My DIYPNP install! Options

[lagos]

I finally found some time to assemble my DIYPNP kit today. :thumbup
The assembly process wasn't too bad. Everything was clearly labeled and the instructions were easy to follow. But if youre reading this and you bought an MSPNP, consider yourself lucky as soldering lots of very tiny components too up most of the day (and I'm still not done!).

I started out with this:


And after a few hours here is where I'm at!



This is the kit I'm using.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-...-kit-p-384.html

Along with the sequential injection mod.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-...-kit-p-386.html

[Smaay]

what is it going to be running?

[lagos]

what is it going to be running?

My 2nd gen 3sgte.

[Syaoran]

I love MS.

Did you get the JimStim?

[lagos]

I love MS.

Did you get the JimStim?

No. I'm using DIYPNP and it doesn't really work well with jimstim so I'll just have to test it on the car.

[Syaoran]

I love MS.

Did you get the JimStim?

No. I'm using DIYPNP and it doesn't really work well with jimstim so I'll just have to test it on the car.

Damn do it really really carefully, you won't want to troubleshoot that Did you get this before the MSPNP for the 2nd gen came out?

[Batman722]

Art, you are one crazy mother trucker.

[lagos]

I love MS.

Did you get the JimStim?

No. I'm using DIYPNP and it doesn't really work well with jimstim so I'll just have to test it on the car.

Damn do it really really carefully, you won't want to troubleshoot that Did you get this before the MSPNP for the 2nd gen came out?

I got it after the MSPNP was out. I wanted the diy kit to save some money, but in hindsight the additional $300 that they charge is well worth the amount of time and research it takes to assemble one! It also didn't help that I'm one of the first few people to do this kit on a 3sgte, and there is no specific howto for the 3sgte. But I will say, the guys from diyautotune have given me the most amazing customer service and support in getting this setup! They will be posting up my install notes once I verify that everything is working.

Anyway, here it is all completed. Tomorrow I hook it up to the car, load the firmware, and find out if I messed anything up!








This post has been edited by lagos: Oct 12, 2012 - 1:09 AM

[Syaoran]

I love MS.

Did you get the JimStim?

No. I'm using DIYPNP and it doesn't really work well with jimstim so I'll just have to test it on the car.

Damn do it really really carefully, you won't want to troubleshoot that Did you get this before the MSPNP for the 2nd gen came out?

I got it after the MSPNP was out. I wanted the diy kit to save some money, but in hindsight the additional $300 that they charge is well worth the amount of time and research it takes to assemble one! It also didn't help that I'm one of the first few people to do this kit on a 3sgte, and there is no specific howto for the 3sgte. But I will say, the guys from diyautotune have given me the most amazing customer service and support in getting this setup! They will be posting up my install notes once I verify that everything is working.

Anyway, here it is all completed. Tomorrow I hook it up to the car, load the firmware, and find out if I messed anything up!



http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h224/lag...10-12011014.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h224/lag...10-12011020.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h224/lag...10-12011028.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h224/lag...10-12010831.jpg

Yeah, unless you have a friend like I do who'll do the work for you for a couple of bucks, it's much better to get a MS-II or MS-III pre-assembled, let alone the DIYPNP. The MSPNP even comes with a base map for you to build from and fully integrates the OEM stuff perfectly, and has room for upgrades to boot (say you can later open it up and make it a fully-sequential capable with just a couple of bucks for the parts necessary to solder in)

And DIYAutoTune's customer service is, by FAR, the best customer service I've had. I remember talking to 3 different service reps before buying my MS-II and having my friend convincing me to get it pre-assembled so he could get some cash out of it (I still saved some vs if I had bought it pre-assembled), and they were all so kind and complacent... infinite patience? it seemed like they had it haha.

P.S. It's looking kickass and I wish you the best of luck, glad to have somebody else on the board using MS.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Oct 12, 2012 - 1:53 AM

[delusionz]

i havent seen any threads in regards to tuning, since it can all be done DIY, it would be good when you guys can to share some information about your tuning,

eg,

software - tunerstudio?
additional sensors - eg bosch wideband
tips for afr target auto tune - partial load? full load? how much boost to run?
listening for knock and setting ignition timing
setting fuel/ign trims


is this something we should even be getting into without some sort of tuning school?

[jcbass7]

Art, I am stoked to see this thread come up. I will be following along closely. I recently decided to go with the DIYPNP set-up on my car (3rd gen), initially just as a piggy back to get the fuel tuned, and then further on from there when I get comfortable with the process. Keep us updated!

[lagos]

i havent seen any threads in regards to tuning, since it can all be done DIY, it would be good when you guys can to share some information about your tuning,

eg,

software - tunerstudio?
additional sensors - eg bosch wideband
tips for afr target auto tune - partial load? full load? how much boost to run?
listening for knock and setting ignition timing
setting fuel/ign trims


is this something we should even be getting into without some sort of tuning school?

Yes Tunerstudio is what you will use.
You also need a wideband. Not just the sensor something that comes with a controller/gauge like innovative, aem, etc...

Look through the documentation on www.diyautotune.com . They have a lot of tuning tips.
Since they have an MSPNP for our engine now, you will get a good basemap to work with and only have to make some small adjustments. You can tune the a/f ratio yourself on the street but ignition timing really has to be done on a load based dyno (not dynojet).

Knock detection is one area where the different versions of MS differ greatly. The DIYPNP has very basic knock detection, the MSPNP offers something thats middle of the road, while MS3 has VERY good knock detection. This is an area you will want to research to decide what you want to do. Personally I decided to go with an J&S Knock Guard for knock detection. This will offer great detection and allow me to maybe even street tune some of my ignition timing.

All the other settings for crank angle, temperature sensors,etc... all come on the base map included!

[Syaoran]

i havent seen any threads in regards to tuning, since it can all be done DIY, it would be good when you guys can to share some information about your tuning,

eg,

software - tunerstudio?
additional sensors - eg bosch wideband
tips for afr target auto tune - partial load? full load? how much boost to run?
listening for knock and setting ignition timing
setting fuel/ign trims


is this something we should even be getting into without some sort of tuning school?

TunerStudio is more than good enough, and it's free. If you don't have a serial port in your tuning laptop, a USB-to-serial adapter will be needed and there's many around for that, however there's only one (the most expensive one at RadioShack) that won't give you any issues. The cheaper ones work but will sometimes simply not want to connect your Laptop to the MS.

I have an MS-II. In retrospect I should've gotten a MS-III and will most likely upgrade eventually for the additional stuff (if my goals so require it, for now MS-II is enough).

Given you no longer need to use ANY of your factory sensors when you go MS-II or MS-III (MSPNP will require all stock sensors minus AFM if applicable (Gen 2s have AFM which can be removed when MSPNP is installed) but you can get aftermarket sensors that can be calibrated to work flawlessly since the software is the same as MS-II)

I want to do a distributorless ignition setup but for now a hybrid, wasted spark setup will have to do. I'm currently running the stock distro in my 5S, which isn't compatible at all. For a 3S, I'd get the Electromotive Tec3 crank trigger wheel setup and use the sensor it comes with in the package. There's a company that sells a crank and cam trigger wheel setup with 1zz coil on plug coil packs for full-sequential capabilities... you guys have it all.

Once I go boost I'm going to adapt a GM IAT sensor to my cold pipe and I'll try to put in a GM knock sensor in the stock location if possible. I want automatic knock retard when I go boosted, without having to purchase additional units/modules.

As for widebands, the best one to go with is the Innovate LC-1, it's proven to work and is VERY compatible with MS. It's the one they sell on their website, even. You can get a genuine controller, gauge and sensor combo on eBay for about 170 bucks too, so it's cheaper than most of its competition.

MS-II, MSPNP and MS-III all have target AFR auto-tune capabilities.

As for tuning, unless you've done tuning before I wouldn't touch the maps. They're basically the same as stock 3S-GTE maps on the MSPNP unit. I personally haven't tuned anything myself, I have a friend that does tuning for a living and wanted to learn how to use TunerStudio so I let him do it, and he's currently tuning my Celica.

[delusionz]

So is the base map good to drive on after an AFR auto tune?

would i have any need to change ignition system components?

i have gen3 3s-gte

[lagos]

If you don't have a serial port in your tuning laptop, a USB-to-serial adapter will be needed and there's many around for that, however there's only one (the most expensive one at RadioShack) that won't give you any issues.

This is what I'm dealing with right now. I keep getting comport errors and I'm using the adapter from DIYAutotune! I don't know if the issue is with my soldering/wiring or with the adapter.

[Syaoran]

So is the base map good to drive on after an AFR auto tune?

would i have any need to change ignition system components?

i have gen3 3s-gte

The MSPNP is for the Gen2 3SGTE. You'll need MS-II or MS-III for the gen3. In your case I'd get MS-III. There's a lot of things you can get for the 3S-GTE ignition-wise, but the best bang for the buck is keeping it how it is and simply reading off a 36-1 crank trigger wheel with a VR sensor. You won't have to c

If you don't have a serial port in your tuning laptop, a USB-to-serial adapter will be needed and there's many around for that, however there's only one (the most expensive one at RadioShack) that won't give you any issues.

This is what I'm dealing with right now. I keep getting comport errors and I'm using the adapter from DIYAutotune! I don't know if the issue is with my soldering/wiring or with the adapter.

Yeah, it's not your soldering. That's normal, even with their adapter. Even I get errors sometimes, but it's a rare occurrence. This is the one I'm using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=3120513

The best cables are the ones with an FTDI chipset (you can look them up as "USB to RS232 Serial cable FTDI Chipset")

Here's an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-to-Serial-...e#ht_3264wt_952

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Oct 12, 2012 - 8:51 PM

[lagos]

So is the base map good to drive on after an AFR auto tune?

would i have any need to change ignition system components?

i have gen3 3s-gte

The MSPNP is for the Gen2 3SGTE. You'll need MS-II or MS-III for the gen3. In your case I'd get MS-III. There's a lot of things you can get for the 3S-GTE ignition-wise, but the best bang for the buck is keeping it how it is and simply reading off a 36-1 crank trigger wheel with a VR sensor. You won't have to c

If you don't have a serial port in your tuning laptop, a USB-to-serial adapter will be needed and there's many around for that, however there's only one (the most expensive one at RadioShack) that won't give you any issues.

This is what I'm dealing with right now. I keep getting comport errors and I'm using the adapter from DIYAutotune! I don't know if the issue is with my soldering/wiring or with the adapter.

Yeah, it's not your soldering. That's normal, even with their adapter. Even I get errors sometimes, but it's a rare occurrence. This is the one I'm using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=3120513

The best cables are the ones with an FTDI chipset (you can look them up as "USB to RS232 Serial cable FTDI Chipset")

Here's an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-to-Serial-...e#ht_3264wt_952

Hmm I hope your right because right now I can't even load the firmware on it! And I tried at least 4 different laptops.

This post has been edited by lagos: Oct 12, 2012 - 9:00 PM

[Syaoran]

I'm assuming you followed this? http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs1_5/...g_firmware.html

I can't help you much with DIYPNP since what I know is exclusively MS-II which is a tad different d:

[soulshadow]

You have to set the correct com port and you have to manually adjust the settings for the com port with the correct Baud Rate and options on you PC, or it will never read with the Megasquirt correctly, especially If your using a USB to Serial adapter.

[soulshadow]

Baud Rate = 115200
Data Bits = 8
Parity = None
stop bits = 1
Flow control = none

These are found under Port Settings in Device Manager for your adapter.
Baud Rate is the only one that needs changed, make sure it matches with the stuff above. Usually the old ones required a baud rate of 9600 especially on the MS1 and 2 system

[Matt_Cramer]

The settings sound OK. At this point, it looks like the only things to suspect are the adapter and the module; I'm not seeing any obvious assembly errors. If the USB adapter passes a loopback test, email me and I'll set up a warranty return on the MicroSquirt Module.

[ricochet1490]

This topic sparks my interest.

[lagos]

The settings sound OK. At this point, it looks like the only things to suspect are the adapter and the module; I'm not seeing any obvious assembly errors. If the USB adapter passes a loopback test, email me and I'll set up a warranty return on the MicroSquirt Module.

Thanks for joining our forum here Matt! I'll keep you posted!

[soulshadow]

You did Jumper the board for programming........right?

[lagos]

You did Jumper the board for programming........right?

Yes the boot jumper is in place. I even have continuity between ground and the boot pin on microsquirt, so the jumper is on and working.
I also performed loopback tests on the usb to serial cable, as well as a loopback going through the board. Everything checked out.

The only problem I found is that I'm not getting either 5v or ground (not sure which I should have with diypnp) on pin9 of the db9 connector. I don't know if this is what's causing the issue.

[rave2n]

The best cables are the ones with an FTDI chipset (you can look them up as "USB to RS232 Serial cable FTDI Chipset")

Here's an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-to-Serial-...e#ht_3264wt_952

^^ Good info.

In my line of work we have to use those types of USB>RS232 for many applications as the others fall off. Some of the equipment is very close in design for what you guys are doing, just it controls transmitters =P

[soulshadow]

I take it that your board is getting 12V+ from your car and a good GND connection? Its difficult to troubleshoot when their isn't any wiring schematics at DIYautotune

[lagos]

I take it that your board is getting 12V+ from your car and a good GND connection? Its difficult to troubleshoot when their isn't any wiring schematics at DIYautotune

Yup. My 12v and 5v pins all check out and it looks like microsquirt is getting power. I ran serial loop back tests through the pcb board, have continuity between the serial port pinouts and microsquirt and I'm getting power and ground at all the right pinouts from the serial port. Everything should work.

You're right, I didn't see any detailed schematics for the diypnp 1.5b pcb board like there are for ms2, ms3, and microsquirt. But from what I can tell, it looks like the serial port goes directly through the pcb board into the microsquirt module, so if I have continuity between the serial port and pcb, everything should work.

So all signs are point to it being an issue with the preassembled micrsquirt board. I'll be sending it back to diyautotune for testing and hopefully it ends up being a warranty replacement issue.

[soulshadow]

Good Luck!

[playr158]

:bump: What happened to this!

hopefully its not like my project :eeps:

[lagos]

I had trouble loading the firmware as stated above. It turned out that the problem was with a bad Microsquirt board (the one circuit board that actually comes preassembled). DIYAutotune replaced the board for free and now that issue is resolved. The only problem left is that I am not getting a good cam signal and the car wont start. I messed around with it for a bit and still have a few more things to try, but with school and the holidays, the project got put on the back burner...so yeah it kinda turned into a Dan project.

[WannabeGT4]

Any updates?

[Syaoran]

Are you using the stock distributor's sensor for cam signal?

[lagos]

Are you using the stock distributor's sensor for cam signal?

Yes, but I'm having trouble getting megasquirt to see it. You have MS2 on your car? How are you getting your cam signal?

I'm waiting till the end of this month to get back into this project once I actually have a bit of free time to waste. Its really just down to a single thing keeping it from running.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 16, 2013 - 8:31 PM

[Syaoran]

Yes, I'm using MS2. We tapped it directly at the distributor. Do yourself a favor and get a 98+ oil pump with crank sensor setup. Mine ran (before the engine died) and could be tuned and everything, but it never turned on right (sometimes sent spark with intake valves open, sounded like a loud scrape, like when you tighten a thick ziptie, and then smoke came out the throttle body)

You need a 98+ oil pump, the 98+ crank timing gear and the crank sensor. It's a 36-2 wheel and I'm pretty sure the MS2 has the capability to decode it. It's a little bit more work than you'd want, but it for sure is a much more reliable setup.

For full sequential, if you want, you could also get the bracket for the cam sensor, the cam sensor and the cam sprocket with the single tooth. My 98+ engine I bought recently had all of that on it. I don't have any part numbers on had right now, though, sorry about that.

EDIT: I don't know if you've opened the stock distributor to take a look at the trigger wheel, but it's not a regular trigger wheel. It's weird in that it's got 4 slanted tooth. It's pretty advanced for its time, something only the OEM ECU can decode.

Before I bought the new engine, I was going to do a different setup that worked on a friend's MR2. I was going to use a rev1 5sfe distributor and 420a coils. I bought the setup but never used it, if you'd like to try that for a less involved setup. You need to do a couple of things though. You need to make hybrid plug wires out of your 5S plug wires and the 420a plug wires I have (you need the connectors for the coils since they're HEI female-type, vs our Male-type connectors) and you need to align the 24-tooth trigger wheel on the distributor to TDC and calculate the tooth you need to dremel out for it to be a 24-1 trigger wheel which the MS2 can read perfectly, and it's got enough resolution for translation to Crank Position.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Apr 16, 2013 - 9:00 PM

[Syaoran]

I also forgot to mention you'd need 2 BIP373 in your MS, because the coils are coils only, not coils with in-built igniters. So if you already have one, you'd just need to solder in another.

[lagos]

Yes, I'm using MS2. We tapped it directly at the distributor. Do yourself a favor and get a 98+ oil pump with crank sensor setup. Mine ran (before the engine died) and could be tuned and everything, but it never turned on right (sometimes sent spark with intake valves open, sounded like a loud scrape, like when you tighten a thick ziptie, and then smoke came out the throttle body)

You need a 98+ oil pump, the 98+ crank timing gear and the crank sensor. It's a 36-2 wheel and I'm pretty sure the MS2 has the capability to decode it. It's a little bit more work than you'd want, but it for sure is a much more reliable setup.

For full sequential, if you want, you could also get the bracket for the cam sensor, the cam sensor and the cam sprocket with the single tooth. My 98+ engine I bought recently had all of that on it. I don't have any part numbers on had right now, though, sorry about that.

EDIT: I don't know if you've opened the stock distributor to take a look at the trigger wheel, but it's not a regular trigger wheel. It's weird in that it's got 4 slanted tooth. It's pretty advanced for its time, something only the OEM ECU can decode.

Before I bought the new engine, I was going to do a different setup that worked on a friend's MR2. I was going to use a rev1 5sfe distributor and 420a coils. I bought the setup but never used it, if you'd like to try that for a less involved setup. You need to do a couple of things though. You need to make hybrid plug wires out of your 5S plug wires and the 420a plug wires I have (you need the connectors for the coils since they're HEI female-type, vs our Male-type connectors) and you need to align the 24-tooth trigger wheel on the distributor to TDC and calculate the tooth you need to dremel out for it to be a 24-1 trigger wheel which the MS2 can read perfectly, and it's got enough resolution for translation to Crank Position.

Thanks for the advice, but its a little different with the DIYPNP and the basic MS2. The DIYPNP should have everything needed to decode the stock distributor. I have talked to at least one person who has their car running on it, and DIYAUTOTUNE developed an MSPNP based on it.

I'm getting a good clean crank signal from the distributor, but nothing shows up for the cam. Normally they tell you to use a resistor to "pull down" the threshold that the ecu is seeing with a 51kohm resistor. This is what they do to get their MSPNP units to work. However for me this did not work. I am taking my cam signal from the G1 input, and I'm thinking there might be some issue with my distributor. I'm going to rewire it to take the cam signal from G2 and see how that works. If I'm still having problems, I can run the signal through the LM185 conditioner, and hopefully that would resolve the issue. The real problem is that very few people have done this before, and there is no tutorial for me to just follow in someone's footsteps.

I really wish I had a spare 3sgte distributor here, just so that I could do all of this on the bench and spin the distributor with a drill. This would make things a lot easier to figure out, then to have to run out to the car everytime I make a small adjustment.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 16, 2013 - 9:40 PM

[Syaoran]

I forgot your DIYPNP is for the 3SGTE, right?

[WannabeGT4]

Yes, I'm using MS2. We tapped it directly at the distributor. Do yourself a favor and get a 98+ oil pump with crank sensor setup. Mine ran (before the engine died) and could be tuned and everything, but it never turned on right (sometimes sent spark with intake valves open, sounded like a loud scrape, like when you tighten a thick ziptie, and then smoke came out the throttle body)

You need a 98+ oil pump, the 98+ crank timing gear and the crank sensor. It's a 36-2 wheel and I'm pretty sure the MS2 has the capability to decode it. It's a little bit more work than you'd want, but it for sure is a much more reliable setup.

For full sequential, if you want, you could also get the bracket for the cam sensor, the cam sensor and the cam sprocket with the single tooth. My 98+ engine I bought recently had all of that on it. I don't have any part numbers on had right now, though, sorry about that.

EDIT: I don't know if you've opened the stock distributor to take a look at the trigger wheel, but it's not a regular trigger wheel. It's weird in that it's got 4 slanted tooth. It's pretty advanced for its time, something only the OEM ECU can decode.

Before I bought the new engine, I was going to do a different setup that worked on a friend's MR2. I was going to use a rev1 5sfe distributor and 420a coils. I bought the setup but never used it, if you'd like to try that for a less involved setup. You need to do a couple of things though. You need to make hybrid plug wires out of your 5S plug wires and the 420a plug wires I have (you need the connectors for the coils since they're HEI female-type, vs our Male-type connectors) and you need to align the 24-tooth trigger wheel on the distributor to TDC and calculate the tooth you need to dremel out for it to be a 24-1 trigger wheel which the MS2 can read perfectly, and it's got enough resolution for translation to Crank Position.

Thanks for the advice, but its a little different with the DIYPNP and the basic MS2. The DIYPNP should have everything needed to decode the stock distributor. I have talked to at least one person who has their car running on it, and DIYAUTOTUNE developed an MSPNP based on it.

I'm getting a good clean crank signal from the distributor, but nothing shows up for the cam. Normally they tell you to use a resistor to "pull down" the threshold that the ecu is seeing with a 51kohm resistor. This is what they do to get their MSPNP units to work. However for me this did not work. I am taking my cam signal from the G1 input, and I'm thinking there might be some issue with my distributor. I'm going to rewire it to take the cam signal from G2 and see how that works. If I'm still having problems, I can run the signal through the LM185 conditioner, and hopefully that would resolve the issue. The real problem is that very few people have done this before, and there is no tutorial for me to just follow in someone's footsteps.

I really wish I had a spare 3sgte distributor here, just so that I could do all of this on the bench and spin the distributor with a drill. This would make things a lot easier to figure out, then to have to run out to the car everytime I make a small adjustment.

I'm pretty sure I've got an extra distributor laying around that I had planned on rebuilding. I can send it to you if you'd like to borrow it.

[lagos]

I forgot your DIYPNP is for the 3SGTE, right?

Yes. Are you running yours on a 5sfe?

Yes, I'm using MS2. We tapped it directly at the distributor. Do yourself a favor and get a 98+ oil pump with crank sensor setup. Mine ran (before the engine died) and could be tuned and everything, but it never turned on right (sometimes sent spark with intake valves open, sounded like a loud scrape, like when you tighten a thick ziptie, and then smoke came out the throttle body)

You need a 98+ oil pump, the 98+ crank timing gear and the crank sensor. It's a 36-2 wheel and I'm pretty sure the MS2 has the capability to decode it. It's a little bit more work than you'd want, but it for sure is a much more reliable setup.

For full sequential, if you want, you could also get the bracket for the cam sensor, the cam sensor and the cam sprocket with the single tooth. My 98+ engine I bought recently had all of that on it. I don't have any part numbers on had right now, though, sorry about that.

EDIT: I don't know if you've opened the stock distributor to take a look at the trigger wheel, but it's not a regular trigger wheel. It's weird in that it's got 4 slanted tooth. It's pretty advanced for its time, something only the OEM ECU can decode.

Before I bought the new engine, I was going to do a different setup that worked on a friend's MR2. I was going to use a rev1 5sfe distributor and 420a coils. I bought the setup but never used it, if you'd like to try that for a less involved setup. You need to do a couple of things though. You need to make hybrid plug wires out of your 5S plug wires and the 420a plug wires I have (you need the connectors for the coils since they're HEI female-type, vs our Male-type connectors) and you need to align the 24-tooth trigger wheel on the distributor to TDC and calculate the tooth you need to dremel out for it to be a 24-1 trigger wheel which the MS2 can read perfectly, and it's got enough resolution for translation to Crank Position.

Thanks for the advice, but its a little different with the DIYPNP and the basic MS2. The DIYPNP should have everything needed to decode the stock distributor. I have talked to at least one person who has their car running on it, and DIYAUTOTUNE developed an MSPNP based on it.

I'm getting a good clean crank signal from the distributor, but nothing shows up for the cam. Normally they tell you to use a resistor to "pull down" the threshold that the ecu is seeing with a 51kohm resistor. This is what they do to get their MSPNP units to work. However for me this did not work. I am taking my cam signal from the G1 input, and I'm thinking there might be some issue with my distributor. I'm going to rewire it to take the cam signal from G2 and see how that works. If I'm still having problems, I can run the signal through the LM185 conditioner, and hopefully that would resolve the issue. The real problem is that very few people have done this before, and there is no tutorial for me to just follow in someone's footsteps.

I really wish I had a spare 3sgte distributor here, just so that I could do all of this on the bench and spin the distributor with a drill. This would make things a lot easier to figure out, then to have to run out to the car everytime I make a small adjustment.

I'm pretty sure I've got an extra distributor laying around that I had planned on rebuilding. I can send it to you if you'd like to borrow it.

That would be awesome!

[Syaoran]

I forgot your DIYPNP is for the 3SGTE, right?

Yes. Are you running yours on a 5sfe?

Yep, the distributors are different, I believe. 3S distributor is more like the one I have that I was gonna modify (various teeth instead of the 4 slanted teeth)

[WannabeGT4]

That would be awesome!

Haven't forgot about you. I need to find time to rummage through my storage shed to find it.

[lagos]

That would be awesome!

Haven't forgot about you. I need to find time to rummage through my storage shed to find it.

Yeah its fine..whenever. PM me if you ever find it.

[lagos]

Small update on the project.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNjWKyVoZS4

[WannabeGT4]

Nice. Dyno run soon?

[lagos]

More like street tune, soon.

[Special_Edy]

There may be some useful info about the distributor signals here-
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

[lagos]

There may be some useful info about the distributor signals here-
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

Thanks. There were really two small issues that were preventing me from getting the car running. One was that my injectors were not wired up by firing order for sequential injection. The other was that I was taking a cam signal form G1, when the basemap for MSPNP looks like its setup for G2. After switching to the G2 distributor cam pickup, the car fired right up!

I would have had this running a lot sooner, but everything got put on hold due to school, life, work, etc...

If anyone is interested, I can post up the 3sgte specific information needed to get the DIYPNP running on any 3s.

[WannabeGT4]

If anyone is interested, I can post up the 3sgte specific information needed to get the DIYPNP running on any 3s.

I, for one, am interested. Probably going to be the next thing I do to my 3S after I replace the head gasket.

[playr158]

Nice work Art!

[presure2]

There may be some useful info about the distributor signals here-
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

Thanks. There were really two small issues that were preventing me from getting the car running. One was that my injectors were not wired up by firing order for sequential injection. The other was that I was taking a cam signal form G1, when the basemap for MSPNP looks like its setup for G2. After switching to the G2 distributor cam pickup, the car fired right up!

I would have had this running a lot sooner, but everything got put on hold due to school, life, work, etc...

If anyone is interested, I can post up the 3sgte specific information needed to get the DIYPNP running on any 3s.

thats AWESOME art!!
Definetly post up the info, if you have pics or anything, let me know, I can actually host them here on the site so that when we sticky it, the info will be there as long as the site is. lol

[jcbass7]

If anyone is interested, I can post up the 3sgte specific information needed to get the DIYPNP running on any 3s.

Definitely interested, was kinda waiting for you to figure it out first Art

Nice work!

[lagos]

If anyone is interested, I can post up the 3sgte specific information needed to get the DIYPNP running on any 3s.

Definitely interested, was kinda waiting for you to figure it out first Art

Nice work!

Hahaha, really? Why am I the guinea pig?
You can order up your kit and start soldering. There is actually quite a bit of work to do before you get to the 3sgte specific portion.
I'll make a new how to thread in a few days or weeks. I want to make sure everything is finalized so that I don't have to make corrections later.

One thing I learned is that an EMS does not just solve all of your problems. If anything it creates brand new ones, but you do learn a lot. For example, just getting the car to free rev nicely and fall back to idle requires some know how. You would think that idle is purely related to your idle control valve, but actually your timing map plays a bigger role and there are some tricks you need to know. I finally got mine figured out.

Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get my injectors to cut off when I let off the throttle. Things like this you take for granted with your stock ecu.

One HUGELY helpful thing is AUTOTUNE. Its a feature of Tunerstudio (plan an extra 60 bucks in your budget, you're going to need this), that adjusts your VE map based on a target A/F ratio map that you provide. You just set it up and it fine tunes everything for you as you drive the car around. Beats sitting there with another person and trying to communicate what you want them to change. Its amazing that Haltech and a few other big name ecu's don't have this.

The timing map will probably also need to be dyno tuned. The one provided is just a base map, and far from perfect. In some areas the car had more power stock and other areas make my JS Safeguard light up like a tree.

But overall the car drives very smoothly and the ecu seems very reliable. Really surprising for something that started out as a bag of resistors on my desk.