Clicking when I turn the wheel, yet another steering thread... Options

[6gsillyca]

I have a clicking/rubbing sound coming from my front drivers wheel area. It seems to have gotten worse lately. At first I only noticed it when I turned the wheel all the way to the left (U-turn). Now I notice it with any slight turn of the wheel to the left, and even going straight sometimes. It get louder hte more the wheel is turned, and is more frequent at higher speeds (closer clicks). It happens every time I turn the wheel.

I would guess CV joint, but I am not very knowledgeable with suspension parts/troubleshooting. Any help?

[6th_celi_vert]

drive axle/CV joint


And yes, they suck to change.

[bccentaur3]

Yeah they do suck to change. Get it changed asap. I recommend doing the whole assembly. Don't go to the dealer to get it done, do it yourself. I went for the passenger side, since I had no access to tools and they raped me for 4 hours of labor. 300 dollars. When I got home from college I decided to change the driver side axle myself since its about to go, and it only cost me 110 for 4 hours of labor. Just take your time and get the Chilton manual for sure.

[6gsillyca]

Is the drive axle and the cv joint the same thing? What tools do you need (access to?)

[bccentaur3]

The cv joint is part of the half shaft (drive axle). Well you are technically suppose to use an axle puller, but I didn't. Just go to the library and check out a Chilon Manual. Look into the transmission part of the book, I promise you theres step by step info in doing this. O since its the driver side you'll need to drain your tranny fluid. Tools you'll need a Socket to remove the hub from the axle. It was a B*tch for me to get it out.

This post has been edited by bccentaur3: Apr 9, 2007 - 1:38 AM

[6gsillyca]

Its a 27mm nut right? I just checked the bgb on celicatech and it shows the removal and installation of axle shafts, but doesnt mention anything about the cv joint.

I dont think Im going to have much luck finding a chiltons/haynes around here. 6gc are pretty rare up where I live (I would guess >20 in a city of a million+) so I doubt libraries/auto stores would stock this volume. I'll have a look around though.

[undasighted]

got my manual on amazon for 6 bucks. and it usually doesnt matter how rare the car is, most libraries either have or can get almost any car manual you're looking for.

[6gsillyca]

I just checked amazon.ca and am looking at 7-8 weeks for shipping...so Ill check a few libraries out today.

edit: just checked again and is now showing 4-7 wks



Can/SHOULD I still drive the car? I know it would make it worse, but what would happen if my cv gives? Would my axle fall off type of thing, or would steering left just be harder?

This post has been edited by 6gsillyca: Apr 9, 2007 - 1:00 PM

[undasighted]

7-8 weeks!?!?!? There has to be quicker shipping out there.

[bccentaur3]

Dude if its clicking and pulling to one side or if your steering wheel is shaking, please don't drive it. You'll end up broken on the road and won't be able to move at all. Then its going to rattle and clunk rwally loud and you're just going to get pissed off at yourself. I'm sure you don't have long until that thing gives on you. Take a weekend go to a library and I'm sure they'll have it. I don't think the chilton will tell you how big of a socket. Maybe it is 27mm. Let me know what your situation is, I don't want your celi to go down the way mine did and having to tow it and pay to get it fixed. I am fortunate enough to get to the driver side before it gave out on me and fixed it myself.

[alltracman78]

Its a 27mm nut right? I just checked the bgb on celicatech and it shows the removal and installation of axle shafts, but doesnt mention anything about the cv joint.

Don't bother just replacing the joint.
Outers are a major PITA to get off anyways.

Just replace the whole axle. The CV joint[s] are part of the axle shaft...
Use the BGB.

It's a 30mm nut.

[6gsillyca]

Its not that bad yet (shaking/pulling) I might have to drive it a few days, but I hope I can get to it before it breaks and leaves me stranded somewhere. I hate to say it, but I might have to leave it at another shop...I just dont have the time to do the work myself, and I need a car asap.

None of the libraries/shops around here carry chiltons. I did manage to find and pick up a haynes manual. I would imagine they are similar (us = chilton, canada = haynes) as I have never seen a chiltons locally...

Would I just go to toyota/auto store and ask for a celica drivers side axle shaft, and get everything I need? Would a new cv already be installed? Im not too good in that area yet.

[Valo666]

yea..i actually just bought a new one for my passanger side. If you have carquest autoparts out there and are a registered mechanic or apprentice, go there...its like $210 or so, but when you return your old one the price comes down to $112...so u get like $100 or so back.

[alltracman78]

Would a new cv already be installed? Im not too good in that area yet.

Just replace the whole axle. The CV joint[s] are part of the axle shaft...

Not to be a dick man, but you really should read what people post to help you.....

[6gsillyca]

I did read that part...just because it is part of the axle doesnt necessarily mean that everything will be installed together. What I was thinking when I wrote that was, maybe I'll get a box of shaft pieces/bearings/snaprings/joints whatever and I'd still need to put it together. Like I said, Im not too good in this area yet. All I wanted to know is if I order a "drivers side axle shaft" would I just get a whole piece that would bolt onto the car?

Sorry to be a tard

[bccentaur3]

If you just order piece by piece its going to be hard as hell to install. When you can order the whole axle assembly and install it as is, thats if your seal is still good. If not you'll have to go to napa to get the seal. When you order the assembly its ready to be installed, nothing else.

Oh btw, if there is an Auto Zone there go there. The driver side axle was 130 and I returned my busted one and got 30 back. You also get a life time warrenty on ther part.

This post has been edited by bccentaur3: Apr 9, 2007 - 11:03 PM

[6gsillyca]

Thanks, I wasnt sure if it would come all assembled in one piece, ready to be installed...
What seal, how would I know if its bad?

No autozone or carquest autoparts, I have napa, auto value and partsource to choose from.

Did you take back the whole axle? Which part is it that has the core charge?

[bccentaur3]

When you remove your axle you bring them the whole assembly. At first you pay them the money you recieve your parts and install it. For example you pay 200 for your axle. The core price is 50, when you bring your busted axle you get 50 bucks back. When you pull your axle out there will be a ring rubber seal. If its good, then don't replace it, but I recommend you replacing it because you don't want to repeat the whole axle job when your seal goes bad. I'd go to all of them and ask what the prices for the axle assembly and core charge.

[6gsillyca]

I was going to call around tomorrow. So the core charge is on the whole axle, not just a specific component? Thanks for that.

Does the axle shaft have both cv joints? I was reading the haynes and it talks about an inner and outter cv joint. Which one am I looking to replace? Am I looking for the inner or outter axle shaft?

[bccentaur3]

You will be replacing the entire assembly. You or your mechanic will pull out the entire left axle and replace it. Don't worry about your cv joints they are gone trust me. Just replace the entire left assembly and whats done is done. You won't have to worry any more.

[6gsillyca]

So the axle shaft consists of both the inner and outter axles as well as the inner and outter cv joints? I was going to replace the whole thing, but then read that there are inner/outter joints and wasnt sure which I needed to replace, and which were included in the part I would be getting.

[bccentaur3]

The cv joints and all that stuff is already assembled in the axle assembly. You won't have to tinker with anything else, just pop out the old and in with the new.

[6gsillyca]

Well I had the cv shaft replaced but the car is still making noise.

I dropped it off at a shop last night, mainly because Im pressed for time, but also the price. The part cost ~$200 from the parts stores, and the shop only charged me $250 for parts and labor plus I have (parts and labor) warranty...

The noise isnt as bad as it was before (I dont hear it going straight, only when I actually turn left) but is still there. The shop told me it was because of rusted rotors. The rotors are rusted, but I can only hear the noise from the one side (drivers front) and ONLY when I am turning left.

I dont understand how rust on the rotors would be making noise. Wouldnt any rust on the rotor be scraped off after a few brakes? The only permanent rust is on the hub, but that shouldnt be making noise, should it? And if it is rust on the rotor, why is it only making noise when I turn?

Please help again

[bccentaur3]

The clicking noise should have stopped. WTF man, this is pretty messed up. Okay when you slam into 1st then 2nd does the car like shake hardcore?

[6gsillyca]

No, no shaking. Noise sounds like rust on rotors (on/off scraping sound), but I dont know how rust could make noise...

[bccentaur3]

Me neither. If it were the rotors I would think it would skreech. What about warped rotors?

[6gsillyca]

I would think warped rotors would make you shake/vibrate when the brakes are applied.

No, rust isnt hard enough to make a screech sound. A stone or something stuck between the pad and rotor could make a screeching sound.

Rust sounds more like a scraping. If you have ever turned/machined rotors then you would know the type of scraping, and how it is inconsistent, not a constant scraping sound. Thats the sound I am hearing when I turn the wheel.

[bccentaur3]

So basically the issue all along were the rotors and not the axle? I feel like such an ass, but you can't take chances. I freaking broke my axle on my way back to college (2 hours away). Better safe then sorry, but if the problem had nothing to do with the axle, I am sooooo sorry bro.

[6gsillyca]

I dont know if they were the rotors or not. I dont understand how even if they are rusted, they will be making noise. The rusted contact part should wear off with a few brakes.

The "scraping" noise has been there for the past few months. Earlier this week it got louder, and more consistent, as well as it occured with less turning of the wheel (I could hear it going straight, as opposed to only hearing it during a uturn before). Changing out the axle did somewhat fix this porblem. I can only hear the noise when I turn the wheel again (dont hear it going straight)

And it is better to be safe than sorry. Im almost glad I didnt spend 10+ hrs trying to do this myself only to find out that the axle wasnt the problem...

[bccentaur3]

LOL, I'm glad you didn't.

We totally need a brake expert here to help this problem. I still don't get how the clicking noise is coming from your brakes. Hows your frame and suspension looking?

[6gsillyca]

I wouldnt call it a clicking noise anymore, more of a scraping, and Im not sure that it is even coming from the brakes.

[bccentaur3]

hmm. Thats weird man. If you're able to stop fine and nothing shakes drive on it until the true sign of the scrapping comes up.

[hurley97]

could be warped rotors, if it isn't warped that bad it won't shake while braking.

if its the noise I'm thinking of, my car is doing the same thing. if it were consistent like yours seems to be I would check my wheel bearing. only thing is my car doesn't do it in a single particular situation, like only when I turn to the left at a certain speed. sometimes I hear it from the front right when I turn sometimes I don't, other times I hear it from the rear when I'm going straight but again not all the time, it's very random.

[bccentaur3]

6gsillyca If the rotors aren't warped like you've stated then take hurleys advice and check your wheel bearings.

[yozef]

What about the top strut mount? No one mentioned these. There is a bearing in there and if its blown it will make similar noises especially when turning and you are outting load on it.

[bccentaur3]

It had to be one or the other. Either the drivetrain components or suspension and since the drivetrain is fixed whats left is suspension.

[6gsillyca]

could be warped rotors, if it isn't warped that bad it won't shake while braking.

if its the noise I'm thinking of, my car is doing the same thing. if it were consistent like yours seems to be I would check my wheel bearing. only thing is my car doesn't do it in a single particular situation, like only when I turn to the left at a certain speed. sometimes I hear it from the front right when I turn sometimes I don't, other times I hear it from the rear when I'm going straight but again not all the time, it's very random.

If it was warped rotors, then i should be able to hear something when I apply the brakes (in theory, same should apply to rusted rotors, no?)

Do you know what your issues are?


What is "outting load"?

What would I look for in either a bad wheel bearing or top strut mount bearing.


This post has been edited by 6gsillyca: Apr 13, 2007 - 2:28 AM

[THCelica]

This is random, but, the dust shield behind your brake discs! Have you thought of checking those. The could be shifting just slighty and rubbing the backside of the rotors. It is worth a shot, you never know. But, as far as the scraping thing goes. If its not your brakes, it would have to be suspension or a something loose near the driveline. Underbody plastic, or maybe even your brake hose/cable is being pinched against the rotor.

[hurley97]

look for dried up or non-existent grease in the bearing. you have to take the caliper and brake disc off and I think you may have to take the hub off, I can't remember if you can see the bearing with the hub still on or not. sorry I can't find a picture.

with the strut mount, first check the top nuts on each side are tightened the same amount then check to see if the strut or spring are loose (if you can twist them by hand). you can take out the whole strut assembly and visually inspect the top mount. I would say this was unlikely if you haven't recently had work done on your suspension.

also, like THCelica said, check little things like the back plate behind the disc and just make sure everything is tight in the area thats making the noise.



edit:
as for my issues, when it started I would hear the noise only when I turned (in either direction). then it got very random, it was still only when I turned but not every time I turned and it didn't matter if the corner was fast, slow, left or right and seemingly came from a different wheel each time. it's since progressed to making the noise when I'm driving straight slowly, but only for less than a min and not the whole time but again this does not happen all the time. weird. I might just change my wheel bearings next time I do brakes, I knew one of them was going bad but the rest of them were fine.

This post has been edited by hurley97: Apr 13, 2007 - 9:19 AM