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> convertible motor roll pins (tension pins)
post Aug 31, 2013 - 10:59 PM
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match220



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I'm getting sick of replacing these things. I recently greased every hinge in the convertible top while I was replacing the canvas, and I'm still popping roll pins! It is getting frustrating, but I am getting very efficient at replacing these things.

Where are you guys buying your roll pins? I keep getting them from a local hardware store on island, and I'm suspecting they are made of cheap steel. How do homedepot, lowes, or ace roll pins fare? Or is there a place that you guys have bought them from online?


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Sep 2, 2013 - 8:59 AM
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njccmd2002



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Lol do it once. Do it right. In Home Depot buy titanium drill bits. 16/32 can't really remember the size. Then cut to fit. It's held for4 years


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post Sep 2, 2013 - 2:22 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 2, 2013 - 3:59 AM) *
Lol do it once. Do it right. In Home Depot buy titanium drill bits. 16/32 can't really remember the size. Then cut to fit. It's held for4 years


lol..I would rather put in tension pins that are rated at the OEM tension. The titanium bits will never break. I'll think about it. I do want a better tension pin though.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Sep 2, 2013 - 9:24 PM
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njccmd2002



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never had any problems with it. and titanium pins, do break. especially the small ones. you are not going to find something more suitable, because those mechs are old, and you will keep breaking those pins.


--------------------
Learned a lot in 10 years... I hardly log in anymore, last login Today Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOL

If you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in

2grfe Swapped... Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...

A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.


@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
post Sep 2, 2013 - 10:03 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Sep 2, 2013 - 4:24 PM) *
never had any problems with it. and titanium pins, do break. especially the small ones. you are not going to find something more suitable, because those mechs are old, and you will keep breaking those pins.


the tension pin is there so that it snaps instead of stripping out a gear or burning out the motor. You are talking about putting a solid drill bit in instead so that it doesn't snap, that is something I don't want to do. I have some 3/16 drill bits, and since you haven't had any problems with it maybe I'll do it. But I don't think it is right, I still think I just found some cheap tension pins. I'm probably going to measure the exact size at the hardware store and find the ones with the most tensile strength online if I can. Then if they snap again I'll do the drill bit thing.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Sep 9, 2013 - 11:56 AM
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TRDweaponX



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Toyota did a crap job on the convertible tops for our cars
post Sep 9, 2013 - 3:13 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (TRDweaponX @ Sep 9, 2013 - 6:56 AM) *
Toyota did a crap job on the convertible tops for our cars


Actually toyota had ASC do our tops. Toyota shipped the unfinished cars to California from the Japan manufacturing plant and they finished the production in California. So ASC did a crap job on our tops


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Sep 9, 2013 - 3:25 PM
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TRDweaponX



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lol my bad I forgot about that sticker inside the door. They still did a crap job. They dont seem to hold up to aging very well. Ive had problems with both of my verts so far. I havent been able to find much info on our tops. Ive got a Haynes repair manual and it barely touches on the tops. I thought about a Chilton but all I have found cover the ST models (yes I know all verts are GT coupes).

This post has been edited by TRDweaponX: Sep 9, 2013 - 3:26 PM
post Sep 9, 2013 - 7:56 PM
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FrankB2

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I've had my 1997 convertible for nearly a year, and the top has been perfect so far. It looks faded enough to be original, and it was a one-owner car. We use the top a LOT, and I've thought about replacing it because it doesn't look new, but it's still an 8 out of 10 (only due to being faded a bit). I took the rocker covers off this past weekend to check for rust, and it's pristine under there. A much better design than Miata from the same period, and the drain opening is huge in comparison.

It goes up and down every time, and takes exactly 10 seconds in both directions. I just ran out and looked at the glass window for telltale marks, and Temper Tech was written on it. Maybe someone has an original top...??? My only fear is lack of parts for the frame, and the high price of the frame and weather stripping!!!


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