FIXED: Hood gap issue b/c of strut bar, cusco brace | updated w/final pics & info Options

[snapshotgt]

Having this issue becuase of my cusco 2pt strut bar. First off, sorry for the poor pictures - low light and not much time:

Drivers side:




This brace:


Right hand, better condition:


On a side note:





Suggestions welcome for the hood gap.
I know some have been able to fix this issue.
Btw, the issue is becuase this bar is for a st205 (different hood).

Thanks-

[snapshotgt]

I'm thinking washers on hinge bolts (rear) to raise the back up a bit...

[CelicaST_CALI]

mabye its cause u have a beast living in ur engine bay...

This post has been edited by CelicaST_CALI: May 21, 2008 - 12:25 AM

[azian_advanced]

i don't think the engine has anything to do with it. i guess you'll just have to follow your own advice and go jdm-pro-drifter-style!
or do what i did and upgrade your hood

btw, similar thread here.

[808celica]

bang under the hood to make enough room to clear

[presure2]

i would trim the bracing for the hood where it hits the bar.
its not a RWD drift machine.
dont raise the back of the hood.

[D-Man]

X2 W/ pressure2.

I'd trim out the inside of the hood a bit; it'll hold. (remove some of that insulation first!) also, when it comes down to a few MM, then grab some washers and secure them between the frame & the fender @ the bolts. (there's 3 under the hood there) and just a FEW MM isnt a noticible difference to flex the fender. Not a few inches, a few MM!! lol.

But please dont raise the hood in the rear. That'd look retarded as well as throw off the lining of the hood + fenders even more...

[snapshotgt]

mabye its cause u have a beast living in ur engine bay...

It not even close to touching the engine.

i would trim the bracing for the hood where it hits the bar.
its not a RWD drift machine.
dont raise the back of the hood.

But that would weaken the hood... and i'm not sure that's a good idea.
If i were to be raise in the back, it would just be a little bit. I'm not talking RWD drift machine amount.

X2 W/ pressure2.

I'd trim out the inside of the hood a bit; it'll hold. (remove some of that insulation first!) also, when it comes down to a few MM, then grab some washers and secure them between the frame & the fender @ the bolts. (there's 3 under the hood there) and just a FEW MM isnt a noticible difference to flex the fender. Not a few inches, a few MM!! lol.

But please dont raise the hood in the rear. That'd look retarded as well as throw off the lining of the hood + fenders even more...

I don't have the insulation, so thats not an issue. I've thought of putting washer where the 3 bolts are, but not sure how "good" it would look. I know you say mm of amount, but it would probably need more to make it worth it.

[purplegt4]

the stock strut won't fit anymore?

[snapshotgt]

the stock strut won't fit anymore?

No, it does. Will be installing that to make a 3pt one. But, with the small added weight of V6, this cusco bar actually really helps with the front suspension. That's why it will be hard to part with if i end up selling it because of this issue.

[D-Man]

SNAPSHOT, it's just an issue of the hood hitting the bar, Take a dremmel and cut off a bit of that hood frame. It'll hold. It's got plenty more steal holding it together. If anything then weld another metal bar in between the V patter that it'll make. (if your really worried about it) but it should be strong enough to hold if your just taking out a few inches.

Or do you have CF / Fiberglass hood?

[snapshotgt]

Or do you have CF / Fiberglass hood?

OEM hood.

[D-Man]

yeah then you have adequate bracing to handle a little notch taken out to accommodate that bar. I'm gunna go dig you up some pics.... BRB w/ an edit...

[fanboy95]

i have the same bar on my car and it does the same thing, my hood doesn't come up as far though.

[DEATH]

Trust me - there is some safety/fudge factor built in to the OEM hood's weight holding capacity. Just notching it slightly or hammering out the bracing slightly to accomodate that bar will not significantly weaken the frame work. Or like D-man said, if you're that concerned just weld in a patch to restrengthen what little you cut out of the framework. I'd add a few washers under the fenders to minimize the amount you have to cut out of the framework and call it a day.
I don't know about you but if someone plants their big a$$ on my hood I'm gonna have more to worry about than a bent hood anyway [Like a murder case]. How often do you use your hood to support anything but it's own weight anyway [which it waaaaay over engineered to do]?

This post has been edited by DEATH: May 21, 2008 - 11:44 AM

[D-Man]

[Like a murder case]

It's funny because it's true...

But DEATH has a good question... What else does your hood do other than sit there? That's all that mine does...

[D-Man]

okay... i cant find any pics to show you... You'd be supprised how many people DONT take pics of the inside of their stock hoods

(i'm gunna take one and put it on my profile, just to be different... )

[snapshotgt]

One thing that weird is how different the gap is side to side. I'd expect the gap on both side - but it is mostly on pass side. So, I adjusted the rubber stops on the drivers side (making them taller) to offset this. This helped. Its more even - small gaps on both sides instead of large on on pass side.

I will probably try a little hammering before i pull out the dremmel tool. Its "ONLY" hitting the hood in one spot right in the center.

Do i need to worry about the latch failing with this added stress? The last thing i need is the hood flying up. I've been looking at hood issues and they seem to be with the st205 hood/latch combo - it sucks to read the horror stories of them flying up.

[D-Man]

Well, your gunna have to close the hood and guestimate that one yourself... decide how many lbs of pressure it takes to secure it down; and then assume that's how much is pushing it up... if it's more than 10-15; then you might wanna look into doing something about that!! (it's about 5 to close it regular) because that'd mean that you've got 5-10 pounds pushing and that's enough to open the hood especially when multiplied by the force of the wind...

not the kind of gremlin that you want "popping up" (pardon my pun)

[snapshotgt]

New pics (just for kicks):

Where its hitting (small dot in center):


Gaps a little smaller:

[D-Man]

oh sh!t, that's nothing. Yeah just take out enough for the bar to sit there comfortably. you wont even be taking out much of the brace. what, 1/2 inch deep?

really you wouldn't even have to worry about reinforcing it. but still you could if you wanted. dremmel it out, hell you could probably even get it done with a hammer and a pick...

[stevest202]

just elongate the strut bar holes to allow it to sit lower the three that bolt to strut top
same brace it will still just touch but not enough to force bonnet up


bonnet down

[urbandork]

i have that strut and a gt4 hood and while i dont have hood clearance issues i still have issues with that res. tank

[DEATH]

Where its hitting (small dot in center):

Peice of cake [not scratching the hood will be the hardest part]. You know what to do - a little creative hammer work and you're all good. If you hammer it out [or even if you cut it] you shouldn't have anymore worries about the hood flying up as it will be right back to it's design load.

[snapshotgt]

Where its hitting (small dot in center): Picture above

Peice of cake [not scratching the hood will be the hardest part]. You know what to do - a little creative hammer work and you're all good. If you hammer it out [or even if you cut it] you shouldn't have anymore worries about the hood flying up as it will be right back to it's design load.

The only concern i have with this is that right where its rubbing it looks like the hood bracing attaches to the actual hood. Meaning, if i start hammering there (the dot), i might create a bubble on the top of the hood. That would suck. Now i'm seriously considering cutting a small track there.

On a side note: I noticed after taking off my stock bar off that it was cracked! V6 torque maybe?

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

was that strut brace made for the gtfour specifically, as they have the raised "power bulge:P" in the centre of the bonnet, giving the needed clearance.

[snapshotgt]

was that strut brace made for the gtfour specifically, as they have the raised "power bulge:P" in the centre of the bonnet, giving the needed clearance.

Yes, was made for a st205 hood - that is why i'm having this issue. Before i bought it, i was told no issue by members here with it. Thought it would work perfectly...

[D-Man]

and it did, till it no-longer was harboring a st205 engine

[95CelicaST]

and it did, till it no-longer was harboring a st205 engine

No. Engines don't cause strut bars to hit the hood. a HOOD causes strut bars to hit the hood.


I think you'll be okay taking a dremel to that beam and taking out a notch in it, but looking at your picture it appears as though it is lightly hitting on the other two support beams.

[HaRv3sTeR]

i just bought this:

EBAY

you guys know if this bar has the same issue with hood/reservoir with the stock hood/5sfe?

[monkey]

dude, use a hammer and chissel or a dremil and take that lil area out... dont worry about support cuz if its that close than if and i mean if someone sitzs on ur hood its such a tight fit that ur strut bar is right there under it making a stronger support.... lol thats an easy fix....

[GotToyota]

Where are you at in Texas?

-Matt

[snapshotgt]

Update: I have not messed with it much since i've been busy, but...

Hammaring IS NOT an option for me. That metal is too strong, and the hammaring strength needed could bend/bubble the hood.
I'm not worried about people sitting on the hood. I'm worried about vibrations once the 3 braces are cut. This is not where the strength is needed. Yes, i said three - ones on the outside on center need cutting as well.

We'll see. Might do it tomorrow. I'll have to think about the risk of weakening the hood and creating vibrations.

[Jeunesse]

keep us updated on this man... I too have the same problem although I don't have as much gap on the passenger side than you do.

[94yoter]

I had that problem with mine and I just turned it around the other way and it works. But I think my strut brace is a little different than yours.

[snapshotgt]

Issue fixed. Didn't cut whole brace(s) - rather, notched them in the center where they're the highest. No hood gap problem anymore, hood is still strong w/no vibrations etc. 100% happy with it.

Pictures:

[presure2]

colin, make sure you coat those spots you cut out, or you will have rust issues down the road.
ebay POR15, buy a small can, you'll find LOTS of uses for it.

[snapshotgt]

colin, make sure you coat those spots you cut out, or you will have rust issues down the road.
ebay POR15, buy a small can, you'll find LOTS of uses for it.

Oh yeah, one of the first things on my list!
Thanks for the heads up though. I'll see about that ebay thing.

[DEATH]

Hey Snapshot - if you kept the peices you cut out I can weld them back in upside down for you and it'll look nicer and be more like stock strength. Totally unnecessary but you've got such a clean car where the main attraction is under the hood. Might as well have more people pay attn to your engine than some random holes under the hood.
Free of course.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jun 16, 2008 - 7:45 AM

[snapshotgt]

Hey Snapshot - if you kept the peices you cut out I can weld them back in upside down for you and it'll look nicer and be more like stock strength. Totally unnecessary but you've got such a clean car where the main attraction is under the hood. Might as well have more people pay attn to your engine than some random holes under the hood.
Free of course.

That would be awesome but i did not keep them.
I'm thinking of fitting rubber pipping around the edge(s) by taking a VERY small diameter hose and cutting a slit in it, then working it on - don't know if that makes sense or not...

[DEATH]

Hey Snapshot - if you kept the peices you cut out I can weld them back in upside down for you and it'll look nicer and be more like stock strength. Totally unnecessary but you've got such a clean car where the main attraction is under the hood. Might as well have more people pay attn to your engine than some random holes under the hood.
Free of course.

That would be awesome but i did not keep them.
I'm thinking of fitting rubber pipping around the edge(s) by taking a VERY small diameter hose and cutting a slit in it, then working it on - don't know if that makes sense or not...

Yeah - I know exactly what you mean - that should look real good. I'd use 1/4" silicone or rubber hose. You can get colored ones too at any autozone etc. but doesn't look like you're planning to color theme under the hood so regular black rubber hose would work/look great. You can buy it by the foot at Autozone too.
Or you can get that aluminum trim that they sell at Dom Depot or w/e that looks like an elongated "C" in cross section, a little black silicone adhesive will make it fairly permamnent [Yet removable if you need to].

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jun 16, 2008 - 9:16 AM

[snapshotgt]

Hey Snapshot - if you kept the peices you cut out I can weld them back in upside down for you and it'll look nicer and be more like stock strength. Totally unnecessary but you've got such a clean car where the main attraction is under the hood. Might as well have more people pay attn to your engine than some random holes under the hood.
Free of course.

That would be awesome but i did not keep them.
I'm thinking of fitting rubber pipping around the edge(s) by taking a VERY small diameter hose and cutting a slit in it, then working it on - don't know if that makes sense or not...

Yeah - I know exactly what you mean - that should look real good. I'd use 1/4" silicone or rubber hose. You can get colored ones too at any autozone etc. but doesn't look like you're planning to color theme under the hood so regular black rubber hose would work/look great. You can buy it by the foot at Autozone too.
Or you can get that aluminum trim that they sell at Dom Depot or w/e that looks like an elongated "C" in cross section, a little black silicone adhesive will make it fairly permamnent [Yet removable if you need to].

Yeah, black is the color. Nothing better than an a clean looking OEMish engine bay.

[monkey]

Congradulations, nice to know you got your hood solved! Now you have a beast that looks perfect!

[DEATH]

Time for Turbo[s]

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jun 16, 2008 - 11:42 AM