!!5sfte!!, the second coming! Options

[6strngs]

yep, you heard me. I'm coming back to the 5sfte community. Doing things a little different this time around, here's what I can remember so far that I'm doing differently:

Genuine HKS BOV, the new 2007 design
Got my injectors cleaned and flow tested at witchhunter. They were is poor condition before and are great now!
Going with a SAFCII instead of a neo. I got it for about $75 cheaper, and it measures knock. I was gonna get a greddy emanage ultimate, but I don't have a laptop to tune it with and it just looked too complicated for me to figure out how to tune it by myself, so maybe I'll upgrade later.
Got a custom stailness braided oil feed and drain line kit made specifically for my 5sfte. I just gotta weld a fitting onto my oil pan but I'm having a hard time finding someone willing to do it.
I'm fixing my radiator fan which was broken before. the motor fell out of the blade cause it was hooked up wrong
I'm using a regular sized radiator instead of the koyo, for a little more engine bay room
I'm relocating the battery to the trunk
and I'm cutting my IC piping down a lot for a cleaner install, might even paint them like LewFX

that's all I can think of right now, pictures to come. hope to be running by the end of the week after 6 months of down time!

[ecaddiction]

Pics when you get done!! Glad you stuck with it after all your frustration.

[bccentaur3]

Forget the pics, get some vids with the 5sfte in action bro. If not pics will do just fine.

I think cutting down the charge piping will make your engine bay hella clean. The set up you have in your profile, looks like you rushed a little with the piping. Or just lazy lol. GL with the set-up though.

[6strngs]

Forget the pics, get some vids with the 5sfte in action bro. If not pics will do just fine.

I think cutting down the charge piping will make your engine bay hella clean. The set up you have in your profile, looks like you rushed a little with the piping. Or just lazy lol. GL with the set-up though.

don't have a video camera, but I'll see if I can borrow one.

as for the intake piping, it was more just because I was anxious to get it running, and it was intended to be temporary until I had time to cut it. but I only got to drive the car about 100 miles with the turbo on and any spare time I had was spent in hunting down oil leaks...

[bccentaur3]

for VIDS. I know what you mean about being anxious man. Well once the oil leaks get taken care of, that ride is going to be sick.

[1bwilson]

Welcome back to team 5sfte!

[6strngs]

just finished installing the fuel pump, and I took a couple pic of my oil line kit for you. here's the flange that bolts onto the turbo:



here's the lines:



here they are threaded into the turbo



pic of the oil feed line (also note I turned my radiator hose around so it doesn't touch the turbo anymore



and the oil drain line. Yes, I will be cleaning that area of the block up a bit before bolting everything on. it got a little dirty from oil that was leaking from my filter relocator kt and coolant that was leaking from an oil cooler hose. both those leaks will be taken car of though.



these kits should be available to anyone that wants one. Just contact Aaron at RabidChimp.com (this website makes a kit like this for 7mgte supras, I originally only asked to buy the flange to bolt onto my CT-26, but he wanted to make the full kit, so he did) However, I wouldn't order one yet, I think my oil drain line may be too short, I have to wait until I get my oil pan back on monday because I found somebody to weld it, but they can't get it done until monday.

that's all for now, I may work on it a little more later tonight. I still have to:
Install oil pan
Finish fixing radiator fan
connect remaining few connectors of my wiring harness
Install oil filter relocation kit
Install turbo
Install turbo oil lines
Install and cut IC piping
Install SAFCII
Install gauges
and relocate the battery (after I buy one... lol)

[bccentaur3]

So what was up with your other oil filter relocation kit? Like why was it leaking?

[6strngs]

cause I installed it wrong and the rubber O-ring wasn't exaclty where it was supposed to be. 100% my own fault. the canton racing filter adaptor and stainless braided lines is the only way to go for the oil filter relocation.

[bccentaur3]

you don't have to go stainless do you?

[6strngs]

you don't have to go stainless do you?

technically no, but I thought I could get away with rubber hoses too and I regret it. You'll burn through them eventually due to how close they are to the downpipe. might as well just buy stainless to begin with and save yourself the trouble of buying things twice like I did. (actually... this is the third time buying them... I sold my other kit lol)

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Nov 18, 2007 - 12:47 AM

[bccentaur3]

LOL. You know what they say. 3rd times the charm.

[6strngs]

went to a pick'n'pull today and was surprised to see a 6th gen celica there! it was an 94 ST in the same color as my car. but almost everything had already been stripped from the car. all the interior pieces were gone except the steering wheel and dash board, the engine was gone but it still had a transmission (I think it was manual, but I'm not sure). I got what I wanted from it though, a radiator fan shroud and fan blade! also got me a couple different oil dipsticks from 4th gen celica 3sfe's and one from a 5sfe from a 5th gen. I broke my dipstick while trying to get it out and haven't had a way to check my oil level since. but the reason why it broke was because it hit my downpipe and there is no way to pull it out and get it back in while the downpipe is still in place. I'm wondering if other people with 5sfte's have this problem or if it's just me? if so, what have you done to fix it?

I also took a look at a buddy's (Cali_Jeff) battery relocation set-up and I have a good idea how I'm going to do mine now, I just can't decide between running the wires under the car or under the door sill and behind the plastics.

and one last thing, I tried figuring out how I was going to cut down my IC piping and as I was poking around, I came up with a different method of routing it all together. I took a pic of the mock-up to give a general idea. I need to cut up a bunch of the piping, but this'll give the general idea. what do you think?

[elvasoshexai]

when i saw pics of presure2 and shin's car, they had bent the entire line for the oil dipstick so that it faces a direction that you can get @ it

[6strngs]

when i saw pics of presure2 and shin's car, they had bent the entire line for the oil dipstick so that it faces a direction that you can get @ it

you mean bend the tube that the dispstick feeds into? should I just start smacking it with a rubber mallet? lol

[6strngs]

you asked for it, you got it! I just found I can upload videos from my cell-phone onto youtube (couldn't do this with my old phone). So, though the quality will be crappy at best, I can still have videos for you! here's a quick one of my IC piping:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=Twhr_dyigSM

and a picture of my fixed radiator fan for good measure.



This post has been edited by 6strngs: Nov 19, 2007 - 3:16 AM

[presure2]

what size is that return line?

[bccentaur3]

Weird bends and angles, but hey it works.

[6strngs]

Weird bends and angles, but hey it works.

that was just a test fit, it won't look that wierd when it's finished.

Manny, the return line is -10AN and the feed line is -4AN.

[LewFX]

from my tuner guy, he said t-clamps suck...theres another product out there for half the price of a tclamp... it surrounds the pipe and clamps unless t-clamps one way tightening

[6strngs]

from my tuner guy, he said t-clamps suck...theres another product out there for half the price of a tclamp... it surrounds the pipe and clamps unless t-clamps one way tightening

I'm not really sure what you're referring to...

[LewFX]

referring to t-clamps for ic piping

[presure2]

Weird bends and angles, but hey it works.

that was just a test fit, it won't look that wierd when it's finished.

Manny, the return line is -10AN and the feed line is -4AN.

the feed should be NO larger than -3an, with a restrictor.
you should know that by now.

lew, unless you have beaded pipes, and or aluminum piping, tbolts are just fine. if they ARE beaded, and or aluminum, ya just cant overtighten them.
constant tension clamps are IMO the best ones of all, asside from the 250$ EA wiggins clamps but theyre definetly not cheaper than the t-bolts.
when i redo my piping here at some point, thats what i'll be using.

[6strngs]

Weird bends and angles, but hey it works.

that was just a test fit, it won't look that wierd when it's finished.

Manny, the return line is -10AN and the feed line is -4AN.

the feed should be NO larger than -3an, with a restrictor.
you should know that by now.

lew, unless you have beaded pipes, and or aluminum piping, tbolts are just fine. if they ARE beaded, and or aluminum, ya just cant overtighten them.
constant tension clamps are IMO the best ones of all, asside from the 250$ EA wiggins clamps but theyre definetly not cheaper than the t-bolts.
when i redo my piping here at some point, thats what i'll be using.

I'm going be using a restrictor for the line, I don't see how it'll be a problem though as with a restrictor the same amount of oil is going to enter the line anyway. The guy who made the kit said he's used -4AN lines on CT-26's all the time without any problems.

btw, I got my oil pan back and the drain line did turn out to be about an inch too short, so I'm taking the line to a shop to see how much it would cost for a slightly longer line, hopefully they can reuse the hose ends cause I'm just about out of money at this point...

[celicast3sgte]

GIT-R-DONE!

[6strngs]

well, took the line to the shop and he looked at it and said it's definately not an AN hose. it's SAE. anyway, he said he could make me a hose using stainless steel hose ends for $55, then he suggested an AN hose, but when he looked at the price, just the one 90 degree hose end would cost about $40! I didn't get either yet, I'm going to look into some other options.

[presure2]

Weird bends and angles, but hey it works.

that was just a test fit, it won't look that wierd when it's finished.

Manny, the return line is -10AN and the feed line is -4AN.

the feed should be NO larger than -3an, with a restrictor.
you should know that by now.

lew, unless you have beaded pipes, and or aluminum piping, tbolts are just fine. if they ARE beaded, and or aluminum, ya just cant overtighten them.
constant tension clamps are IMO the best ones of all, asside from the 250$ EA wiggins clamps but theyre definetly not cheaper than the t-bolts.
when i redo my piping here at some point, thats what i'll be using.

I'm going be using a restrictor for the line, I don't see how it'll be a problem though as with a restrictor the same amount of oil is going to enter the line anyway. The guy who made the kit said he's used -4AN lines on CT-26's all the time without any problems.

btw, I got my oil pan back and the drain line did turn out to be about an inch too short, so I'm taking the line to a shop to see how much it would cost for a slightly longer line, hopefully they can reuse the hose ends cause I'm just about out of money at this point...

guy, are you thick headed.
the person who REBUILDS these turbos, who has been doing them for years, swears by no larger than 3an.
especially in a car that overfeeds the turbo as it is, why would you use a larger line??
ive been running mine for 2.5+ years.
have you read arts sig lately?

[6strngs]

having a couple days off from school, and a day off work, I've really been going at it today. I've gotten alot done. here's a pic of my crankshaft, notice the clean oil pan surface I spent probably about 2 hours cleaning!


here's a pic of all the parts that still needed to be installed, of course, I took this pic a few hours ago and have half of it in by now


here's a pic of my downpipie, wrapped with exhaust wrap and then painted with a high-temp silicone protectent paint. should keep the downpipe from rusting due to the exhaust wrap trapping moisture, plus it looks cool to have a flat black downpipe, lol.


and here's a pic of the front of my engine block. I cleaned it up a little bit, it still looks dirty, but it's waayy cleaner than before. and I put some heat wrap stuff around my oil cooler lines to keep them from melting again!


I've also got the filter relocation kit and the turbo, manifold, downpipe assembly installed. next up I'm going to get the IC piping all trimmed down and installed, then the gauges and SAFCII all wired up. after that, I just have to get an oil drain line made, get a battery and everything to relocate it, an intake set-up put together, then fill it up with oil and coolant and it'll be good to go!! hopefully...

[jcaron9gt4]

Where is your coolant lines for your turbo coming from?

[6strngs]

Where is your coolant lines for your turbo coming from?

I tee'd off from the throttle body coolant lines.
here's a pic showing the final fitment of the hot side of my IC piping. much cleaner IMO.


now I've just gotta cut two pipes and the cold side should be finished too. then just gotta do a lot of wiring. I'm so tired though, I don't know if I'm gonna do all that tonight.

[celicast3sgte]

nice work man, looks good

[6strngs]

here's two pics to show the current state:



still needs the BOV put on, the gauges and SAFCII hooked up, the longer drain line made and installed, a battery and installation of that, an intake which I hope to pick up today, and I need one more T-bolt clamp cause for some reason I have an odd number of them and came up one short. I'm pretty sure the battery will still fit in the engine bay, the routing of the IC piping I chose really leaves a lot more room in that area. I just need to go back later and do a better job at hiding a bunch of wires around that area. anyway, I probably won't get much time this weekend to work on it, but I hope to have it done next week fingers crossed

(take note of how shiny the starter is! lol, I had to buy a new one because the other one was destroyed as a result of my electrical "problem")

[CaliJeff]

what did u use to clean off all those surfaces ? engine degreaser?

[6strngs]

what did u use to clean off all those surfaces ? engine degreaser?

brake parts cleaner. IMO it works better than engine degreaser.

update! last night I got an intake set-up put together, and then I hooked a battery up to my car. with my fingers crossed, I hooked it up and just hoped for the best. nothing! no burning, no smoking, nothing went wrong! I got in, turned the key to the ON position, and my radio works, my headlights work, everything appears to work!!! this is great news as it means I didn't fry every electrical component on my car! the car is only days away now. I got my new oil drain line today, I just have to put that on, wire up the SAFC II and my gauges, and fill it with some fluids and it'll be ready to start!

[jcaron9gt4]

good to hear man...glad you didnt give up after your first try

[OOBE]

[/quote]
guy, are you thick headed.
the person who REBUILDS these turbos, who has been doing them for years, swears by no larger than 3an.
especially in a car that overfeeds the turbo as it is, why would you use a larger line??
ive been running mine for 2.5+ years.
have you read arts sig lately?

[/quote]

It's beyond me how he went with that craziness. It's such a simple, hiccup-free process to get the right size of lines. The info is everywhere on the forums.

[6strngs]

I plan to get an early start tomorrow morning and get it all finished up as much as I can. I hope to have it started by tomorrow night, but no promises.

as for my feed line, has anyone ever even tried anything other than a -3AN on a 5sfte before? besides, the difference between -3AN and -4AN is a mere 1/16th of an inch O.D. the inner diamter on AN hoses can vary.

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

[presure2]

I plan to get an early start tomorrow morning and get it all finished up as much as I can. I hope to have it started by tomorrow night, but no promises.

as for my feed line, has anyone ever even tried anything other than a -3AN on a 5sfte before? besides, the difference between -3AN and -4AN is a mere 1/16th of an inch O.D. the inner diamter on AN hoses can vary.

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

your a meatball man.
people have tried all KINDS of hoses for feed lines.
you think i just chose 3an line as a figure i pulled out of my head?
there is a REASON.
when the guy who rebuilds ct-26's for a LIVING tells you to use 3an, do you say, well, 4an will be fine..?

[celicast3sgte]

I plan to get an early start tomorrow morning and get it all finished up as much as I can. I hope to have it started by tomorrow night, but no promises.

as for my feed line, has anyone ever even tried anything other than a -3AN on a 5sfte before? besides, the difference between -3AN and -4AN is a mere 1/16th of an inch O.D. the inner diamter on AN hoses can vary.

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

your a meatball man.
people have tried all KINDS of hoses for feed lines.
you think i just chose 3an line as a figure i pulled out of my head?
there is a REASON.
when the guy who rebuilds ct-26's for a LIVING tells you to use 3an, do you say, well, 4an will be fine..?

wow dude, be easy on the guy. do you take the word of everyone you meet and read about online without asking a question or two? i mean you've said on the forums your just another guy like us learning as you go. hes learning. your right -3an is the best generic answer to use.

as for 6strngs, what presure2 means to say is the -3an is the best gauranteed answer to work. a -4an line with a restrictor without knowing exactly the size of the hole in that particular restrictor, you wont know for sure your getting the right flow. SO he "STRONGLY SUGGESTS" you run a -3an.... END OF DISCUSSION.

and please no more "are you dense?!" comments. help is help. bashing is bashing.

[OOBE]

He is not bashing him. It just gets on his nerves that he's giving him the right info in a very streamlined manner, and the guy keeps arguing and trying to do his own thing. Just because he's learning about the 5S-FE doesn't mean he doesn't have vast knowledge of turbo system components, like for instance, AN lines. What is your "and please no more "are you dense?!" trying to mean? What are you going to do if he doesn't stop? I don't think you're in the right position to tell the man what to do. I think you need to stay in your corresponding lane.

[celicaST]

What is your "and please no more "are you dense?!" trying to mean? What are you going to do if he doesn't stop? I don't think you're in the right position to tell the man what to do. I think you need to stay in your corresponding lane.

those comments by manny are completely unnecessary, especially from a mod representing the site meatball? are we in middle school? theres no need for name-calling when youre trying to help someone. manny might be right about the AN lines but celicast3sgte is right in the way to handle it.

[celicast3sgte]

hes called him a meatball and something else so far. that by my books isnt helping. and presure2 gave his advice and 6strngs asked a question. which was (why wont -4an line with a restrictor work?). A VALID QUESTION. and i didnt say presure2 was wrong, i agree with him even. but the man asked a question and presure2 gave a rude response.

and who are you to tell me what i can or cannot say? your in the same position as i am dude. so dont act all high and mighty. i said what i said because i dont believe hes helping with those words. not saying he isnt helping with his suggestion. but calling him a meatball doesnt get his point out better or help 6strngs understand WHY he should run a -3an oil feed. so instead of protecting your buddy. think about the topic at hand. and ill say it again... "(PLEASE!)"

your the only one making statements, i made a request.

[OOBE]

You need thick skin on the Internet. Just because it reads rude doesn't mean it is. Do you imagine myself with a pissed-off face typing this at you? Maybe, maybe not. Some people here have very short e-fuses. Another hobby might be better for those, in order to keep their stress levels at a minimum.

[6strngs]

wow dude, be easy on the guy. do you take the word of everyone you meet and read about online without asking a question or two? i mean you've said on the forums your just another guy like us learning as you go. hes learning. your right -3an is the best generic answer to use.

as for 6strngs, what presure2 means to say is the -3an is the best gauranteed answer to work. a -4an line with a restrictor without knowing exactly the size of the hole in that particular restrictor, you wont know for sure your getting the right flow. SO he "STRONGLY SUGGESTS" you run a -3an.... END OF DISCUSSION.

and please no more "are you dense?!" comments. help is help. bashing is bashing.

Thank you! I don't see a need for the name calling. I understand where you're coming from and I don't disagree that a -3AN hose would be better. However, I believe I will be able to get away with using a -4AN hose without any issues. The hole through the restrictor will be the same size no matter the size of the hose and the same amount of oil will be let through as the oil pressure will not be changed any. The reason I went with the larger hose was because it was what came with the kit I bought and I got this kit for a very good price. If there are any issues down the road I will swap out the hose for a -3AN. IN fact, for all I know, it actually already is a -3AN hose. The drain line he sent me he told me was a -10AN but when I compared it to my -10AN oil filter relocation lines, it was smaller, not much, but a little. and this feed line does not seem any bigger than the -3AN feed line I had before. But in any case, I'd like to keep this civil. We're all adults here and I really don't want to see this thread closed.

Now, for the news you've all been really waiting for! The car runs!!! Started it up tonight! I put a nice new optima red-top battery in there and got my SAFC all wired up. finished up the last couple of things and fired away! The best news yet is that there are no leaks! well, a small coolant leak sprung before I started the car, but it was easily trace-able and I just needed to tighten down two bolts and it was fine after that. of course, the real test will be after the car fully warms up. however, I still need to wire in my gauges before I do anything else. I need to be able to monitor my oil pressure and air-fuel ratio at the least before I'd feel safe letting the car run for more than a minute or two. The only problem is, as soon as I tried to rev the car it bogged and died. I don't think it's a map sensor issue, because the car idled fine. I don't think I properly set-up the SAFC yet though. I kind of regret going with the SAFCII instead of the NEO this time around. The SAFC was way cheaper and can measure knock, but the Neo was much more user friendly and it looked way nicer IMO. oh well, as long as the car runs good I can always upgrade later. I plan to put a couple more hours into it tomorrow and I definately plan on getting the gauges in and hope to get it running smoothly so I can take it for a test drive. then I just need to replace the seals between the axle and transmission as it's leaking transmission fluid, but it has been ever since I removed the transmission because I think I broke the seals. There are seals between the transmission and the axles, right? if not, what keeps the fluid from leaking out? cause whatever it is I broke it and I need to know what it is before I can replace it.

[presure2]

i called him a meatball, cause ive said to HIM SPECIFICLY time and again, USE 3an line, USE stainless braided hoses blah blah blah.
it gets old repeating the same damn things over and over again, only to have someone say, well, yea, im just gonna use 4an...or whatever...
dude, this is PROVEN.
use what works.

[LewFX]

how did you hook your safc up...95% of ppl dont do it right...of course i fell into that category, but hey im up and running at last

[6strngs]

how did you hook your safc up...95% of ppl dont do it right...of course i fell into that category, but hey im up and running at last

I'm not really sure what you mean. I hooked it up following the guide in the stickies and I soldered and heat shrinked all the connections.

Presure2, I heard you the first time and I took it into consideration. But I've also given reasons why this way should also work which you have not had a reply as to why it wouldn't. You are merely repeating yourself and the only back-up you have for your statement is that it's the right thing to use because you, or somebody else who rebuilds these turbos for a living, says that it's best. I know that that set-up works but who's to say this set-up won't also work? And I know this couldn't be what you mean, but the way it's coming out, it sounds like you're saying that it's best simply because it's what you have. I'm sure that couldn't be what you're trying to say, but that's how it's sounding because it's impossible to show tone of voice through the internet.

[presure2]

how did you hook your safc up...95% of ppl dont do it right...of course i fell into that category, but hey im up and running at last

I'm not really sure what you mean. I hooked it up following the guide in the stickies and I soldered and heat shrinked all the connections.

Presure2, I heard you the first time and I took it into consideration. But I've also given reasons why this way should also work which you have not had a reply as to why it wouldn't. You are merely repeating yourself and the only back-up you have for your statement is that it's the right thing to use because you, or somebody else who rebuilds these turbos for a living, says that it's best. I know that that set-up works but who's to say this set-up won't also work? And I know this couldn't be what you mean, but the way it's coming out, it sounds like you're saying that it's best simply because it's what you have. I'm sure that couldn't be what you're trying to say, but that's how it's sounding because it's impossible to show tone of voice through the internet.

it has nothing to do with "me" having it.
i did almost 2 YEARS of research before i turboed.
the info i have is from ATS racing, who builds ct-27's, 3sgtes ect all day,
"noshoes" bryan moore (who incase you didnt know, is one of the PREMIER 3sgte tuners in the USA, as well as John stannson, another very reputable 3sgte tuner) , ken blake, and several others, all of whom have been doing this kind of stuff LONG before you or i were.
its not something i came up with on a whim, or read in a post on the internet.
these guys i've spoken with HAVE used, researched and tried about every combination of lines and fittings there is to fit that need.
its not that your setup "wont" work, it will. its just not the "optimal" setup for the ct-26 turbo.
will it hurt? cant say. i personally hope it doesnt, and you are up and running for years to come.
however,
I, without a doubt, can say i was told by the person who rebuilt my turbo (ATS racing) to use NO LARGER (and yes, he did use caps too when he told me! haha) than -3an line, WITH a restrictor.
and it has worked FLAWLESSLY for over 2 1/2 years, 35,000+ miles, for me.
i would trust that over a guess any day.

[OOBE]

*grabs popcorn*

[Supersprynt]

*grabs meatball*

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Nov 30, 2007 - 6:15 PM

[lagos]

The number one reason why celica turbo kit projects have failed was always due to people cutting corners. They either cheap out on an oil line, or never make any attempt to properly tune the car. Trying to save 50bucks here and there will just end up costing you hundreds in the future.

[6strngs]

Well, the car runs! When we had started it before, the negative battery terminal was not tight at all. this way we could disconnect it quick in case of emergency. well, when I had revved before, the vibration must've knocked it loose or something because I tightened it up and then started it and it worked fine! I gave a couple revs, and I'm a bit surprised to say that the blow off valve blows off even when the car is not under load! and it sounds amazingly good! I only revved to about 3500 and it blew off very nicely. I'm really glad I decided to spend the extra money on a genuine HKS and not a knock-off BOV.

anyway, I wanted to finish up the gauges tonight, and I did but when I turned the key only one came on I got frustrated and gave up for the night, but it should be on the road before the end of the weekend.

[cHinaman727]

amazing! Half a month, little arguing, little TLC, and you got a running 5sfte.

come do mine.

[6strngs]

amazing! Half a month, little arguing, little TLC, and you got a running 5sfte.

come do mine.

if you buy all the parts, buy me a plane ticket, pay me for all the time I take off work, and pay all my necessary expenses such as housing and food while I'm down there, and sure, I'll come put yours together

[bccentaur3]

amazing! Half a month, little arguing, little TLC, and you got a running 5sfte.

come do mine.

if you buy all the parts, buy me a plane ticket, pay me for all the time I take off work, and pay all my necessary expenses such as housing and food while I'm down there, and sure, I'll come put yours together

Jeez that's going to cost more than putting the kit together himself. LOL. Congrats on the turbo. Post some action vids dood.

[elvasoshexai]

wait... i thought a bov ISN'T supposed to go off if ur just revving it in ur garage...

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Dec 1, 2007 - 1:02 PM

[bccentaur3]

Technically if you're reving you're building boost.

[celicast3sgte]

the HKS bov reacts way different from your typical BOV (greddy or blitz) it is a pull type meaning activated by the little vacum like you hook up to it. not by the boost finally over powering your spring and opening the valve. in theory it will blow off everytime you let off the throttle completely.

an engine under no load still spins the turbo but wont build any ammount of boost pressure to speak of, but enough to make the cool noise. lol

[6strngs]

amazing! Half a month, little arguing, little TLC, and you got a running 5sfte.

come do mine.

if you buy all the parts, buy me a plane ticket, pay me for all the time I take off work, and pay all my necessary expenses such as housing and food while I'm down there, and sure, I'll come put yours together

Jeez that's going to cost more than putting the kit together himself. LOL. Congrats on the turbo. Post some action vids dood.

meh, $600 tops on airfare, $150 for me to take 3 days off work, and maybe $400 tops for me to have a hotel and food for 3 days, so $1150 for a turbo install in 3 days, provided you have all the parts, that's less than what a shop would probably charge for this kind of install.

[6strngs]

two piccys for you. one was taken on thursday before it was all complete, the other was taken yesterday.



I'm planning on getting the gauges in tomorrow and taking it for a drive

[6strngs]

ok, got everything hooked up. for some reason my wideband and boost gauge aren't registering anything, but I'm sure it's something simple. other than that, it was good to drive the car again oh how I missed it so! So, as a way of saying thank you for putting me back together again, my car decides it wants to have coolant leaks instead of oil leaks this time around. *sigh* it's leaking a ton of coolant from the turbo coolant lines. I'm pretty sure it's only the gasket. So after running around to every parts store in town and relizing nobody has it, or even gasket making material that could stand up to the heat, I realize this part can only come from toyota... which means having to wait for it... I was wondering though, would it hurt anything to just use some RTV sealant as a gasket temporarily, or to just run it only oil cooled. only for a few days, and I don't intend on running it too hard, I just want to get my low throttle map tuned and get everything running nice. does anybody know if I would hurt anything by doing either of these?

[LewFX]

i bought my gasket from a seller on ebay, 9 bucks for both water gaskets, even tho i only needed one, u wanna buy the other one?

[lagos]

I was wondering though, would it hurt anything to just use some RTV sealant as a gasket temporarily, or to just run it only oil cooled.

OH..... MY......GOD....

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 4, 2007 - 1:18 AM

[6strngs]

I was wondering though, would it hurt anything to just use some RTV sealant as a gasket temporarily, or to just run it only oil cooled.

OH..... MY......GOD....

umm, ok... I've heard of some turbos using only oil to cool, I just didn't know if this one could or if it would damage things. It seemed like a reasonable question to me. This is why I was asking before I did anything. As for RTV, it's used around the rubber ring for the thermostat so I know it can cope with the temperature of coolant, but again, I was asking as I didn't know for sure. I don't really understand why I have to be criticised for everything I do or say.

[Batman722]

On your last set up you had 2-3 bad/blown turbos, correct ? and you have a good one now, correct ? If I were you I would make sure I do everything I could to keep this one good...

I think some are critical because some of the things you do or say can be either harmfull or dangerous to your set up. We all want to see you succeed, and there are some very important things you cannot cut corners, cheap out, or rig up to work temporarily. Be patient, do research, get the correct parts, and then you'll make Manny and Art proud.

[OOBE]

I was wondering though, would it hurt anything to just use some RTV sealant as a gasket temporarily, or to just run it only oil cooled.

OH..... MY......GOD....

He needs to recite your siggy over and over, huh?

[presure2]

DO NOT USE RTV ON ANY PART OF YOUR TURBO, AND DO NOT RUN IT OIL COOLED ONLY.

[6strngs]

DO NOT USE RTV ON ANY PART OF YOUR TURBO, AND DO NOT RUN IT OIL COOLED ONLY.

perhaps not the nicest way to put it, but at least this post was helpful. it doesn't matter anyway, I was able to get a gasket from Calijeff so I'm about to go install that and hope that it doesn't leak now. then hopefully get my other two gauges working and a couple other small things.

[Supersprynt]

I'm pretty sure the caps were there just for emphasis, not like he called you a meatball or something.

[presure2]

I'm pretty sure the caps were there just for emphasis, not like he called you a meatball or something.

yup.

[jcaron9gt4]

manny wouldnt do something liek that

[6strngs]

Coolant leak is fixed, but now the car leaks oil, and fuel, and it still leaks transmission fluid... I noticed it was leaking a large amount of fuel from the number 2 injector, so I pulled it out and the top O-ring was ripped. these O-rings are brand new from witchhunter where I had the injectors cleaned. I'm pretty pissed one broke so fast.

So, you fix one leak and two more pop up...... I'm starting to remember why I almost gave up in the first place.

[LewFX]

i know that feeling, almost feel the same way right now

[lagos]

Coolant leak is fixed, but now the car leaks oil, and fuel, and it still leaks transmission fluid... I noticed it was leaking a large amount of fuel from the number 2 injector, so I pulled it out and the top O-ring was ripped. these O-rings are brand new from witchhunter where I had the injectors cleaned. I'm pretty pissed one broke so fast.

So, you fix one leak and two more pop up...... I'm starting to remember why I almost gave up in the first place.

thats cause you didnt lube them up with wd40 like you're supposed to.

[LewFX]

take an old o-ring off your old injectors

[6strngs]

Coolant leak is fixed, but now the car leaks oil, and fuel, and it still leaks transmission fluid... I noticed it was leaking a large amount of fuel from the number 2 injector, so I pulled it out and the top O-ring was ripped. these O-rings are brand new from witchhunter where I had the injectors cleaned. I'm pretty pissed one broke so fast.

So, you fix one leak and two more pop up...... I'm starting to remember why I almost gave up in the first place.

thats cause you didnt lube them up with wd40 like you're supposed to.

I put some gasoline on all the rubber rings and installed them within 30 days of recieving them per witchhunter's instructions.

[LewFX]

rcengineering told me to put a dab of oil on the seals and rings before install

[OOBE]

I always use a bit of oil from the dipstick to lube them. I don't get all those gremlins you've had. Didn't you check and recheck all gaskets, seals, and connections after the install? You have to take a long while to do that before even looking at that car key, brother.

[6strngs]

I always use a bit of oil from the dipstick to lube them. I don't get all those gremlins you've had. Didn't you check and recheck all gaskets, seals, and connections after the install? You have to take a long while to do that before even looking at that car key, brother.

yes, as a matter of fact, I did. but it's a little hard to check an O-ring that sits inside the fuel rail.

[OOBE]

Yeah, it's hard, but it's not hard to check the o-ring BEFORE installing the injectors. It's not hard to pull everything apart and give it a through look to make sure it's good to go. You're making too many easily-avoidable mistakes, and i['s costing you money. I'm just trying to understand why didn't you inspect EVERYTHING (meaning each single component that's part of the engine or related) before even starting up the car. I'm not trying to flame. I'm just trying to get you, because I don't.

[OOBE]

This is what I'm atalking about. Some of you kids get pissed when I reply to your posts. If you're going to post such non-sense, you need to have the thick skin to take what others have to say instead of getting pissy and smart-ass about it.

"I'm fixing my radiator fan which was broken before. the motor fell out of the blade cause it was hooked up wrong"
How did that happen?

"btw, I got my oil pan back and the drain line did turn out to be about an inch too short"
What's so hard about taking a piece of string and measuring the distance between the two components? I mean, it worked with helicopters I worked on when I was in the Army.

"I put some heat wrap stuff around my oil cooler lines to keep them from melting again!"
Rubber lines for an oil cooler? Plus, the lines are supposed to be as far from a heat source as possible, so the cooler can effectively do, you know, what it's supposed to do.

"I tee'd off from the throttle body coolant lines."
Aren't those coolant lines supposed to run hot coolant to warm up the throttle body during cold weather? What are you doing feeding hot coolant to your turbo?

I'll be back with some more.

[OOBE]

" If there are any issues down the road I will swap out the hose for a -3AN. "
Refer to Lagos' signature.

"well, a small coolant leak sprung before I started the car, but it was easily trace-able and I just needed to tighten down two bolts and it was fine after that."
If you would've checked throughly prior to starting it, it wouldn't have happened. It's too damn easy to do post-maintenance checks. Again, refer to Lagos' signature.

"I still need to wire in my gauges before I do anything else.
I need to be able to monitor my oil pressure and air-fuel ratio at the least before I'd feel safe letting the car run for more than a minute or two."
See, then you complain when stuff doesn't go the way it should. You do "everything" and forget one, if not, the most important thing in a turbo setup? Why did you even start up the car, then? What's the hurry if it's not properly finished?

"I kind of regret going with the SAFCII instead of the NEO this time around. The SAFC was way cheaper and can measure knock, but the Neo was much more user friendly and it looked way nicer IMO.
Cheaper, huh? First, cheap is not a healthy word when turbocharging any Celica. Second, why are you doing this if you don't even have the proper funds for it? Piecing it first makes much more sense than straight-up getting to business without having everything you need. You cannot even make up your mind on what fuel management to use.
First you want the Neo, then you get the S-AFC II because it has knock sensor, and now you want the Neo again because it's more user friendly and looked oh-so-much nicer? Didn't you have time to think what you wanted previously? It's called planning.

"because I think I broke the seals. There are seals between the transmission and the axles, right?"
What? You THINK you broke the seals, but you're not sure if those seals even exist? I don't know what else to say. That statement right there speaks for itself.

"'cause whatever it is I broke it and I need to know what it is before I can replace it."
That sounds about right.

"meh, $600 tops on airfare, $150 for me to take 3 days off work, and maybe $400 tops for me to have a hotel and food for 3 days, so $1150 for a turbo install in 3 days, provided you have all the parts, that's less than what a shop would probably charge for this kind of install."
After reading all your obvious mistakes, I don't see how anybody would trust you with a wrench on their car.

"*sigh* it's leaking a ton of coolant from the turbo coolant lines. I'm pretty sure it's only the gasket."
Your constant guessing is the cause for all your troubles. Stop guessing and inform yourself properly before attempting anything else. The information is out there.

"I was wondering though, would it hurt anything to just use some RTV sealant as a gasket temporarily, or to just run it only oil cooled."
Wow. This project involves that aspect, which is pretty basic, and you're not aware of it? By the way, have you read Lagos' signature lately?

"Coolant leak is fixed, but now the car leaks oil, and fuel, and it still leaks transmission fluid..."
I wonder why? Seriously, you need to put down the wrench and get your head out of your ass. Some may say I'm overly-critical. Take it as you wish. Before anybody pulls out the "bash card", I'm not bashing. I'm pointing out things that grabbed my attention. I'm sure most [of the few mature individuals here that don't get hurt by constructive criticism and don't always (and only) expect mad props, praises, compliments and "attaboys", especially when posting things of this nature] will agree with what I wrote. "Oh, nobody is perfect. Everybody makes mistakes" Yeah? That's not an excuse to keep repeating them, especially when they could've been easily avoidable had you instructed yourself properly prior to even buying a part or picking up a wrench. Hmmm, hurley97 is a great example. She's covering all her bases before even attempting anything. Mad props to her. It's not like the homework wasn't done for you already. The information is in this site. You must've missed it. Google is your friend, also. Have a nice day.

Edited for typographical errors. For the ones not in the know, English is not my first language.

This post has been edited by OOBE: Dec 5, 2007 - 5:12 AM

[Supersprynt]

And that's all I got to say about that.

Use the knowledge of the Jedi, young padawan.

[6strngs]

Yeah, it's hard, but it's not hard to check the o-ring BEFORE installing the injectors. It's not hard to pull everything apart and give it a through look to make sure it's good to go. You're making too many easily-avoidable mistakes, and i['s costing you money. I'm just trying to understand why didn't you inspect EVERYTHING (meaning each single component that's part of the engine or related) before even starting up the car. I'm not trying to flame. I'm just trying to get you, because I don't.

I did check out all the O-rings and gaskets before installing them. I checked over everything multiple times to be sure I wasn't forgetting anything, I spent a lot of time preparing things so they would be done right the first time. I made sure all bolts were tight, I made sure all electrical connectors were secure and connected correctly.

This is what I'm atalking about. Some of you kids get pissed when I reply to your posts. If you're going to post such non-sense, you need to have the thick skin to take what others have to say instead of getting pissy and smart-ass about it.

"I'm fixing my radiator fan which was broken before. the motor fell out of the blade cause it was hooked up wrong"
How did that happen?

the screws that hold the motor into the shroud were not screwed through the shroud into the motor, just through the motor and thus were not doing anything. the motor was held in place only by the one nut on the other side of the fan blade. And it worked for a long while. It was not broken when I installed my koyo radiator, and was broken before I removed it. Eventually the blade just broke in the center and the motor was not secured by anything. the motor did not actually fall out. I noticed the blade was loose, and was able to pull the motor out without any effort. This is not my fault but the previous owner's/the mechanic of the previous owner for not installing it correctly.

"btw, I got my oil pan back and the drain line did turn out to be about an inch too short"
What's so hard about taking a piece of string and measuring the distance between the two components? I mean, it worked with helicopters I worked on when I was in the Army.

yeah, I did measure it. but did not account for exactly where on the oil pan the bung needed to placed so that it would not interfere with the baffles. therfore the hung needed to be moved over an inch from where I had originally planned to position it, thus making the line too short to reach it.

"I put some heat wrap stuff around my oil cooler lines to keep them from melting again!"
Rubber lines for an oil cooler? Plus, the lines are supposed to be as far from a heat source as possible, so the cooler can effectively do, you know, what it's supposed to do.

uh... yeah... that's what they came with stock! I never touched them, one metled simply because of it's close vicinity to the downpipe. I didn't re-route them or replace metal lines with rubber ones...

"I tee'd off from the throttle body coolant lines."
Aren't those coolant lines supposed to run hot coolant to warm up the throttle body during cold weather? What are you doing feeding hot coolant to your turbo?

hey guess what, that's what everybody else on the forum does. I even asked about how they should be routed and got my information from presure2. so perhaps you should be criticising him too along with everyone else on this website who has a 5sfte.

I'll be back with some more.

[Batman722]

oobie, where do you suggest tapping coolant from ?

[CaliJeff]

oobe, u may have completed ur 5sfte project successfully, but what give u the right to criticize like u did. u may be restating past questions and answering them belligerently, but how does that help him at all. I do think you owe him an apology man.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Dec 5, 2007 - 8:59 PM

[OOBE]

Apology for what? For quoting what he wrote and speaking my mind? All of a sudden I am Mr. Mean Guy for not posting smileys and buttkissery? What are these forums comprised of? Five year olds? Again, all that is expected here is, quoting by what I wrote earlier, is mad props, praises, compliments and "attaboys". God forbid somebody posts something other than laughs and anything not in a happy tone, and tears will be running and hearts will be broken in 6GC.net. It's apparent that I wasted my time in this thread, and all I did was upset some young hearts, instead of opening some eyes. I'm not wasting my time anymore with this. You want to go ahead and keep doing your thing? Be my guest. I'm not stepping in or reading this thread anymore. The least thing I need is to try to steer someone the right way, and get some defensive kids stick up for their "wounded" buddy that cannot take a little bit of heat from his own mistakes.

[6strngs]

Apology for what? For quoting what he wrote and speaking my mind? All of a sudden I am Mr. Mean Guy for not posting smileys and buttkissery? What are these forums comprised of? Five year olds? Again, all that is expected here is, quoting by what I wrote earlier, is mad props, praises, compliments and "attaboys". God forbid somebody posts something other than laughs and anything not in a happy tone, and tears will be running and hearts will be broken in 6GC.net. It's apparent that I wasted my time in this thread, and all I did was upset some young hearts, instead of opening some eyes. I'm not wasting my time anymore with this. You want to go ahead and keep doing your thing? Be my guest. I'm not stepping in or reading this thread anymore. The least thing I need is to try to steer someone the right way, and get some defensive kids stick up for their "wounded" buddy that cannot take a little bit of heat from his own mistakes.

Hah! point out my mistakes and steer me in the right direction? that's funny, cause that's not what I read. looked more like picking apart everything I said so you could make accusations and assumptions about how I'm doing everything so "wrong". Ok, so I stubbornly chose to use an oil feed line slightly too large for my application and suddenly I'm half-assing every single thing and not spending any time looking things over or double checking anything, cheaping out and trying to get away with the bare minimum? Now I'm a complete idiot who knows absolutely nothing about cars and is ignoring every single piece of advice (if you could call it that, more like criticism) given to me? come on! I've spent a considerable amount of time researching everything. and I've spent way more money then I ever planned on spending on this project. once I went over-budget, I tried to find a couple ways to cut some cost back, such as going with the cheap oil filter relocation kit. yeah, everybody said not to, but I know other people on this site were able to run for weeks/months with a similar set-up so I figured I could get by for a while. well, I had to learn my lesson the hard way. There have been a couple other things like that too, but for the most part, I tried to get the best I could for everything else. I've been thinking about and researching everything I could about the 5sfte for over a year. If you hadn't noticed, I've gone with a very different IC piping set-up than I had before. I didn't just throw it together for the heck of it, I spent hours measuring, test fitting, and rigging it up to get it just right. That's just an example for you of how carefully I've been trying to get this done RIGHT! I didn't start this thread until I was nearly complete. a few months ago everything was completely in shambles. to have like three tiny things go wrong out of the dozens of different things I had to do to get this car running again, I'd say I did pretty good. After all the work I did, it really doesn't feel good to be insulted for the three tiny things that went wrong, among other things that really weren't/aren't problems at all, you just felt like insulting me for them for the heck of it. /rant

anyway, if we could get this thread back on track like I tried to do before, I looked on Alldata tonight while I was at school for the procedure for replacing the fuel injectors. What it said to do was to apply a light coat of gasoline or some certain kind of oil (I can't remember the exact wording, but I think it meant like WD-40 or similar) to all the rubber rings before installation, which I did. then in bold letters it said "DO NOT APPLY ENGINE OIL, GEAR OIL, TRANSMISSION FLUID, DIESEL OIL, OR DIESEL FUEL TO ANY OF THE RINGS OR GROMMETS!"

[celicast3sgte]

heheh...

anyways hope it works out for ya man, dont bother askin a question or 2 if u dont know. and hey stuff happens when your making custom kits and not goin exactly the same route as the next guy. but whatever. do it right. get it runnin. get a good tune. and have some fun.

[zero07]

Hey oobe, i know you said you would stay out of this thread, (a good thing) but in case you do read this... "are you shi**ing me with all that rude BULLSH*T".
BTW im not some kid sticking up for a wounded friend, but a grown man that knows the difference between constructive criticism and being an AS*HOLE.

Sorry guys, just had to say it.

6strings, good luck with your build!

This post has been edited by zero07: Dec 6, 2007 - 1:01 PM

[lagos]

"DO NOT APPLY ENGINE OIL, GEAR OIL, TRANSMISSION FLUID, DIESEL OIL, OR DIESEL FUEL TO ANY OF THE RINGS OR GROMMETS!"

thats why wd40 is the best thing. its a thin penetrating oil that wont clog them up like motor oil could, yet it will lube them up enough so that they wont get damaged as you push them into the rail. i used it on my injectors and never had any issues.

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 6, 2007 - 1:12 PM

[Supersprynt]

I think a lot of people here are spoiled because you have to be pretty nice in everything you say and aren't used to what the real world is like. There was an uproar because someone got called a meatball, I mean...wow.

The internet isn't a place for the thin skinned.

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 6, 2007 - 1:20 PM

[99GT]

Everyone is just trying to help out. I think what pisses people off is when they tell you something and you do something else. THEN you come back and complain why this and why that, when they already told you.

[6strngs]

So, on tuesday I pulled the injector and noticed the ring was broken, so that same day I went to a parts store and was able to get a new one. but by the time I got back, thanks to rush hour traffic, it was dark and I had to go to school only an hour later so I figured I would do it the next day, then I remembered I had plans for that day, so I told myself I'd do it today, but now it's raining and I don't want to get wet and I don't want to push the car into the garage by myself... so yet again it's not getting done. all I have to do is put a freaking injector back in. it would take like half an hour at most. just can't find the opportune moment.

[jcaron9gt4]

push it into the garage...and get this thing done! a little rain never hurt anybody

[presure2]

push it into the garage...and get this thing done! a little rain never hurt anybody

X2!!
yo, (sorry, dont know your real name..lol) 6strings, i may come off as a bit of a jerk most of the time, but its only cause im trying to help. i wanna see you be another one of the "team 5sfte" again!
i think most of the people here that actually know me would tell ya, i'll try and help ya anyway i can, if i can. even IF i come off as a dick.
lol

[6strngs]

push it into the garage...and get this thing done! a little rain never hurt anybody

X2!!
yo, (sorry, dont know your real name..lol) 6strings, i may come off as a bit of a jerk most of the time, but its only cause im trying to help. i wanna see you be another one of the "team 5sfte" again!
i think most of the people here that actually know me would tell ya, i'll try and help ya anyway i can, if i can. even IF i come off as a dick.
lol

by myself? the driveway is pretty steep, I highly doubt I'd be able to get the car up there unless I pushed it way over to the other side of the street to let it pick up speed, but then I'd for sure scrape the exhaust, if not the front bumper, on the driveway. once this car gets lowered I don't think it'll ever see the garage again, why do you think I've been trying to get all my engine work done before lowering it? lol, I'm jk of course. anyway, I'm gonna do it tomorrow rain or shine.

Manny, I know. This is why I did not respond to any of your posts angrily. I know you are genuinely trying to help me, as you've done many times in the past. I've learned a vast majority of my 5sfte knowledge from your thread and from asking you questions. So, no hard feelings?
My name's Nathan, btw

[6strngs]

well, I put it back together today. I got fed-up with having to wrench away at those two bolts that hold the fuel line in place so I went out and bought a wratcheting wrench. No I didn't have any before, and now I know what I've been missing! It normally took me like 15-20 minutes to get those two bolts in or out cause a ratchet can't fit in there, this time it took less than 2 anyway, I got everything fixed that I wanted to. in fact, I even was able to fix my alarm which had been broken since before I had even turbo-ed because I couldn't figure out why it was broken. I know I had shorted two wires accidentally, but I had checked all fuses and nothing was blown. well, while I had the engine in shambles I discovered a well-hidden wire that definately does not seem stock and it had a fuse outside the main fuse boxes, well, replaced that fuse and it works now. lol

The only thing I'm severly pissed about is that my wideband gauge is no longer working! the gauge gets power, but the signal is all F'ed up. it would read some wierd things like saying I was super lean at idle even though I could smell the gas and I knew I was super rich. then it worked for a bit and told me I was at a 13.7 AFR after I had leaned out idle about to get the car to smooth out, so that seemed right. but then at times is would just sit at some strange number like 14.1 and just stay there at idle, low, and full throttle. I checked all the connections for the signal and it should be working right. I'm wondering if the tip of the sensor is too fouled to get a good reading (it was very black from me running so rich), or if the sensor itself was somehow damaged in the time it spent out of my car... I dunno, but this gauge was expensive and I'm very sad it's not working.

anyway, no more gas leaks, no more coolant leaks, but some oil leaks have reared their ugly heads. The first time around, for the filter relocation kit, I had put teflon tape on all the threads and it never leaked from any threads, then I was told that teflon tape should only be used on the AN threads and not the NPT threads, so I put teflon only on the AN threads this time around and now it's not leaking from any AN threads, but it's leaking from ALL the NPT threads on the relocation kit and the oil drain line... it's not soo bad though. As long as I top it off with oil every day it should be ok to drive short distances. I might try to get teflon tape on all those NPT threads tomorrow after work, but we'll see.

only other thing is, I need to find some uber small hose clamps or somthing, cause my car likes to blow vacuum lines off the intake manifold! I noticed while I was driving it that my BOV stopped working and I could hear compressor surge, and then my car wouldn't idle lower than 2000 rpms. I blew the vacuum hose for the BOV off, and for the idle control valve. lol.

[lagos]

you can use zip ties on the vac lines.

[presure2]

well, I put it back together today. I got fed-up with having to wrench away at those two bolts that hold the fuel line in place so I went out and bought a wratcheting wrench. No I didn't have any before, and now I know what I've been missing! It normally took me like 15-20 minutes to get those two bolts in or out cause a ratchet can't fit in there, this time it took less than 2 anyway, I got everything fixed that I wanted to. in fact, I even was able to fix my alarm which had been broken since before I had even turbo-ed because I couldn't figure out why it was broken. I know I had shorted two wires accidentally, but I had checked all fuses and nothing was blown. well, while I had the engine in shambles I discovered a well-hidden wire that definately does not seem stock and it had a fuse outside the main fuse boxes, well, replaced that fuse and it works now. lol

The only thing I'm severly pissed about is that my wideband gauge is no longer working! the gauge gets power, but the signal is all F'ed up. it would read some wierd things like saying I was super lean at idle even though I could smell the gas and I knew I was super rich. then it worked for a bit and told me I was at a 13.7 AFR after I had leaned out idle about to get the car to smooth out, so that seemed right. but then at times is would just sit at some strange number like 14.1 and just stay there at idle, low, and full throttle. I checked all the connections for the signal and it should be working right. I'm wondering if the tip of the sensor is too fouled to get a good reading (it was very black from me running so rich), or if the sensor itself was somehow damaged in the time it spent out of my car... I dunno, but this gauge was expensive and I'm very sad it's not working.

anyway, no more gas leaks, no more coolant leaks, but some oil leaks have reared their ugly heads. The first time around, for the filter relocation kit, I had put teflon tape on all the threads and it never leaked from any threads, then I was told that teflon tape should only be used on the AN threads and not the NPT threads, so I put teflon only on the AN threads this time around and now it's not leaking from any AN threads, but it's leaking from ALL the NPT threads on the relocation kit and the oil drain line... it's not soo bad though. As long as I top it off with oil every day it should be ok to drive short distances. I might try to get teflon tape on all those NPT threads tomorrow after work, but we'll see.

only other thing is, I need to find some uber small hose clamps or somthing, cause my car likes to blow vacuum lines off the intake manifold! I noticed while I was driving it that my BOV stopped working and I could hear compressor surge, and then my car wouldn't idle lower than 2000 rpms. I blew the vacuum hose for the BOV off, and for the idle control valve. lol.

nate,
you have the teflon tape thing backwards.
you never have to use tape on AN fittings, they are a pressure fit.
NPT on the other hand, requires the thread tape.