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post Jun 5, 2004 - 8:29 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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when i start up my car it will rev up to 500 rpm then die. it keeps on doing this unless i give it some gas, well that used to work up until today, i have to keep it at 3k rpm for a few secs for it to idle at all (then it will idle at about 250 and the whole car will shake badly) , also iv been hearing a high pitch sound that has been gettin louder for a few weeks.... WHAT IS WRONG! the idle problem has been hapening since winter but just got worse this month. its almost unstartable now. PLEASE HELP ME!
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post Jun 5, 2004 - 8:35 PM
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Andason



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is your cel on?


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post Jun 5, 2004 - 8:37 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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is my car on right now?
post Jun 5, 2004 - 9:33 PM
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shid



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put higher octane gas in it, and don't rev til 3k; rev at 6.
post Jun 5, 2004 - 9:45 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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what do u mean dont rev til 3k rev at 6
post Jun 5, 2004 - 10:12 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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anyone else!!!!!!!!! this car can hardly work, and i need some help
post Jun 5, 2004 - 10:16 PM
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Snarfer

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Where is the high pitch sound coming from? It could be something as simple as a air leak in a vacumm lines or intake. It could also be a belt slipping, possibly the alternator belt, have you had to jump start your car?
post Jun 5, 2004 - 10:29 PM
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lagos



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my car has been doing the same thing for a while....im thinking that its the fuel filter.

for some reason, it helps to turn your AC on as you try starting the car. then just give it some gas and it should kick in.


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post Jun 5, 2004 - 10:51 PM
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hioctane

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your timing could be off
post Jun 5, 2004 - 11:27 PM
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YellowTwo



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I had that exact same problem for about 3 months. I still don't know for sure what it might have been, but it had to have been 1 of 3 things... or maybe a combination... who knows.

First I bought some STP fuel injector cleaner, because it says on the bottle that it helps "hard startups and rough idles." So I filled up the tank and put that in. After driving for a little while then starting it up later it seemed like it might have made a little bit of a difference, but it was really hard to tell. Then the next day I got a tune up. I drove it for a couple days after that and it didn't seem to be having as much trouble starting up, but the idle was still rough. Then I had to take it to get a new timing belt put on. That was about 3 days ago, and now it starts up really nicely and idles pretty well.

I do still get some hard startups, but not even close to as much as before. Plus I still haven't used the full tank that I put the STP in... so there's still more to go.

edit: It seems to just be getting better and better, so I think it's the STP that did it.

This post has been edited by 6gencelicasrule: Jun 5, 2004 - 11:30 PM
post Jun 5, 2004 - 11:36 PM
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3FingersCelica

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If you are going to get a fuel injector cleaner buy Techron, its the best you can get.
post Jun 5, 2004 - 11:36 PM
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spunky393

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what shid meant is if you do get the car started, you have to clear the engine out, it could be something as simple as that. So take it 6000, if not redline, it's like turning the leaf blower on high. That's all shid meant


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post Jun 5, 2004 - 11:37 PM
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hioctane

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check your timing on your timing belt
because it controls your idle....
post Jun 6, 2004 - 12:09 AM
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toyotaspeed_90

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is it tough to start? my mr2 was just doing the same thing.... the alt was dead and the battery couldn't keep the car running for very long....
post Jun 6, 2004 - 12:39 AM
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shid



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Thanks spunky, thats exactly what I meant.

Before, when this happens, it seems to stay there until I redline almost. If I revved it up to 3k, it'd hold for a bit, then die. Once I revved it to 6k, the problem would go away for a good long while.
post Jun 6, 2004 - 1:59 AM
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95STHATCH

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I bet it's a bad plug wire cause it's sounds like you're not firing on all cylinders. If it's dark, have somebody start your car and see if it sparks before it dies.
post Jun 6, 2004 - 3:26 AM
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check timing for sure, but it dose sould like the alternater but that woudl not cause the car to die, just not charge the battery and the sensors/stuff would lose power. you could have carbon build up on your spark plugs, like really bad bild up, that would kill the engien. i doubt that its a wire prob but its worth checking. try checking if its getting fuel, easy way to check fuel pump is to unplug the fuel line and put it in a bucket then try and start the car. worse case could be that you bent a valve a little and its messing it all up, or even the rod, just bending it a little would cause horrible shaking, and kill the motor, also it would run better the faster it spins cause it would flex into alingment with the force.

best advice i could give is tow it to a mechanic/pro i spent like 5 days testing stuff on my dead engine only to grind the clutch out, and realize the engien is beyond repair, and i half to wait 5 days more then i would have to get it back. frown.gif


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post Jun 6, 2004 - 7:31 AM
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DamDirtyApes

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thanks guys, ne ways i tried the stp injecter cleaner about 3 -4 weeks ago and thats when the problem got worse. i did exactly as the directions said. as i got more into the gas i had it got worse, i figured it would get better when most of the stp was out but its still gettin worse. as with the timing when i bought the car at 75000 miles we made them put a new timing belt in (its at 85000 now). they could of been grimey b@stards and not put a new one in.......
post Jun 6, 2004 - 4:48 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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i just put bosch platinum +4s in, it seems to be better but there is still a problem, a side note on those though, defintly worth the money. my car is much more responsive to changes in throttle now and smoother acceleration. even a bit more power. my old spark plugs were complete trash, maybe ill get a picture up, they were absolutely covered in carbon and one had alot of corrsosion. i plan on new air filter proberly k&n, gas filter, and proberly new spark plug wires and distrubutor thing. ne ways thanks for ur help so far guys
post Jun 6, 2004 - 5:05 PM
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Jeremy1210



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I had the same problem back in the day. It turned out it was my fuel filter had gone bad. Change that and it should help
post Jun 6, 2004 - 6:15 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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just tried starting it again, spark plugs didnt work
post Jun 7, 2004 - 11:48 AM
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aaronc222



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I had idle problems about a year ago. After taking it for a tune up(at the dealership) it still had the same rough idle.
My solution ended up being a fuel filter. I changed it out and the car was instantly back to it's old self.
post Jun 7, 2004 - 4:51 PM
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mikeh117



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I'm not a mechanic and don't even own a technical manual for my Celica so these answers might be completely off. Don't blame me if you try a repair based on one of my suggestions and it doesn't fix it wink.gif. However I can offer you some idea of what to look for to help diagnose the fault.

As it sounds like your engine is hunting for idle there are three specific areas that need to be investigated:

It might indicate that there is a problem with the idle control system who's job is to provide extra air to the engine when started from cold to regulate the idle speed. I don't know the specifics of the system used in Celica's but there are normally several components involved. You'll need to check with a mechanic as to which system is in the Celica (unless anyone knows?) but it will most likely be either a servo driven or an air controlled system, both of which have moving parts that can become clogged.

It is also possible that there is a problem with the fuel\air mix. This may be due to a clogged fuel filter or the O2 sensor may have a problem. The O2 sensor operates at very high temperatures and I have heard that failure is quite common on high mileage Celicas. Without a properly funtioning sensor the fuel\air mix is wrong and can cause the engine to either run very rich or lean. This is not something you can readily diagnose, but a good indicator would be to smell the exaust gasses and see if there is a strong petrol smell.

Finally this can be caused by a problem with the Catalytic Convertor. If its not connected or is damaged then this can also cause the fault, as the gasses can't escape. An emissions test will confirm if it has a problem.

All in all I would suggest taking it to a Toyota dealer and getting it looked at.
post Jun 8, 2004 - 1:35 PM
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Negative



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QUOTE (DamDirtyApes @ Jun 6, 2004 - 9:48 PM)
i just put bosch platinum +4s in, it seems to be better but there is still a problem, a side note on those though, defintly worth the money. my car is much more responsive to changes in throttle now and smoother acceleration. even a bit more power. my old spark plugs were complete trash, maybe ill get a picture up, they were absolutely covered in carbon and one had alot of corrsosion. i plan on new air filter proberly k&n, gas filter, and proberly new spark plug wires and distrubutor thing. ne ways thanks for ur help so far guys

Watch those +4's they can damage your pistons on some applications. They do work pretty good though - I used to use them on my 86' GTS until someone showed me what they did to pistons (again this is only on some applications).
I get the same if not better results and throttle response out of the NGK iridiums and I don't worry about them cause they are made by Denso who makes all of the Toyota and TRD plugs anyway.
Also I agree with aaronc222 - when my '95 GT was doing this same stuff it turned out to be the fuel filter. That plus new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and a injector cleaner service by a good shop will definetly kill this problem. I feel guilty if I don't do all of this every year at a minimum anyway - I usually do most of this twice a year but I race alot also. Also I can't stand for my idle to be even a little sh*tty and I'm very intune with my car and can feel every problem through the pedals.


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post Jun 8, 2004 - 7:40 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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where can i get nology wires, and how mcuh will they be , it turns out im gonna be needing new wires, rotor, cap, possibly new pulleys and belts, new air filter which i already ordered, and the fuel filter im trying to get in but is being a b!tch
post Jun 9, 2004 - 10:09 AM
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Negative



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You can get nology wires on nopi.com or quite a few other places. They're going to be expensive though. The NGK wires work really good and are only $41.00 on NGK.com.
As for the fuel filter - you really have to put some torque on the fittings to get them to seal right but don't bend the mounting flange.
After you do the stuff you mentioned your car is gonna run great. Don't forget to clean the injectors.


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post Jun 9, 2004 - 12:00 PM
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slipgun

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Is there seriously any reason to get anything other then stock for a stock engine? Arnt stock wires cheaper then that? Or are wires as overpriced on cars as everything else smile.gif
post Jun 9, 2004 - 3:09 PM
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Doge



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Don't get the nology wires Dirty. The extra "charge" is just a marketing ploy. Get the NGK wires...they are just as good if not better and alot cheaper. And don't think that I'm saying that cause I have the NGK's. I bought the Nologys and it just wasnt worth it. Having a ground on each plug wire is useless to us...but usefull to nology because they can charge and arm and a leg for them.
post Jun 9, 2004 - 3:11 PM
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Agreed.


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post Jun 9, 2004 - 6:35 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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thanks doge

this is what its looking like right now . tonight im talking to my uncle who is a mechanic, we are going to do the fuel filter and hes checking out my belts and pulleys, turns out im also gettin weird virbation and sound coming from that. its a new timinig belt 10k miles so its not that. and the water pump and fuel pump are possible problems that need looking into.

if there is something wrong with the pulleys and belts and all that good stuff where a repair would be over 500 dollars im gonna start looking into another car. as much as i love my car its not a standard and its no v8. iv got my eyes on mustang gt. smile.gif but we will see what happens. the mustang may own my car in a race but my car looks way better (even as a muscle car fan i have to admit that).

This post has been edited by DamDirtyApes: Jun 10, 2004 - 8:18 AM
post Jun 10, 2004 - 7:46 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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ok i just talked to a mechanic, he said most likely its sensors so i gotta bring it to a place and hook it up. besides the cold start issue he said its actully running perfectly. the egr valve is not the problem, it works fine. so ill be finding out soon.

o yea and to that post earlier about revving it up high to about 6k. i found out that is quite damaging to the engine from a cold start. there isnt enough time for the oil to move around and all that good stuff. so any one here with a simlier problem make sure u dont do , youl just be taking miles off the life of your engine
post Jun 10, 2004 - 8:00 PM
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spunky393

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we never said do it right when your engine is cold, that's just being a dumb***. Of course you should let it warm up a little bit, things like that is why peoples cars don't last, common brains.


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post Jun 11, 2004 - 6:15 PM
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DamDirtyApes

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for some reasen its not doing it or not nearly close to doing it at all today. it might of been my uncle.. he took a hammer to the egr vavle becuase we thought it might have been stuck.....

o yea got the k&n in today..... me likes alot! sounds better at higher rpm and gives a lil teeny bit of power.

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