3SGTE, No A/C No Problem Options

[Defgeph]

I did a little work trying to figure out how to properly delete the A/C compressor.

This is the old set up I had.



Clearly not the right way.

After looking at a EPC and going to Toyota we have found this.





Pulley part number - 16603-88360
Belt - 99365-21010

This is a perfect way to delete the A/C compressor using all stock toyota parts.

Happy Boosting
DEF

[toyotacrazy]

when I recieved my 3s-gte from japan someone took the a/c compressor off by putting about 10 nuts to make up for the compressor and the bracket and a smaller belt. If you guys want pics or more part #'s let me know.

[gtfc115]

im sorry, but what exactly does this do? mine is like your fist pic. how much do those parts cost? i have a squeaking noise coming from that pulley and this might fix it

[GT4WRC]

im sorry, but what exactly does this do?

how to properly delete the A/C compressor.

[Defgeph]

im sorry, but what exactly does this do? mine is like your fist pic. how much do those parts cost? i have a squeaking noise coming from that pulley and this might fix it

This will definatly take car of any sounds you may have. The pulley and the belt are a little more than $100. I'm very happy to have this new pulley and belt. It was a PITA to get the old belt on and off. This fits like a glove.

And, this is to completely remove the A/C compressor. No more guessing which belt should work, this is real world tested.

DEF

[Batman722]

glad to see you got everything sorted out with that

nice job RC King

[jgreening]

Good work. But, I have a question. When you are traction limited with speed anyway, why would you want to remove the air conditioning in your car?

[Defgeph]

I don't drive this car everyday, A/C isnt a big deal for me. If its hot out I have the windows down.

[jgreening]

Jeff:

Everyone who eliminates their A/C always says its no big deal. I can understand that argument if there is something to be gained by doing so because the "no big deal" part is always modified by the implied "because I can go faster without it". What have you gained here? You have indicated a number of times that traction limits your ability to take the car further, so how could this weight savings or the elimination of this power drain be helping you in any way?

Jay

[presure2]

jay, i dont think jeff did it for the weight savings, or power drain.
i think its more if just the fact he didnt feel like going thru the trouble of properly installing and refilling the A/C system when the car dont see daily driving action.
like he said, if its hot, just roll down the windows.
=)

[jgreening]

jay, i dont think jeff did it for the weight savings, or power drain.
i think its more if just the fact he didnt feel like going thru the trouble of properly installing and refilling the A/C system when the car dont see daily driving action.
like he said, if its hot, just roll down the windows.
=)

makes sense.

[Defgeph]

jay, i dont think jeff did it for the weight savings, or power drain.
i think its more if just the fact he didnt feel like going thru the trouble of properly installing and refilling the A/C system when the car dont see daily driving action.
like he said, if its hot, just roll down the windows.
=)

makes sense.

Yeah, thats about it in a nut shell. I had no use for the compressor. Rather leaving it there useless I chose to remove it.

[Chanh55]

What if you put the belt under the pully like stock instead of over it? What's the difference?

[playr158]

in the ST to run a/c you have to get a GT hardlines, compressor and i think a condenser(not sure if thats the same on both cars) but the ST hardlines bend differently...so if you don't want the hassle of finding the new GT parts for your ST swap then this is the way to do it...

nice one jeff!

[Defgeph]

Check out the first pic I posted, thats the belt back sided. The problem is when you delete the A/C compressor you have to find a shorter belt. So I found a shorter belt problem solved. So I thought.

The reason why the setup in Pic 1 doesnt work well, is because the belt that works that way is so short. You need to remove the alt to get the belt on. Not to mention the occasional skreeching from a wet belt.

So why not front side the belt on the stock pulley ? Sure it will work, but for how long ? I had the belt run like that but I was not happy. Say something were to happen the belt could pop off the pulley, there are no grooves holding it in place.

So that brings me to this set up. The belt is not loose, I dont have to remove the alt to get the belt on, I dont have those annoying sounds coming from the belt everytime it rains, I'm 100% positive the belt wont slip off the pulley.

I did this so I had one less thing to worry about breaking.

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

Nice job Jeff.

You should update your title to the "AC King".

[nightrider]

Try this setup, now you can run anything you wont with as much power as you like!!!

[x_itchy_b_x]

Pulley part number - 16603-88360
Belt - 99365-21010

This is a perfect way to delete the A/C compressor using all stock toyota parts.

woot just what i was looking for.

[alltracman78]

Nice job Jeff.

First time I have EVER seen anyone do it the right way.
Usually they just run the belt like you have it now, but with the smooth pulley.

Not something I would be comfortable with either......

[zipstrips]

in the ST to run a/c you have to get a GT hardlines, compressor and i think a condenser(not sure if thats the same on both cars) but the ST hardlines bend differently...so if you don't want the hassle of finding the new GT parts for your ST swap then this is the way to do it...

nice one jeff!

and it is quite a pain the ass finding everything!

[x_itchy_b_x]

finally ordered mine today. little over a 100 bucks like Jeff said.

[3rdgen3SGTE]

I doing like this with jobber belt....

[cibrit-]

Omg!! Thank you dep, this is exactly what I was looking for, because my belt is loose and hell, it's set up the same way as the first pic.

I was curious though, is there any place that I can get the pulley tensioner bolt, besides the junkyard? The one that looks like ------|-|-[]




EDIT:

Where did you order the parts from?

This post has been edited by cibrit-: Feb 23, 2009 - 11:27 PM

[presure2]

any toyota dealer can order these parts for you.

[cibrit-]

Alright, thanks!

[cibrit-]

Does the bolt come with the pulley? The one that tightens it onto the slot.

EDIT:

Took out double picture

This post has been edited by cibrit-: Feb 24, 2009 - 5:57 PM

[presure2]

as you can see in jeffs pics, there are 2 parts, 2 part #'s.
the belt, and the pully.
you take your old pully off, install this pully in its place with the old hardware, and install the new belt.
the nut and thru bolt are not included.

[cibrit-]

Well, in the pic I put up the nut and "through bolt" look a lot newer than the first pic he showed of "how not to do it". That's why I was wondering.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

i turned up an ally pulley when i removed my air con.
not a hard thing to machine if you can use a lathe.



even with how you had it set up before the belt wouldnt come off, remember the alternator pulley and the harmonic balancer have groves in them so the belt wouldnt slip.

at work we have some belt driven wheels that spin at 9000rpm and more and the pulleys are completly flat and the belt doesnt come off.

[cibrit-]

Sweeet, I just wish I had a lathe at my finger tips .. I know how to use it too.

[cibrit-]

How wide is the new belt?

[DEATH]

Jeff you rock - I'm trying to do this and fix a broken alt bolt in the dark at my job right now
Thanks for the visuals and the how to do it correctly when I get the time/money/light

[delusionz]

I just found a better way, F*ck your expensive pulley and F*ck the heavy cast iron bracket it sits on All you need is that shorter belt.



thats a brass bushing there holding the alternator up to tension the belt, my next step is to machine up a wedge piece with 2 holes to bolt together where the bottom alternator mounting holes now misalign

[delusionz]

3 years later LOL

[mi645]

so Ive researched the part numbers u guys provided it costs 199 usd. for the pulley and about 44 usd for the belt, im an employee of Toyota with my cost its 100 usd for the pulley and 24 for the belt, still outrageously pricey, so I found a 97 4 runner ac pulley, it cost me 20 bucks from an auto store local, and with an oem koyo bearing on it.

[mkernz22]

so Ive researched the part numbers u guys provided it costs 199 usd. for the pulley and about 44 usd for the belt, im an employee of Toyota with my cost its 100 usd for the pulley and 24 for the belt, still outrageously pricey, so I found a 97 4 runner ac pulley, it cost me 20 bucks from an auto store local, and with an oem koyo bearing on it.

Your discount is the same as the online prices so but yeah, it's still expensive for the pulley.

Can you post what the pulley part number is?


This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 12, 2014 - 3:03 PM

[mkernz22]

Just some food for thought.

My dad had to order a tensioner pulley for his S/C'd Grand Prix and I feel like it could work on our setup.
The middle is recessed 1/4" on both sides, where as the OEM one is flush.
That's one of the main differences to note.
And there is are 6 groves on this one compared to the 5 on the OEM, but that isn't a big deal.

Here are some pictures of it (with loose measurements).
About 1" wide, 3" in diameter, 5/8" in diameter for the bearing hole.
Since the pulley is about an 1" wide, and the middle is recessed 1/4" on each side, then the bearing is about 1/2" wide.



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Apr 5, 2014 - 10:25 AM