swap officially finished! (but still has minor probs), i just drove it.. WOOOO HOOO! Options

[brianforster]

ok guys, i consider my swap FINISHED now because i just drove it around the block, however there are some minor problems i noticed during the test drive

first it idled about 1800 rpms, then after driving it it jumped up to 3000

my boost gauge reads 20 vac at idle so i assume no vacuum leaks

my power steering doesnt work, this confuses me because everything is hooked up

its hard to get it into gear, in fact when i first started it it would not go into gear, then it ended up going into reverse with some force (no grinding though) the car would lurch forward when trying to go into first and reverse when trying to go into reverse. my friend told me to re-bleed the clutch but before i went to do that i went for one more try and it finally went in, the shifting seems to get smoother the more i play with it so maybe it has something to do with the tranny being sitting bone dry for the past few months?

at idle my motor shakes a bit, and by a bit i mean that even with my not so vast experience with cars i know it should not do this.

btw tomorrow i will have pics and vids of everything, and ill start a before and after thread!

edit: jeff, how do you drive withot power steering man, i could hardly reverse into the driveway!

This post has been edited by brianforster: May 6, 2006 - 6:34 PM

[playr158]

make sure your powersteering lines are in the right direction
but glad to hear you got her running around the block!

[brianforster]

power steering is a leak in the high pressure line, right before dark i added more fluid and it shot out of the pressure line everywhere! ahh

another thing is does the ST radiator have a coolant temp sensor? if so its definitly not in the same spot as the GT radiator cause we looked at chuckys and found where it went and there was no spot for it on my radiator or radiator fans, so now i just have a plug coming out of that front relay box doing nothing, what should i do with it, and do i need it?

[brianforster]

update: on a cold start it idles at about 2000 then slowly goes up to 3000 when its warmed up.

also when turning the car off it kind of shakes towards the end, im not sure if this is normal, it feels like the car feels when it stalls but this is just turning it off.

ive read up about high idles but i havent heard of any that get worse as the car warms up

also if you rev it up to like 3k it takes a really long time to get back down to the idle.

i think all these things might be related im just confused as to what they could all mean..

[lagos]

hey...noticed you called... i was out and didnt have my cell...

update: on a cold start it idles at about 2000 then slowly goes up to 3000 when its warmed up.

check your throttle cable. make sure its not stuck on anything . if all that checks out, bust out a timing light and check the timing. make sure you do it just like the bgb states.

also when turning the car off it kind of shakes towards the end, im not sure if this is normal, it feels like the car feels when it stalls but this is just turning it off.

any kind of shaking when starting or turning the motor mounts off is a result of warn motor mounts.

also if you rev it up to like 3k it takes a really long time to get back down to the idle.

sounds like a problem with the cable. its getting stuck or cant smoothly move .



congrads on your 1st test drive!

[brianforster]

front and rear mounts are new though and those are the important ones do you think the other 2 could cause that

[lagos]

if they are new, then they should be ok. get a vid of it, and i can tell you if what you are seeing is normal or not. you sure if bolted every mount in ?

the motor also could be starting up rought and shaking a bit becasue it hasnt been run in a long time. not to mention that its idleing at 3 grand when it gets shut off....so that might make it shake a bit too.

[brianforster]

also i found out the st radiator does not have a coolant temp sensor, and some threads about high idles have mentioned the coolant temp sensor.. but i know defgeph runs st radiator and im sure he doesnt idle at 3000 rpms..

tomorrow i think im going to get as much 93 octane gas i can find and mix it with the 4 month old 87 that was in the tank before, and i will put seafoam in the crankcase and suck it up through a vacuum line, let the car sit and start it up (let it smoke, etc etc) and see where im at after that.

[bigal004321]

Nice job with the swap,,and congrats on the first test drive!...I cant wait to get my swap done now.

Bigal

PS good luck with all the kinks you have!

[lagos]

also i found out the st radiator does not have a coolant temp sensor, and some threads about high idles have mentioned the coolant temp sensor.. but i know defgeph runs st radiator and im sure he doesnt idle at 3000 rpms..

tomorrow i think im going to get as much 93 octane gas i can find and mix it with the 4 month old 87 that was in the tank before, and i will put seafoam in the crankcase and suck it up through a vacuum line, let the car sit and start it up (let it smoke, etc etc) and see where im at after that.

there are 2 coolant temp sensors. the one that can give you a funny idle is on your motor (drivers side, green sensor) . the radiators coolant temp sensor ( the one your missing) has nothing to do with idle...only controls the radiator fans.


dont use any seafoam. its a fresh rebuild (or so they say) and it hasnt run in a while. just start it up a few times during the day and let it idle and come up to temp. the more u start it up, the better it should start to sound and run. seafoam is something you might want to try after a few months of driving.

This post has been edited by lagos: May 6, 2006 - 9:55 PM

[Defgeph]

Congrats man. You get used to no power steering.
Just take your time working all the bugs out. You'll get it.

[x_itchy_b_x]

congrats man!

[CelicaZR]

Congrat man
You've definitely come a long way
from when the car started to now.

[brianforster]

well today i put better gas in it and got some vids/pics (chucky will be workin on those tonight) it doesnt shake at idle anymore, and im pretty sure it doesnt jump up to 3000 rpms when warm anymore, but it still idles at like 1800-2200 and i have no idea why..

[Chanh55]

well today i put better gas in it and got some vids/pics (chucky will be workin on those tonight) it doesnt shake at idle anymore, and im pretty sure it doesnt jump up to 3000 rpms when warm anymore, but it still idles at like 1800-2200 and i have no idea why..

There's a little flat head screw you can adjust on the throttle to adjust the idle. Try tightening that. Also, make sure the throttle isn't stuck on something like Lagos said. For me I had a little rubber thing that got stuck everytime I stepped on the gas, so the cable kept getting stuck.

BTW congrats on your swap.

[brianforster]

can someone get me a pic of this screw? because on mine, i just have a very small nut at the bottom end of the throttle that has like a threaded rod going through it and it looks like if you turn it, it will hold push the rod out more and hold the throttle open, but right now its all the way screwed out so that the screw isnt touching the throttle and when the pedal is depressed the throttle is closing all the way

[brianforster]

also with the hood down after like 5 min of running the hood gets very very ver hot (when i sprayed the car down the water steamed off)

it gets hottest right over the tubular manifold

i dont think that is normal, what could that be from?

[Chanh55]

can someone get me a pic of this screw? because on mine, i just have a very small nut at the bottom end of the throttle that has like a threaded rod going through it and it looks like if you turn it, it will hold push the rod out more and hold the throttle open, but right now its all the way screwed out so that the screw isnt touching the throttle and when the pedal is depressed the throttle is closing all the way

Sorry I meant the Intake Manifold.
Look at the Intake Manifold for that screw. Should be on the left side.

[bojangles_8686]

Ok here are the pics and videos from today....





And here are the videos. I made a video with everything including music and titles but it is a little over 50MB because I dont know how to compress it. If anybody can help me out with that let me know.



I have 2 other videos, i will upload those later.

[jcbass7]

not sure if this would be true, but maybe the hood is getting so hot because the heat shield over the exhaust half of the turbo is missing?

[Hanyo]

did you cover that hole on your down pipe?
Is your inter-cooler piping touching the exhaust manafold?

[jcbass7]

oh yea hanyo has a good point. If that hole isn't covered i'd guess that the hot air blowing out against the hood would make it pretty hot

[playr158]

didn't i say you needed to close that o2 sensor hole?
might wanna hop on that really fast

[BBoYRuGGeD]

congrats on the swap man! hope you get all them minor issues sorted out asap w/o a problem

btw that IC piping up top seems pretty close to you exhaust manifold man...u might wunna move it away a lil

bboy

[lagos]

it gets hottest right over the tubular manifold

yeah, that pos manifold will make more heat and dosnt have a heatsheild, like the stock one. so yeah, i would imagine it gets very hot there.

can you use usendit.com to upload the videos? that site u used recompresses the vid into a pretty bad quality

[LewFX]

ill compress the vid

[brianforster]

if you notice both of the studs are broken on that hole, chuckys dad said he has easyouts at work so as soon as he brings those home im putting in new studs + my o2 sensor, im hoping this will resolve some of the problems.

god damn we did a good job on that intercooler piping

and no that 45 degree out of the TB does not touch the manifold, and will have even more clearance when i get the stock manifold from yungazzdriver, although i am thinking about going 90 degree out of the TB because that pipe gets real hot as it stands right now

[lagos]

you can keep it where it is and wrap it with exhaust wrap if you want. that will fix the problem

[f1yen]

[font=Tahoma]so is your car still idling high?, because i have had this problem b4, check the little throttle stop thing that will stop your throttle from chokin itself out, if that is a little out, it will give you the symtoms of it idling high, and decelling slowly, if its not that, have a person turn on the car, then cover the whole throttle body, with your palm of your hand, if it still runs, you have a leek somewhere. one one car i had redone the seals, the throttle body seal was slightly different from top to bottom, i had it upsidedown, and it had a small leak, it will idle high and rev down slowly, it also stayed running with the hand over the throttle body. something to think about

i wish i was "flyen"

[playr158]

so is your car still idling high?, because i have had this problem b4, check the little throttle stop thing that will stop your throttle from chokin itself out, if that is a little out, it will give you the symtoms of it idling high, and decelling slowly, if its not that, have a person turn on the car, then cover the whole throttle body, with your palm of your hand, if it still runs, you have a leek somewhere. one one car i had redone the seals, the throttle body seal was slightly different from top to bottom, i had it upsidedown, and it had a small leak, it will idle high and rev down slowly, it also stayed running with the hand over the throttle body. something to think about

i wish i was "flyen"

you know the car will still run even if you cover the throttle body with your hand....that doesn't tell you anything...if it does shut off you got a problem..
that and you know you can't touch a TB inlet on a turbocharged car...IC pipe is in the way..and go ahead and try to stick your hand into a turbo, haha that'll be fun

This post has been edited by playr158: May 10, 2006 - 12:33 AM

[brianforster]

plus 2nd gen engine will not run without the AFM in the loop

[easternpiro1]

good job bryan!! im glad everything worked out! who woulda knew you would get the car running so quick!! imma tell my boys to look at the vids asap...show them what a BEAST looks like...(the vids arent pulling up on this comp, but when we have our meet tonight i'll tell them about it!)

[brianforster]

it ended up being the throttle cable was too tight, and was mounted a little crooked so it was too tight + leaned to the left, after installing DG's bracket and loosening the cable it idles at 1100-1200 now sounds MUCH better and most of the problems seemed to be because of it (shaking when turning the car off)

once it warms up it starts to go down to 800-900 and then i think its not getting the o2 readout so it pulls back up.

still have a power steering leak, that will be fixed tomorrow hopefully.

what temperature is the 3sgte thermostat? how much diff from the 7afe one? because my temp gauge in the car barely reads higher when its warmed up, we tested the sensor and it does work, my friends just assume its because the 3sgte has a higher temp thermostat.

[morbiddelusions]

lookin good

This post has been edited by morbiddelusions: May 12, 2006 - 10:07 PM

[lagos]

the temp gauge should sit around the middle when warmed up .


if you going to replace it, make sure u get a brand new toyota one with a new gasket.

[brianforster]

what needs to be replaced the gauge or the thermostat?

[lagos]

what needs to be replaced the gauge or the thermostat?

i dont really know what your seeing... but based on what you said i guess the thermostat.

[brianforster]

how long should it take to reach the center?

[Rjb23]

Depends when I first did my swap it took for ever for it to reach the center. Now it takes about 5 mins or so.

[BBoYRuGGeD]

^^^ yap same...about 5 min or less with mine on a nice warm day. anywhere from 5-10 min when its cold out.

bboy

[DG_Performance]

i highly recomend the trd lower thermostat for better cooling!!!
i think it is a 160 degree
dg