine is definitely an obd1
post Jul 5, 2012 - 9:54 PM
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gotian

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so help me out some more here. Are these symptoms of the ECU Failing, Hard starting where you need to press on the gas to get it fired up. when its running if you let go of the gas it will shut off and the rpm needle will spike up throwing codes. It will smoke out the exhaust when it starts up from burning unburnt fuel.

I have changed the distributor because it was failing and had oil inside of it. I got a new distributor, cap, and rotor.
post Jul 5, 2012 - 10:16 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 5, 2012 - 4:54 PM) *
so help me out some more here. Are these symptoms of the ECU Failing, Hard starting where you need to press on the gas to get it fired up. when its running if you let go of the gas it will shut off and the rpm needle will spike up throwing codes. It will smoke out the exhaust when it starts up from burning unburnt fuel.

I have changed the distributor because it was failing and had oil inside of it. I got a new distributor, cap, and rotor.


in my experience failing ECU's don't all act the same way. In the 3 cars that I've worked on that have had bad ECU's the symptoms are below. The ECU throwing codes and spiking the RPM gauge with the car off does seem like a faulty ECU. The celicas get the RPM signal directly from the ECU I believe, so it makes sense to see the RPM gauge jumping if it is bad. You should check your grounds on the car, more specifically the ECU ground that I believe is under the center console. The ECU had to fail for a reason, and I know it's not a common problem for the celicas to have ECU failure. Bad grounds will generally cause electronic components to fail. Some cars have faulty capacitors in the ECU that fail over time, and they leak on the circuitboard problems (problem that I thought I had in a turbo eclipse that I had, common eclipse problem).

Car 1: (OBDI early 90's Honda) ran rough all the time, smoked, and sputtered. There was a light on the ECU that blinked certain codes to show the engine code. It was solid, and didn't blink.
Car 2: (OBDII late 90's Volvo) wouldn't start at all.
Car 3: (OBDII early 00's Nissan) ran rough, smoked, sputtered, could not read ECU with diagnostic scanner.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jul 5, 2012 - 11:29 PM
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gotian

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thanks for the reply, now here is an issue i'm facing, ive never taken the ecu out of the celica before. I've done it in other cars. anyone have a DIY on removing the ecu?
post Jul 5, 2012 - 11:39 PM
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QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 5, 2012 - 6:29 PM) *
thanks for the reply, now here is an issue i'm facing, ive never taken the ecu out of the celica before. I've done it in other cars. anyone have a DIY on removing the ecu?


in my celica i had a ridiculously hard time just getting the center console out. What I ended up doing is popping off the cover around the radio and the other piece that goes around the shifter, then cutting the two thin plastic pieces in half so I could split the two halves of the center console. You won't be able to notice where it was cut once you put it all back together because the piece around the radio covers it. The pieces that I'm talking about are right in the middle of where the radio and A/C controls go. Once that is cut and the screws are undone that hold it in you can take out one or both of the sides of the center console and it is easier to get to the ECU. Then it's just a matter of getting to the screws that hold it in.

If you don't want to cut the center console in half you will probably have to take out the center armrest as well as one of the seats, and then pull the console out that way. Either way, it's hard to get to the ECU.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jul 6, 2012 - 12:56 AM
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gotian

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sounds like fun....(Tons of sarcasm implied) If anyone else has an easier way please let me know
post Jul 6, 2012 - 1:26 AM
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match220



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QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 5, 2012 - 7:56 PM) *
sounds like fun....(Tons of sarcasm implied) If anyone else has an easier way please let me know


lol..well, the sucky thing about it is the location of it and how the screws hold in the ECU. The A/C controls are directly above the ECU and they are pretty hard to remove, but even if you did remove them, you wouldn't be able to get to the screws holding in the ECU because they are on the sides facing the passenger and driver side. That's why you have to remove the center console, I suppose you can loosen the center console and try to pry it back far enough to get to the screws, but your body will be twisted and contorted just to where you can see behind the sides of the console and get the screwdriver in there. Someone might know another way but I can't see how it would be easier.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jul 6, 2012 - 5:57 AM
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Mine has never been that difficult. I removed the center console and then removed the 10mm bolts that hold the mounting brackets, then pulled it out with the brackets still attached.

The center console puts up a fight the first time but is easy after that. Just take your time, make sure you remove all the screws, then pull. If I recall correctly, it's 2 12mm bolts under the arm rest, a few screws under the shift and radio bezel, then a couple of screws on the sides. The arm rest needs to come completely out and but the glove box and panel in front of the driver's legs can be gently pried out of the way. I think the a/c controls need to come out as well. It sounds complicated but once you see it and do it, it can be done in just a few minutes.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jul 6, 2012 - 6:05 AM


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post Jul 6, 2012 - 7:58 AM
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QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 5, 2012 - 11:29 PM) *
thanks for the reply, now here is an issue i'm facing, ive never taken the ecu out of the celica before. I've done it in other cars. anyone have a DIY on removing the ecu?

In the driver and passengerside footwells, next to the glove box and accelerator pedal, the carpet goes underneath the plastic of the dash. Just pull this carpet out of the way and remove the screws holding the ECU in with a stubby screwdriver

You dont have to remove the center console, you may as well remove the engine to change the oil.
post Jul 6, 2012 - 8:50 AM
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QUOTE (match220 @ Jul 5, 2012 - 10:39 PM) *
QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 5, 2012 - 6:29 PM) *
thanks for the reply, now here is an issue i'm facing, ive never taken the ecu out of the celica before. I've done it in other cars. anyone have a DIY on removing the ecu?


in my celica i had a ridiculously hard time just getting the center console out. What I ended up doing is popping off the cover around the radio and the other piece that goes around the shifter, then cutting the two thin plastic pieces in half so I could split the two halves of the center console. You won't be able to notice where it was cut once you put it all back together because the piece around the radio covers it. The pieces that I'm talking about are right in the middle of where the radio and A/C controls go. Once that is cut and the screws are undone that hold it in you can take out one or both of the sides of the center console and it is easier to get to the ECU. Then it's just a matter of getting to the screws that hold it in.

If you don't want to cut the center console in half you will probably have to take out the center armrest as well as one of the seats, and then pull the console out that way. Either way, it's hard to get to the ECU.



... or you could just peel back the carpet on the passenger side, unplug the wire harness, and unscrew the ECU mounts from behind the center console... confused.gif

... mine just came right out; didn't have to chop anything up to get to it.

This post has been edited by KAOS: Jul 6, 2012 - 8:51 AM


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post Jul 6, 2012 - 1:50 PM
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gotian

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Yeah so I got the edu and swapped it, now the car won't turn over, it clicks once and that's it. I'm going to test the battery when the rain dies down
post Jul 6, 2012 - 7:39 PM
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QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 6, 2012 - 2:50 PM) *
Yeah so I got the edu and swapped it, now the car won't turn over, it clicks once and that's it. I'm going to test the battery when the rain dies down

If a Battery Terminal is loose then when the ignition is turned ON everything while light up normal. However when the key is turned to START the car clicks then totally looses power.

Double check your wires at the distributor and the ECU. A loose connection can cause crazy electrical problems.

Verify that the Check Engine Light illuminates when the key is turned to ON. This means its getting power.

Verify that both ECUs are indeed identical, from vehicles with identical equipment and above all the Distributors are the same.

Have the battery tested. You can set it in a trashbag in the trunk of your car and have it Tested and Charged for free at an autoparts store.

Wire Brush the battery terminals and put some baking soda on the clamps.

My personal rule for battery clamp tightness is that with my thumb and forefinger I should not be able to twist the clamp loose.

Oh and always double check your grounds. tongue.gif
post Jul 7, 2012 - 12:17 AM
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i work at autozone, distributor is new and the same, the ecu is the same. Battery might have died from the door being left open, dont know. But i will be continuing tomorrow.
post Jul 7, 2012 - 7:30 AM
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can someone show me a picture of obd plugs?

i wanted obd usb cable for my car but i'm told its not obd its toyota proprietry???


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GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC
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post Jul 7, 2012 - 8:02 PM
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ODBI plug is not only Toyota proprietary, its Celica proprietary. I say this because I went up to the shop the first time my check engine light ever came on and grabbed the Toyota OBDI adapter plug and it will NOT fit because 2 of the terminals are jumped together with a metal jumper bracket that to knowledge doesn't come out. Now don't quote me on that, for all I know the jumper bracket could pull out but I really didn't want to mess with it cause it looked like it was there for good. Lol.

If I'm wrong and it does come out, then you'll need a Toyota OBDI to OBDII adapter.

OBDI plugs are proprietary, OBDII are standard.

This post has been edited by travisxcore: Jul 7, 2012 - 8:03 PM
post Jul 7, 2012 - 9:06 PM
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http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...mp;#entry968098

I have the same connector he has in my engine bay... i have no connectors under the steering wheel or anything like that. mine is a 1996 jdm gtfour model

QUOTE (UVZ164 @ May 15, 2012 - 6:49 PM) *
Hi guys,

I have a 97 ZR model (the Australian GT). I was under the impression that 96+ models were all OBD II, but maybe thats only in America?
I was recently trying to find the OBDII port on my car but i couldnt... I looked all under the dash around where the pedals are, on the pass side but nothing.
Under the hood theres the diagnostics box infront of where the pass sits (driver for the us guys) i have attached a photo of it.




Is this the OBD I port where I connect the E1 and TE1 terminals and look for flashes inside the car?

Can anyone post a pic of their OBDII port just incase im having a seniors moment?

Thanks


--------------------
Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR
GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC
269awhp / 273ft-lbs
post Jul 7, 2012 - 9:11 PM
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delusionz



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so what can i do with that port so i can use a program on my laptop like ECUtalk

can i buy an OBDI cable and hack the connector and manually poke the prongs into my diag port?

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jul 7, 2012 - 9:14 PM


--------------------
Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR
GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC
269awhp / 273ft-lbs
post Jul 9, 2012 - 1:23 AM
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QUOTE (delusionz @ Jul 7, 2012 - 10:11 PM) *
so what can i do with that port so i can use a program on my laptop like ECUtalk

can i buy an OBDI cable and hack the connector and manually poke the prongs into my diag port?

Its really just raw data for diagnostics. You couldnt communicate with the ECU through it if thats what your thinking.
post Jul 9, 2012 - 3:54 PM
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gotian

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so after installing the new ecu it would not fire up, just crank. I put the old one back and it fired up but shut off. We put the diagnostic scanner back on and it threw only one code this time. Code 14 no signal to igniter. I have another igniter coming in by wednesday so hopefully thats it, mine looked like something blew up inside and was leaking something from the sides of it, plus all it does is get really hot when I try to crank it.

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