NEED HELP!!!!!!!!!!, SHES ALIVE, thank you all!!!!!! Options

[94celicadude]

Hey gals and guys, hoping any one of you outrageously smart people out there can help me out. Here goes:

I have done some recent maintenance on my 94 GT, i took the injectors our to have them cleaned and balanced, and at the same time i replaced the timing belt. I did make one mistake in dis-assembling the injectors, my Toyota workshop manual tells me that i need to remove the negative battery terminal and wait a minimum of 90 secs before starting any work, well i was being childish and i wanted to have my radio on while i worked so i could listen to music, and so my battery was hooked up until the moment i had to remove my altenator to do the timing belt side of the job. Well tonight i finally received my injectors back from RC collins in cali. and i had finished the timing belt and all of that jazz and was just waiting for the injectors to come back.

I re-installed the injectors and connected everything back up, i cranked the car and NOTHING!...it cranks but it will not start. Now i have checked and there is NO SPARK and NO FUEL getting to the cylinders, i have also made sure there are no leaks in the system anywhere, i have forced the fuel pump on and i have fuel pressure. I have also checked the ecm for codes, and since it has been unplugged for so long it just thinks that everything is fine so it flashes quickly constantly when put into the diagnosis mode. it does seem like the computer has put itself in a mode where it cuts fuel and ignition, because i have neither of those.

So my question is, what did i mess up by leaving my battery hooked up and unplugging things such as the TPS sensor, distributor plug from the distributor cap, and other plugs from around the throttle body......... could i have blown a fuse?!

PLEASE HELP ME!

hope any of you can give me some insight on what i f-ed up, i will be reading my workshop manual tonight as nighttime reading to see if tha gives me any insights...


anything is greatly appreciated!

This post has been edited by 94celicadude: Nov 22, 2007 - 2:59 PM

[94celicadude]

BUMP!!!!!

i really need help....

[joehernandez]

when you try to turn the car on, what happens?

[94celicadude]

everything is normal, then when i try to crank the car it turns over with no problems but it does not fire, not even just once or randomly, it just does not do anything but turn over on the starter. And like i stated previously, the spark plug is still dry after i try to crank it for a few secs, and i checked to see if i was getting a spark and there was no spark.

[joehernandez]

did you checked all the things you disconnected, that are back in like normal?

[Rusty]

new spark plugs maybe? (because you can get faulty ones)
try disconnecting the battery for a bit, double check wires

[94celicadude]

thnx for the input guys, the plugs are ok because the car ran on those spark plugs before i started any work, and the battery has been disconnected and i have double checked my connections, i will check again. Any other ideas?

[roelamizzle]

Do you have a Haynes repair manual? If so they have instructions for resetting the ECU differently than just disconnecting the battery. I cant remember the details exactly but it involves removing some specific fuse or fuses from the fuse box under the hood for a specific time period then replacing them. One of the fuses I believe was the EFI fuse. I can double check on the details once I get home from work if you dont have the Haynes book. Also you may have air in your fuel lines that needs to be cleared.

This post has been edited by roelamizzle: Nov 21, 2007 - 11:05 AM

[GriffGirl]

Hey, wait, I have instructions on how to reset the ECU... I gotta look for them. It's very easy though and takes about 10 minutes.

But wait, as I recall, you have to run the engine to temp before you actually do the resetting. I'll find the instructions anyway.

[joehernandez]

Hey, wait, I have instructions on how to reset the ECU... I gotta look for them. It's very easy though and takes about 10 minutes.

But wait, as I recall, you have to run the engine to temp before you actually do the resetting. I'll find the instructions anyway.

yeah , they are on the 6gc home page, just go to the how-to articles, there you will find how to reset your ECU

[GriffGirl]

http://www.6gc.net/howto/reset_your_air_fuel_ratio

There it is

[94celicadude]

thx but i have one step up from a haynes manual, i have an actual toyota workshop manual like the toyota mechanics would use....i talked to some mech. and they said it sounds like i have something unplugged, so i have to go and double check all that...thx guys

[joehernandez]

ok, keep us updated

[Dr_Tweak]

Got your email.

The ECU flashing out no codes indicates that the problem is not on the sensor side of the harness. Check to see if you have power on the power side of your 4 injector plugs. Also please describe to me how you checked for spark. Confirm that the coil and igniter are grounded to the chassis.

-Doc

[Bitter]

if the camshaft position sensor was at fault, you'd have neither fuel or spark. make sure the harness is plugged into the distributor and that you didnt pinch any wires. if you have a DVOM then you should be able to test to see if the sensor is putting out a signal (iirc should be low current AC voltage, i think its a hall effect sensor). however like tweak says, no codes flashed means its probably not a sensor issue as not having a CPS signal would toss a code during engine cranking. just to be sure, you checked all fuses carefully?

[94celicadude]

the spark was tested by removing the cylinder #1 plug and putting it back into the spark plug wire, then it was grounded to my headers and cranked, no spark was seen. I am leaning more towards the possibility that something could be unplugged, or that a wire could be pinched or cut, i do understand that a CPS code would show up during cranking, and also that it would throw out the fuel and spark simultaneously. I am going to take a closer look at it tom, it was 930 when i finished and i had just gotten off of work and i was getting frustrated, so i will take a better look with some daylight. Thanks guys, i will keep you posted.

[Bitter]

jumper TE2 to E1 while you're trying to start. its a special diagnostic mode that lowers the threshold for codes to be set, allowing them to set faster and more easily. the manual suggests this for intermittent issues or issues where the car will not start to be run long enough to set codes.

[94celicadude]

SHES ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i knew that a fresh start would allow me to find my fault, there are two plugs that go onto the distributor apart from the spark plug wires, and the plug on the top was in, and when i checked again the smaller one on the side was unplugged DUH so i plugged it in and she purred like a kitten

i really want to thank everyone that gave me input and things to check, i appreciate it so much and this is why i am checking these forums about 6 times a day (can we say addiction problem) lol

once again, thank you so much to everyone.

Matt

[Rusty]

well after we found out you had fuel, I was almost certain a spark/leads problem.

but glad to hear its running, sound much different or more responsive?

[94celicadude]

well, it is kind of hard to tell because the last time i drove the car it was about 70 degrees, and now its about 36, so the colder weather makes it feel more responsive and have more power of course. I think the biggest test will be to see how much my gas mileage will improve, which it has already. The flow numbers from RC Collins indicated that before cleaning one of the injectors had poor flow, two had fair flow and one had good flow. Now they are all excellent, so next tank full i will hopefully see some improvement. Thanks again all

Matt