tocking when i stop, What the heck? Options

[D-Man]

okay, so i just changed my rotors...

I did the pads as well, everything was done correctly. I live by the law of doing it once, and doing it right. However, with the new rotors, on the front driver side, there is a tocking noise when i stop (tick-TOCK) tock noise. I can feel it in my break pedal as well, and i had another member (an ace of trades) over this night to help me trouble shoot the problem...

At first i thought it to be a loose clip (between the caliper and the pad) but i have readjusted it 3 times, and with my buddy over we did it again. This time we bent the flex of the clip to ensure proper connectivity. However it still tocked...

It is a noise that you can not only hear, but feel as well in the pedal. It's driving me nuts. This was not an issue on the old rotors. Plus, i know for a fact that the rotors are not warped, it only does this on breaking.

could i get any ideas? help? something? WTF? theese are nice rotors and i dont wanna revert back due to this...

[thedrunkfish]

okay, so i just changed my rotors...

I did the pads as well, everything was done correctly. I live by the law of doing it once, and doing it right. However, with the new rotors, on the front driver side, there is a tocking noise when i stop (tick-TOCK) tock noise. I can feel it in my break pedal as well, and i had another member (an ace of trades) over this night to help me trouble shoot the problem...

At first i thought it to be a loose clip (between the caliper and the pad) but i have readjusted it 3 times, and with my buddy over we did it again. This time we bent the flex of the clip to ensure proper connectivity. However it still tocked...

It is a noise that you can not only hear, but feel as well in the pedal. It's driving me nuts. This was not an issue on the old rotors. Plus, i know for a fact that the rotors are not warped, it only does this on breaking.

could i get any ideas? help? something? WTF? theese are nice rotors and i dont wanna revert back due to this...

I had a similar problem with the back (tick tocking) and it was the brake pad moving around, the mechanic welded a little piece onto the brake pad to make it fit better, no knocking scince. Just my 2c

[808celica]

hmmm failing brake hydraulics???

hope not O__o

[D-Man]

the noise is adjacent with the revolution of the wheel (or rotor) It's only when breaking fairly hard.

*EDIT* ALSO, i need to fix this by friday, or i'm going to a local break place, and PAYING to have it fixed

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 9:30 AM

[D-Man]

bump

[D-Man]

someone? anyone? please?

[DEATH]

I like the moving pad idea - only problem is how to diagnose. Could simply be a problem with the pads or your caliper clips not holding them in place right. You did have four of those clips situated on each end of all four pads up front right?
BTW- Patience - someone on here will have the right answer [I think we may already have heard it] - I no longer think this is a life threatening situation [but def be carefull - we'll get it figured out]. Did you happen to keep your old pads? If so and if there is some life left in them, try switching them back on that wheel. If that fixes the problem then you can add one new pad back at a time until the problem comes back - then you'll know where it is. All of this should be done with slow 5-10mph driving/braking in an area where you know you won't get into traffic or problems.
There may be a better idea or a problem with mine but we are willing to listen to suggestions/critisisms

[LewFX]

my turn to take a crack at this:

1) did you put the 2 anti-rattle springs on the front pads?
2) did you use any anti-queel goop on the back of the pads t?
3) did you tighten your caliper bolt and make sure its tight and not just spinning freely because of that one annoying nut that you need to put a wrench on

[D-Man]

I like the moving pad idea - only problem is how to diagnose. Could simply be a problem with the pads or your caliper clips not holding them in place right. You did have four of those clips situated on each end of all four pads up front right?
BTW- Patience - someone on here will have the right answer [I think we may already have heard it] - I no longer think this is a life threatening situation [but def be carefull - we'll get it figured out]. Did you happen to keep your old pads? If so and if there is some life left in them, try switching them back on that wheel. If that fixes the problem then you can add one new pad back at a time until the problem comes back - then you'll know where it is. All of this should be done with slow 5-10mph driving/braking in an area where you know you won't get into traffic or problems.
There may be a better idea or a problem with mine but we are willing to listen to suggestions/critisisms

Yeah, i know it was dark last night, and hard to see under a black car, lol. But yeah, all 4 clips are on. And this morning, i felt that clip, and it was still holding (after i got to work)

Patience... I have as much patience as you (or the rest of us) have money... NO WHERE NEAR ENOUGH!! lol.

But for-sure, i'm going to swap out those pads tonight,and see how that treats me, if it still acts up, i think on friday, i'll flip that rotor and flip the pads back to see if it helps... Hopefuly it's something on those pads, bc i got the others (they were still good, i just wanted to install all the GT/hardcore stuff at once.)

my turn to take a crack at this:

1) did you put the 2 anti-rattle springs on the front pads?
2) did you use any anti-queel goop on the back of the pads t?
3) did you tighten your caliper bolt and make sure its tight and not just spinning freely because of that one annoying nut that you need to put a wrench on

1) there are 2per pad, total of 4 per caliper. Yes they are installed, and was thought to be the problem. But nope, they're not.
2) Pads came with it, and yup it was put on.
3) ask that member DEATH (above your post) he watched me secure it before he drove my car. it's tighter than my first girlfri.... nevermind. it's tight.

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:03 PM

[DEATH]

Yeah but he may have something there - you didn't use a backup wrench on the nut "underneath" the one you tightened did you?
Lew - you think this would cause that noise? I was sort of under the impression that if you didn' use a backup wrench but still got it tight itwould just bind up the caliper - but IDK cause I've always used one.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:09 PM

[LewFX]

it might be since the pad is still moving

take the long caliper bolt out...see if you can wrench that 17mm nut or whatever size it is...tighten that then try the caliper bolt with wrench on the nut

This post has been edited by LewFX: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:15 PM

[D-Man]

Yeah but he may have something there - you didn't use a backup wrench on the nut "underneath" the one you tightened did you?
Lew - you think this would cause that noise? I was sort of under the impression that if you didn' use a backup wrench but still got it tight itwould just bind up the caliper - but IDK cause I've always used one.

not to sound like a 'tard, but what do you mean "backup" wrench?

it might be since the pad is still moving

take the long caliper bolt out...see if you can wrench that 17mm nut or whatever size it is...tighten that then try the caliper bolt with wrench on the nut

Yeah, i've been using regular sockets...

So take off the caliper and the caliper-bracket? secure the caliper onto the bracket and replace as one assembly? Because the long bolt is on the bracket. (17mm or 18mm i believe)

How would that help? Or have i misunderstood completely?

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:23 PM

[DEATH]

right on - any other thoughts? I'm gonna try to get him to my garage where the tools light and heat will allow us to work better and longer. Unfortunately he's the proud father of a new born so getting time for this is tough. then again brakes are important to her daddy's safety too.
I'm free Sat morning for an in depth investigation. Or any night for an emergency situation or an hour or two w/e.
DON'T TAKE THIS TO A SO CALLED "PROFESSIONAL" yet

[LewFX]

no need to take caliper off..someone host a pic of the caliper so i can highlight the area

[DEATH]

Or have i misunderstood completely?

Bingo - I'm getting what he's saying tho.

[D-Man]

right on - any other thoughts? I'm gonna try to get him to my garage where the tools light and heat will allow us to work better and longer. Unfortunately he's the proud father of a new born so getting time for this is tough. then again brakes are important to her daddy's safety too.
I'm free Sat morning for an in depth investigation. Or any night for an emergency situation or an hour or two w/e.
DON'T TAKE THIS TO A SO CALLED "PROFESSIONAL" yet

yeah, thats deffienetly a plan for sat. morning. gotta figure out this break problem...

Not to mention

So I'm going to swap pads, and see whats up with this bolt too... See if i cant see anything... (in my cold & dark working/parking lot...) tonight, Because i'm scared it going to break something, Especialy if i'm crusin down eldrige pushing 60-65 (90-95 when i'm late for work) or one of our MANY freeways and have to crunch on em...

I know that i'll stop, the others are holding in perfect condition. But that one, it could really do some damage to the rotor, or maby to the calipers or worse.... And i dont wanna be shredding those beautiful new calipers; Death, you seen em.

So any 2cents would earn my thanks....anyone~

[D-Man]

no need to take caliper off..someone host a pic of the caliper so i can highlight the area

here's a few






i dont have any of the calp pulled all the way off....

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 12:46 PM

[DEATH]

You don't need it. Top right picture would be perfect if it was light enough to make out the diff parts. I can't from here but my monitor is a few years old flat screen - maybe someone else can? I can see whre it's at but couldn't make it out enough to explain it to you.

[D-Man]

You don't need it. Top right picture would be perfect if it was light enough to make out the diff parts. I can't from here but my monitor is a few years old flat screen - maybe someone else can? I can see whre it's at but couldn't make it out enough to explain it to you.

you know my phone sucks... remember the last houston meet? @ dennys? you and me were the only ones with pics... mine were blury and yours were dark, lol. We still need to put em together to make a decent camera for this saturday.

But it would be awsome if someone could break it down for me. Plus i made sure i had pics of all stages so if it'll help.

Oh death, on the 1st pic, the caliper isnt on. Its the pads and the caliper bracket only. lol. your moniter at work does suck huu?

[DEATH]

Not that bad - top RIGHT picture bro

[D-Man]

Not that bad - top RIGHT picture bro

oh... oops

[jason]

there should be 4 bolts in there, 2 17mm bolts that hold the cage thinger fast. then 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the cage. when you start the 14mm bolts, they go through the caliper and theres a little nut in there somewhere, you need to hold that and tighten, otherwise it may just tighten itself into the caliper and not move correctly, or it will back out and become loose giving your caliper some play, so when you tap the brakes it allows the caliper to move. since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.

just a thought =/ but good luck

edit - heres a pic, theres a round piece on the cage, then that nut, hold the nut with an open wrench, then put the bolt on and tighten down (like 30-40lbs)



This post has been edited by jason: Feb 27, 2008 - 2:00 PM

[D-Man]

there should be 4 bolts in there, 2 17mm bolts that hold the cage thinger fast. then 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the cage. when you start the 14mm bolts, they go through the caliper and theres a little nut in there somewhere, you need to hold that and tighten, otherwise it may just tighten itself into the caliper and not move correctly, or it will back out and become loose giving your caliper some play, so when you tap the brakes it allows the caliper to move. since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.

just a thought =/ but good luck

edit - heres a pic, theres a round piece on the cage, then that nut, hold the nut with an open wrench, then put the bolt on and tighten down (like 30-40lbs)

i see now. So i need to hold that nut, While tightning the bolt.

Okay, the last time i adjusted it (only the bolt), (the bolt) was holding tight. Should i use a wrench and bring the (nut) back a little bit; and then tighten the two together?

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 2:31 PM

[DEATH]

since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.

genius - we saw evidence of this on the corner of the offending pad. Now we're getting somewhere.

D-man to answer your question - i have no idea where we would find the measurement for this however, we can measure mine and start from there.
Or you could just change out those pesky rotors for my perfectly good working ones and problem solved

This post has been edited by DEATH: Feb 27, 2008 - 2:38 PM

[D-Man]

since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.

genius - we saw evidence of this on the corner of the offending pad. Now we're getting somewhere.

D-man to answer your question - i have no idea where we would find the measurement for this however, we can measure mine and start from there.
Or you could just change out those pesky rotors for my perfectly good working ones and problem solved

HAH-HAH!! And then i can just throw those pesky drilled and slotted rotors to the trash can (where you'll be waiting?) no~

But that does give me an idea... the front 2 rotors have a VERY small amount of play before you mount the tire on, I wonder if it's being held tightly, BUT sitting at an angle on the lug bolts? With the tire holding it on, it could very well be holding it at an angle, where just 1-2 bolt threads high; but would force the rotor to hit the caliper, and that would explain the feel of clucking, as well as feeling in the pedal. And would explain the synchronization of the rotation of the wheel and the clucking.

Now we've made some progress. P!SS OFF BREAK CHECK, I got 6gc.net

Lets find out tonight. I'll let you guys know in the morning. (Thanks Jason)

[D-Man]

edit: Repost

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 3:31 PM

[D-Man]

edit: re-post

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 3:30 PM

[jason]

i imagine the slight amount of play in the rotors is due to them not being machined perfectly, or being tightened 100% never really messed with that on my car.

as long as they are held on tight enough witht he wheels on to settle in i would imagine you are ok.

once everything is tightened up you should be good to go.

if the corner of the pad is worn a bit goofy you may still hear some noise at first till it wears even.

[D-Man]

i imagine the slight amount of play in the rotors is due to them not being machined perfectly, or being tightened 100% never really messed with that on my car.

as long as they are held on tight enough witht he wheels on to settle in i would imagine you are ok.

once everything is tightened up you should be good to go.

if the corner of the pad is worn a bit goofy you may still hear some noise at first till it wears even.

Right-on.

I'm going to duck-tape the rotor in place from one side; around my strut, and back to the rotor to hold it tight while i mount my tire. That way, i can rather fix or eliminate this idea. It sounds perfectly possible to me.

If not then saturday morning at death's house measuring break pads, rotors, calipers and such. lol.

[LewFX]

you can buy the a anti-rattle kit at the dealer for under 10 bucks which has 4 springs, 4 clips

[D-Man]

you can buy the a anti-rattle kit at the dealer for under 10 bucks which has 4 springs, 4 clips

oh no, this is MUCH worse than any squeek or squeel. This is car shaking pedal bouncing kind of action. I''m scared my pad i's going to fly off in 2 peices, lol. Or that my rotor is going to crack.

[GriffGirl]

what about checking just the really simple stuff first? The rotor wouldn't show symptoms of being warped all the time if it was warped, it would (in my experience) primarily exhibit symptoms when breaking. Defective new rotors aren't terribly uncommon. Sometimes they can become that way just sitting on the shelf for a long period of time. Having them turned (if you didn't have them turned before putting them on) will tell you if they're warped or not.

Also, what about grease on the brake pad on the offending side? This'll screw up your braking too, big time from what I understand.

[D-Man]

what about checking just the really simple stuff first? The rotor wouldn't show symptoms of being warped all the time if it was warped, it would (in my experience) primarily exhibit symptoms when breaking. Defective new rotors aren't terribly uncommon. Sometimes they can become that way just sitting on the shelf for a long period of time. Having them turned (if you didn't have them turned before putting them on) will tell you if they're warped or not.

Also, what about grease on the brake pad on the offending side? This'll screw up your braking too, big time from what I understand.

we already covered this. It's greased. It's good. Ask death, he was at my house last night, he drove it. Its pretty violent. I'm scared of something breaking due to the violent power of this noise. You hear it, you feel it. You FEAR it, lol. ANd it's on those new Drilled and Sloted rotors i just bough.

Yeah, right they could be warped, but i dont believe so. (besides, i'd be F-ed if they were, lol, i dont think those old people from craigslist will give a refund for defective merchandise) but as for having them turned, We're poor folk here in texas, griff. We're cool(as you said before), but were also very broke. lol. Thats why i do everything myself, I couldn't afford to pay someone to help me if i wanted to.

I bribed death with alcohol for his assistance.

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 27, 2008 - 5:49 PM

[DEATH]

I bribed death with alcohol for his assistance.

I took the alcohol as icing - ask Havok, Panda, Ngofcukingway, Griffgirl etc. - I actually like helping people with their Celicas.
I thought your PM said you fixed the problem and have a new one?

[D-Man]

OKAY problem solved. but lets review a few notes...

1) do NOT buy cheap jackstands. The stock jack can NOT support the weight of your car. and it is NOT fun when your car falls on your shoulder.

2) Cold beer fixes a hurt shoulder.

3) i shall invest in some EXPENSIVE jackstands this weekend!

Turns out that the problem was in the pads. It would seem that theese pads didnt fit properly. I'll get the brand up tommorow so that no one ever buys them. lol. As for my problem, i've a new one.

[DEATH]

OKAY problem solved. but lets review a few notes...

1) do NOT buy cheap jackstands. The stock jack can NOT support the weight of your car. and it is NOT fun when your car falls on your shoulder.

2) Cold beer fixes a hurt shoulder.

3) i shall invest in some EXPENSIVE jackstands this weekend!

Turns out that the problem was in the pads. It would seem that theese pads didnt fit properly. I'll get the brand up tommorow so that no one ever buys them. lol. As for my problem, i've a new one.

$hit man - you got under the car on stock jack? You can always stop by and borrow tools - I know where you live.
Wait - we need closure - so the ears on the pads were too small to hold them properly?
BTW - I have a set of new pads for the rear in my garage - $25 [and they are the good parts store kind - not the cheap ones]. Even so I must say [for the 1000X - nothing beats stock or pref TRD for quality]

[D-Man]

OKAY problem solved. but lets review a few notes...

1) do NOT buy cheap jackstands. The stock jack can NOT support the weight of your car. and it is NOT fun when your car falls on your shoulder.

2) Cold beer fixes a hurt shoulder.

3) i shall invest in some EXPENSIVE jackstands this weekend!

Turns out that the problem was in the pads. It would seem that theese pads didnt fit properly. I'll get the brand up tommorow so that no one ever buys them. lol. As for my problem, i've a new one.

$hit man - you got under the car on stock jack? You can always stop by and borrow tools - I know where you live.
Wait - we need closure - so the ears on the pads were too small to hold them properly?
BTW - I have a set of new pads for the rear in my garage - $25 [and they are the good parts store kind - not the cheap ones]. Even so I must say [for the 1000X - nothing beats stock or pref TRD for quality]

no, my old ones were new, maby 4-6 weeks old, they just need more grease now. lol.

Yeah, it seems that the ear was too small on one.

So i changed em both out.

My jack stand went into peices, And the jack was no match for the weight of the car. We need to get together with a rubber mallet and beat the rotor guard back into place. I dont tock anymore, but i grind when i make a right hand turn. D@mnit...

[D-Man]

and wholey crap!! when i stop, i STOP!!

[DEATH]

OKAY problem solved. but lets review a few notes...

1) do NOT buy cheap jackstands. The stock jack can NOT support the weight of your car. and it is NOT fun when your car falls on your shoulder.

2) Cold beer fixes a hurt shoulder.

3) i shall invest in some EXPENSIVE jackstands this weekend!

Turns out that the problem was in the pads. It would seem that theese pads didnt fit properly. I'll get the brand up tommorow so that no one ever buys them. lol. As for my problem, i've a new one.

$hit man - you got under the car on stock jack? You can always stop by and borrow tools - I know where you live.
Wait - we need closure - so the ears on the pads were too small to hold them properly?
BTW - I have a set of new pads for the rear in my garage - $25 [and they are the good parts store kind - not the cheap ones]. Even so I must say [for the 1000X - nothing beats stock or pref TRD for quality]

no, my old ones were new, maby 4-6 weeks old, they just need more grease now. lol.

Yeah, it seems that the ear was too small on one.

So i changed em both out.

My jack stand went into peices, And the jack was no match for the weight of the car. We need to get together with a rubber mallet and beat the rotor guard back into place. I dont tock anymore, but i grind when i make a right hand turn. D@mnit...

Yeah I got one. So are you currently driving on one side new, one side old?
Bring me the other old one [for size comparison] and the offending pad and I'll do the weld trick someone else was talking about above. I'll even grind it smooth and Mic it for a perfect fit. BS tho - you shouldn't have to do that.