What to do!!!, after 8 months the 3s is not working! Options

[Chrobis]

Well, after 8 months of not driving over 4k rpm, and it constantly fuel cutting im, to say the least, agravated! I thought the shop I had the swap done at was compitent enough to service problems, but i have had this problem since i drove it out the shop in April. The car cant go over 80 on the freeway, and it cant be left in gear over 2k rpm, so that means to drive at 80 in 5th I have to accelerate for like 5 seconds, it cuts, i put the clutch in and it go's to idle and I can then accelerate once again.

At this time my mechanic seems to be just spitting out parts for me to replace that might fix the problem, and frankly I want to add parts to the car with the money I'm spending, not just pump into stuff I don't need. At this time he wants to try the knock sensor, which I'm not tottaly sure about...

I went over to my local dealer and they said they would be able to run a diagnostic for like $250+ which would suck because that is money that just disapears.

So people, what do I do!?

Pump money into parts that may fix the car, or just drop the money to then find out the exact problem and then drop the money to fix that?

This post has been edited by Chrobis: Nov 15, 2004 - 5:08 PM

[thedevilmaycrie]

id say do to autozone and "check out" a diagnositc machine for a $190 depsotie

[Chrobis]

Well toyota wouldn't just hook it up to a machine, the guy said they would hold the car for about a day, then call me and maybe need it for longer to solve the problem.

[Manta5x]

a sensor in my car went bad and kept causing my fuel injectors to cut off , the dealership had the car for a day/ checked it out and found and fixed the problem. they charge a lot but you know you getting a good job.

[97sccelica]

no scoop to cool the stock 3s TMIC?

do you have a fmic?

it might have to do with the fact that it is massively heat soaking, causing a lot of knock and making the ECU go into limp mode. especially when you are trying to go 80 mph

[Jdog1385]

yea, you went this far, so you might as well finish the job. let the local dealer take a look at it. they should find the problem

[DamDirtyApes]

yeah id say have a dealer look at it

[Coomer]

I'd say talk to Bryan or Ryu or one of those guys down there in Cali who's done the swap, and see if maybe they can take a look. Those guys really know their stuff.

[thedevilmaycrie]

yeah coomer is right lol i tell you what call me at 500 pm at 760 231 1166 im bryan

[Chrobis]

no scoop to cool the stock 3s TMIC?

do you have a fmic?

it might have to do with the fact that it is massively heat soaking, causing a lot of knock and making the ECU go into limp mode.  especially when you are trying to go 80 mph
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I know that not having a scoop or FMIC is not the best thing, but the fact that the car cuts at precisly 4k rpm in every gear, no matter if the car has been on for 10 minutes or 3 hours makes me think the heat soak is not the problem.

[Doge]

Yeah heat soak isnt a problem... trust me i know! It doesnt make your car cut out like that.. just loss of power

You cant go wrong with knowing exactly what is wrong with your car. Take it to Toyota... they'll tell you everything that needs to be fixed... problem solved.. no more of this guessing shiz!

This post has been edited by Doge: Nov 15, 2004 - 6:38 PM

[Chrobis]

exactly, just the compressed air going in wont be as effective.

[boosted_K2]

take it to EL prototypes of they arent too far from you.

[lagos]

how about trying to fix it yourself and learning a little about your car in the process.

before u do anything, pull your ecu codes, by jumping Te and E1 in your diagnostic box and reading the flash patter of your check engine light. those codes will tell you whats wrong with your car.

your rev problem is an ignition issue. make sure you are using a new cap, rotor, sparkplug cables and plugs. if you are and are still having the problem, then you must be using the wrong ignitor. take a look at the part number thats on yours, and post what it is, i can then tell u if it matches up with mine.

the other problem you are having sounds like fuel cut. make sure that the vac line to your turbo pressure sensor is in good shape and doubble check that the harness plug is connected too.

did u get a clip, or the motor? it almost sounds like you got just the motor and the shop that did your swap used the stock ignitor and were missing the turbo sensor.

dont give up on your car, your issues are very minor.

[Chrobis]

no offense to you lagos, but I know more about my car then you may think... like my cel... im not an idiot. 8 months of having my car fuel cutting, and yes i knew it was a fuel cut, you think i didnt check my engine light codes... well, just to let you know there are no codes, it dosnt throw a code, and after 8 months you think your the first to fill me in on the igniter... The 5s igniter while connected to the 3s puts out a code 14, but I'm not using the 5s igniter, i tried the one that came with the engine, and as of now I am using a brand new one for a 92 all-trac ordered from toyota world. And a boost cut from the map sensor is completly different from a fuel cut, a boost cut puts the car in limp mode, which from my understanding basically just opens up the wastegate not letting the car boost at all, and is fixed my restarting the car.

I'm sorry if I sound upset with your post, but honestly I am. You think I'm some dumb kid that dosnt know a thing about my car and I did a swap. It has been 8 months, and your still on day 2 after the swap... And I am the one that has done most of the attempts to solve the cars problems, not my mechanic.

I'm not pissed at you but you did kinda insult me with your post

[Chrobis]

and yes E.L. prototypes is like 400 miles away, or I would been there hella days ago.... And, you may be saying 400 miles isn't that far, but try driving the celi with the fuel cut, I opt to drive my moms minivan when dropping off friends from my house or going to the store.... if that is any inclanation as to how much it Sux!

But in the event the local dealer gives up, E.L. is next thing. And well if E.L. cant fix it, my car has a date with a tree!

[lagos]

excuse me for trying to help!

you asked...should i take it to mechanic A or B.... my reply, try to find the problem yourself. i dont know what u have done or what u have checked. from you post it sounded like you took the car to that same shop to have the swap done, and its not working right.

man, i tell you.... im the only person who posted any sold ideas to try, and all i get is **** for it.

And a boost cut from the map sensor is completly different from a fuel cut

boost cut from the map sensor is fuel cut.... thats why the sell fuel cut defenders to work around the problem.

It has been 8 months, and your still on day 2 after the swap

ive had my swap running since july.


This post has been edited by lagos: Nov 15, 2004 - 9:12 PM

[DamDirtyApes]

what are u gettin on lago's ass for dude, hes just trying to help

[WannabeGT4]

chrobis, if for 8 months you haven't been able to get your car running right I don't think you should be such a bitch to someone that's trying to help you. From everyhting I've ever read about not revving past 4k it's always been the ignitor so maybe you should just go ahead and post your part number for lagos to cross reference for you. That is, if he still feels like being nice to such an ass.

[boosted_K2]

limp mode doesnt just open the wastegate, limp mode opens the T-VSV.

[thedevilmaycrie]

i talked to him it sounds like complete boost cut i think its the tvsv i told him to cap off the tvsv and wastegate an see what happens it isnt the same 3sgte problems i had i had power loss he has complete boost cut

-DMC

[boosted_K2]

capping off the T-VSV will just put it into full time limp mode, which means it shouldnt boost over 8PSI ever, fuel cut isnt till 13. whats your boost gauge read when the fuel cut goes off? and you should get a CEL light when the fuel cut goes off, if you dont, then you arent getting a fuel cut at all.

[Chrobis]

well, this is the wierdiest part. That I actually can hear the relay click, my fuel pump shut off and I get no acceleration untill I let it go back to idle. So it is a fuel cut, but it dosnt put out any codes. Otherwise I would have something to go off of.

And lagos, I didnt mean to be an ass. It is just frustrating for like 30 people to tell me its the igniter, I then buy an igniter for $240 because I couldnt find a used one and my problem is still there. I guess you were the one I blew up at. And by day 2 of the swap, i meant your still giving me information I was getting 2 days after the swap.

But all in all, I apoligize.

And, im off to the dealer. Thanks guys for giving me sugestions, but I'm giving up trying it myself.

P.S. the whole thing with the tvis, I remember trying that some time ago.. and it didnt work. I have tried capping off the vac line to the map, unplugging the map, etc. I really think this is gona be either a wiring problem (from qatar) or some bad sensor that no one thought off.

[Chrobis]

Also, just to let everyone know there are like 5-10 different igniters for the second gen 3s-gte, so part number matching dosnt always work.

The igniter that came with the motor is 89621-12010

and the one I ordered is 89621-12050

and I believe different part numbers for Mr2's 90-92 and then another for 93-95.

also yet another for an alltrac from 90-91 and mine is from a 92.

[lagos]

if your ignitor is from a 92 and your ecu is a 90-91 then that could still be the problem. the ignition got a changeover in 92.

ill check the part number of mine and post it later today.

if you have a multimeter, i can also help you test your harnes plug to make sure your wiring is right....just let me know man, i think i can help u.

This post has been edited by lagos: Nov 16, 2004 - 1:43 PM

[Chrobis]

Well, I have (or can borrow) a multimeter, but I dont know how to go about testing my harness... help would be good. Also, just went over to toyota and they said it would be $480 to start and it may take longer, and even then there is no promise. So, the 4 hour drive to EL is looking pretty good at this time, I'm gona give them a call today.

[lagos]

borrow a multimeter and PM me when u have it. then i can give you my cell phone number and walk you through some tests and we will see if it is a wiring issue or not.

what every you do dont go to toyota. if anything go to el prototypes. for about 600-1000 they can fix all your wiring problems. you are not the 1st person that had to take mikes work to them and at least the money will be spent on fixing your car and not just taking 400 (toyota) to tell you u have a bad ignitor or something like that

This post has been edited by lagos: Nov 16, 2004 - 6:23 PM

[madmods]

Man your scaring me from doing the switch myself. I am presently trying to learn all I can about the swap!

[Chrobis]

Dont be scared of doing the swap, just either do it yourself (and make sure you can) or take it to a experienced place that knows what they are doing (el prototypes) and have one shop do all the work, not like me where my mechanic did the mechanical and mike did the wiring, cause when it comes to blame someone they can always say it was someone else.

Also, everyone has expressed this... buy only a clip, or an engine package from a very reputable place! Like if you were doing a 240sx sr20det swap, either a clip from say jarco, or an engine pack from heavythrottle.com. I ordered my engine (i was in a bit of a rush, and lots of people were out of stock) from some place in canada, and many parts were missing.

There are way more succesful 3s swaps then problematic ones!