Brake problem driving me crazy!, UPDATE PG2!!!!!!!!!!!! Options

[Justin]

Ok, I recently decided to replace my master cylinder in my car because A. There was a lack of pedal pressure and B. I could not get any fluid to bleed out of the front right or left rear brakes. After I replaced the master cylinder with a reman I am still having the same problem. I made sure to reinstall all gaskets and O-rings, and to properly bleed the master cylinder before install. I have gone as far as removing the proportioning valve to make sure it still worked properly and it did and had no clogs. So as it sits right now I have good pressure to the front left and right rear brakes but no pressure to the right front or left rear brakes.

The master cylinder is providing pressure to the proportioning valve as proved by removing the line at the prop valve. I also sprayed all of the lines with windex and tried to find a leak but have not been able to find one. also checked the lines for any kinks but found nothing. Any ideas?

This post has been edited by Justin: May 6, 2007 - 12:58 AM

[jc47]

You say you checked at the input to the proportioning valve, but did you check the outputs? The valve can get stuck and you will only get pressure on one side.

[Justin]

I blew through it and air passed through all ports

[toyotacrazy]

Ok, I recently decided to replace my master cylinder in my car because A. There was a lack of pedal pressure and B. I could not get any fluid to bleed out of the front right or left rear brakes. After I replaced the master cylinder with a reman I am still having the same problem. I made sure to reinstall all gaskets and O-rings, and to properly bleed the master cylinder before install. I have gone as far as removing the proportioning valve to make sure it still worked properly and it did and had no clogs. So as it sits right now I have good pressure to the front left and right rear brakes but no pressure to the right front or left rear brakes.

The master cylinder is providing pressure to the proportioning valve as proved by removing the line at the prop valve. I also sprayed all of the lines with windex and tried to find a leak but have not been able to find one. also checked the lines for any kinks but found nothing. Any ideas?

Did you have someone stepping on the brakes while you open a bleeder valve?

[Justin]

yes, i even bought a vacuum pump to bleed them. It works great on the two that have pressure but wont even pull any fluid at all out of the other two.

[jc47]

Do you have ABS?

[toyotacrazy]

Do you have ABS?

If you dont have ABS I would guess that its another bad master cylinder. You did have the person in the car pump the petel, Hold it, then open the bleeder valve, Right?

[Justin]

Yes I did. My dads friend is the service manager at the mitsubishi dealership so the car is going there tomorrow.

[Justin]

Well turns out the master cylinder I got is not good. Autozone FTL. And apparently this part is close to impossible to get anywhere else. Looks like ill be stuck driving our blazer thats leaking coolant like crazy and for some reason uses about 15 dollars a day in gas.

[toyotacrazy]

Well turns out the master cylinder I got is not good. Autozone FTL. And apparently this part is close to impossible to get anywhere else. Looks like ill be stuck driving our blazer thats leaking coolant like crazy and for some reason uses about 15 dollars a day in gas.

can you get one from toyota?

[jmastaniza]

or a recycling yard like T.A.P.

[alltracman78]

Well turns out the master cylinder I got is not good. Autozone FTL. And apparently this part is close to impossible to get anywhere else. Looks like ill be stuck driving our blazer thats leaking coolant like crazy and for some reason uses about 15 dollars a day in gas.

can you get one from toyota?

Exactly.

This is why it's worth it to spend the extra $$ and buy OEM to begin with....

[Justin]

well they got me an acdelco one the same day I took the car in and it works fine......for now at least.

[alltracman78]

AC Delco is a Toyota supplier now....

I don't know whether to be scared or glad.

[Justin]

AC Delco is a Toyota supplier now....

I don't know whether to be scared or glad.

LOL its better than autozone (Fenco) atleast. My brake pedal still goes to far down. I've tried bleeding the brakes (properly) but that didnt really do anything. It seems as if when you first step on the pedal the front brakes bite but the rear doesn't engage until about halfway down. I think it could be that the rear shoes are worn so far that the brake cylinder has to travel so far. So I am going to have a look at that tomorrow. Is it also a possibility that the front calipers may not be good? I did get them from a junkyard when my stock ones were sticking. I think they are from a GT and I dont know if that makes a difference. They fit perfect and don't leak or stick. Any suggestions?

[toyotacrazy]

AC Delco is a Toyota supplier now....

I don't know whether to be scared or glad.

LOL its better than autozone (Fenco) atleast. My brake pedal still goes to far down. I've tried bleeding the brakes (properly) but that didnt really do anything. It seems as if when you first step on the pedal the front brakes bite but the rear doesn't engage until about halfway down. I think it could be that the rear shoes are worn so far that the brake cylinder has to travel so far. So I am going to have a look at that tomorrow. Is it also a possibility that the front calipers may not be good? I did get them from a junkyard when my stock ones were sticking. I think they are from a GT and I dont know if that makes a difference. They fit perfect and don't leak or stick. Any suggestions?

adjust out your rear shoes. Even a little bit of clearence can make a big difference.

[Justin]

Ok so i replaced the rear shoes and adjusted them out and still no difference.

[Jared95]

What to do for spring setup on a 95 celica ST?

really what to do with the car just bought it ideas?

already put 2.25" piping w/ magnaflow tip

rims /tires

[Bitter]

Ok so i replaced the rear shoes and adjusted them out and still no difference.

how about the rear wheel cylinders, those should be changed as well since they probably leak and can acutally when worn suck air into the system!

This post has been edited by Bitter: Apr 25, 2007 - 1:33 PM

[alltracman78]

Dude, don't just throw parts at it.
Check the wheel cylinders.
It will be obvious if they are bad.
A slight bit of dampness IS ok.
If they are soaked, they are leaking.

How far out did you adjust them?
Ideally they should be adjusted out until you JUST hear the drum rub the shoes, then back off a notch or two.

Did you check/adjust the booster push rod to master cyl clearance?
There should be less than .5mm clearance.

[Justin]

Dude, don't just throw parts at it.
Check the wheel cylinders.
It will be obvious if they are bad.
A slight bit of dampness IS ok.
If they are soaked, they are leaking.

How far out did you adjust them?
Ideally they should be adjusted out until you JUST hear the drum rub the shoes, then back off a notch or two.

Did you check/adjust the booster push rod to master cyl clearance?
There should be less than .5mm clearance.

The wheel cylinders are not even damp at all. I also adjusted them exactly the way you described. I havent checked the clearance between the booster push rod to the master cylinder yet. How would you go about doing that? It seems that as soon as you push the pedal down the brakes do start to hit the rotor so I dont know if that would be it. I looked up the part numbers for the GT calipers and ST calipers and they are different. And I think I may have gotten GT calipers when I replaced mine instead of ST calipers. Maybe the GT caliper takes more fluid to move the cylinders in them? I have had this problem after I changed the calipers but just assumed something else was wrong.

[toyotacrazy]

Dude, don't just throw parts at it.
Check the wheel cylinders.
It will be obvious if they are bad.
A slight bit of dampness IS ok.
If they are soaked, they are leaking.

How far out did you adjust them?
Ideally they should be adjusted out until you JUST hear the drum rub the shoes, then back off a notch or two.

Did you check/adjust the booster push rod to master cyl clearance?
There should be less than .5mm clearance.

The wheel cylinders are not even damp at all. I also adjusted them exactly the way you described. I havent checked the clearance between the booster push rod to the master cylinder yet. How would you go about doing that? It seems that as soon as you push the pedal down the brakes do start to hit the rotor so I dont know if that would be it. I looked up the part numbers for the GT calipers and ST calipers and they are different. And I think I may have gotten GT calipers when I replaced mine instead of ST calipers. Maybe the GT caliper takes more fluid to move the cylinders in them? I have had this problem after I changed the calipers but just assumed something else was wrong.

Are the caliper slides moving freely when you had it apart? Are both calipers holding when depressing the petel?

[Justin]

Are the caliper slides moving freely when you had it apart? Are both calipers holding when depressing the petel?

Yeah they are.

[Justin]

Well never mind the caliper slide on the passenger side wont budge at all. I've tried soaking it in pb blaster, tried to turn the pin bolt head to free it, broke a piece off of my c-clamp trying to push it in to free it (its stuck somewhere in the middle), and hitting it and its housing with a hammer. Any Ideas on how to get it unstuck. I was thinking ab heating the bracket up to try to get the hole to expand. I don't know where I can just get the bracket besides a junkyard. And well that will just mess up again.