I have a Engine/Transmission question.., Car is put back together, missing some parts... Options

[njccmd2002]

So i decide to fix my clutch. and other things

This is you you pay the big bucks....



see the intake....
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
1788174520 $73.39 $0.00 $55.78
Engine / transaxle - Air intake - Hose - Federal
Federal - 2.2 liter 1994 - 1995

holy cra* anyone can think of a quick fix. or selling one?

(deleted images)

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Oct 10, 2007 - 9:36 AM

[njccmd2002]

im stuck getting the axles out, any suggestions im completely stuck. Ive researched, look at the prybar thing.

Im really scared to mess up the tranny or the halfshaft. How much force should i use?

i have tried in here



and here



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Oct 4, 2007 - 11:12 AM

[njccmd2002]

bump anyone?

[devilsden97]

use enough to get it out.

This post has been edited by devilsden97: Oct 4, 2007 - 11:26 AM

[njccmd2002]

use enough to get it out.

well, thats what i thought but the guy at advance autoparts told me if i use too much, i could damage the aluminum housing of the tranny. And if you looke closely at the first pic of the shaft there is some damage on the edges.

Also where would u put the pry. As in pic 1 or pic 2....

[njccmd2002]

bump for another opinion. I hat to see my car in jacks.....

Would i crack the housing if i apply too much force...

[Harold_Fastwaker]

bump for another opinion. I hat to see my car in jacks.....

Would i crack the housing if i apply too much force...

I doubt it. I didnt use a crowbar on mine. I ended up using a large flat head screw driver.

[njccmd2002]

bump for another opinion. I hat to see my car in jacks.....

Would i crack the housing if i apply too much force...

I doubt it. I didnt use a crowbar on mine. I ended up using a large flat head screw driver.

did you place the screwdriver like my first pic....

[GT95-HE351]

this is kinda thing you learn as you go and if u **** one up u wont do it as hard that time. but use more force also try pushing it in hard then using the bar to pry it out. Or put something around the crow bar ( around the part that touches your tranny)-ie a rag or a thin wood scrap and get it out. it most likely wont hurt ur tranny

sorry for horrible puncuation

[lubu]

just pry the crap out of it...most of the axel wont come out easily without giving a good fight...I kinda bent the round metal bit when i pried mine out...

oh screaming and swearings help too...

This post has been edited by lubu: Oct 4, 2007 - 3:49 PM

[njccmd2002]

1 hour update!!!

Nil, Nada, Nothiing!!!!!!!!! This is the drivers side. Do i have to unbolt something? i know i alredy messed up the seal....


How in the hec* i get it aout. A blowtorch?


i know im not hercules. But i cant do anything stronger!!!!

[alltracman78]

Don't screw up the bolts.
Replace the axle seal, in case you damaged it while doing this.
You already have damaged the dust shield [copper colored piece by the screwdriver that is mangled]. Not the most important part of the trans, but it keeps the seal in better condition....

I don't pry, I usually use a really large prybar, set the edge in the groove on the inner joint, and hit the $hit out of it with a hammer.
This should pop it out.

[njccmd2002]

Well its out. Can the dust shield be replaced? Or i need to rebent?

Im on the process of taking the RH out. But the cat pipe is in the way. According to the Chilton manual. Man i never realized how much Sh*** you have to take outto fix all this.

well i hve a list of all the parts that are non reusable. like gaskets, bolts. man the list is good. I have the nuts of the pipe in WD 40. So i can take it out. It really is a Bit**.

Ill keep posted. So far 1 full day with no car. 10 hours total. 4 to pry the **** axel. sorry for al my french. i am

[njccmd2002]

got most of it out. Dropping tranny tomorrow.

Ill stop bu dealer to order the seal of the left axle. On the right side is there something i need to replace?

whats it called? is it the retainer 33131 - 12080. I guess? any opinons?

[mobsterk]

u really dont need the duster.. i did the same work on my celica.. u can get the seal from any auto parts i bought mine at auto zone.. just make sure you take ur axel to see if it fits back, other wise u will have problems with transmission leakin.. and when u put it back use a piece of wood to hit the tip of the axel so it goes in, the wood will help when u hit it back in place with a the hammer and will not mess up the threats..if u have any question let me know.. im a mechanic so i know wazup lol

[njccmd2002]

u really dont need the duster.. i did the same work on my celica.. u can get the seal from any auto parts i bought mine at auto zone.. just make sure you take ur axel to see if it fits back, other wise u will have problems with transmission leakin.. and when u put it back use a piece of wood to hit the tip of the axel so it goes in, the wood will help when u hit it back in place with a the hammer and will not mess up the threats..if u have any question let me know.. im a mechanic so i know wazup lol

Ill have a question , when i get home

ill post a pic later. I have a leak. although it looks it could be right side tranny oil. Its a mess, once i clean up ill post it later the evening...

[soulshadow]

You just get under it and hold the end of the pry bar against the drive axel at an angle. Then with a rubber mallet you pound on the end of your pry bar and it will knock out the axel from the tranny you might have to rotate axel in order to knock it out nicely. If your actually prying the axel from your tranny, your on your way to a fast problem.

This post has been edited by soulshadow: Oct 6, 2007 - 12:29 AM

[njccmd2002]

update!!!!!!!!!!!



got most of it out but i have question. Will this support the engine. I have 2 2X6 together.

and a 2 ton jackstand holding the pan. pics below... advice before i unmount?

[6strngs]

the 2 ton jackstand by itself can hold the engine, at least it did for me, cause you still have one engine mount holding the engine too.

yeah, this job was the biggest pain in the neck ever for me. I hope I never have to do it again!

[njccmd2002]

rear mount is a bit**


almost there....

[SinisterWhisper]

I am just now finishing up changing my manual tranny. IT IS THE BIGGEST PITA, I prefer working on the 914 to doing this, but I learned a lot so next time I could probably do it in half the time with a quarter of the swearing.

[njccmd2002]

updates. I have never learned more about cars. Im on the medical field...

so this is my first time....

pics, pics. Should i resurface the flywheel?

[njccmd2002]

well i think the flywheel needs to be resurfaced. all blue scratches.

the rear main seal seems ok, the leak is not from there. Should I change it.

Other options for oil leaks while im down there, how do i know if its the oil pan? See pics...

[6strngs]

well i think the flywheel needs to be resurfaced. all blue scratches.

the rear main seal seems ok, the leak is not from there. Should I change it.

Other options for oil leaks while im down there, how do i know if its the oil pan? See pics...

[img]http://www.picpile.net/ims/pic_451HTlSd/25520.jpg

[img]http://www.picpile.net/ims/pic_451HTlSd/25522.jpg

[img]http://www.picpile.net/ims/pic_451HTlSd/25521.jpg

if you see oil gathering up on the tips of the bolts for the pan, that's usually an indication it's leaking. it could also be something simple like a valve cover gasket. could also be the front crankshaft seal or camshaft seal

you don't need to change the rear main seal. but it's pretty easy to do so if you decide you want to while you've got everything out already. but for sure get that flywheel resurfaced or just get a fidanza or clutchmasters one

when you put it all back together, can you take a picture of where this wire is supposed to go? the big one with the plastic covering:


This post has been edited by 6strngs: Oct 7, 2007 - 2:57 AM

[presure2]

DO the rear main.
whens the next time you plan on having your tranny off?
yes, have the flywheel resurfaced.
be sure to tell the machine shop that it is a "stepped" flywheel.

6 that wire attaches to the power lug on the starter.

[WannabeGT4]

I've used a ton of electrical tape to fix an induction hose before. It's been a great "temporary" fix for about a year now.

[ecaddiction]

I've used a ton of electrical tape to fix an induction hose before. It's been a great "temporary" fix for about a year now.

Same here Ducktape spray painted black...

[njccmd2002]

ja, duck tape painted black sounds nice.

Resting rithg now. did a little bit of cleaning but cuople questions?

1. Threadlock for Flywheel? red or blue....
2. Does the rear main seal just pry out? same as tranny seals? or do i have to take somethign out.
3. FIPG, how long does it take to dry, and i put the oil?

I have a theory... dripping oil from the pan, hits the right axle than whoooshes all over the place. I think just by looking underneath...

[6strngs]

6 that wire attaches to the power lug on the starter.

seriously? cause that's the wire that that fried my wiring harness when I connected it, but if that's really where it goes then I had it in the right place. I must've had the starter grounded or something.

btw, I've traced that wire and it goes straight to battery positive, which is why connecting it to ground would fry some wires, but also the reason that the only wires that ended up being burnt on my harness were the battery cables and just a couple others had the insulation melted off cause of the near-by heat.

[lagos]

use blue thread lock. red stuff is a bit too strong. torque the flywheel bolts to 65lb.
replace the rear main seal, but do it very carefully. you dont want to scratch anything while your in there. normal haynes manual has a good write up on it.

clean the resurfaced flywheel and pressure plate with brake cleaner and paper towels before you put the clutch disk on. make sure to keep things very clean, and that you remove all the oil thats on the flywheel from the factory.

make sure you use HIGH TEMP grease to lube up the throw out bearing, input shaft, and pivot point on the the fork.

This post has been edited by lagos: Oct 7, 2007 - 12:51 PM

[njccmd2002]

the oil pan i out. the bolts were kind of loose goosey. now that i have it out. can i just unbolt the thing for the rear mail seal. It came with gaskets and everything. kind of hard to do it otherwise.


regarding FIPG, is it the brand, or just kind of the generic name. i foudn some suff like it for 9 bucks on advance auto parts....

how much torque do the oil pans bolts get?

how much for the bolts here



only 5 k miles are mine...



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Oct 7, 2007 - 6:21 PM

[njccmd2002]

who retails Syncromesh? its about 3 qts right?

im thinking of this



remanufactured from 34 $ plus core. I have the old. its cheaper than resurfacing (60$)

with warranty and easy...

and no, i will not be turboing or anything in the next 5 yewars.. The most ill do is headers and intake... and paint..

This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Oct 7, 2007 - 9:21 PM

[6strngs]

who retails Syncromesh? its about 3 qts right?

penzoil. and I believe it's 2.7 qts. at least, that's what haynes manual says.

[giang723]

how's your clutch btw? i had mine changed by the mechanic at the same time when i changed my tranny, save you the hassle of taking it apart again next time round

[giang723]

Also perhaps you can make this a how to, it's awesome as you already have pics

[njccmd2002]

Also perhaps you can make this a how to, it's awesome as you already have pics

i will once i get it straight. its just time consuming. am doing lots of things while im down there too as well.

I have problems with one motor mount. I know it wont last longer than 6 months, but i cant find anyone who sells this....

ill post more pics as i go...

[trdss111]

so if you call drive shafts axels what do you call the axels. strange...
boot/trunk
tranny/gearbox
bonnet/hood
shocks/strut
discs/rotors
e-break/handbrake
muffler/backbox
manifold/header
this gets confusing

[trdss111]

k jus looked at the pics and didn read the posts so sorry if im repeating somone but it really looks like your cv book is wrecked that explains the oil on the block too

[njccmd2002]

No, the cv boot is ok, just looks like that cuz of the pic. but thanks...


I am finally done putting things back together to torque.

But guess what!!! i have to change 6 wheel studs, that the threads went bad!!!!


My overall experience. I dont want to do this again. Working under the car is a hassle. it woudl be nice to have a lift or something....

If you think you can do this, think it twice. the only reason i finished and never gave up is because i love my car.

Reasons that slow you down.

1. unexpected broken parts.
2. trips back and forth to the parts store.
3. sockets rolling under the car
4. Looking for tools, for 20 min, and they were in front of you all the time
5. You break a part
6. My favorite, is you dont know were your going, till you reach there, putting everything back together is easier.....

I will try to post more pics of what i did, however this is why you pay mechanics the big bucks.....-

[6strngs]

But guess what!!! i have to change 6 wheel studs, that the threads went bad!!!!

try to use a thread chaser and new lug nuts before you replace the studs. that is usually all you need (I work at a tire shop and see this all the time) if that doesn't work you could get a tap and die set and re-tap the threads on the studs.