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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 17, '06 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Hello I just bought a 94 toyota celica GT model 2.2 liter. The clutch is slipping and needs to be changed. I just bought a chilton manual that is very helpful but I am a little concerned. I have changed clutches before on rear wheel drive but never a front wheel drive car.
-I have searched for over an hour for a good write up on how to do this on a 6th gen. or 94 celica with no luck??? -My main question is this. When disconnecting the trans from the motor, the motor is no longer attached to the body in any way that I am aware of so, -do people usually just pull the whole motor out with the trans.? *Personally I don't like this idea* -If so do they drop it out the bottom or pull it out. I don't have an engine hoist at my garage. -Or how does one go about supporting the motor after the trans is out? *would just some chains do the job wrapped around the motor and connected to the upper braces on each side of the engine bay? -How is this usually done, and how difficult is this job say compared to other cars??? I don't want to pay a ton to have it done when I can do it, unless it wouldn't cost that much...... Thanks guys, I just bought this car and am already losing my hair!!!!!!!!!!!! -Also I was thinking of buying a centerforce stage II clutch I want a firmer pedal than stock and more holding power. *But it has to have a spring loaded puck!* I don't want an all out racing clutch.... -What is the best clutch for the money??? |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 27, '05 From Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Im no pro here, but when my clutch went out a couple weeks ago i started to do some research... I found a few people who had done these went with dropping the engine, just because of personal preference... And due to lack of time, i opted to just pay the pros to do it, and it costed me around 250 for labor and 150 for parts. I had the basic clutch put in, and then did all the other necessary things needed.... hope this helps a lil.
-Josh -------------------- ![]() I am now a part of the ihavemorethen16gc club! |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 4, '02 From Hecho en la Republica Dominicana/Living in NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
changine a clutch on a FWD is not super hard in any way ... but not as easy as a RWD... no you don't have to pull the motor out .. but you do have to support the motor and disconnet all the wires and remover both axels... and yes take it out from the bottome if your not going to have the car on a life make sure you have and extra jack and tranny jack makes the job alot easier ... but you dont have to take the mottor out witht he tranny ... hope this answers all your questions... if not hit me up i'll be happy to answer any questions you have ..
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
here is something im wondering..... doesnt the front and rear motor mont bolt to the tranny? so if you remove the tranny, wont the whole motor just hang there by that one weak passengers side mount?
-------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 3, '04 From Yakima, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
when i did the clutch change - we took off the lower support arm, disconnected all the motor mounts and tranny mounts, lowered the engine slightly - removed the axles... well removed the tires/wheels, hubs and then the axles then unbolted the motor/tranny mounts - lowered the engine + tranny, support it. unbolted the tranny from the engine and surprisingly the tranny only weight like 30 pounds or something rather - not very heavy at all. and replaced the clutch.
i meant cv joints, not axle ![]() ill edit this later on, shouldnt the chilton book go in mass amounts of detail on this? i mean that book is made for dumbies haha ![]() ill edit this later on, shouldnt the chilton book go in mass amounts of detail on this? i mean that book is made for dumbies haha ![]() -------------------- the 1/4 doesnt have patience for a ST.... so we make them ST-T's so atleast we'll sound good going slow.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 4, '02 From Hecho en la Republica Dominicana/Living in NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
QUOTE(lagos @ Jan 19, 2006 - 2:11 AM) [snapback]380787[/snapback] here is something im wondering..... doesnt the front and rear motor mont bolt to the tranny? so if you remove the tranny, wont the whole motor just hang there by that one weak passengers side mount? you would support the engine .. use an engin support beam ... and a jack under for extra support ... i found its alot less work when its doen this way .. -------------------- |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '05 From Bedford, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 11 (100%) ![]() |
I just got my done last week. It's seems pretty hard, but its not. Yea i was crying and kicking and what not, but i got it done
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() But just to let you know you dont have to take out ur cv axle, just take out ur other drive shaft. -------------------- ![]() |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 17, '06 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I really appreciate all your guys responses! I will probably drop the transmission this monday. I plan on using some sort of jack to support the motor and possibly running a 2x4 across the engine bay and wrapping a support strap around the motor for additional support but I don't know if that is neccessary. The chilton manual uses the support across the engine bay for support....
-It is to my understanding that both front driveshaft axles must be removed to pull out the transmission. I do not see what would qualify as the " other drive shaft" since it is front wheel drive... Could someone clarify this description for me??????? Thanks for your time..... BrandonA. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 17, '06 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
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For those of you who have done this before? -Do I really need to pull the flywheel to have it resurfaced? -What are some signs to look for while driving or on the flywheel that would make one want to have it resurfaced? -I am trying to save some money and time, but if this is crucial I'd have it done. Thanks.... |
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![]() Moderator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) ![]() |
you should ALWAYS have the flywheel done.
most machine shops charge under 40$ to do it -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
![]() 13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 18, '05 From Lincoln, Ar Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) ![]() |
Def, get the flywheel resurfaced otherwise your back to square 1 in 1 week.
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 17, '06 From Wisconsin Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Well I had the flywheel resurfaced. It cost my $60 as it is what is called a 2 step flywheel and the 3 dowel pins they had to remove. Oh well it is done. NOw to solve my CV boot issue !!!!!
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