Finished my project, but a few issues. Options

[bccentaur3]

So, I took the car out on test drive to see how it would run and to get my exhaust done. I know I wasnt supposed to hit boost, so I tried to keep it down. Well after shifting is my bov suppose to go off? Even if I dont hit boost? So after this, hoping I didnt hit boost, because my boost gauge didnt even go into boost. So am I okay? Well any way my car started smoking so I checked under the car and I sprung a leak with the coolant lines. I'll have to redo the lines tomorrow, but Im just a little worried I messed it up.

This post has been edited by bccentaur3: Mar 13, 2008 - 8:49 PM

[presure2]

So, I took the car out on test drive to see how it would run and to get my exhaust done. I know I wasnt supposed to hit boost, so I tried to keep it down. Well after shifting is my bov suppose to go off? Even if I dont hit boost? So after this, hoping I didnt hit boost, because my boost gauge didnt even go into boost. So am I okay? Well any way my car started smoking so I checked under the car and I sprung a leak with the coolant lines. I'll have to redo the lines tomorrow, but Im just a little worried I messed it up.

yup.
my blowoff valve goes off well below the boost threshold., depends on how you roll in and out of the gas.

[bccentaur3]

Okay, I was almost crapping on myself. Well, do you think the smoking might have been the coolant leak?

[politicsareevil]

x2 on the bov thing... Your bov will go off all the time you shift. you might not have boost but you do have pressure in your manifold where your vacuum line comes off of. It regulates itself and releases the pressure built up when the throttle body butterfly closes.

- Matt

[lagos]

Okay, I was almost crapping on myself. Well, do you think the smoking might have been the coolant leak?

Hmm lets see....... yes!

[x_itchy_b_x]

yes the bov will still go off. the turbine is still spinning, in fact it spins at idle and as soon as you close the throttle body the turbine just having that spinning inertia will push "pressure" out.

[bccentaur3]

alright....sounds good. I gotta fix the coolant leak tomorrow, then get my exhaust done. And tuned Saturday. Lets hope I won't spring another leak.

[bccentaur3]

Okay, its been a few days since the turbo install and now I'm a little concerned with some problems. I have scheduled some dyno time on Monday, but need some help on diagnosing some issues.

1. I keep getting white smoke out of my tail pipe. I'm a little concered with the head gasket now, but I don't get any of that milky stuff in my oil or have oil in my coolant lines.

2. I looked on the compressor side of the turbo and spotted a tad bit of oil. So I just whiped it up with my finger.

3. At idle, how come my oil pressure gauge is reading at 40psi? SHouldn't it be like 20? And after getting my exhaust done, I noticed that my idle would fluctuate and my oil pressure gauge would bounce up and down.

4. How come at idle I am at like 2K rpm. My boost/vacuum gauge is reading a little over 20 vac.


Any help would greatly be appreciated. btw, I am not tuned YET.

[rjbibeau]

the high idle is becuase your not tuned yet. your running bigger injectors...so its rich. the oil pressure should be around 40ish at idle. as far as the oil in the turbo...it's your seals...depending on how much it burns from the tailpipe when you boost will determine how bad it really is. vac reading is normal...mine reads the same.

[bccentaur3]

But wouldn't blue smoke mean that my turbo is bad? I'm getting white smoke.

[pabel89]

when i wasnt boosting in my car, it was smoking alot. my problem was that my intercooler pipe wasnt connected to the turbo so it wouldnt boost...so what i did was connect it and took the spring out of the wastegate...also might be that you need an oil reducer.

[bccentaur3]

I have an inline reducer already. All the pipes and everything hooked up properly.

[rjbibeau]

does the smoke smell like coolant?

[bccentaur3]

I'm not sure. Lets just say at stop lights the car smokes really bad. And when I shift a huge puff of smoke comes out. I figured it was the fact that I routed the hose from my pcv to the intake manifold. So I routed into the intake from the turbo and capped off the intake manifold nipple. But still smokes.

[rjbibeau]

ya it's your seals....unfortunately. did you buy it from a member on here or is it an ebay one.

[bccentaur3]

I bought it off of mr2oc. Btw the guy never gave me my money back for the map sensor I paid for, but what ever. Its not like I can get my money back now. So the white smoke is my turbo seals? I always thought it would be a head gasket issue. Isn't the smoke suppose to be blue if its the seals?

[bccentaur3]

If in fact my seals are really gone. Where can I get my turbo rebuilt and for how much normally? Not looking to upgrade anything, just want the factory specs.

[Muggs]

I sent mine to majestic turbo and it cost about $300, and I had it back in less than 2 weeks.

[bccentaur3]

Alright, I guess I'll give them a shot. But it just sucks with the fact that my car will be down for even more time. Damn, really pissed.

[bccentaur3]

So I came out to the car today and noticed that I had some residue on my muffler. Whipped my finger on it and it totally smelt like a mixture of gas and oil.

[bccentaur3]

So I was googling my issues and this is what I found.

if the engine is running rich you would be pumping black smoke, unless it is REALLY dumping fuel, then the white smoke would be the unburnt fuel burning when it hits the header, also your header would be bright red if it were running that rich and you would have like no gas mileage.

Qouted some guy from a honda forum. Am I really running that rich?

I'm going to get tuned tomorrow, and hopefully this issue will go away, but this has got me worried. I mean I'm getting like little tiny droplets of liquid on my muffler. Smelled it and it was straight up gas.

[lagos]

^ what do you expect will happen when you put it much larger injectors on an ecu thats programmed to control smaller ones? You need to get the car tuned.

...and make sure both your pcv and idle hoses are hooked up to the intake, before the turbo.

[presure2]

yea, if your not pulling out fuel, especially at idle and low load situations, you'll be just rediculously rich.

[bccentaur3]

I routed the pcv tube to the intake from my turbo and capped off the tube on the throttle body. Ain't i supposed to leave the pcv valve alone? And what idle hose?

Even when I was driving to and from to get my exhaust done, I had a redicilous amount of smoke coming out the whole time.

[presure2]

I routed the pcv tube to the intake from my turbo and capped off the tube on the throttle body. Ain't i supposed to leave the pcv valve alone? And what idle hose?

Even when I was driving to and from to get my exhaust done, I had a redicilous amount of smoke coming out the whole time.

what are you using to tune the car?
are you pulling any fuel?

[bccentaur3]

I'm using the AFC neo. I thought I pulled enough fuel with that write up someone did on the forced induction page. How much should I bve pulling out at idle?

[bccentaur3]

I think i pulled about 28% at idle. is that no good?

[bccentaur3]

okay, checked my settings and at 800 rpms, I have it set at -39%. Still smoking like crazy.

[bccentaur3]

Okay, took the car to get dyno tuned on Monday and got some bad news. Well the guy tuned it run a lot smoother now, but couldn't finish the tune because I have no boost. My car won't go into boost at all. So the tuner told me to look at my injectors because that could've caused the major boost leak. Got home took all my injectors out and found out that the one he thought was leaking was actually leaking due to not having an o ring on there. I could have sworn when I put my injectors in all of them had all the seals and rings on there. So any way I replaced that o ring and no more fuel leak. So I took it out and still no boost. I hear the turbo spooling up just fine, but the car just won't go into boost. Where could I be leaking that bad to not make any boost what so ever?

I checked my wastegate actuator arm and its still stiff. So could it be due to an open wastegate. Should I just pull the turbo and see whats going on? I mean I don't hear any major leaks like before. Someone please help. I've put sooo much money into this project and its just not running the way I've always dreamed it would be running.

[bccentaur3]

So I decided to cap off my other wastegate nipple just to see what happens. Still no boost. And my bov won't even go off any more. Well I do have an ebay bov. I decided when I first got it to take out one of the springs. When I did that my bov was going off like crazy. So after awhle I thought that just having one spring was giving me leaks. So I decided to put on the other spring. Driving the car around just to see what happens bov went off fine. But after the partial tune no BOV or boost. What could be the case?

[trdproven]

That does sound rich.

[jcaron9gt4]

there has to be a leak somewhere. if you hear the turbo spooling, follow your piping up to the TB and just look for any rip in a coupler, anything. After i first boosted my 5's, i was only topping out at 2psi, looked everywhere for a leak, and finally found one on the under side of one of my 90 degree couplers.

[bccentaur3]

Found my problem. I'm such an idot. I tell you what I am no longer going to work in the dark. The guy at the tuning shop couldn't even spot this. It was right behind the bumper by the wheel well. My intercooler piping blew off.

[jcaron9gt4]

+ 5 points for me

[bccentaur3]

lol, funny guy..... Yeah I feel soooo stupid. But now its off to the dyno once again. SO I was out a little bit ago and yeah I know I haven't been tuned with boost yet. But Its sooooo shaky. I don't like it very much.

[6strngs]

smoke is reduced/gone though after replacing the injector O-ring though? wow, there's something about injector o-rings on 5s's that like to break. lol. I had 3 different ones break. after the second time, I had the injectors all cleaned and got new o-rings and coated them in gasoline like you're supposed to and did everything right and another still broke. And CaliJeff had one break after he did his project and now you. sheesh!

[bccentaur3]

Why is this? I honestly think mine broke due to rushing. If I wasn't doing all of this in 10 degree weather I think I might not even be on here asking such silly questions about why my project isn't going to well.

[6strngs]

I have no idea why they break. If you re-used yours from your stock injectors, well, then it's a given. you are supposed to replace them all everytime you take off the fuel rail. but if they were all new, then who knows.

[bccentaur3]

Well I stupidly re-used them. Well since I was unaware of having to replace the o-rings, I guess I wasn't so stupid just ignorant. But all is well. I don't mind pulling the injectors anyway.

[bccentaur3]

Okay, a few more issues have arrived. So lately I've been noticing a puff of white smoke coming out of my exhaust when I stomp on it. But when I'm just cruising around there is no smoke visible from the rear view mirrow, but my girl friend tells me she can see smoke. I checked my coolant no signs of oil and checked my oil no signs of milky stuff.

BUT I took the piping off of my turbo compressor and spotted oil all over the piping and a puddle sitting on my compressor. Its not black either, looks to me like fresh oil.

Could some help me diagnose my problems. I will be doing a compression test, but lets just say my compression is good. is the issue my valves?

But to me the obvious thing is my turbo, but wouldn't I be blowing blue smoke?

HELP!!! SOS someone please help me.

[blckcelica95]

Okay, a few more issues have arrived. So lately I've been noticing a puff of white smoke coming out of my exhaust when I stomp on it. But when I'm just cruising around there is no smoke visible from the rear view mirrow, but my girl friend tells me she can see smoke. I checked my coolant no signs of oil and checked my oil no signs of milky stuff.

BUT I took the piping off of my turbo compressor and spotted oil all over the piping and a puddle sitting on my compressor. Its not black either, looks to me like fresh oil.

Could some help me diagnose my problems. I will be doing a compression test, but lets just say my compression is good. is the issue my valves?

But to me the obvious thing is my turbo, but wouldn't I be blowing blue smoke?

HELP!!! SOS someone please help me.

my turbo did the same thing...... then about a month later it was out, getting rebuilt. white smoke can be oil buring in the exhuast. check the turbo for play. that what i would check.

[bccentaur3]

Theres play side to side but a little. There is also a little in and out play.

[jcaron9gt4]

same thing here...everytime i step on it, i get white smoke coming out. Just bought a new turbo, hopefully will be here by the end of the week so i know if thats the problem or not.

[bccentaur3]

well you know how you are suppose to cap the vacuum port on the throttle body that was connected to the valve cover? Well I capped that off, but I am routing the valve cover port to the intake from the turbo. But the nipple on the intake is tiny. Could that be restricting the the vent? Or should I just buy a tiny air filter and put that on the valve cover and see what happens?

[bccentaur3]

So I put that filter on the crank case vent not the pcv. Well took it for a drive and smelled oil. So I poped the hood and guess what the filter is totally filled with oil. I checked my turbo again no in and out play and barely any shaft play side to side. So I'm assuming there is something wrong with my motor. Someone just clarify that my motor is blown so I can just order a new motor.

[6strngs]

So I put that filter on the crank case vent not the pcv. Well took it for a drive and smelled oil. So I poped the hood and guess what the filter is totally filled with oil. I checked my turbo again no in and out play and barely any shaft play side to side. So I'm assuming there is something wrong with my motor. Someone just clarify that my motor is blown so I can just order a new motor.

time for a catch can? excessive blow-by gasses could be caused by worn piston rings I'd do a compression check to see if any are low.

[bccentaur3]

I'm on that today. I'll post results and you guys can let me know. Now, I'm off to class.

[bccentaur3]

Okay

Cylinder 1= 190 psi 2= 100 psi 3= 140 psi 4= 180 psi


So without a leak down test what does this tell you? Btw I am done driving her until I can rebuild the block.

[pabel89]

where do you get these commpresion checks done?

[6strngs]

it tells me that cylinder 2 is gone and cylinder 3 is pretty much toast too. you should also do a wet compression test. basically you put a little bit of oil (my automotive book for school says about a 1/2 ounce) through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and do the compression check again. if the number goes up it means the problem is the cylinder rings, and if the number stays the same it means the head gasket or a valve is burnt.

btw, if you've never done a compression check before and have never been taught to do it correctly, you've got to crank the cylinders the same number of times... meaning when you're cranking for cylinder 1 you hear the engine go DAH-da-da-da-DAH-da-da-da... etc. the higher pitched one is the cylinder you are checking and when doing the test. You've gotta make sure you crank each cylinder either 4 or 5 times (as long as you do the same number for every cylinder) because if you crank one cylinder 5 times and the next only 3, obviously the numbers will be low.

If you already knew all that then I apologize, I just want to make sure you're getting accurate numbers before you spend all the time and money rebuilding the engine.

where do you get these commpresion checks done?

any automotive service shop will do it, or, you can buy a compression tester at any auto parts store for $20-30. If you can change your own spark plugs, you can check your compression, you just need a friend to help you.

[x_itchy_b_x]

what i see here is compression from the cylinders leaking past the rings and pressurizing the crankcase. a pressurized crank case makes it hard for a gravity oil return line to work properly. the oil backs up and then you see smoke come out your turbo because its pushing oil out the seals because you cant get the oil back in the pan quick enough. you could also be burning more then normal amounts of oil if your compression numbers are that low.

[bccentaur3]

it tells me that cylinder 2 is gone and cylinder 3 is pretty much toast too. you should also do a wet compression test. basically you put a little bit of oil (my automotive book for school says about a 1/2 ounce) through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and do the compression check again. if the number goes up it means the problem is the cylinder rings, and if the number stays the same it means the head gasket or a valve is burnt.

btw, if you've never done a compression check before and have never been taught to do it correctly, you've got to crank the cylinders the same number of times... meaning when you're cranking for cylinder 1 you hear the engine go DAH-da-da-da-DAH-da-da-da... etc. the higher pitched one is the cylinder you are checking and when doing the test. You've gotta make sure you crank each cylinder either 4 or 5 times (as long as you do the same number for every cylinder) because if you crank one cylinder 5 times and the next only 3, obviously the numbers will be low.

If you already knew all that then I apologize, I just want to make sure you're getting accurate numbers before you spend all the time and money rebuilding the engine.

where do you get these commpresion checks done?

any automotive service shop will do it, or, you can buy a compression tester at any auto parts store for $20-30. If you can change your own spark plugs, you can check your compression, you just need a friend to help you.

Thanks, but I already know how to do the compression test. I just ran out of day light to do the wet test. Will do it tomorrow, but I already have plans for my motor. I think I'm just going to take my motor out and take it to a shop and have them inspect it. My plans for right now is to use some forged pistons on my factory rods and get some head work done. So basically the only things that are being upgraded is the froged pistons and regrind cams. I think I can get my head ported and poilished for a good deal. I'm expecting a call from the shop today.

[presure2]

it tells me that cylinder 2 is gone and cylinder 3 is pretty much toast too. you should also do a wet compression test. basically you put a little bit of oil (my automotive book for school says about a 1/2 ounce) through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and do the compression check again. if the number goes up it means the problem is the cylinder rings, and if the number stays the same it means the head gasket or a valve is burnt.

btw, if you've never done a compression check before and have never been taught to do it correctly, you've got to crank the cylinders the same number of times... meaning when you're cranking for cylinder 1 you hear the engine go DAH-da-da-da-DAH-da-da-da... etc. the higher pitched one is the cylinder you are checking and when doing the test. You've gotta make sure you crank each cylinder either 4 or 5 times (as long as you do the same number for every cylinder) because if you crank one cylinder 5 times and the next only 3, obviously the numbers will be low.

If you already knew all that then I apologize, I just want to make sure you're getting accurate numbers before you spend all the time and money rebuilding the engine.

where do you get these commpresion checks done?

any automotive service shop will do it, or, you can buy a compression tester at any auto parts store for $20-30. If you can change your own spark plugs, you can check your compression, you just need a friend to help you.

Thanks, but I already know how to do the compression test. I just ran out of day light to do the wet test. Will do it tomorrow, but I already have plans for my motor. I think I'm just going to take my motor out and take it to a shop and have them inspect it. My plans for right now is to use some forged pistons on my factory rods and get some head work done. So basically the only things that are being upgraded is the froged pistons and regrind cams. I think I can get my head ported and poilished for a good deal. I'm expecting a call from the shop today.

i would source a set of 3s rods, and have the 5s crank machined to accept them.
the weak point on the 5s rods is the bolts, which ARP does not have an application for.

[bccentaur3]

I was actually reseacrhing on the 3s rods. Well on ebay they are selling Eagle 3s rods for about $330 with the arp rod bolts too. Should I go that route? Or should I be cautious with that? Let me know, because I don't want to pull the trigger too early and screw myself.

[pabel89]

i get alot of blow by gases, but randomly not all the time, like 3 times a day i can hear it its like if it were back fireing but way lower. would that affect my tune, what can i do to fix this problem?

This post has been edited by pabel89: Apr 8, 2008 - 2:19 PM

[presure2]

I was actually reseacrhing on the 3s rods. Well on ebay they are selling Eagle 3s rods for about $330 with the arp rod bolts too. Should I go that route? Or should I be cautious with that? Let me know, because I don't want to pull the trigger too early and screw myself.

well, if you have the budget for them sure, the eagles are an even better choice (theyre lighter).
if not, you can usually score a set of 3s rods pretty cheap over on mr2oc or alltrac.net (under 100$)

[bccentaur3]

Wow, I never thought of that. Thanks for the advice manny. And yes, I do have a budget and my moms on the brink of killing me if I don't stop spending money on my car.

[bccentaur3]

Thanks to Manny, I managed to score myself some 3s rods for 60 shipped. WOOT!!!!! Now I gotta source out some pistons. Trying to decide right now if I should get them before I send my block out. Not sure if I have any scratched on the cylinder walls.