My Tein Experience, Installing Tips/Headaches Options

[Celicav]

Well, I got the front springs on which were pretty easy. Comments, tips, observations...

- Make sure you loosen the Top middle bolt SOME (in engine bay) before taking the suspension assembly out of car...this will make it easier to get the bolt off once it is out of the car...also, make sure you don't have the top cap facing you when you take off the middle bolt - it will come shooting out along with the bolt. I laid the assembly on the ground and pointed it away from me
- You will be able to tell easily how the spring sits in there when putting the new one in
- if you have a Haynes manual or equivalent, look at the torque specs before tightening all the bolts back on

I am in the middle of doing the rear and it has been hell so far. I followed Manny's advice to the tee with the sway bar link bolt, but still stripped one of those allen heads...used a hand saw forever to get that damn link off and then went to Pep Boys and got a new one ($40). Other than that, the suspension bolts (hooked to suspension arms) would not budge despite my big ass torque wrench, so those got PB blasted and are soaking over night...

To Be Continued, and can't wait to show yall pics when done...damn rusty old cars (wish all the bolts were as easy as the brake line bolts...that would be heaven)

[lagos]

make sure you don't have the top cap facing you when you take off the middle bolt - it will come shooting out along with the bolt. I laid the assembly on the ground and pointed it away from me

good tip, but you should have used a spring compressor. its a lot safer.

[playr158]

PB blaster does miracles!

good luck dude

This post has been edited by playr158: Feb 17, 2006 - 11:09 AM

[tomazws]

I had the ghetto spring compressors where you have to twist it close and open... It was tough labor work....

[purplegt4]

i hate when problems occur...well i guess that's murphy's law.

gL!

if ur in no. va i can help u out if u want.

[Celicav]

Damn this sucks...I just got home after PB Blasting (last night) those two damn lower Rear Supension bolts on either side. I just got a 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar and 6 pt 3/4" socket and tried like hell to break those bolts loose to no avail. I was pulling like mad and am not THAT weak, but I don't want to pull the car off the jack stands either. The Fronts were much easier to get off (?).

Any suggestions? Air tools? Thanks.

[playr158]

lol are you turning both to the left?

[LewFX]

air tools rule!

[purplegt4]

liquid wrench works...

so does remembering righty tighty / lefty loosey

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

You should be using metric sockets on it. I'd be worried about stripping. I know there's a couple of sizes that match up about perfect, so 3/4 could be one. What is that, like 14mm? If you can get ahold of some air tools, that's your best bet. A good two piston air wrench will take it off or break it, either one in under 2 seconds. I love those things. Single piston will work just fine. I would try hitting it. Take a hammer and hit around it as hard as you can without tearing things up. This might knock some stuff loose. Just be careful. If worste comes to worste, use a grinder or hacksaw, then buy new parts.

[playr158]

bad advice...i wouldn't hacksaw those bolts

and the bolts are 17mm or 19mm i forget defenitly NOT 14mm

get two 1/2" drive socket wrenches and two 17mm or 19mm sockets (which ever it is) set them both on LEFT and grab a breaker bar....
get one wrench so that it spins around till its path gets blocked by the brake system which will hold it in place then on the other one use a breaker bar and give it a good push/pull you'll be fine

This post has been edited by playr158: Feb 18, 2006 - 12:33 PM

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

bad advice...i wouldn't hacksaw those bolts

and the bolts are 17mm or 19mm i forget defenitly NOT 14mm

get two 1/2" drive socket wrenches and two 17mm or 19mm sockets (which ever it is) set them both on LEFT and grab a breaker bar....
get one wrench so that it spins around till its path gets blocked by the brake system which will hold it in place then on the other one use a breaker bar and give it a good push/pull you'll be fine

I'm just saying if worste comes to worste. Like the situation comes up that he can't get them off with a wrench. Can't these be replaced? I'm not exactly sure what bolts are even being talked about here, I'm just going on general bolt knowledge. I still don't see how I gave bad advice. If you can't get a bolt off with a wrench, you don't really have much other option other than cutting it off.

[playr158]

well then you should read

he's refering to these i am pretty sure


the 2 that are on the strut to knuckle......i HIIIIIIGHLY doubt there is a need to even attempt to cut as these are very hard grade metal...and pretty darn thick

they should come off in any case with a good socket/breaker bar system or air gun...

This post has been edited by playr158: Feb 18, 2006 - 2:50 PM

[lagos]

if u cant get it with a braker bar.... find a longer braker bar. you can use a 3/4ths. its one of the few standard sizes that is a perfect match to a 19mm size.

[Willy2o9]

what are the torque specs for the top bolt...?

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

Get creative! Use any kind of bar or even a huge lead pipe (like i use) to give you even more torque on your breaker bar. Just use steady, consistant force to help loosen it up. They'll come loose if you spray the crap out of them and apply plenty of torque to them.

Good luck.

[95CelicaST]

Who needs a breaker bar when you have a bigass ratchet and a 2 1/2ft long lead pipe? hope its going easier now, good tips though.

[purplegt4]

use vice grips -> & extension / breaker bar combo

[Celicav]

well then you should read

he's refering to these i am pretty sure


the 2 that are on the strut to knuckle......i HIIIIIIGHLY doubt there is a need to even attempt to cut as these are very hard grade metal...and pretty darn thick

they should come off in any case with a good socket/breaker bar system or air gun...

Thanks for the advice guys. These are the 2 bolts I'm talkin about (strut to knuckle). I've been away the past couple of days, but think I will try the lead pipe extension and then air tools.

And YES, I am pulling to the LEFT

This post has been edited by Celicav: Feb 19, 2006 - 5:23 PM

[purplegt4]

what are the torque specs for the top bolt...?

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=33982

[Celicav]

Well, I finally finished the installation and I stumbled upon a dumbbell pipe that slipped perfectly over my breaker bar and got those damn bolts loose. Thanks! Now here is how she rides:

1. Ride is definitely stiffer. These Teins are on my new 95 Red Hatchback (72K miles on her), but I also have the Eibach ProKit (1.0" drop all around) on the ride in my profile and the ride almost feels stock (springs on since 78K miles, now at 113K). I guess my shocks/struts are gonna need replaced at some point. Is this an easier install than the springs?

2. I think I got a little spring movement in the fronts b/c I can hear that "klunk" people talk about when I'm at low speeds and turning the wheel. What is the risk of not fixing this? Rubber spring seatings will wear?

Guess I need to recheck the springs are sitting just right and "Check that the front top spring seating has been installed correctly. The is a marking which says OUT on it and this should be installed facing out towards the wheel" (from yozef, Post "Install Time?). Any other advice?

3. I know I need the alignment done. Right now, she does not pull on the Interstate, but seems to pull more at lower speeds.

Overall though, she takes the curves much nicer now and I killed the wheel gap. Pics coming!

[playr158]

grease the top of your front springs really well that will fix the klunk i do believe

[Celicav]

grease the top of your front springs really well that will fix the klunk i do believe

I am guessing you mean the very top of the coil where the spring sits in its perch. The Teins do have a sleeve around like the top two circles on the spring, to prevent the metal-to-metal contact...so I don't think that is the problem. I can try a little grease then, but the springs won't slip out, will they??

This post has been edited by Celicav: Feb 20, 2006 - 10:33 PM

[LewFX]

the metal rings need greasing, but klunking from my troubleshooting guide can be from a bad strut or cv joint which happens allot when lowering a car.

[playr158]

the springs need to be able to twist with out binding on the top perch which is wat could be happening use a bearing grease or sumthing right on the top of the coil

[Celicav]

the springs need to be able to twist with out binding on the top perch which is wat could be happening use a bearing grease or sumthing right on the top of the coil

Thanks man. I will give this a try tomorrow. The springs only make little noises usually when I am just starting the car and make my first turn. I guess they are "cold" and are telling me that they need a little adjustment and grease.

[Celicav]

Well, you guys are great and so is this site. I disassembled the Fronts again and I HAD installed the top spring seating incorrectly...did not have the "OUT" part of the metal plate facing out. I'll blame it on the fact that I was not paying close enough attention, and I had not read this on the site (or missed it somehow), and Mynzeyes installation instructions don't mention that detail. In addition, I added some bearing grease to the top coil like you suggested. NOW I don't hear any noises!!

I hope this post has added more value for the next person that attempts this installation. Thanks again playr, Lew, and yozef.