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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 25, '04 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Hey guys,
I dropped my car yesterday and now I need some help. The car doesn't take bumps very well at all. But I expected it. I hear some rubbing in the back and assume I'm gonna need my fenders rolled. Is this a common thing to do with a drop? My front doesn't rub, however I hear a strectching sound with the steering wheel. I did the work myself and I didn't see any rubber whatsoever. I'm wondering if the old topcap and bottom mount of the spring have to adjust to the new spring? Again is this common? My stats for suspension are below. Front: Stock strut assembly (105k miles) KYB strut insert TEIN S-Spring 1.5" Dropped spring 19" x 8.5 rims on 225/35/19 Back: KYB strut assembly TEIN S-Spring 1" Dropped spring 19" x 8.5 rims on 245/35/19 Now aside from that - the car looks B-E-A-UTIFUL. The rear is soooo wide on 245 tires and dropped. Pictures below. My car is very dirty and I just took them so its night time. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 10, '03 From South Central Los Angeles Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I'm no expert with wheels. Actually, I don't know sh*t about wheels. But it kinda seems like it's a massive drop for those 19's.
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 9, '03 From St. Louis Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
wow, I knew you could fit 19" but with a 1.5" drop, I didn't think it possible
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 29, '03 From Hampton, VA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I'm probably totally wrong, but wouldn't you need a bigger drop for bigger wheels? The larger radius makes the monster-truck look even worse, right?
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '02 From Franklin/Nashville, TN Currently Offline Reputation: 16 (100%) ![]() |
you would need a larger drop to get the chasis to the ground, but, on the larger wheels, there isn't enough room between the top of the tire, and the bottom of the fender to drop the car all that much...so even with a drop, the car is still high, but, you can't do a big drop anyway, so it ends up being high off teh ground... -------------------- |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 25, '04 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
lol - no one answered my questions...
The drop is nice. Not too low, but low enough. I'm about 1" lower than stock. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 10, '03 From South Central Los Angeles Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
NO, that is not common.
I think that the reason you're having these problems is because 1.5 " drop does'nt work well with 19's. Now another thing that comes into play is how good your shocks are, cause if they'er bad, bumps feel like crap and the car bounces more and rubs on the tires. As for the Tein springs, I dont know much about them, bu you should find out what spring rates are on them. I might be talking out of my a**, so if I don't make any sense, someone please correct me. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 25, '04 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Shocks (struts) are brand new. I talked with my friend who's dropped cars before and he thinks its the NEW spring settling into the old rubber caps. I was told to give it a week. Any thoughts? Also, sphinx, you never meantioned which isn't common... the fenders or the strectching sound.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 10, '03 From South Central Los Angeles Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
neither are common
This post has been edited by sphinx: Aug 13, 2004 - 1:34 PM |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 9, '03 From Dayton, OH Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
man, those wheels are freakin huge! You are probably rubbing the inner fender lip in the rear. Just watch it scrape up your tires. Get some daytime pics.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 25, '04 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Found out whats up today.
The sound in back is my fender's lip like dan and I said eariler. Problem of course is the 2 layers of metal with the spot welds. I'm having my bodyshop guys cut at a cresant starting from the top of the mudflap and hitting its inward point at the peak of the well. At the same time, I'm going to be spraying the car with water to keep the heat transfer underneath the well lip. It should be done on wednesday and I'll take pictures then. Problem in front. The stretching noise I figured out must be the upper bushing and bearings of the old strut. I'm going to order OEM stuff today and install later. I'm not rubbing my tire on anything. I have full 360^ turning ability. My suspension is perfect. I have the maximum allowed rim size, with maximum allowed offset, with maximum allowed drop in both front and back. My mechanics were impressed with it. And overall, so am I. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 5, '03 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
You may have full turn when the car isn't in motion, but get the thing moving, you'll probably rub regardless. If you wanna keep the 19's, you should go with a stiffer shock. You may not be rubbing while driving, but I bet you are. I suggest koni yellows.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 25, '04 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I'm not rubbing - at any speed. Not in the front anyway. With the problems being fixed this week, I except no problems with suspension anywhere.
And your logic is off. Your front wheels move more at a stand still than they ever will while moving. The only way moving will cause rubbing is bodyroll and pressure of the front of the car while stopping. You guys have to realize that I'm not doing autocross. Its a street car that at most will speed a little. No air jumps, no fast cornering.. just a street car. Koni Yellows - last time i'll say this - is a waste of money unless the driver entends the car to be more than street driving. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 5, '03 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
You obviously have never driven on them. They were the best decision I made for my car. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 25, '04 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
No, i've never been on Koni Yellows. However, I am a suspension nut and realize when a serious upgrade is needed. My previous GSX. Yes, something like Koni Yellows is needed. Do I want to spend 400 more dollars minus the work of having to weld on Koni Yellows when the most I'll ever do with my Celica is go down my street and make 5 mph turns. Its not needed. I'm glad you like them, but I wouldn't have a use for them at all. It's like getting 3" exhaust on a N/A motor. Yeah it'll work... but it's overkill. 2 or 2 1/2" works just fine. Sometimes the best in the business isn't always the best pick.
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Nov 25, '03 From Mizzeri Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
First off, I applaud your sensibilities, here. You could have said something like, "I can't afford the Konis", or something along those lines... instead, you simply said that they are not was is called for in this case. Whether or not that is true is really not something I can or would answer for you.
I find it a little hard to believe that 5 mph turns is all you'd be doing, but I think you were more try to point out the gist of your driving style than anything else, making a case for the non-Koni route. Not the way I drive my car, but we aren't talking about my car, are we ![]()
/rant Ahhh, very well said. Not many people understand this. Whether there is some kind of odd peer pressure or something involved, i don't know. It always baffles me when people say they need 'x' or 'y' part because the OEM one sucks. In some cases, there is a ring of truth, but more often than not, there is nothing wrong with the OEM stuff. Somehow the perception is that 'stock sucks'. Shocks and brake pads are two main examples. When either gets old, they certainly appear to suck (braking and/or dampening is decreased), and so they want Konis or Axxis MetalMasters, et al. Fact of the matter is that, for the most part, a new pair of stock brake pads will work great, and even out-perform the aftermarket stuff, yet since the old pads were just that, old, there is a perception that the MetalMaxxters are the shizzle or something. Same goes for shocks, plug wires, spar plugs, etc etc. When they wear out, they are going to suck. That doesn't mean new OEM ones would. /rant off Anyway, glad you understand this point. |
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