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> Filling/shaving riser blocks?
post Nov 12, 2013 - 2:57 PM
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PegGTS



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Just wondering what the easiest way of removing the letters on the riser block replicas is. Filling in the letters with bondo/body filler? Or is it possible to sand them all the way down? Anybody know how to go about this?


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post Nov 13, 2013 - 11:13 AM
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jordisonjr



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Sanding it all the way down wont work. Your riser blocks would be smaller that the spoiler then.
Best bet would be to fill it, or if you're lazy, buy the replica ones that don't have the engraving on them.


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post Nov 13, 2013 - 11:33 AM
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The_enD



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How deep is the lettering?


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post Nov 13, 2013 - 12:43 PM
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PegGTS



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QUOTE (The_enD @ Nov 13, 2013 - 10:33 AM) *
How deep is the lettering?

Not very deep at all. Not sure if you can see in this picture but not more than a few millimeters.



This post has been edited by PegGTS: Nov 13, 2013 - 12:45 PM


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post Nov 13, 2013 - 12:56 PM
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The_enD



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Fiberglass bondo(contains actual fiberglass for more strength) then normal bondo. I wouldn't trust it to be just bondo and that thick.


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post Nov 13, 2013 - 1:03 PM
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PegGTS



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QUOTE (The_enD @ Nov 13, 2013 - 11:56 AM) *
Fiberglass bondo(contains actual fiberglass for more strength) then normal bondo. I wouldn't trust it to be just bondo and that thick.

Alright thanks. I've never worked with bondo so this should be interesting tongue.gif


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post Nov 13, 2013 - 1:18 PM
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The_enD



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Watch some videos, ask a friend who works in the same field.

Try not to fill the hole, but rather make an island around it and slowly try to smooth everything out. Looks like you will be adding bondo to the whole "face".
Start with smaller batches so you don't waste it when it dries up, it happens pretty fast depending on temperature.
Look for a good brand too, something already tested and know for quality.

When you start sanding, there is a slight layer of wax or whatever on top, that thing gets your sand paper clogged up. Maybe buy a mesh type sandpaper and take off the layer, then proceed with normal one.


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post Nov 13, 2013 - 2:05 PM
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PegGTS



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QUOTE (The_enD @ Nov 13, 2013 - 12:18 PM) *
Watch some videos, ask a friend who works in the same field.

Try not to fill the hole, but rather make an island around it and slowly try to smooth everything out. Looks like you will be adding bondo to the whole "face".
Start with smaller batches so you don't waste it when it dries up, it happens pretty fast depending on temperature.
Look for a good brand too, something already tested and know for quality.

When you start sanding, there is a slight layer of wax or whatever on top, that thing gets your sand paper clogged up. Maybe buy a mesh type sandpaper and take off the layer, then proceed with normal one.

Thanks, I'll look into it smile.gif


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post Nov 14, 2013 - 6:24 PM
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underground_desi...



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QUOTE (The_enD @ Nov 13, 2013 - 2:18 PM) *
Watch some videos, ask a friend who works in the same field.

Try not to fill the hole, but rather make an island around it and slowly try to smooth everything out. Looks like you will be adding bondo to the whole "face".
Start with smaller batches so you don't waste it when it dries up, it happens pretty fast depending on temperature.
Look for a good brand too, something already tested and know for quality.

When you start sanding, there is a slight layer of wax or whatever on top, that thing gets your sand paper clogged up. Maybe buy a mesh type sandpaper and take off the layer, then proceed with normal one.


this is it.
thumbsup.gif
post Nov 14, 2013 - 9:39 PM
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Box



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Odds are the blocks are fiberglass, so that's what I'd use. That or just turn your car into a GT-Four then you won't have to change them. tongue.gif


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post Nov 14, 2013 - 10:32 PM
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PegGTS



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QUOTE (Box @ Nov 14, 2013 - 8:39 PM) *
Odds are the blocks are fiberglass, so that's what I'd use. That or just turn your car into a GT-Four then you won't have to change them. tongue.gif

Yup they're fiberglass. For some reason I feel like filling the letters might be cheaper than a GT-Four conversion tongue.gif


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post Nov 14, 2013 - 11:57 PM
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The_enD



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I forgot, make sure to take off the clear coat, otherwise the bondo won't stick. Just scratch the shet out of it.


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post Nov 15, 2013 - 1:44 AM
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PegGTS



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QUOTE (The_enD @ Nov 13, 2013 - 11:56 AM) *
Fiberglass bondo(contains actual fiberglass for more strength) then normal bondo. I wouldn't trust it to be just bondo and that thick.

So I should use fiberglass bondo and after that use regular bondo? Or just the fiberglass bondo?

Is this what I would be looking for?
http://bondo.com/products/fiberglass/bondo...-resin-402.html

This post has been edited by PegGTS: Nov 15, 2013 - 1:45 AM


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post Nov 15, 2013 - 12:34 PM
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The_enD



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You've given a link to resin. wink.gif So the answer is No. Ask for bondo that contains small parts of fiberglass inside it.

You should use both, fiberglass bondo will have imperfections after sanding, which you will then fill up with the normal bondo.


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post Nov 15, 2013 - 3:27 PM
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PegGTS



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QUOTE (The_enD @ Nov 15, 2013 - 11:34 AM) *
You've given a link to resin. wink.gif So the answer is No. Ask for bondo that contains small parts of fiberglass inside it.

You should use both, fiberglass bondo will have imperfections after sanding, which you will then fill up with the normal bondo.

Alright so, just to get this straight haha:

1) Sand it down to get the clear coat off
2) Fiberglass bondo
3) Sand down with mesh sandpaper first then with normal sandpaper
4) Regular bondo
5) Sand down again (Do I need to use mesh sandpaper first again?)
6) Then they are ready for primer and paint? Or am I missing something important lol


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post Nov 15, 2013 - 5:30 PM
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The_enD



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Mesh sand no matter the bondo type.
You should sand with lower then higher grit to prep it for primer and paint.

80 at the start to shape up everything, then 400 and primer.
Depending on the cure time for the primer you can start with water sanding afterwards.
800, 1200, 1600 for water sanding.
Then just paint and clear coat.


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post Nov 15, 2013 - 6:01 PM
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PegGTS



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QUOTE (The_enD @ Nov 15, 2013 - 4:30 PM) *
Mesh sand no matter the bondo type.
You should sand with lower then higher grit to prep it for primer and paint.

80 at the start to shape up everything, then 400 and primer.
Depending on the cure time for the primer you can start with water sanding afterwards.
800, 1200, 1600 for water sanding.
Then just paint and clear coat.

Awesome, thanks so much! thumbsup.gif


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