drilled and sloted Options

[Dragondog]

where is a good place i can get drilled and sloted rotors......no i wont do it to standerd disks......i found a place in ca that sells them for 69$ for frt pair what do you think others for 107$ a disk

[D-Man]

where is a good place i can get drilled and sloted rotors......no i wont do it to standerd disks......i found a place in ca that sells them for 69$ for frt pair what do you think others for 107$ a disk

okay, this is tricky. i am heading a deal for Houston members associated with a paticular car club and its owners, and i have to tell you right now, that if your buying for just yourself, and you want something thats not going to crap out on you, your looking at $400+

now if you DO decided to cheap out, think about how much fun it's be to have the rotors break while driving, at 60mph, cracking and hooking itself to your strut.... one wheel dead stop.... Most wouldn't live to tell about it.

or better yet, 80mph and they shatter... no breaking capabilities what-so-ever. Ask anyone, there IS indeed metal that cheap, that it breaks and bends like that, Especialy under heat and pressure.

Now ask yourself HOW does somthing that cost anywhere from $250-500(pair), get sold for $68(pair)?

Give me an answer and you wont want them anymore. This is your life we're talking about.

[Dragondog]

if i go for the ones running about 107 a disk (214$) pair, would that do? do you have a brand i should be looking for and or a site......brands do matter to me as well as quality but i am on a budget

[D-Man]

I'd have to tell you the brands when i get home, I've got 3-4 pages of research that i dont carry with me to my office.

But if you want to wait, and send a link of this thread to my PM, then i'll hook you up with the best of my knolage.

[DEATH]

if i go for the ones running about 107 a disk (214$) pair, would that do? do you have a brand i should be looking for and or a site......brands do matter to me as well as quality but i am on a budget

You can never go wrong with Brembo.
D-man - If he's willing to pay shipping maybe we should get him in on our deal to make the 5 required sets?

[pabel89]

i got mines on ebay for $100 both.

[D-Man]

if i go for the ones running about 107 a disk (214$) pair, would that do? do you have a brand i should be looking for and or a site......brands do matter to me as well as quality but i am on a budget

You can never go wrong with Brembo.
D-man - If he's willing to pay shipping maybe we should get him in on our deal to make the 5 required sets?

i dont see why not, dragondog Where in texas are you? i dont want to try to kill my grand deal with more shipping. if your close enough, maybe we could meet?

This post has been edited by D-Man: Mar 28, 2008 - 3:15 PM

[jason]

not going to link, but pretty much every thread that results from someone wanting these ends with this:

back in the day, performance brake pads were made from a material that broke down under high temps, it then emitted gases, which messed with the rotors.

so they drilled them to allow the gases to escape.

now, brake pads dont do that, the whole theory that most people give to having drilled rotors is for cooling... but vented rotors with veins, the veins do 99% of the cooling.

heat and air etc is going to follow the path of least resistance, ie travel through a pipe that is heat wrapped to colder air to disapate, of try and bleed through the insulated pipe...

same with the rotor, is air going to flow with the rest of the air in the vein, or is it going to make 90° bends and be all turbulant.

i think you should just find a set of slotted & vented rotors, put them on the correct direction and call it a day. will save you a couple hundred because you can get quality slotted rotors at a fair price compared to both drilled and slotted.

if you complain about paying an extra $200 for brake parts... imagine what that difference will do when you need to stop and something breaks.

most people just get brembo blanks, good brake pads, and steel braided brake lines. thats enough for a swapped car going 120mph, and will only run you $400 for the whole setup

[D-Man]

not going to link, but pretty much every thread that results from someone wanting these ends with this:

back in the day, performance brake pads were made from a material that broke down under high temps, it then emitted gases, which messed with the rotors.

so they drilled them to allow the gases to escape.

now, brake pads dont do that, the whole theory that most people give to having drilled rotors is for cooling... but vented rotors with veins, the veins do 99% of the cooling.

heat and air etc is going to follow the path of least resistance, ie travel through a pipe that is heat wrapped to colder air to disapate, of try and bleed through the insulated pipe...

same with the rotor, is air going to flow with the rest of the air in the vein, or is it going to make 90° bends and be all turbulant.

i think you should just find a set of slotted & vented rotors, put them on the correct direction and call it a day. will save you a couple hundred because you can get quality slotted rotors at a fair price compared to both drilled and slotted.

if you complain about paying an extra $200 for brake parts... imagine what that difference will do when you need to stop and something breaks.

most people just get brembo blanks, good brake pads, and steel braided brake lines. thats enough for a swapped car going 120mph, and will only run you $400 for the whole setup

NO WAY, they add a level of traction with the pads i have, able to stop like my oem's were never capable of.

i've bottomed out my front at a 35mph stop. And have no suspension work whatsoever.

This is the reason i purchased them. I lost my last (EXPENSIVE) car due to breaking issues, and i wont settle for anything but the best from now on.

(i also want to get rid of the F-ing air bag... that didnt help me at all...)

[Dragondog]

I LIVE IN LUBBOCK...........AND IS SLOTTED NOT THE SAME A VENTED?......I NEED ROTORS FAST MY ORIGINALS (FRNT)....R WARPED...WOULDNT MIND THE WHOLE SET THO...BUT MAINLY FRNT......I WILL BE GOING TO HOUSTON ON THE 18TH OF APRIL BUT I WILL NOT HAVE MY CAR CONSIDERING ITS CONDITION....ILL BE UP THERE TILL THE 3RD OF MAY

This post has been edited by Dragondog: Mar 28, 2008 - 4:11 PM

[D-Man]

I LIVE IN LUBBOCK...........AND IS SLOTTED NOT THE SAME A VENTED?......I NEED ROTORS FAST MY ORIGINALS (FRNT)....R WARPED...WOULDNT MIND THE WHOLE SET THO...BUT MAINLY FRNT......I WILL BE GOING TO HOUSTON ON THE 18TH OF APRIL BUT I WILL NOT HAVE MY CAR CONSIDERING ITS CONDITION....ILL BE UP THERE TILL THE 3RD OF MAY

damn, lubbock is pretty far away...

Well, no matter what, i got some stock rotors for sale. They need a lil WD40 and a brush up, then they'll sparkle like new. They're only about a year old or less. Most of that time they were parked. The action point is smooth as glass, smooth like a baby's butt... I have a new born, but i dont change diapers, (that's what my gal is for ) but i hear those butts are pretty smooth. lol.

I dont think those rotors have even seen one break pad change. That clean. If you want to buy those i can sell em to you for cheaper. As for the buy us houston guys have going on, then you got till you come down to get some money saved up.

Otherwise, i could sell you the OEM spec ones for cheaper and ship em to ya. It's all about what you wanna do.

Drilled is the holes, slotted is the groved lines. Some have one, some have the other, some have both. I have both.

[Dragondog]

LOL I NEW YOU WERE GOING TO BE IN HOUSTON EVERY1 IS IN HOUSTON..........LET ME KNOW WHATS UP ON THE BUY I DO HAVE A FEW SAVED UP NOW THATS WHY IM SHOPING BUT LET ME KNOW CUZ IF I LIKE IT THEN ILL KEEP SAVING OTHERWISE ILL HAVE TO KEEP WEB HUNTING

[GriffGirl]

I'm told these are decent but I don't know first hand

http://www.brakeplanet.com/

[DEATH]

LOL I NEW YOU WERE GOING TO BE IN HOUSTON EVERY1 IS IN HOUSTON..........LET ME KNOW WHATS UP ON THE BUY I DO HAVE A FEW SAVED UP NOW THATS WHY IM SHOPING BUT LET ME KNOW CUZ IF I LIKE IT THEN ILL KEEP SAVING OTHERWISE ILL HAVE TO KEEP WEB HUNTING

No point in going elsewhere. D-man is offering you a choice of either his old ones [which I'll vouch for are in excellent shape] or some of the ones like he posted a pic of. Bring either $200 for those or work out a deal with him for his used ones and if you get him money ahead of time I can have them resurfaced for you so they are ready to go when you get here

[6_GEN]

DONT BUY FROM EBAY!!! THEY WILL CRACK!

Speaking from personal experience.

[Dragondog]

200$ SOUNDS GOOD TO ME I WOULD TAKE U UP ON THE OFFER BOUT THE STOCK BUT IM WANT DRILLED AND SLOTTED AND RELIABLE...I DO ALOT OF RACING AS IS....AND LOOKING TO FIX IT UP MORE.....I HAVE WELL ENOUGH SAVED UP.......WHAT BRAND R THE DRILLED AND SLOTTED? are they brembo?....im looking for some (blue) coilovers too....

This post has been edited by Dragondog: Mar 29, 2008 - 10:01 AM

[D-Man]

actualy, thanks to griff girl, i may be able to get em for cheaper.

I'm not sure what brand they are, but they seem to be the exact same ones that i have on Breakplanet. I'm going to call and see if i can get us under the $200 range because they have a pretty good deal going already...

I was getting from here:
http://www.autoall.com/toyota-celica-rotors.htm

But after looking at theese:
http://stores.brakeplanet.com/Items/nl0172...%20Brake%20Pads

thats a full set for 230+ shipping, i bet i could get em down to 150-170 depending on shipping and all. And how many we ordered...

[Dragondog]

when i was web hunting i was looking at those too....but i noticed no brand name wich got me woundering........as you mentioned b4 no one wants to be racing or driving and then a disk shatters because of cheap metal.....do you trust these disks.........right now what ur offering me sounds real good for a full set what i want is qualifingly realiable garentee........

This post has been edited by Dragondog: Mar 29, 2008 - 10:38 AM

[D-Man]

when i was web hunting i was looking at those too....but i noticed no brand name wich got me woundering........as you mentioned b4 no one wants to be racing or driving and then a disk shatters because of cheap metal.....do you trust these disks.........right now what ur offering me sounds real good for a full set what i want is qualifingly realiable garentee........

is the reason i call before anything. i talk to whoever i have to to get all the info.

dont worry, i got everyone's back. i dont wanna be the one responsible if they suck.

[Dragondog]

ok well im trusting you so hook me then if you can get all 4 for butt cheap....can you ship 2 me r is it best to pick up when i go out there

[D-Man]

ok well im trusting you so hook me then if you can get all 4 for butt cheap....can you ship 2 me r is it best to pick up when i go out there

rotors are heavy, i my boss would let me use his shipping then it'd be okay, otherwise, it'll kill ya in shipping.

[Dragondog]

i c well let me know bout ur boss if so we can talk payment other wise ill wait till i go out there

[Dragondog]

will sway bars work with coilovers? or do i have to have lowering springs?

This post has been edited by Dragondog: Mar 29, 2008 - 1:28 PM

[k-weaver]

actualy, thanks to griff girl, i may be able to get em for cheaper.

I'm not sure what brand they are, but they seem to be the exact same ones that i have on Breakplanet. I'm going to call and see if i can get us under the $200 range because they have a pretty good deal going already...

I was getting from here:
http://www.autoall.com/toyota-celica-rotors.htm

But after looking at theese:
http://stores.brakeplanet.com/Items/nl0172...%20Brake%20Pads

thats a full set for 230+ shipping, i bet i could get em down to 150-170 depending on shipping and all. And how many we ordered...

I noticed that the rotors in the second link are for a 95 GT. I actually have never come across this site before and it looks pretty legit. My problem is I have a 96 GT. When I looked for my year they actually had NO rotors at all, just the pads. Any rotor from a 94-99 GT should work with each other right?

[playr158]

slotted rotors only......

d/s = crapola

[Dragondog]

explain crapola

[playr158]

its a looks thing pretty much that negatively effects braking performance.

a) reduces braking surface area
b) more prone/likely to crack <----this happens a lot
c) doesn't help you brake any better


upgrading brakes should pretty much follow a guide line

a) good (lots of emphasis here) brake pads
b) Quality slotted rotors
c) SS brake lines + quality (Motul DOT 5.1, ATE super blue) brake fluid that is flushed once every year but no later than every 2 years


(on a Super Unlimited Mod car, racing in the NASA circuit, the shop i'm working @ uses blanks....and that car is fast)

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 1, 2008 - 10:33 AM

[D-Man]

To the best of my knowledge yes, they are compatible, however they're are some slight differences with the caliper and break pads. Also, the fronts are the same on ALL models, however the Rear Rotor Part number varies between the 94-95 & the 97-99 models.

But we all know of many differences between the 94-95 & the 97-99 models. lol.

however, i'm trying to get ahold of that owner at break-planet; if i can get a deal, i'm going to try to order specifically for people and get the exact year model that is needed. I will not; however; work any deals for a front or rear only set. that is going to be my only stipulation, if i try weaseling like that, it'll ruin the deal for everyone.

also, this is still not a group buy. i haven't got one approved, nor am i trying to. I'm trying only to get a good price for myself and those affiliated with me & vice-versa.

if anyone wants to be affiliated with me they should be doing it thru my PM, e-mail or preferably; my Cell phone. (i think everyone has my number, lol. I give it to anyone in hopes that someone will be my friend )

[D-Man]

playr, i have to honestly say, that i do like the D/S rotors better. I've never had a problem with cracking. also, the D does serve a purpose, it helps to vent heat, add traction, and to help clear out the dust particles that shed off your break pads.(just like the slots, not really a big difference, but i like em )

although i do agree with stainless steel break lines that's what i'm buying next!

This post has been edited by D-Man: Apr 1, 2008 - 10:53 AM

[playr158]

:lol:

I just say what comes from research, race teams, and what happens on cars with effective parts.
same reason why we giggle at street cars with BBKs

The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was also used, and we dont use that either.

also physics 101....braking power comes from friction of pad to rotor....take away surface area what happens?! LESS braking power

Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. THe heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because its made of cast iron. the rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big ass chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? the metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissapates better.

Find me an F1 car as of now that uses cross drilled or slotted rotors.
They all use full ceramic rotors and ceramic pads. Are they drilled or slotted? No.

If they helped the fastest cars in the world, wouldn't they use them? Its basic calculations that show the lack in surface area does not make up for the possible loss in temperarure. They use brake cooling air ducts insted.

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 1, 2008 - 10:59 AM

[brthrurik]

I'm running the brakeplanet setup, had it for 4 months now and under hard azz driving no problems.

somewhere on here there is a promo code for free shipping from brake planet...

drilling rotors doesn't effect contact area, it actually reduces friction and fade so under constant on/off braking (i.e. windy auto x conditions) you don't loose efficiency,

:edit: promo code for free shipping is BP10100

This post has been edited by brthrurik: Apr 1, 2008 - 10:54 AM

[D-Man]

:edit: promo code for free shipping is BP10100

Thanx brthrurik. Anyone not in the houston area would need to note this info if they plan to purchase any rotors from Breakplanet.

[Supersprynt]

:lol:

I just say what comes from research, race teams, and what happens on cars with effective parts.
same reason why we giggle at street cars with BBKs

The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was also used, and we dont use that either.

also physics 101....braking power comes from friction of pad to rotor....take away surface area what happens?! LESS braking power

Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. THe heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because its made of cast iron. the rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big ass chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? the metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissapates better.

Someone was on honda-tech

I'm with Dan...no it's not an april fools joke. I have C/Ded rotors but only because they came with my car when I bought it.

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Apr 1, 2008 - 10:58 AM

[playr158]

yus i haz been on Ricecar forumz :eeps:

you know you are doing something wrong when even the ricerz are against you :rofl:

[Zelstin]

drilling rotors doesn't effect contact area, it actually reduces friction and fade so under constant on/off braking (i.e. windy auto x conditions) you don't loose efficiency,

Drilling rotors DOES affect contact area. The pad can't contact the material that was drilled out. It does reduce friction which is a bad BTW. Greater Frction=Better Stopping

[brthrurik]

drilling rotors doesn't effect contact area, it actually reduces friction and fade so under constant on/off braking (i.e. windy auto x conditions) you don't loose efficiency,

Drilling rotors DOES affect contact area. The pad can't contact the material that was drilled out. It does reduce friction which is a bad BTW. Greater Frction=Better Stopping

more friction = more fade.... more fade means longer stopping distance... longer stopping distance means more front end damage...

[Supersprynt]

Um, no.

Getting better brake pads and properly braking will easily reduce/eliminate fade.

[markie]

i like how the thread originally started off as a question of where to find d/s rotors into an epic debate of drilled vs. undrilled rotors :wtr:

anyways, (not to add to the clutter on this thread or hijack it in any matter) since we are on the topic of brake pads and rotors, i was wondering...

1) what brand brake pads does 6gc recommend (oem vs aftermarket) and
2) what brand slotted rotors does 6gc recommend (brembo vs others)

thanks

[D-Man]

i like how the thread originally started off as a question of where to find d/s rotors into an epic debate of drilled vs. undrilled rotors :wtr:

anyways, (not to add to the clutter on this thread or hijack it in any matter) since we are on the topic of brake pads and rotors, i was wondering...

1) what brand brake pads does 6gc recommend (oem vs aftermarket) and
2) what brand slotted rotors does 6gc recommend (brembo vs others)

thanks

you'd have to PM Coomer or another moderator... They're the only ones able to tell you what 6gc.net would Recommend, because it'd be their Recommendation.

The rest of us could only give opinions.

[Zelstin]

drilling rotors doesn't effect contact area, it actually reduces friction and fade so under constant on/off braking (i.e. windy auto x conditions) you don't loose efficiency,

Drilling rotors DOES affect contact area. The pad can't contact the material that was drilled out. It does reduce friction which is a bad BTW. Greater Frction=Better Stopping

more friction = more fade.... more fade means longer stopping distance... longer stopping distance means more front end damage...

Sorry to burst your bubble but friction is the concept behind braking . You can completely eliminate friction by taking off your brake bads, then you would have no fade but it might not work out too well for you
Fade is caused by your brake rotors and pads heating up and therefor having less friction which causes longer stopping distances.

This post has been edited by Zelstin: Apr 2, 2008 - 8:55 PM

[markie]

i like how the thread originally started off as a question of where to find d/s rotors into an epic debate of drilled vs. undrilled rotors :wtr:

anyways, (not to add to the clutter on this thread or hijack it in any matter) since we are on the topic of brake pads and rotors, i was wondering...

1) what brand brake pads does 6gc recommend (oem vs aftermarket) and
2) what brand slotted rotors does 6gc recommend (brembo vs others)

thanks

you'd have to PM Coomer or another moderator... They're the only ones able to tell you what 6gc.net would Recommend, because it'd be their Recommendation.

The rest of us could only give opinions.

thanks dman for pointing out my mistake..


1) what brand brake pads would you guys/gals recommend (oem vs aftermarket) and
2) what brand slotted rotors would you guys/gals recommend (brembo vs others)

[D-Man]

no no, you didnt make a misteak. I just pointed that out so that i could answer your question without repramand from a mod

Okay, Bremo is a premium brand, Personally; i will use anything that didn't originate from e-bay.

But now for my trick, Get a lighter and hold it to the rotor. See what happens after a few min. (my pop taught me this trick when i was little to test the grade of steel; we collect weapons) okay, after a few min, if it turned color, smoked or did anything else, its crap (obviously) Then slam it on the concrete, High grade steal will not scratch on concrete.

When i say slam, i mean pop a hole in the street and stomp that mother-fcuker around like your playing air-hockey/soccer. lol.

Thats how you know if you have a good pair or not now most people will tell you not to do that, And i'm about to get flamed for mentioning this. Because theese people say you'll break em, or scrach them, or f- them up. And if you can break em like that, what do you think will happen under stress, heat and weight of stopping when you NEED to come to a complete halt? Do you want to trust your life and the life of those in your car (wife and daughter for me) to something that weak, fragile and frail?

i need to find the boxes to mine... i'll tell you what brand i got. (they passed the test. )

sorry, i mention the test because Even though you know that you knew that, you didnt know that you knew that. A friend of mine bought some from e-bay years ago; and they smoked when he put them on. The front driver side cracked into 2 pieces while he was driving down the road less than 2 weeks into them. Okay, i was sitting in the passager seat, you wanna talk about a fcuked up feeling...

This post has been edited by D-Man: Apr 4, 2008 - 1:53 PM

[playr158]

sorry that last post made me giggle.


Rotors:
- ATE slotted rotors = great product.
- Brembo Blank rotors = great product

Pads:
- HAWK HPS street pads = great pad
- HAWK performance ceramic = good pad
- Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads = good pad
- EBC GREENSTUFF = good pad

go with these products and there is no need to slam your junk on the ground, attempt to light your rotors on fire or see if you can screw up your sidewalk

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 4, 2008 - 2:05 PM

[D-Man]

what'd i tell ya

It's intended for all steel products. not just rotors. But i do it with rotors and wont use a pair till i crack something with em.

Death has see the crack in my parking lot from my rotors

I also do it when i buy other steel items, not just rotors. lol, it's just a rule of thumb i live by. If it can survive being stoped into the street without a scrach, then it can be owned by me

[DEATH]

no comment.
He's right about the lighter thing tho - if you can burn impurities with a relatively low heat source like a lighter then the metal is sh*t - however you're not taking into account the rust preventative they coat the metal with after machining [otherwise all new rotors would be rusty when you get them]. That stuff will produce more smoke than you are likely to get from any impurities you may encounter in your rotors.
However if anyone wants to truely test the theories and various rotors out I have a rockwell hardness tester and various other metal testing equipment here at work.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Apr 4, 2008 - 4:02 PM

[D-Man]

no comment.
He's right about the lighter thing tho - if you can burn impurities with a relatively low heat source like a lighter then the metal is sh*t - however you're not taking into account the rust preventative they coat the metal with after machining [otherwise all new rotors would be rusty when you get them]. That stuff will produce more smoke than you are likely to get from any impurities you may encounter in your rotors.

TRUE! i did not take that into account... good point.

However if anyone wants to truely test the theories and various rotors out I have a rockwell hardness tester and various other metal testing equipment here at work.

na, i got side-walks and parking lots

although i do want to see that shop, you made me drool a little bit talking about all the fabrication possibilities up there...

This post has been edited by D-Man: Apr 4, 2008 - 4:09 PM

[DEATH]

The GF and I are currently making Toyota devil horn add-ons for the stock badges right now Man the first one came out super nice - way better than the ones I keep seeing where the base of the horn is way bigger than the corresponding peice on the logo. Nice and sharp too.
She'll be taking orders soon she says - but no rushing her.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Apr 4, 2008 - 4:16 PM

[D-Man]

but no rushing her.

dude, you gal isnt the kind of person i'd rush. She's always so nice, but i'd hate the be the one to piss her off. lol. I'd bet good money she could hurt a few people.

...really though, I'd bet every penny i got...

[GriffGirl]

...there is no need to slam your junk on the ground, attempt to light your rotors on fire or see if you can screw up your sidewalk

that sounds not only dirty, but really really painful.

[D-Man]

that sounds not only dirty, but really really painful.

it's not going to get dirty or hurt your "junk" at all if it's hard enough



that's why you must test it; before you keep it. Griff, i'm sure you can respect testing the "junk" to see if it's hard enough before you commit yourself to it.

[Hanyo]

that sounds not only dirty, but really really painful.

Oh god why did you say that?

I was not even thinking about that until you made me realize what pain that sentence implies...

[GriffGirl]

that sounds not only dirty, but really really painful.

it's not going to get dirty or hurt your "junk" at all if it's hard enough



that's why you must test it; before you keep it. Griff, i'm sure you can respect testing the "junk" to see if it's hard enough before you commit yourself to it.

uh, not exactly, sorry D-Man... but I haven't tested any junk to see if it's hard enough to commit to in almost 15 years, I just don't roll like you do apparently. But I'm not judging, I mean really, if you wanna slam your junk into the ground to make sure it's some quality ****, by all means be my guest!

that sounds not only dirty, but really really painful.

Oh god why did you say that?

I was not even thinking about that until you made me realize what pain that sentence implies...

because it's funny! LOL!

[markie]

hahaha!! cheers!! thanks guys, this is why i love our community! =)

[playr158]

uh, not exactly, sorry D-Man... but I haven't tested any junk to see if it's hard enough to commit to in almost 15 years, I just don't roll like you do apparently. But I'm not judging, I mean really, if you wanna slam your junk into the ground to make sure it's some quality ****, by all means be my guest!

yea I has feelin D-man just buys questionable stuff...and is cheap.


Buy a reputable brand IE: BREMBO/ ATE/ STOPTECH/ WILWOOD/ WEAREVER(cheap of good side) and you won't have a problem...

[Dragondog]

HOW QUICK DOES BREAK PLANET DELIVER IT TO UR DOOR?

[playr158]

ZOMGZ AS FAST AS A WOODCHUCK COULD CHUCK WOOD!!!!! L33T
(try tracking your shipment, if you didn't get a tracking number, call the company since they shipped it and we did not, they should know)

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 23, 2008 - 9:06 AM

[D-Man]

i forgot all about this thread.

Ya know... Oh never mind It's probably best that i dont comment farther

& its ok if you dont have faith in your product; but i'm the kind of guy that wants to see how sturdy something is before i trust my life to it. I couldn't give a damn about any kind of prestige a product brings, All i care about is how good it works.

Or if your' Richy-Rich, and all you care about is a name brand, thats cool too i suppose.

Then again, rich people leaving an inheritance is one way to keep the economy flowing

[Edophus]

drilled discs are pointless, modern pad compounds dont give of the same level of gases as they breakdown as older pads used to, which is why the holes/grooves are there, so the gas escapes into those rather than getting trapped between the pad surface and disc, pushing the pad away from the disc surface.

drilled just weakens the disc, its purely marketing and your a mug if you fall for it. The likes of porsche have discs that are cast with the holes in it, they dont drill them, and again this is more for looks than anything.

Slotted is maybe usefull but that depends on the pad, most dont have the glazing problem anymore, again marketing owns you..

save some money by buying just plane old blanks, and spend the money you saved there on buying decent pads, get a good compound thats where the stopping power and fade characteristics come from.

[Dragondog]

EDOP YOU SEEM TO TRY TO SAY THE LAST OF EVERYTHING ON ALL MY THREADS and its alwaws you saying something to that goes against us all...i think u need to start posting some proof on ur theroies and insults....u seem to try to prove ur smarter and know more bout our cars then every1 else..by useing insults......post proofs other then trying to convence with ur words....and by the by yes it weakens the disked if they are drilled on....we all know that

[Edophus]

EDOP YOU SEEM TO TRY TO SAY THE LAST OF EVERYTHING ON ALL MY THREADS and its alwaws you saying something to that goes against us all...i think u need to start posting some proof on ur theroies and insults....u seem to try to prove ur smarter and know more bout our cars then every1 else..by useing insults......post proofs other then trying to convence with ur words....and by the by yes it weakens the disked if they are drilled on....we all know that

dragondog chill sorry dont read to much into how i'm saying things i'm not tryinig to be smarter or insult anyone, it's just my opinion feel free to ignore it if you dont like it. Didnt even realise i'd posted in your threads, i've nothing to prove i hardly even post here, just trying to give an opinion that isnt second hand.

If you want to know if what i'm saying is fact or fiction then do some research that doesnt involve asking people on forums!.

but in short, grooved discs are for race pads, and again it depends on compound, many full on race pads dont work at low temps and will glaze over, the grooves will remove this glaze and allow the pad to function until its up to temp.

On a road car your unlikely to be using those kinds of pads, you really need a street pad thats going to work from low temps, and all grooved discs are doing is accelerating the wear of the pad, so what your really doing is costing yourself more money for no gain. If you are using discs that need grooved discs then you will need to be buying seriosly expensive treated discs or they will crack when used with that sort of pad.

I say buy plane discs because unless your racing, plane discs are far cheaper to buy and replace,combine with decent pads suitable for street use will give you by far the best value for money.

This post has been edited by Edophus: Apr 25, 2008 - 6:53 AM

[playr158]

yea dragon bro maybe you should just research cause Edo boy is correcto

[D-Man]

Edouphus you've got some valid points. However i am running performance disks on a DD with performance break pads.

Yes they'll go out faster
Yes it is using up more cash for regular maintenance
Yes it's worth every f-ing dime to me

if you live out in the woods or small towns where you don't come across many obstacles, then these are not for you. In the city i live in, 1/2 second is life/death. With all the construction; idiots; and other odd ball items laying around in the streets, Performance breaking is not a luxury, its a necessity.

I totaled my last car because i couldn't stop fast enough. And anyone who says that standard OEM disks have the same breaking capabilities as the performance rotors i'm using, is a G.D. lier. I'm sitting on performance, i have OEM sitting in my trunk. (witch are for sale by the way )

True it may be too much for some, but for others, it's worth every cent.

This post has been edited by D-Man: Apr 25, 2008 - 8:21 AM

[crandsberry]

Sorry if im beating a dead horse , but i am in the market for new front rotors too, so ive to throw in my 2 cents

It seems the big gripe about drilled and slotted rotors is that they decrease the frictional surface area for the pads to make contact with.

Isn’t that the same concept as those four and six puck clutch disks? By limiting the surface area you greatly increase the clamping force at four or six points, while sacrificing lifespan of the friction material and smooth engagement.

So
Drilled and/or Slotted = lots of bite but short lived pads


Also, holes and slots increase surface area of the rotor as a whole, therefore it must cool faster than a standard rotor.


whooo knooowws

[DEATH]

I'm not going to get involved in this arguement as i can see it from both sides of the fence. I do, however have a few practical points that should be considered:

1. My car is swapped with all the extra HP/Tq that brings and my OEM pads and rotors are perfectly sufficient [altho I do wish I had the 4 channel ABS my old 6GC had - that was superior braking power with confidence]
2. There is something to be said for aesthetics as well. Drilled and/or slotted rotors just plain look good behind some nice rims. It's kind of like painting your calipers. It makes it look like you have Brembo style brake upgrades regardless of whether or not they actually upgrade the stopping power. Some call that rice, some call it show - meh w/e. They do look good.
3. Aesthetics should never be favored over safety. If you're gonna go with my point #2 just make sure you get some from a reputable brand like Brembo etc. Don't get some off brand Ebay crap and trust your life/car to it.

That's just my .02.
Someone should run a search and talley up the shear amount of threads that have been generated on this subject over the life of 6gc.net - I think this one almost outnumbers the fabled 2jz swap foolishness that has haunted this site for far too long.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Apr 25, 2008 - 9:36 AM

[playr158]

Sorry if im beating a dead horse , but i am in the market for new front rotors too, so ive to throw in my 2 cents

It seems the big gripe about drilled and slotted rotors is that they decrease the frictional surface area for the pads to make contact with.

Isn’t that the same concept as those four and six puck clutch disks? By limiting the surface area you greatly increase the clamping force at four or six points, while sacrificing lifespan of the friction material and smooth engagement.

So
Drilled and/or Slotted = lots of bite but short lived pads


Also, holes and slots increase surface area of the rotor as a whole, therefore it must cool faster than a standard rotor.


whooo knooowws

at last 2 postings

B-R-A-K-E-S are different than clutches. reducing the surface area of the disk is not going to give you more bite at fewer places. it gives you less braking power in less places.
That and I'm really going to assume you don't know clutch theory and it doesn't apply to braking.

colder rotors = bad. BRAKING power works off of heat + friction. Drilling is PURELY ASCETIC there is no functional benefit from them, Porsche and Benz already said they do it for "style".

as well as where you live has ZERO to do with the type of BRAKE pads you need. CITY driving has to deal with INITIAL BITE of your brake pad. This is an issue that comes down to COMPOUND construction. You don't need "performance" BRAKEs to drive there, you need to not follow so close to people/drive slower in traffic.

but this is now a dead horse. Do your research on B-R-A-K-E-S and you will learn about how they work and what is effective. (Thus I mean research from scholarly documentation, not ricerRus.com )

here is a shot of our race car (front 3 series 4 door) @ the track
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6965/85sigiq4.jpg
look closely, solid rotors much faster than any swap here and endures much more braking demands.

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 25, 2008 - 9:45 AM

[DEATH]

at last 2 postings

Mine too? I still think my points are valid [and if you look I pretty much agree with you]

[playr158]

sorry not yours, you just posted in middle of me typing

i just found this, i took these off my celica a couple years ago

too bad its not higher def. with a better camera, you'd be able to see all the hair line cracking

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 25, 2008 - 11:04 AM

[D-Man]

[/thread]

We're never going to agree on this.

It's worth every dime to me.

to others it's not. I dont street race, but you'd be surprised when crap comes flying out of the back of some half ass closed branco with a dip sh!t Mexican driving with no idea that this latter just flew out at me, thinkin it's all good because he tired his damn wife-beater shirt on it. Remember that my wife is Hispanic, and so that makes my child Hispanic as well. but this mexican dude was a freakin retarted...

Back on topic...

If you want to go about saying it provides less breaking power and blah blah, then go for it. these are obviously not for you.

Dragondog; If you'd like to try it for yourself then you'll understand what i've been talking about. Or take the advice from the guys who dont have them. Its all your choice. Good luck making your decision Dragondog. (Is he even still lessening to this?)

This post has been edited by D-Man: Apr 25, 2008 - 10:49 AM

[Dragondog]

OK WILL AFTER READING all this i see a point to all this arguing sry EDO for all that but i am for 1 a racer i dont know much bout the mechanix behind it but i just love getting hocked up with parts putting them on and enjoying the win....brand is a big thing with me tho i dont want cheap parts but i would like to spend cheap....hence THE HOOKUP.....but i do understand all the points thax for the details and info but my mind is set for d/s disk....foe the fact im am a racer

[GriffGirl]

It's not a matter of agreeing or disagreeing. It's a matter that technologically and scientifically speaking, for a regular street-legal car, D/S etc. rotors bare no advantage over blanks. What Edo said is exactly on the money - nowadays you don't have the problem of gasses building up and decreasing braking power. The technology has advanced beyond that; it's resolved. It's purely an aesthetic choice at this point if you get D/S rotors. I like how they look too.

Personally I've been going back and forth trying to decide what I'll go with for my own car. I've decided I'm going to go with the blanks; I'm opting for proven reliability over looking cool but not being sure if I got the right brand and if they're going to crack at the wrong time.

As for being a racer... well that just doesn't apply here. Unless your car is specifically a track car, it simply does not apply. And if it is a track car, that's just a whole unrelated topic.

[crandsberry]

at last 2 postings

B-R-A-K-E-S are different than clutches. reducing the surface area of the disk is not going to give you more bite at fewer places. it gives you less braking power in less places.
That and I'm really going to assume you don't know clutch theory and it doesn't apply to braking.

colder rotors = bad. BRAKING power works off of heat + friction. Drilling is PURELY ASCETIC there is no functional benefit from them, Porsche and Benz already said they do it for "style".

as well as where you live has ZERO to do with the type of BRAKE pads you need. CITY driving has to deal with INITIAL BITE of your brake pad. This is an issue that comes down to COMPOUND construction. You don't
need "performance" BRAKEs to drive there, you need to not follow so close to people/drive slower in traffic.

but this is now a dead horse. Do your research on B-R-A-K-E-S and you will learn about how they work and what is effective. (Thus I mean research from scholarly documentation, not ricerRus.com )

here is a shot of our race car (front 3 series 4 door) @ the track
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6965/85sigiq4.jpg
look closely, solid rotors much faster than any swap here and endures much more braking demands.

ok ok the clutch comparison was sketchy i agree, i was just thinkin "ehh friction material.. spinning metal disk.. kinda close!" They have similar jobs, just brakes take far more abuse.

playr ur right i didnt research brakes at all, i was just throwin **** out there, but now ive researched, touche.

This is a great article
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm

and heres some math
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Dri...isk_Brakes.html

"braking power works off heat"????
Im going to save you some face and let you google the word "brake fade" before posting again


so if you read the articles turns out everyone is right

1) cross drill and slotted cool faster, great for racing (porsche and benz do it for style cause you dont race them but they are SPORTS CARS)

2) grip is dependent almost entirly on pads and rotor diameter

3) rotors crack because of ****ty metallurgy (bad casting), so buy expensive ones


This post has been edited by crandsberry: Apr 25, 2008 - 11:29 PM

[Edophus]

hey i think there is truth in the things most say,

but the point i'm trying to make is, you will pay twice as much for quality set of grooved/drilled discs as you would for quality plane, and the money you save, which will be significant if your buying good discs (most manufacturers will charge almost twice for adding grooves) then that money you save can go on better pad compound, the end result is far better brakes than if you spend the same money on groover/driller discs/lesser pads.

every trackday and race i go to, no one uses drilled, and some use grooved if there using expensive race compound pads. and i mean epensive, like $400 for a set of front pads, and $600 for the discs, the rest use plane discs and spend the extra on the pads.

The other thing is, proper grooved discs dont have anywhere near the same number of grooves as the heavily marketed "street" type grooved discs, simply because its tottally not needed. 4 or 5 grooves is plenty, any more is just eating your pad, the brake company are delighted cause your'll be back sooner....

dragondog, at least your honest, if you want the look then thats enough reason, i have no problem with that, just please spend the money on a well proven disc/pad combo, keep an eye on cheap discs for cracks.

[jason]

you need some heat to get them to optimal performance, brake fade is usually cause by brake fluid getting hot and losing its properties

blanks ok, slotted & vented are the best performance, as long as you upgrade the size.

same everything except rotors

12" vs 12" rotors one being solid, the other slotted, the solid is going to perform better.

12" blank vs 12.5" slotted, the slotted should be equal if not better PLUS much more pleasing to look at.

before anyone posts anything to shot this, or plyr's posts down, get some technical data to support it. not this car with slotted and drilled performs better than another car without.

here's an f1 car's brakes, notice, blank vented, these glow red hot turn after turn after turn and still provide best stopping without warping as easy ( i presume they are also some crazy material, but the engineering is the same )

[crandsberry]

great reading material

Tech article from Pop. hot rod mag

the brake bible i don't know how legit this author is, but its interesting

sry for my previous harsh response

The brake's only purpose is to convert kinetic energy into thermal energy and dissipating it. When your brakes are warm before stopping, its just that much less energy they're capable of removing. The disk can only handle so much heat at a time, and then you feel brake fade.

Back in the day, bake pads had resin in them that would vaporize when they were extremely hot, it could be trapped between the pad and the disk and limit friction. Cross drilling gave the gas a place to go, also lightened and weakened the disk

Now days, pads aren't made like that, no gases, but they do transfer heat to the caliper now, and like Jason said, this causes boiling brake fluid, which decreases hydraulic pressure. brake fade.

Either way, heat is the enemy

And your right jason, F1 brake disks and pads are made of carbon, which... ironically.. grips harder the hotter it gets

[playr158]

OK WILL AFTER READING all this i see a point to all this arguing sry EDO for all that but i am for 1 a racer i dont know much bout the mechanix behind it but i just love getting hocked up with parts putting them on and enjoying the win....brand is a big thing with me tho i dont want cheap parts but i would like to spend cheap....hence THE HOOKUP.....but i do understand all the points thax for the details and info but my mind is set for d/s disk....foe the fact im am a racer

If you WERE a RACER, you'd know FUNCTION > form.
But you know this comes from someone who spends time at the race shop fabricating parts for a bmw race car (we swept all our classes with 1st place last race , on SOLID rotors too! )

ok ok the clutch comparison was sketchy i agree, i was just thinkin "ehh friction material.. spinning metal disk.. kinda close!" They have similar jobs, just brakes take far more abuse.

playr ur right i didnt research brakes at all, i was just throwin **** out there, but now ive researched, touche.

This is a great article
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm

and heres some math
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Dri...isk_Brakes.html

"braking power works off heat"????
Im going to save you some face and let you google the word "brake fade" before posting again

so if you read the articles turns out everyone is right

1) cross drill and slotted cool faster, great for racing (porsche and benz do it for style cause you dont race them but they are SPORTS CARS)

2) grip is dependent almost entirly on pads and rotor diameter

3) rotors crack because of ****ty metallurgy (bad casting), so buy expensive ones

a) glad you did some research, keep researching and learning

b)

"braking power works off heat"????
Im going to save you some face and let you google the word "brake fade" before posting again

I'm going to save you some face and let you use a dictionary or something and learn "operating temperature". Yes brake fade comes from TOO much heat and an incorrect/not up the the task brake system setup. But there are various points to a pad's functionality. When you are looking at pad compounds there is a factor of "cold bite" this means a cold brake pad. Brake pads just like your motor need to warm up in order to give full functioning and achieve their maximum potential. This is why you don't use track pads on the street. They need HEAT to get to their operating temperatures. So thank you yes braking power works off heat. Think of braking power as a function of a parabola. Initially braking not so good, temp comes up braking power is getting better, but too much heat and you get diminishing returns (brake fade)

c) on "#1" you failed again. Race cars DO NOT USE D/S rotors. Mercedes Benz is not a sports car either

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 27, 2008 - 5:54 AM

[ETNRIDER]

I have had my brakes and drilled & slotted rotors from Brake Planet for about 2 weeks now and I love them could see a good amount of difference in my braking but my old ones were bad. I'll let you all know if I have a problem.

They look sweet too!!!!

[markie]

i love reading this thread.. lol. some great minds in this community =)

anyways, are there any places that anyone would recommend as far as purchasing rotors and brakes?

thanks =)

[Dragondog]

ok well after putting on my d/s disks i thought id compare and well they seem to work just as good except for when it rains, with my solids my pads would not grip as good when wet and in high water but the d/s rotors worked as if there was no water.....the d/s disks stop better when wet but other then that i fells the same.....oh yea and there is i diff sound when breaking and i like the looks.......looks good with my blue calipers