Help Update: Speedo Still Not Working Options

[Chanh55]

We just completed swapping her all the hoses and stuff are connected.... I think..

This is from a 6gc with a completed swap...

I did a auto to manual swap, does it matter if I connect the park neutral thing in order to start the car? If so... where is that wire at?

When I turn the key, everything sounds normal... but the starter doesn't turn over...

Please help... I'm thinking it's something with the wiring. I'm stumped.

This post has been edited by Chanh55: Mar 22, 2006 - 5:23 PM

[lagos]

you need to wire in, or bypass the clutch start switch.

[Chanh55]

Do you know where that is? I can't find it.

[Consynx]

follow the started to the ignition?

[Chanh55]

Eggman... Lagos.... Doc... Help! ahhh

[WannabeGT4]

Check fuses "60A MAIN", "30A AM2", "7.5A ST"

Park/Neutral switch and Clutch Start switch both have a Black and a Black-Yellow wire going to them. These wires must be connected by the way of the switch in order for the starter to operate, or they can be spliced together if you wish to disable that safety measure. The Clutch Start switch is located on the clutch pedal assembly, and the Park/Neutral switch is located at the front of the automatic transmission. You'll need to talk to who ever did your harness to find out where those wires were routed since you went from auto to manual.

Supporting Diagrams:
http://www.celicatech.com/vfewdsou/1995/95...ic/componen.pdf
http://www.celicatech.com/vfewdsou/1995/95...ric/start5s.pdf

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Mar 15, 2006 - 12:21 PM

[x_itchy_b_x]

ok check this also (this was my promblem)
where the main harness from the motor plugs into the underside of the engine comp. fuse box. there should be a white a clamp that swings over the top of the harness to hold it in place. if that piece isnt clamped all the way down. you wont have a good ground and only a few things will work.

[x_itchy_b_x]

anything yet?

[Chanh55]

ok check this also (this was my promblem)
where the main harness from the motor plugs into the underside of the engine comp. fuse box. there should be a white a clamp that swings over the top of the harness to hold it in place. if that piece isnt clamped all the way down. you wont have a good ground and only a few things will work.

I don't see what you're talking about. Can you take a pic?

The auto/ manual thing... I don't think it matters because I changed the ECU to a manual one, so I just need to hold down the clutch when I'm starting the car.

[Rjb23]

ok check this also (this was my promblem)
where the main harness from the motor plugs into the underside of the engine comp. fuse box. there should be a white a clamp that swings over the top of the harness to hold it in place. if that piece isnt clamped all the way down. you wont have a good ground and only a few things will work.

I don't see what you're talking about. Can you take a pic?

The auto/ manual thing... I don't think it matters because I changed the ECU to a manual one, so I just need to hold down the clutch when I'm starting the car.

It does matter, this is why your car is not turning over I had the exact same problem. The starter relay in the auto is different then the manual SR. The manual SR has 4 pins, the Auto SR has 3, so you are missing a wire that goes to the SR.

I over came this by splicing a wire on the COR(circuit opening relay) to a wire that connects to the ECU. I don't remember off the top of my head but it was the black wire on the COR to a black yellow wire on the ECU, which I don't remember. Maybe doc can post because he is the one that helped me through mine. Also you may need to change your ST(starter) fuse 7.5 amp to a 10 amp, I had to do that too.

[WannabeGT4]

ok check this also (this was my promblem)
where the main harness from the motor plugs into the underside of the engine comp. fuse box. there should be a white a clamp that swings over the top of the harness to hold it in place. if that piece isnt clamped all the way down. you wont have a good ground and only a few things will work.

I don't see what you're talking about. Can you take a pic?

The auto/ manual thing... I don't think it matters because I changed the ECU to a manual one, so I just need to hold down the clutch when I'm starting the car.

Both manual and auto ECUs have provisions for this safety feature. It's just that the auto has the switch on the transmission and the maual has it on the clutch pedal assembly. If your clutch start switch is wired into the starter circuit correctly, you're right, all you should have to do is hold down the clutch pedal.

[Chanh55]

RIB, can you do me a huge favor and take pic of what you sliced... Cuz I can't find those wires... and/or I don't want to splice the wrong ones.

Also... there's a blue fuse that I can't remove. It's the 100A fuse in the front half fuse box the one connected to the harness.. does someone know how to remove it? The red and yellow ones were easily removed with my fingers but this one is locked or something. =\

[Chanh55]

I got the fuse out... wtf it's bolted down from the underside of the fuse box... so I had to remove the housing and remove the bolts...

[Rjb23]

Chanh, I can look later and tell you. But the Circuit opening relay is the wierd 5 pin plug that plugs into the little black relay that is screwed into the ecu, there should be a black wire on that, there is only one black wire there. Then the black yello wire is on one of the ecu plugs, the st 7.5 amp fuse that you have to switch out is in the driverside fuse box.

Don't listen to people who haven't done the auto to manual 3s swap they don't know what they are talking about. Dr Tweak knows and Dg knows they both helped me out.

[Chanh55]

Hey RJB... I'm gonna need a pic of how that was wired.. because I tried a lot of combinations from your explaination, but nothing is turning. Please post a pic. Thanks.

[Rjb23]

I'll see what I can do. What you want to do is take a paper clip and back pin the wires to see if that is your problem or not. That is what I did, and also check your st fuse on the driveside fuse box and make sure it is not blown.

[DG_Performance]

I am still not following your problem?
does the car turn over like it wants to start and just dont fire up?
more detail?
dg

[Rjb23]

Sorry I couldn't get a good enough picture to show what you need to do.

You probably should give Dr. Tweak a call he can walk you through it he did me.

Dave, his starter isn't engaging because he doesn't have the starter safety switch bypassed.

[Chanh55]

Sorry I couldn't get a good enough picture to show what you need to do.

You probably should give Dr. Tweak a call he can walk you through it he did me.

Dave, his starter isn't engaging because he doesn't have the starter safety switch bypassed.

I sent him a PM. I'm hoping he'll respond. Did you get any picture at all?

[tomazws]

I don't think I'm any help lol, but I hope you could fix the problem

[Dr_Tweak]

Chan, give me a call if you like. 802-334-6553.

-Doc

[WannabeGT4]

There is a less complicated way to accomplish the same exact thing RJB has suggested.
On the COR plug there is a black and a black-yellow wire. They need to be connected together like this:

[Rjb23]

I don't think there is a black and black yello wire on the cor, but yea that is the idea. Remember his harness is not the same as the stock 5s harness. Doc will get him straight.

[WannabeGT4]

Wirings diagrams for both the 90-91 and 92-93 3SGTE show a black and black yellow wire on the COR just like the 5SFE COR. I'd have to go take a look at my harness at home to be 100% sure though.

[Rjb23]

Yea me too but if I remember right I didn't have one because my car was an auto so it was missing that wire.

This post has been edited by Rjb23: Mar 16, 2006 - 3:16 PM

[WannabeGT4]

Auto and Manual COR wiring should be the same... even between AT200 and ST204, but again, this is just according to the wiring diagrams i have.

[Chanh55]

I gave doc a call, I will give his suggestion a try. I'll post about it if it works as it is good to know if you're doing a swap and you have an auto.

[Chanh55]

Bump, please see page 1.

[WannabeGT4]

Yea me too but if I remember right I didn't have one because my car was an auto so it was missing that wire.

Auto and Manual COR wiring should be the same... even between AT200 and ST204, but again, this is just according to the wiring diagrams i have.

Both my 3S harness and my 5S harness have the black and black/yellow wires.

[Dr_Tweak]

Yes, but the black wire goes to a different place on the 3SGTE diagrams. Trace it out and you'll see what I mean.

-Doc

[WannabeGT4]

Yes, but the black wire goes to a different place on the 3SGTE diagrams. Trace it out and you'll see what I mean.

-Doc

Yeah, That was just a simpler way to accomplish the same thing RJB suggested. I didn't do his harness so it's a good thing you cleared that up for him.

[Chanh55]

My speedometer isn't working. I checked all the plugs and they're all tight. I removed the cruise control unit... do you think this has anything to do with the speedometer not working?

OK, just talked to the previous owner of the engine... he said after El Prototype redid the wiring, the speedometer stopped working. So I'm thinking there's a missing connection between the gauge and the speed sensor.

Can someone help me out?

This post has been edited by Chanh55: Mar 20, 2006 - 6:07 PM

[Dr_Tweak]

Here you go Chan:



That's what we talked about over the phone, if you can mimick that circuit you should be set. You'll find the wires you want at II1 pins 12 and 13, and II2 pin 10. Red/blue, blue/black, and blue.

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Mar 20, 2006 - 10:26 PM

[DG_Performance]

The easy way to do it.... i am guessing you will not be able to read that diagram so just do the following.

check on these 3 wires...

Plug IG2#3 goes to Plug II2#10
Plug IG2#4 goes to Plug II1#12
Plug IG2#12 goes to Plug II1#13
DG

[Chanh55]

The easy way to do it.... i am guessing you will not be able to read that diagram so just do the following.

check on these 3 wires...

Plug IG2#3 goes to Plug II2#10
Plug IG2#4 goes to Plug II1#12
Plug IG2#12 goes to Plug II1#13
DG

I love you man!

I'm looking at the diagram with all the connectors/ plugs, which one is II1? Is that connected to the ECU or is it one of those ones with the 3 verticle connectors near the ECU?

This post has been edited by Chanh55: Mar 21, 2006 - 1:18 AM

[DG_Performance]

You can kiss me later....
NOT!
II1 is one of the plugs under the radio...grey, 5pins on top... 8 on bottom

DG

This post has been edited by DG_Performance: Mar 21, 2006 - 1:23 AM

[Chanh55]

You can kiss me later....
NOT!
II1 is one of the plugs under the radio...grey, 5pins on top... 8 on bottom

DG

Cool thanks. I'll should be able to test it Wednesday when my new AFM comes.

[madmods]

Chann, you made this comment on another post:

It's literally scary fast... I'm scared to driver her right now... and the car makes all kinds of noises... to name a few... the whinebro fuel pump, blow off valve, turbo spooling... loud exaust... it's definately not your normal commuter car anymore.

So in all honesty, do you like it? What are the pros and cons to her?

[Chanh55]

Well...

1. I drove to the mufflerr shop with a bad AFM (Air Flow Meter) to get my testpipe and she breaks down on me like 3 times....in the middle of the road, pretty embarrassing. So now, I'm not really trusting her.

2. I'm really used to driving around in an automatic...now I have to adjust to a manual, on top of that a Stage II clutch. I've stalled a few times already. BTW I do know how to drive stick... just takes a little time adjusting to the Stage II.

3. I did most of the work myself... I never even changed my oil before... how the hell am I supposed to know I didn't do something wrong?

But all in all... I can't believe I have a 3sgte under my hood! It still hasn't hit me yet... Like I said... I just need a little time to adjust.

[madmods]

Well...

1. I drove to the mufflerr shop with a bad AFM (Air Flow Meter) to get my testpipe and she breaks down on me like 3 times....in the middle of the road, pretty embarrassing. So now, I'm not really trusting her.

2. I'm really used to driving around in an automatic...now I have to adjust to a manual, on top of that a Stage II clutch. I've stalled a few times already. BTW I do know how to drive stick... just takes a little time adjusting to the Stage II.

3. I did most of the work myself... I never even changed my oil before... how the hell am I supposed to know I didn't do something wrong?

But all in all... I can't believe I have a 3sgte under my hood! It still hasn't hit me yet... Like I said... I just need a little time to adjust.

I guess I should refrain the question. Talk to me about the power! The scary fast is what I am interested in.
plus congratulations on the swap. lagos once said that a swap would make you a good mechanic, and i have
to agree with him. I'm sure your on the way there.

[Chanh55]

I haven't really pushed her yet... but when I do, I will give you a thorough review.

[Chanh55]

Speedometer still not working.

Can someone give me a diagram of connector II2, I'm not sure if I'm working with the right one.

My idling is at 1500... how do I fix this? I tried adjusting the throttle already.

[Chanh55]

I've pushed her... and to answer your question MadMods... "Smile from ear to ear..."

[95celgt]

bump!, trying to fix speed sensor!, idles a bit high, but it doesn't bother me.

Installed new denso iridiums(gap was off specs), Reset timing, ran better, but then started misfiring after driving around between 1400 and 1900 rpm....

[lagos]

are you the new owner or something?

you should be using plain copper ngk plugs on this motor. the speedo problem is a wiring issue. its like 3-4 wires to need to rewire to make it work right.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 17, 2006 - 1:01 AM

[95celgt]

i replaced them with iridiums because thats what was in there already, are you saying I shouldn't use them?(they were$56:S)

will it be bad to keep them in there?

This post has been edited by 95celgt: Apr 17, 2006 - 10:26 AM

[playr158]

the iridium tip is too small for turbo cars really....a plain NGK copper plug is your best bet....not to mention hella cheaper
could be your misfiring issues....

congradualtions on getting the car

[95celgt]

i just read that the iriduim plugs(IK20) come pre-gapped for the n/a, and needs to be re-gaped to 0.032, is this correct?

" Brand new DENSO IRIDIUM Spark Plugs PN# IK20.

Complete set of (4 ) Spark Plugs.

Fits all 1991-1995 Toyota MR2

Comes Pre-Gapped at DENSO Factory recommended settings for NA engines.
* Turbo Models- Gap needs to be set to recommended 0.032 by user* "

[WannabeGT4]

Might as well give it a try. It can't hurt.

As far as the speedo problem goes, Dr Tweak posted the wiring diagram for it... You just have to make sure your wiring matches it.

[95celgt]

yea, but damn, even now it runs awesome aside from the 1-2K rpm misfire, pulls hard, no ping, no misfire after 2K rpm...

i also cant find copper NGK's, everywhere I go all i find is platinum and iridium.

[Chanh55]

Pictures!

[playr158]

NGK BKR6E are very easy to find at nearly any auto parts store

[95celgt]

well i fixed the misfiring, a wire that goes to the coil was making a short, so im keeping the iridium's, spent too much on them to get rid of them now, but they are still at the original spec, what is the 3SGTE PLUG GAP!!!???

as for the speedo, im disassembling the dash right now....

[playr158]

gap should be

.8mm or .031in

[95celgt]

hi guys, i put in normal plugs, started...fan fine....once it warmed up it started misfiring again, from the look if the plugs, its running REALLY RICH(black carbon around electrode), so what do I do?(timing is set to 10 degrees, do I advance it more?)

[playr158]

how are you advancing your timing and playing with your ignition?

if its SAFC rip it out...they arn't good on a Gen2 AFM 3sgte

[95celgt]

how are you advancing your timing and playing with your ignition?

if its SAFC rip it out...they arn't good on a Gen2 AFM 3sgte

timing gun that plugs into the ecu and distributor adjustment, uncle is a toyota tech, I have all his tools

just added about 4 more degrees, will take it for a spin in a bit...

[lagos]

how are you advancing your timing and playing with your ignition?

if its SAFC rip it out...they arn't good on a Gen2 AFM 3sgte

timing gun that plugs into the ecu and distributor adjustment, uncle is a toyota tech, I have all his tools

just added about 4 more degrees, will take it for a spin in a bit...

PUT IT BACK TO 10TDC !!!!!

this is a facotry turbo motor. the LAST thing you ever want to do is advance the timing.

the plugs should look black. thats totally normal.

try changing you cap/rotor or wires.

[95celgt]

DAMMIT!!! It runs soooo much better at 14TDC! no more misfire, wires are nology hotwires, cap and rotor are fine...

If I put it back to 10TDC, its really hard to start and misfires, what do I do?!!!!!

[lagos]

you probably have a boost leak or something

running advanced timing on a turbo motor is probably the worst thing you could do.

are you setting the timing correctly? do u have the car warmed up and in diagnostic mode 1st?

how do you know the wires, cap and rotor are fine? how did you test them ?

[LewFX]

what did you do to the beast???

[95celgt]

you probably have a boost leak or something

running advanced timing on a turbo motor is probably the worst thing you could do.

are you setting the timing correctly? do u have the car warmed up and in diagnostic mode 1st?

how do you know the wires, cap and rotor are fine? how did you test them ?

yes correctly, so I dont know why it runs crappy at 10, and I had the tech look at it.
it runs pretty nice where I have it right now, but darn, I dont have money to throw into it right now to give the ignition a tune-up...($60 denso's could have gone into cap-rotor....)

Lewfx-nothing, i have only driven it about 4 times around the block.........

This post has been edited by 95celgt: Apr 25, 2006 - 12:12 AM

[Rjb23]

gap should be

.8mm or .031in

Stock gap is .032.

http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_inf...products_id=220

[95celgt]

Cool, I noticed the Breather filter attatched to the "crankcase vent"(pipe coming out of valvecover that would connect to the stock intake) is NOTHING but a Chimney(saturated and leaks oil, once car is warm it burns it and smoke coming out into the cabin(cluster and footwells) and also visible coming out of the hood when oil lands on block....)

any idea how to fix that, car also smokes ALOT through the muffler for a few seconds every now and then, then COMpletely stops...

Well I dont have the timing gun anymore so i'm taking it to the dyno to get it done and see the fuel curve and such...

[lagos]

i still dont understand why people use breather filters on there.. that pcv line from the valve cover has to be hooked up to the air intake.

[95celgt]

it came like that lagos:P

but even then, it shouldnt let oil flow out right?! should I try replacing the pvc valve?

[lagos]

it came like that lagos:P

but even then, it shouldnt let oil flow out right?! should I try replacing the pvc valve?

you need to start reading up more about this engine. sign up to mr2oc.com and just start reading every post.

there is no pcv valve on this engine. all you need to do is hook that up to the intake.

[Rjb23]

i still dont understand why people use breather filters on there.. that pcv line from the valve cover has to be hooked up to the air intake.

Whats wrong with using a breather? Ive read of alot of ppl using breathers, and it doesn't hurt anything over on mr2oc.

Mine doesn't spit out oil out of my breather that I am using, I am using a breather because I am using the line that goes to the intake for the breather for my bypass valve.

If your spitting out that much oil than probably something else is wrong.

[playr158]

gap should be

.8mm or .031in

Stock gap is .032.

http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_inf...products_id=220

you can't argue with BGB

[lagos]

i still dont understand why people use breather filters on there.. that pcv line from the valve cover has to be hooked up to the air intake.

Whats wrong with using a breather? Ive read of alot of ppl using breathers, and it doesn't hurt anything over on mr2oc.

Mine doesn't spit out oil out of my breather that I am using, I am using a breather because I am using the line that goes to the intake for the breather for my bypass valve.

If your spitting out that much oil than probably something else is wrong.

just because many people do it that way, dosnt mean they are doing something right. the pcv system is designed to be under vac at all times. you also loose vac by having that vented, and that can make your idle crappy or your car not run right. i know of a few people who had some major smoking issues from their car because they used a breather filter on there.

the main thing to remember, is that you gain NOTHING by using a breather on there. its just a gehtto way hook up your pcv system, when you run out of ports on your intake. take the time to do it right.

[Rjb23]

I don't have crappy idle or vac, I run 20 vac all day long and idle right at 900-1000 rpm's without fluctuation.

If you search mr2oc for this, you will see that venting the crankcase vent back into the intake is just a form of emissions control. As long as you don't leave the tube that goes to the intake un plugged it will not do any harm.

[playr158]

better yet.....get a catch can

[Rjb23]

better yet.....get a catch can

Yea that is another way,

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=9404...=crankcase+vent

another,

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=145394&page=1&pp=30

and another,

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=1594...=crankcase+vent

[Doge]

I would listen to Lagos. Tee off your intake line so you can hook up your BPV AND your PCV. I'll wager that your smoking issues will disappear. My swap had the same problem... Lagos is correct. Why don't you just try it and see what happens? It would probably be wise to take the advice of people that know what they are talking about. The PCV should be under VAC at all times... pure and simple.

[95celgt]

The car has become undrivable from all the smoke in the cabin, which made me ill driving it 5 miles today, so im gonna fix this today...

Thanks for all the input I have taken my time to read all of the threads on mr2oc and this is what I picked up:

The oil flowing out through the breather is part of blow-by, putting it into the intake will make the intake, turbo, and IC piping coated with oil, so I will need to clean it from time to time.

So best meathod IMO would be to put it into the exhaust, but I will end up plumbing it into the intake regardless for time's sake.

[WannabeGT4]

The car has become undrivable from all the smoke in the cabin, which made me ill driving it 5 miles today, so im gonna fix this today...

Thanks for all the input I have taken my time to read all of the threads on mr2oc and this is what I picked up:

The oil flowing out through the breather is part of blow-by, putting it into the intake will make the intake, turbo, and IC piping coated with oil, so I will need to clean it from time to time.

Playr already mentioned it but that is exactly what a catch can is for.

So best meathod IMO would be to put it into the exhaust, but I will end up plumbing it into the intake regardless for time's sake.

I've never heard of plumbing your pcv to your exhaust before. Having hot expanding gases traveling into your crankcase is counter productive considering the nature of the PCV.

[playr158]

The car has become undrivable from all the smoke in the cabin, which made me ill driving it 5 miles today, so im gonna fix this today...

Thanks for all the input I have taken my time to read all of the threads on mr2oc and this is what I picked up:

The oil flowing out through the breather is part of blow-by, putting it into the intake will make the intake, turbo, and IC piping coated with oil, so I will need to clean it from time to time.

Playr already mentioned it but that is exactly what a catch can is for.

So best meathod IMO would be to put it into the exhaust, but I will end up plumbing it into the intake regardless for time's sake.

I've never heard of plumbing your pcv to your exhaust before. Having hot expanding gases traveling into your crankcase is counter productive considering the nature of the PCV.

actually having your PCV routed very close to the end of your exhaust out by the muffler is a great way to have it done...there is a full thing over on mr2oc about it...
look the PCV routing

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=1453...ght=PCV+exhaust <----part1

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 26, 2006 - 9:38 PM

[WannabeGT4]

Isn't a catch can a whole lot easier in our case though. We'd have to run a hose clear to the end of the car to do it that way.

[lagos]

or you could just hook it up the way toyota did it an not have any problems with it ever again

[95celgt]

LOL @ Lagos

I finished running a hose to the Intake, man was that breather a cup of oil!! no more self-intoxication!!!
Car feels better before boost as well, THANKS LAGOS!

yup-I read on mr2oc that a catch can isnt all that effective...

Ill check the intake tomorrow for oil build up...

only thing i notice is my idle went from 1K to 1800...

[Rjb23]

I would listen to Lagos. Tee off your intake line so you can hook up your BPV AND your PCV. I'll wager that your smoking issues will disappear. My swap had the same problem... Lagos is correct. Why don't you just try it and see what happens? It would probably be wise to take the advice of people that know what they are talking about. The PCV should be under VAC at all times... pure and simple.

The crankcase vent is not a vacuum, it releases exhaust gases from the crank case. If you read the posts that I linked to, you will see bill explain how the crankcase vent works.

[Doge]

The crankcase is not a vacuum... but the intake is. The air is getting SUCKED into the engine. The hoses connected to the intake are also gettting that 'suck'.

[lagos]

The crankcase is not a vacuum... but the intake is. The air is getting SUCKED into the engine. The hoses connected to the intake are also gettting that 'suck'.

yep

[Rjb23]

The crankcase is not a vacuum... but the intake is. The air is getting SUCKED into the engine. The hoses connected to the intake are also gettting that 'suck'.

Thats right but when you block that hose off or attach it to a bypass valve instead of the crankcase vent no extra air is getting sucked in.

[Doge]

What's your point? The PCV needs the vacuum or it will smoke like a chimney... there's nothing else to discuss.

[lagos]

The crankcase is not a vacuum... but the intake is. The air is getting SUCKED into the engine. The hoses connected to the intake are also gettting that 'suck'.

Thats right but when you block that hose off or attach it to a bypass valve instead of the crankcase vent no extra air is getting sucked in.

we are saying that the pcv system, needs the help of the air in the intake to work correctly. when you throw a breather on there, the pcv is not getting sucked out like it should.

[phattyduck]

I've never heard of plumbing your pcv to your exhaust before. Having hot expanding gases traveling into your crankcase is counter productive considering the nature of the PCV.

If you have the correct type of check valve, it is the best way to keep your crankcase under vacuum - of course, this really only works well on N/A carburated engines with no smog restrictions... (ie doesn't work on turbo cars or cars with an AFM or MAF)

On cars with an AFM or MAF, it is very important that the intake is a completely closed system - this includes the crankcase and any blow-by that comes out of the PCV system. This means no PCV breathers or anything like that.

-Charlie

[95celgt]

guys, some help on a problem?

Car runs crappy when its in vaccum, but runs fine under boost?
any ideas? i replaced rotor, and coil, cap i bought wouldnt allow for my aftermarket cables...timing is on 10tdc....(this is the same problem as stated bfore as misfire under low rpm's)

[lagos]

can you tell us what "crappy" means?

[95celgt]

the extreme case of misfire when I give it throttle until it hits boost:)

likes to try and turn off on me when moving from a stop..

[lagos]

did you see what happend to my car on the dyno when i didnt run NGK brk7e plugs? im willing to bet that those plugs you put in there are the wrong heat range and are causing the same problem. look at the 1st dyno sheet in my dyno thread. its shocking what the wrong plug can do on a turbo motor.

[95celgt]

i put in the ngk's, and it ran crappier than the motorcrafts:S

mine were the part number playr158 gave me the 6 i think not 7...on the box it says v-power copper i think

[Consynx]

i run the 6097's by ngk, iunno what heat range they are, but they're suggested.
btw, i'm 1jz, not 3s(inase someone goes to buy these based on me)

This post has been edited by Consynx: May 3, 2006 - 12:58 AM

[95celgt]

mine are brk6e?

car misfires INCREDIBLY in vaccum, REALLy hard to turn on, and HARD to keep alive when cold...when driving EVERYTHING runs fine under boost, although, its not as fast as it should be....

need help guys, im completly drained of money from buying ignition parts(no returns no warrantieslol).that dont help for shi*

[95celgt]

any ideas?

[lagos]

have you checked for boost leaks?

[95celgt]

car runs good for days, some times it runs bad, i dont know what to do guys!

[95celgt]

so i got bored today and decided to poke at the wiring in the car to see if the speedo will work using this diagram:




here it shows the 3 wires that go to the speedo from the speed sensor, theres wire 1 which is red/blue stripe, wire 2 is blue/black stripe and 3 is solid blue. At the sensor plug wires 1 and 2 were intact, and 3 was cut at the scene, for sum reason its blue (the way its supposed to be but after an inch into the harness its gray so i assume this is why it was cut, and a wire was spliced and routed into junction plug 3 behind the HVAC but infront of the ECU with a blue/white stripe wire, and the non plug side was left there. There was another side that was also cut in that area and T'd in somehow....

well, I first started to "fix" the mess at the 3 junctions by the ecu, so i got rid of the splice point and put blue/white and blue/white back together, then solid blue with its solid blue...so that the harness matched itself again, and after looking at the pic, it shows that wire 3 merges with a gray (i assume ground) at the gauge cluster circuit board, an there is a screw at that circuit path with a b next to it. So i got wire 3 directly from the speed sensor on the tranny and looped it on the screw....well long story putting everything back together, but in the end the speedo still didnt work......What did happen though is the i no longer get a CEL for speedsensor (code 52 i think), so no more CEL's but speedo still doesn't roll:(