88 Alltrac Options

[mkernz22]

Figure I would start this here instead of post more crap in my thread.

As some of you know, I picked up an ST165 Alltrac yesterday.
Yes, I got it for an absolute steal because the guy thought it was seized.
His story: I was pulling into my apartment complex, the engine shut off, and the wheels locked up.
I thought: Okay, doesn't really sound like it seized up...
So I get the car back to my house start charging the battery for a bit and just try cranking it. It turned over slightly because of the dead battery. Kept charging it and about 3 hours later, and after 1 slight catch and die, it starts up just fine. No knocking, no squealing except for the alt belt, sounded amazing, but it kept stalling out. So I gave it gas and held it at 1k rpm's and it would hold there fine on it's own. If I revved it up it would come down, drop below 1k to about 500 and would stall. I figured it had to be vac related cause it was getting everything else.
He told me he had replaced this "coolant" hose on the back side of the engine because it was leaking. The piece he replaced it with was way too long and had 2 kinks in it. Not really that great flowing for coolant. I looked at it more to see where it went, and well I'll be damned, it went to the IAC. No****ingwonder why the car kept stalling out. It wasn't receiving the correct vac at low rpm's. :facepalm: x1,000,000. and this kid is going to New England tech too. So help me god I hope he gets some common sense and learns more.

Now for a list of the mods done to it.
From the PO before this guy:
-Rear poly bushings on all the control arms, don't think he touched the subframe or rear diff, but will check on that
-MR2 rear struts / cut front springs (oh well)
-ST185 front calipers
-CT26 was sent out to a shop and trimmed. Talked to the guy and he said it might be a 60 trim now.
-Exhaust / Water / Oil temp gauges
-Boost gauge (stock still works too)
-HKS Electronic Boost Controller
-Blitz Turbo Timer
-St205 transmission and rear differential. Both are confirmed now.
-gForce ECU chip - semi confirmed, still have to open and check.
-Stupid f*cking hood pins. They're the flushish locking ones. Just need to buy new ones since I don't have the key or get a new hood.
-3" Downpipe to 3" straight exhaust to a Megan Racing muffler.
-JDM block / US head / EGR delete
-ST162 Cams

From the guy I bought it off of:
-Rebuilt bottom end; new pistons, rings, bearings, 1.6 or 1.8mm metal head gasket, ARP headstuds

Photos:








^My cluster**** of a wiring mess I need to clean up and redo. Definitely need some plugs in there...



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 18, 2014 - 11:22 AM

[OrangeCelica95]

I love those old alltracs. Good buy!

[SwissFerdi]

Nice. How much is a steal, out of curiosity?

[richee3]

That's an awesome buy, Mike! I'm jealous!

[mkernz22]

Nice. How much is a steal, out of curiosity?

Erm, $750.

And the list is updated a little after talking to the PO before the guy I bought it off of.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 9, 2014 - 7:37 PM

[njccmd2002]

damn. nice... you have the missing parts?

[mkernz22]

damn. nice... you have the missing parts?

I don't have a privacy cover for the hatch, but I tore into the center console today, then took pictures afterward.
Sadly, I had to toss the rear seats. The foam was sh!t and the leather was completely shot. I could save them to get reupholstered, but I don't know...

I'm also trying to acquire another car of the guy I bought it from for cheap, and the PO who did the majority of the work has a bunch of stuff laying around still. So he's going to get it altogether and just give it to me. I just have to pick it all up and it's over 2 hours away. I mean free parts, it's worth it.

[HaysoosKreesto]

I figured it had to be vac related cause it was getting everything else.
He told me he had replaced this "coolant" hose on the back side of the engine because it was leaking. The piece he replaced it with was way too long and had 2 kinks in it. Not really that great flowing for coolant. I looked at it more to see where it went, and well I'll be damned, it went to the IAC. No****ingwonder why the car kept stalling out. It wasn't receiving the correct vac at low rpm's. :facepalm: x1,000,000. and this kid is going to New England tech too. So help me god I hope he gets some common sense and learns more.

LMAO!

Awesome on the deal though, sounds like a really fun project and free parts are always cool too

[mkernz22]

So I cleaned up some wiring, took out the 2 gauges on the pillar because the exhaust temp sensor is broken and I realized I had the HKS electronic boost controller, blitz turbo timer, and a boost gauge hooked up. Now if you don't know, all 3 measure boost and they're all in KPA also known as Bar. Now there's really no point to having 3 and since I need the TT and the boost controller, the gauge got pulled and will go in my 6th gen once I swap it.

Also, I installed an st205 OEM oil catch because that thing tosses out a decent amount of oil. Not a ton, but you know how they are.
To note, don't ever vent it to atmosphere. It'll blow blue smoke from time to time..

I still need to hook up the boost controller because I have the gforce ecu chip and it doesn't hit the 12 psi fuel cut so I accidentally hit 1 bar (14.5 psi). That needs to get turned down to 8 psi cause the engine is only 350 miles into the break in period...

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 12, 2014 - 6:25 PM

[mkernz22]

AYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!
It's gotta gforce chip in it
Kind of explains why it was boosting to 1 bar without a boost controller hooked up.



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 15, 2014 - 9:37 PM

[jesse09]

wat the heck! that is a great deal!

Thats an awesome alltrac

[mkernz22]

Bought some parts for the future brake upgrades. Only thing that'll be coming for a bit other than regular maintenance. Need to finish getting parts for the gen2 swap into my car during the spring / summer.

[Smaay]

welcome to the All-Trac club. sounds like you got a pretty good deal.

[mkernz22]

welcome to the All-Trac club. sounds like you got a pretty good deal.

Thanks! and I definitely got a lot more than I first anticipated.


Brackets for the front brake upgrade are on the way.
I'll probably get the LS430 calipers and '05 STI rotors at some point over the winter.

The best thing about the bracket kit is that everything bolts right on and it comes with a hubcentric ring for the rotors.
I still have to look into the rear brake upgrade, but it's most likely going to be ST205 calipers and rotors since they're bolt on.

Definitely doing an ABS delete cause the light is on and I don't feel like taking the time to fix it.
May or may not install a hand brake for the rear lines. There's a single running to the back and it gets split in the ABS module so theoretically I could put it inline before I split them off.
That all depends on how I want to go about doing the car.

Plans right now are to tidy up the engine bay, redo vac lines, wrap the W2A cooler, figure out the wiring mess near the water neck and find the oil pressure wire... and some other odds and ends.
As much as I want to put money into the motor, I can't. It already has some upgrades done to it, which will suffice for the time being, but my main focus is going to be the suspension, brakes, and exterior work.
What I will most likely end up doing in a couple years is swap in a 4th gen. From reading up, it seems like a better platform to start on and to make power with, but we'll see how things go.

[Box]

Why can't I ever find good deals like this? Also it's funny how much the interior mimics the Supra's.

[mkernz22]

Why can't I ever find good deals like this? Also it's funny how much the interior mimics the Supra's.

You will eventually. I never do so something like this is rare for me. If you also look at the alltrac Camry prime did, the interior is literally the same.

[Box]

I saw where the dash is kind of similar, and of course it seems like every Toyota uses the same gauges and buttons.

[mkernz22]

Brackets came in for the brakes came in

In other news, the car hit 19.8psi / 1.37 bar. Really didn't mean to so I'm definitely setting up the EBC tomorrow and turning it down to 12psi..
But let me tell you, holy FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU did that thing throw me back into the seat.

Need to get a wideband asap to see what the AFR is at. I have a feeling the injectors are being pushed close to their limit.

[mkernz22]

Bought some 550cc 89-91 RX7 Turbo injectors off eBay. Suppose to have only 32k miles on them so they should be good for a long time.
Going to clean them once they come in the mail.

I was thinking about going with a SAFC to control the fuel, and I still may do that because I don't have any tuning experience, but I'm really leaning toward a DIYPNP w/ MS2 cause it's an ems and not a piggyback.

[mkernz22]

Well I've come to the terms that this car isn't something to be half-a$$ed. If you all have been following Nial's thread for his restoration, I'm going to be following a very similar path.
You may ask why, and I'm telling you right now, it's because I've always wanted to fully restore a car and I just happen to end up with this one.

By summer's end, I'm hoping to have the car fully disassembled, paint stripped, seam sealed, rust removed, completely undercoated, and hopefully in primer. At the very least, it'll be down to a shell.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Mar 11, 2015 - 7:14 PM

[HaysoosKreesto]

Well I've come to the terms that this car isn't something to be half-a$$ed. If you all have been following Nial's thread for his restoration, I'm going to be following a very similar path.
You may ask why, and I'm telling you right now, it's because I've always wanted to fully restore a car and I just happen to end up with this one.

By summer's end, I'm hoping to have the car fully disassembled, paint stripped, seam sealed, rust removed, completely undercoated, and hopefully in primer. At the very least, it'll be down to a shell.

These are exciting words

[cheela]

At least you're in a better place to start than I am with mine. Good luck.


This post has been edited by cheela: Mar 17, 2015 - 8:25 PM

[Culpable04]

that's a really nice ST185, congrats

the aftermarket hoodlatch while overkill for a stock hood, they are really nice, I have them on my hood ( Carbon Fiber hood ) I think you can get key replacements too, but have to order them through your Aerocatch dealer ( assuming they are real Aerocatch ones )


Aerocatch

MA distribuitor

[mkernz22]

Thanks guys, I appreciate it! I'm going to get new aftermarket latches for it. I doubt it'll fly off, but #becauseracecar


Once I sell off most of the parts from my 6gc at the CSP meet, and other stuff on the forum, I'm going to be picking up another ST165 from the guy I got this one from. It'll be around July when I get it. Has a blown engine, no turbo or exhaust so basically a rolling shell. At that point I'll be deciding on which one I'm going to keep and which I'm going to sell.

With the one I have, there's some minor front end damage. It's just the radiator support, but still sort of sucks because things won't line up perfectly. Also, some minor surface rust developing in the rockers from the quarter window seals being gone I'm not sure how that is on the other car, probably the same, so either way I might have to cut them out, clean them up and weld them back in.

The thing about this shell is that it has poly bushings, ST205 drivetrain, drives and everything. If I keep this one, then I'll be putting swapping out the interior from the one I buy because it's black. Black > blue. Then I'll end up selling the other one as a rolling shell, without wheels cause I'm keep the GTS ones . If no one buys it, highly unlikely, then I'll be cutting it up for spare parts because these are really rare and I need as much as I can get.

[mkernz22]

Got the other one last week, came with some goodies as well

GTS wheels, whiteline rear sway bar and endlinks, Gen3 W/A cooler, Momo steering wheel, and literally just so much more stuff.
I'll get some more pictures of stuff as I start to tear it apart.



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 13, 2015 - 9:05 PM

[Box]

Camo tie-strap holding the liftback down?

[mkernz22]

Camo tie-strap holding the liftback down?

Cheapest set at home depot that they had in stock.
There was an orange set, but didn't have the ratchet part included for some reason?

[Box]

Whatever helps you sleep at night.

That's ok I'm more concerned with figuring out the red car at the moment.

[mkernz22]

Interior went from this:


To this:


Just couldn't stand the blue, especially on a blue car. It's just too much and I think it breaks it up nicely.
The carpet will be black as well, just need to get it cleaned.

Well I should say that everything will be coming back out once it's in, just need to see what I have with the black pieces and what of the blue needs to become black. I will be spray all the plastic panels over to freshen it all up since the black is a bit faded. That'll be way down the road though.


First things first, need to get the other car disassembled. You'll probably think I'm running a chop shop by the time I'm done with it.
I'll post pictures, but I'm getting about 5 or 6 spot welder cutting tools from harbor freight to get some experience on the parts car
Then once that thing is apart, I'll start taking off some of the panels on the project car. I need to so that I can tackle the rust inside the quarter panels and the rockers. Hopefully that'll be it, but I'll find out as I go along.

It's looking like a Nial build, but I'm not going down to getting all the bolts and stuff zinc plated. Trying to keep costs to a minimum
I'll keep posting updates as I strip down the other car.

[Box]

Wooo!!!! Yeah, blue and red interior weren't a good idea in the 50's and 60's much less any time past then... Grey or black is my preference. Oh yes, let us not forget puke green interior...

[Bitter]

Can add 'stripper' to your resume.

[mkernz22]

Can add 'stripper' to your resume.

I probably should



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 13, 2015 - 9:02 PM

[mkernz22]

Hey! So it's been a while...

This is what eventually happened to the parts car. Would have loved to cut the whole thing apart and save all of it if... Only if I had my own place..


Haven't done a whole bunch with it lately cause my daily has been a priority.
I think I finally addressed my semi overheating issue. The thermostat seemed corroded (right one) when I took it out, the turbo coolant return line had a lot of FIPG clogging it up as well as that line had a nice dent in it so both of those really restricted the coolant to pass through it.



Didn't have a gasket for the outlet so I had to put FIPG back on there, but more carefully this time so it doesn't clog it.
Hopefully getting everything back together in the next week to see how it does after replacing these parts.

I also went to figure out the aftermarket temperature gauge wiring and realized they had it wired to a temp switch and not a temp sensor, at least that's what I believe. So I wired it into the temp sensor that the stock gauge gets signal from, as well as found out that the oil pressure wire was plugged into the temp sensor and nothing was plugged into the oil pressure sensor (Found the temperature wire when I was digging around). That would explain why the oil pressure gauge would always max out when warmed up and why the temp gauge never worked. Hopefully, that is all fixed now. We shall see

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 13, 2015 - 9:03 PM

[mkernz22]

Going to be taking the car out for a drive tomorrow to see how everything is holding up and to find out if my issues are solved.
Got distracted from doing school work today and ended up putting the front end back together. I've had it apart for more than half a year so it's nice to have it back together.
Now to put the side extension back on and the lower grille between the fog lights.



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Oct 20, 2015 - 8:14 PM

[mkernz22]

Skirts are back on.

Almost fixed the coolant issue, well the overheating is gone now so the new t-stat must have done it.
Steam was coming from under the W2A cooler, took that off and found the coolant line for the throttle body was leaking because the clamp wasn't fully tightened...
Put some heat deflection tape under the W2A while I was at it.
Then, I just have to use Teflon tape on the radiator drain plug because the FIPG melted away and caused it to slightly leak again. Easy fix though.

Otherwise, she's doing pretty good and pulling nicely. At a steady 12psi for now.
http://vid156.photobucket.com/albums/t13/m...zpscfvx002a.mp4

[Box]

Just in time for Winter shenanigans.

[mkernz22]

Just in time for Winter shenanigans.

She's not really going to be outside that much. Maybe a few times at night during some snow storms hooning around the neighborhood, but otherwise she'll be in the garage.
Probably going to start going through the interior wiring over the winter and pulling out a lot of the systems that I won't be using, like the ABS, W2A pump (on it's own switch), A/C (debating), and some of the audio stuff.

[mkernz22]

Purchased some JDM post face side vents for her. Was looking for some preface black ones, but the lines will match up better since I have post face tails

Picture as an example

[mkernz22]

So vents should be here today and I also bought a euro plate holder cause it was cheap.

Still having an issue with the coolant system cause it likes to boil and you can really hear it once the car is turned off. At this point I believe it's the radiator so I will be replacing it with an OEM one that I have. At the same time, I'll be wrapping the DP this winter, removing the A/C components, wiring the OEM fan and an aftermarket fan to run full time since I don't believe the oem one is kicking in at all. Will be getting hood spacers as well as new aero lock thingies for the hood. Last, but not least, I will hopefully get around to changing out the radiator support and welding the good one in there.

Other than that, I may change out the BOV to one of the Blitz ones I have to make sure it works.
Resealing the PS quarter window, hatch, and possibly the windshield.
Come the spring, I'll start doing over the seam seals on the interior.

Pictures to come as I get stuff done.

[mkernz22]

Finally got my hands on one of these. So hard to find...
And I also bought one, about a month or two ago, that came off a Corolla that says "toyota alltrac", but doesn't fit properly on the front grille.


Stupid shenanigans


Next thing I'm getting is an underbrace for the front.
Will be swapping the radiator out this week, or today.

[mkernz22]

Oh and this too. I think it makes the a$$ look wider

Euro plate holder vs USDM.

[Malek]

Does make it look wider!

Looking good man!

[Batman722]

I'm a fan of the euro plate holder.

[njccmd2002]

looks great

[cheela]

it's coming together real nice.

[njccmd2002]

i envy you, in a good way, love the car

[mkernz22]

i envy you, in a good way, love the car

Thank you, I do appreciate it!


Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered. It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them, for the peace of mind cause I'm getting sick of this whole coolant BS and I want it all out of the way in one shot. That's my main issue. The coolant bubbling from air getting in and it slightly overheating. It's the main thing that's holding me back from being able to drive it. Otherwise, it's fairly fine besides the massive amounts of internal and external body work I want to do to her.

...and tires. Need tires too. and new aero catch locks.

Just too much and too little money right now

[GMan]

Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered.
It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them,

Just too much and too little money right now

Why pull the AC ? It is Cool to have in the summer, and even in the winter it can defrost the windshield.
Pulling the AC is tricky in a ST165, The AC fan controller under the dash controls BOTH the AC and radiator fan.
I think one or both will run constant if you pull stuff. Been a while since I looked at the electrical manual.
The relays and sensors are a nightmare to figure out. There is a water temp sensor in the radiator, not a
switch. Even a Toyota tech knew That one.

Coolant leaks are usually easy to find ? Hope yours is cheap to fix.

Best of luck on the project. I still miss my ST165, long sold now. :-(
But they are a project to keep on the road now.

Hope your budget is pretty Big.

Regards

[mkernz22]

Little update, almost done pulling the A/C system. Need to weigh it all up once out to document the weight I shaved.

Car has been in my garage for a week or so now and I realized that it's leaking coolant, a good amount cause the floor is covered.
It's somewhere around the water neck area so I'm going to have to tear that area apart now and go over every line, and re-clamp or replace them,

Just too much and too little money right now

Why pull the AC ? It is Cool to have in the summer, and even in the winter it can defrost the windshield.
Pulling the AC is tricky in a ST165, The AC fan controller under the dash controls BOTH the AC and radiator fan.
I think one or both will run constant if you pull stuff. Been a while since I looked at the electrical manual.
The relays and sensors are a nightmare to figure out. There is a water temp sensor in the radiator, not a
switch. Even a Toyota tech knew That one.

Coolant leaks are usually easy to find ? Hope yours is cheap to fix.

Best of luck on the project. I still miss my ST165, long sold now. :-(
But they are a project to keep on the road now.

Hope your budget is pretty Big.

Regards

Becauseracecar. That's why.

I don't even use A/C in my daily driver during the summer. I never had it after I had gotten into an accident with my old 6th gen so I got used to not having it for 5ish years. Now, I barely use it on my new one.
Regardless, it's a decent weight savings.

I only have one radiator fan on the front side, which doesn't turn on. The slim fan on the engine side that the PO installed was warped so it drew a ton of power and I tossed it. I'm going to hard wire the fans in there so they're hooked up to a relay with a toggle switch, that way I have control over them. One per switch/relay.

As for the coolant leak, I think it's just a hose that either needs to be replaced or a clamp that needs tightening. It's just under the intake and W2A coolant lines so it'll take a bit of time to get the stuff out to access it.

[Bitter]

Why not just use the OEM fan switch to flip the relay to run both fans? You can still wire an over-ride switch if you want to run them manually. There should be a switch in or near the thermostat housing, single wire that ground when hot (I think). There's a 2 wire for the computer as well. Might be two single wire, one switch and one thermistor for the gauge. Not 100% on an 88.

[mkernz22]

Why not just use the OEM fan switch to flip the relay to run both fans? You can still wire an over-ride switch if you want to run them manually. There should be a switch in or near the thermostat housing, single wire that ground when hot (I think). There's a 2 wire for the computer as well. Might be two single wire, one switch and one thermistor for the gauge. Not 100% on an 88.

There's a two wire sensor that's in the radiator. Other than that, there's nothing by the thermostat housing.

The OEM fan doesn't turn on at all though. That's one of my other issues and why I want to wire my own relays with a switch.
This was 3 other people's project and I'm the one that's going through and figuring this stuff out now.



Little update.
There also has been oil soaking through one of the rubber lines after the catch can, or at least I think, because nothing else is coated with it.
Got the radiator out today, there's oil on the block under the weird oil cooler the gen1 has so I have to pull the turbo and get all new crush washers for the cooler bolts and new gaskets for the turbo lines.
There's just so much stupid little stuff to do to try and get no leaks. I may just tear down most of the bay and put everything back together. It's the only way that I can see myself doing it right and making sure everything is 100% good to go.
ugh..
Least I have time. That I'm thankful for. Money, not so much.

[Bitter]

Ok, I was thinking of the later engines and the A series. The two wire switch in the radiator I think is a temp switch. Put a meter across it and toss it in boiling water, it should close around 190-200F. You can use that to ground the relay to turn the fans on with your own wiring. Use a good water proof relay and socket though! Something like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-sets-Waterproof-...PwAAOSw~gRVzdiw

You can get them with the wires already on for a couple dollars more.

[mkernz22]

Ok, I was thinking of the later engines and the A series. The two wire switch in the radiator I think is a temp switch. Put a meter across it and toss it in boiling water, it should close around 190-200F. You can use that to ground the relay to turn the fans on with your own wiring. Use a good water proof relay and socket though! Something like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-sets-Waterproof-...PwAAOSw~gRVzdiw

You can get them with the wires already on for a couple dollars more.

That's actually not a bad idea, and I'll probably get a few with the wires already on since it saves me time with having to put the whole thing together.
I'm most likely going to make a switch panel below the radio, if I keep the radio. I already have the IC pump on it's own relay and switch so I might as well make a master panel.

[Bitter]

Heck, you could put a bung with a sensor in the intake tract post core and have that run the IC pump through a relay or PWM. If you can't tell, I like automation. Just need to know how many amps the pump pulls then you can pick a controller with settings to vary the pump flow based on air intake temp or a simple off/on controller to turn the pump on at XX temp and off at XX temp. And of course, you can still have full manual control too with a simple toggle.

[mkernz22]

Yeahh...that's too much work for now lol
Toggle switch is fine for the time being.

Found the coolant leak, it was actually a line from the W2A system, which I'm reworking anyway because I have a ST205 heat exchanger to put on it.
Just a mock for now, but it fits with the stock fogs. Just have to move the power steering cooler, also have to mount up the transmission cooler I have, and eventually get an oil cooler.
The lines will be a little funky for it, but I can make it work. Luckily I have one of the OEM lines for this HE and it has a nice 90 degree bend in it
As you can see in the pictures, I need to make some custom brackets for it, but it does line up perfect with the two holes the A/C condenser bolted it. The bottom mounts on it need a custom bent bracket, which shouldn't be too hard to create.






This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 3, 2016 - 12:07 AM

[mkernz22]

Woo, I just got some more parts thanks to Dustin and Manny!

-ST205 W2A Pump
-ST205 Power steering cooler
-Another ST205 transmission cooler, bit better condition than the other one I have
-Last, but not least, a bunch of fittings and an oil filter relocation kit.

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow.

Just need to swap my radiator support, figure out the brackets, and get a few more fittings before I can start putting it all back together.
The hardest part is really just going to be figuring out the brackets and the expensive part is all those damn fittings..

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 10, 2016 - 12:21 AM

[mkernz22]

Well I f*cked up the 205 power steering cooler while trying to bend it with a hand held bender. It slipped and kinked one of the lines so I might be tossing that out now, unless I cut it down to after the kinks. Does it matter if the pipe has that lip on it? I'm just not sure if it'll leak or not without it.

Sort of came up with a way to mount the 205 HE. Cut the bottom brackets off, flipped it, and the two top brackets line up perfectly with the outer fog light mounts. Going to upgrade to aftermarket fogs cause both of my oem sets are pretty rough.. I'll just make a bracket off the old bracket to mount whatever fog lights I get.

Now comes the challenge of plumbing it all together.



Mock mount for the transmission cooler, still not exactly sure where I'm going to put it.


Also thinking about getting an oil cooler in there too, but that's the last of my worries.
W2A first, then PS cooler, trans cooler, and finally oil cooler.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 26, 2016 - 2:33 PM

[Box]

Obviously Toyota put on a trans cooler for a reason, but I'd think an engine oil cooler would be more beneficial(especially being turbocharged) over a cooler for a manual transmission?

[mkernz22]

Obviously Toyota put on a trans cooler for a reason, but I'd think an engine oil cooler would be more beneficial(especially being turbocharged) over a cooler for a manual transmission?

Yeaaahhh, but its the most expensive part of it so I'm saving it till last. **Notice how I said last of my worries instead of least
It might end up being very last cause I have to pull the turbo, replace the external gaskets on it, run a new braided feed and return line, and get new crush washers on the engine oil cooler. There's oil leaking somewhere near there on the block :angry:

Close to being done with the W2A setup though

[Box]

Only a letter off.

[mkernz22]

So I bought $100 in fittings from Summit, which I can now finish the transmission cooler and the power steering cooler. Just need to make mounting brackets.

And I bought a shift light from Mike (Tigawoods)... which I don't really need yet, but ayyyy, why not? Cause I will need it once I start getting into racing.

[mkernz22]

$250 in parts right there...


and some more mock up. Just have to get some metal from Home Depot to make the brackets, which should be really simple at this point.

[mkernz22]

Oil cooler is on the way.
Need to mock it up once it gets here so I know which fittings I'll need for it.

Permanent spot for the power steering and transmission coolers:

[mkernz22]

So good news and bad news.

Good news first.
Got the oil cooler in today and mocked it up. Going to have to notch the under side of the hood otherwise the 150 degree fittings will hit it. Thought I had more clearance and didn't think the fittings would sit as high as they do, but oh well. Everything will work out once I get it all in.


And for the bad news.
Went to take the starter off to remove the old hard lines for the W2A system and found this. There's a nice hole in it as well as the metal being gouged.


Upon further inspection, the flywheel and pressure plate look the same way


There's also oil leaking from the underside of the transmission which I'm assuming is from the rear main. I have to remove the access cover to see what's going on inside the bell housing, but regardless, I'm going to have to drop the engine and transmission once it warms up. Freshen up the engine with new gaskets all around, do all the timing stuff, replace the flywheel and clutch, degrease the transmission, new axle seals, and the whole nine f*cking yards.

And I thought I was going to be able to drive her this summer...

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Mar 10, 2016 - 3:03 PM

[Box]

On the plus side once it's done you won't have to worry about anything at least. I feel for you, it's like one step forward only to get pushed down back a few. Hopefully you won't run into any more issues.

[njccmd2002]

250 in just an fittings. Your problem is summit racing. too expensive.

check out prime offers in amazon, and www.anplumbing.com 3 bucks saving on an item may be worth it.

[mkernz22]

250 in just an fittings. Your problem is summit racing. too expensive.

check out prime offers in amazon, and www.anplumbing.com 3 bucks saving on an item may be worth it.

No, those fittings in the picture were ~$100. There's also the progressive shift light, in the top right corner, that I bought from Mike which was ~$140 (https://ecliptech.com.au/shift-i/)

On the plus side once it's done you won't have to worry about anything at least. I feel for you, it's like one step forward only to get pushed down back a few. Hopefully you won't run into any more issues.

Well once this is all set and done, I'll have gone through just about everything on the car other than the engine internals and wiring harness, which the wiring is something I need to do since I have about 4 or 5 systems to pull.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Mar 10, 2016 - 7:30 PM

[mkernz22]

I'll update with some pictures in a day or two, but engine bay has started to clear out little by little.
Intake manifold is pulled, harness it out, water lines disconnected, and fuel rail is off.
Still have to take the power steering pump off the engine cause I don't feel like taking the lines apart.

Trying to have it prep'ed and ready to go for when I go to pull the engine and transmission.

Also, bought a stock engine side radiator fan as neither car came with one. Should fit fine on the stock radiator I currently have, hoping it'll squeeze if I upgrade the radiator.
Managed to get a hold of a side feed intake manifold. So once this all goes back together I'll be purchasing a different W2A cooler and mounting it over the transmission mount on the drivers side.
Which then I have to change the W2A setup because I don't have a tank.
Luckily, Mishimoto Motocross radiators mostly come with 3/4" inlet/outlets and they're small enough to fit my application. Which is a beautiful thing to find out. It'll pretty much go where the A/C condenser went, but only covering half the area.
Looking at something like this:


This post has been edited by mkernz22: Mar 16, 2016 - 11:10 PM

[mkernz22]

Haven't really done much in the past month because of school, buuuutt, the semester is almost over so summer will see a lot of progress

I do have a mr2 alternator bracket and crank pulley on the way, and soon to have a 3sge valve cover as it looks a little bit better than the current one.
But if you're going to ask why relocate the alternator to the back of the engine, here are my reasons:
-It'll be easier to install my oil filter relocation kit as I won't have a bracket and belt in the way
-It won't be near the DP and header so it'll be a bit cooler
-Most importantly, the gen1 heads are known for cracking around the alternator bracket mounts so I won't have to worry about the head cracking.

Also, I'll either be going with an MR2 electric PS pump or just no power steering.

[njccmd2002]

cool beans. Mr2 electric pump. I tought about that, and just turn it on on demand, so you dont run electrical juice all the time!!

[mkernz22]

cool beans. Mr2 electric pump. I tought about that, and just turn it on on demand, so you dont run electrical juice all the time!!

That's actually not a bad idea! It's probably possible, but it would be sweet if you could make a circuit board to have it turn on under X mph to assist at lower speeds and keep it off above that limit.

[Box]

Actually I bet you could by using something like an adjustable shift light tapped into the speedometer as a relay trigger, would have to wire it inverted so it'd stay on from standstill to wherever versus coming on past a certain point. At least that's where I'd start looking into doing such.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 17, 2016 - 1:46 PM

[mkernz22]

Actually I bet you could by using something like an adjustable shift light tapped into the speedometer as a relay trigger, would have to wire it inverted so it'd stay on from standstill to wherever versus coming on past a certain point. At least that's where I'd start looking into doing such.

Found it:
http://www.rx4speeding.com/Speed_Activated...2V_SAS_24V.html

So in theory, I would have to wire that to a 5-pin relay at the 85 position. The P/S pump would be wired at the 87a for the Normally Closed circuit, position 87 would be left empty for the Normally Open circuit, and 30 & 86 would be power & ground. So when the speed activated switch (SAS) turns on, once you reach X MPH, it would activate the relay thus changing the NC circuit to Open, and the NO circuit to closed, which would turn off the pump at that set speed. Drop down below that X limit, then the SAS turns off, the NC goes back to closed and NO goes back to open, thus turning the pump back on.

It would be a bit of an expensive setup for everything (PS pump and this switch), but it's kind of how I would like to do it.

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Apr 18, 2016 - 6:14 PM

[Bitter]

Why?
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showt...ehps-19505.html
Just feed it VSS and it'll do the rest on it's own. It's an integral unit.

[Box]

^There ya go, life made easier.

[mkernz22]

Why?
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showt...ehps-19505.html
Just feed it VSS and it'll do the rest on it's own. It's an integral unit.

^There ya go, life made easier.

Ha, well then. Makes things a million times easier.

[mkernz22]

Well it's been almost a year since I posted..

Bought some calipers for the BBBK setup and holy sh!t they are big. Came off a Lexus LS430
First image is the stock ST165 top mount as a size reference




Still need a lot of parts to finish that whole setup. 2004 Subaru STI DBA rotors, EBC redstuff pads for the front, and then 92-98 SC300 calipers and 06 legacy GT rotors for the rear (with machining of the hubs to fit). Going to be a $1000 project, but I want to focus on cleaning up the engine first before I really tackle that project...

[Bitter]

Looks similar to what comes on a Supra. Knowing how Toyota likes to parts-bin stuff, they probably are the same or roughly the same.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Apr 5, 2017 - 7:18 PM

[mkernz22]

Looks similar to what comes on a Supra. Knowing how Toyota likes to parts-bin stuff, they probably are the same or roughly the same.

Looking into the Supra caliper, they're actually a lot different. The supra one is a 2 piece design (not sure of the material) where as this one is one piece cast aluminum. This one is also a radial mount verse the Supra's standard mount. Not sure of the weight for the supra ones, but these are 12.5lbs fully loaded with the custom mounting bracket and bolts

[mkernz22]

I've decided to go with a FMIC instead of the W2A. I'm not sure if my HE will have a leak from a bad spot on the fins. Buying an Evo 8/9 IC will be cheaper than buying everything that I still need for the W2A setup. Will just need to clock the turbis, get a bracket for the WG, and get some piping and clamps. Still going to be a long time in the making cause I have to pull the engine and redo all the gaskets and seals on it Might pull the head and do the HG while I'm at it and make sure nothing needs to be decked. But if I do that, I might want to check everything else cause I don't really trust the kid that rebuilt it since he had mistaken the IACV line for a coolant line Hopefully this year I will be working on the car more since I'll be out of college in May (finally), hopefully working 2 or 3 jobs like crazy to pay for some of this, some trips, and some of my loans.
I also priced out everything for the BBK and it's probably going to be a $1k on that alone

[mkernz22]

This will probably arrive while I'm in Germany for a few days, but still can't wait
Most likely going to paint it black.



This post has been edited by mkernz22: May 8, 2017 - 12:07 PM

[Bitter]

Hello radiator heat soak

[mkernz22]

Hello radiator heat soak

I don't think it should be an issue since it's just like any other FMIC. It's a little big, but not as big as some of the cheap ones people buy.
I'm going to have it spaced out from the radiator and will make some ductwork to have air flow straight to the rad, and two pull fans should work well.

[mkernz22]

Finally some progress on this thing! This will be the year I get her back up and running, and she's 30 years old...
Have a lot to do though..

Cleaning up the engine harness. Pulled wires from a spare one to replace sections in the engine bay. Lots of cracked wires, broken terminals, and broken connectors... Also deleted a few systems that are not needed anymore.


Engine pulled and purchased an ST185 Whiteline strut bar. Also bought a rear whiteline for the ST165