How to - Make your own chargecooler, Going one better than TTE Options

[Insanity-74]

Having done over 9 months of research into charge cooler designs I have decided to make my own. Not as difficult as you may think as the charge cooler design is pretty simple....basically a box with a radiator in it. There has been loads of debate throughout several forums as to which is the best method for things like waterflow direction ... placement of filler caps etc etc the list goes on and on...all I can say is that Toyota didn’t get it wrong...they just didn’t get it right enough....I know why they came up with the design that they did...it wasn’t choice..it was lack of choice...cost savings and motorsport restrictions at the time. I could go into deep descriptions as to why the water flows the way it does ...I have yet to prove that its the wrong way or the right way...but with some help from the technical bods from the GT4 owners club I should soon have an answer...although changing flow direction is a simple job...just a matter of swapping two hoses around...no biggy.
Day one
Obviously the first step is to come up with a design which I have done over the past nine months...hopefully it will be worth it. I won’t bore you with technical specifications, you`ll see what it looks like from the photographs.

Next up was to source some material, and after ten minutes with Google I discovered a place called UK aluminium who have managed to supply me all but one of the pieces of alloy that I wanted...funnily enough I got the hardest to find piece from Motorworld (a local cheap car parts shop) in the chav section.

For my design I required –

appologese to you guys over the pond as you work in inches dont you 3mm is roughly 1/8 inch (1 inch = 25.5mm)

2x 500mm/500mm/3mm sheets.
1x 250mm/500mm/3mm sheet
1x 25mmOD/1000mm tube 1.59mm wall thickness (16 gauge IIRC)
1x 70mmOD/500mm tube 1.59mm wall thickness
2x 390mm/100mm/100mm charge cooler specific radiator core (with extra dense fin arrangement and extra galleries)



So let the work begin...I have managed to control myself and not rush into it headstrong and fluff it up...patience is the key...lots of it.

I started off by designing a simple header tank which could also double as a swirl pot with minor modifications.....be award though that if you want to attempt this yourself...you are limited to a 100mm tall charge cooler, as if you go taller than this (there is room) you will not be able to fit a header tank at there are only one or two place it can fit, and both positions have limited head room due to the bonnet framework....I have decided to put mine where the current charge cooler overflow fits and reposition that elsewhere.

Right.....back to the header tank production...it’s only small and loosely based on the TTE version. I started off with some 70mm alloy tube...cut it to length...you can make it pretty much any length as there is plenty of space downwards.



Here is the 70mm tube cut to length with the first of the inlet outlet holes marked up....that one happens to be the inlet.

My next train of thought was to start one of the more difficult tasks first...and that was to cut the inlet pipe in such a way that it matched the curve of the header tank....an easy task with a CNC machine or power tools, but I am making this entirely by hand using some of my granddads tools....a bit of a promise that I made to myself. The task is slightly more time consuming but the results thus far have been good. I marked up the 25mm pipe and started to hacksaw away......I got the shape 80% there...I then rapped a spare piece of 70mm pipe in wet n dry and used it as shaping tool. After over an hour of sanding it is a near perfect fit and actually forms a perfect seal between the two pipes.



This pipe will eventually be cut shorter, but I left on a little extra to hold onto during welding



I then cut the inlet pipe to length and marked the corresponding hole onto the 70mm pipe ready for working away with a hand drill and a needle file. Which I will be doing as soon as I have posted this up.



I will then cut a second Outlet pipe (sigh another hour of sanding) and cut a second hole in the 70mm pipe.

This will be an ongoing blog type thing which will continue until the charge cooler is up and running...hopefully within two to three weeks.

Day Two...nothing much to report

No pictures I`m afraid......drilled and shaped the holes into the headertank/swirl pot hybrid and cut and shaped the second inlet pipe...well..... outlet pipe in this case. Thats about it...the hours of sanding and shaping have been a little painstaking but are complete.

Day five - ish

Spent an amusing two hours filing away at some alloy sheet whilst watching the Monaco grand prix...both inlet and outlet for the header tank swirl pot hybrid have been completed....the end caps have been cut out...what an irritating process that was...cutting circles from alloy by hand is not easy, so alot of filing has been needed....a smaller hole was cut into the lid to enable fitting of the rad cap neck...I`m afraid I had to go with an electric drill with this as trying to use a 30mm hole cutter to cut a hole in 6mm sheet alloy was....well lets say I almost broke my wrists trying to do it.
Needless to say working with alloy has been pretty easy so far...I `m looking forward to the arrival of the cores so I can match them perfectly to the casing and start the serious side of the manufacture.
Just one question for anyone that knows about aluminium fabrication....is it required to put little castleations (sp) along the edges of the joining surfaces to allow the weld to penetrate into the joints????

Anyway...here is the header tanks as it stands....excuse the tape holding it together.....it needs finishing and polishing but i`m not going to do that until its all welded up.

[Muggs]

Nice work so far! very interested, please update...

[Insanity-74]

cheers...I will keep updating it...but I have to wait now for my custom radiator cores to arrive...hopefully it will be tuesday.

[presure2]

great work so far!

[DEATH]

Just one question for anyone that knows about aluminium fabrication....is it required to put little castleations (sp) along the edges of the joining surfaces to allow the weld to penetrate into the joints????

Amazing work - sometimes the best results def come from working the material by hand or with simple power tools.
As for the above question - no you don't have to make small cuts on the mating surfaces [I think that's what you mean?] to get them to seal better. I've done this before with MIG welding on carbon steel but in this case I assume you will be having the peice TIG welded and all should seal nicely if the surfaces are well mated [IE no gaps etc to be filled].
I know what you're thinking in this but IMO it would probably just make it more difficult. If it were me I'd get with whoever was actually going to be doing the welding and see what they think will provide them the best chance at creating a pressure holding seal. If it were me doing the welding I'd want the mating surfaces to match as best as possible with no gaps to be filled etc.
Hope this helps - sorry I have a hard time explaining this kind of thing.

[Insanity-74]

Just one question for anyone that knows about aluminium fabrication....is it required to put little castleations (sp) along the edges of the joining surfaces to allow the weld to penetrate into the joints????

Amazing work - sometimes the best results def come from working the material by hand or with simple power tools.
As for the above question - no you don't have to make small cuts on the mating surfaces [I think that's what you mean?] to get them to seal better. I've done this before with MIG welding on carbon steel but in this case I assume you will be having the peice TIG welded and all should seal nicely if the surfaces are well mated [IE no gaps etc to be filled].
I know what you're thinking in this but IMO it would probably just make it more difficult. If it were me I'd get with whoever was actually going to be doing the welding and see what they think will provide them the best chance at creating a pressure holding seal. If it were me doing the welding I'd want the mating surfaces to match as best as possible with no gaps to be filled etc.
Hope this helps - sorry I have a hard time explaining this kind of thing.

Fully understood...thanks I was hoping to get further today but the raditor cores have not arrived, which is a bit of a blow as I was hoping to make some progress tonight and get on with the construction of the box...but you know what they say about the best made plans etc etc I cant even make a start until I have the exact size of the cores and I`m pretty sure they wont be the exact size I requested but you live in hope.

A quick question to the mods...how do I get my user name changed??? or is it just a matter of forgetting this user name and signing up with a new one??? My insanity has been cured so I`d like to go with my real name...cheers

Nial

This post has been edited by Insanity-74: May 27, 2008 - 11:25 AM

[Insanity-74]

Well the Core has finally arrived...size is exactly correct...its a shame there are 3 main galleries instead of 4 or 2, but apparently its OK to intersect a core half way across as each gallery is sub divided into 17 mini galleries



Its a big core...I`d say a good 50% more surface area than standard..its quite heavy but goes from warm to cold very quickly and holds its temp quite well. Just some cutting shaping and welding to do know. More soon

This post has been edited by Insanity-74: Jun 4, 2008 - 10:49 AM

[phattyduck]

Well the Core has finally arrived...size is exactly correct...its a shame there are 3 main galleries instead of 4 or 2, but apparently its OK to intersect a core half way across as each gallery is sub divided into 17 mini galleries

Its a big core...I`d say a good 50% more surface area than standard..its quite heavy but goes from warm to cold very quickly and holds its temp quite well. Just some cutting shaping and welding to do know. More soon

If you are using a cross-flow front heat exchanger, the 3-core intercooler could help you with water hose routing - wait, are you keeping it a top mount?

-Charlie

[DEATH]

I'm loving this project.
Insanity-74 - wanna make me one next J/k - I couldn't imagine that much sanding and filing for someone else's ride

[Insanity-74]

Well the Core has finally arrived...size is exactly correct...its a shame there are 3 main galleries instead of 4 or 2, but apparently its OK to intersect a core half way across as each gallery is sub divided into 17 mini galleries

Its a big core...I`d say a good 50% more surface area than standard..its quite heavy but goes from warm to cold very quickly and holds its temp quite well. Just some cutting shaping and welding to do know. More soon

If you are using a cross-flow front heat exchanger, the 3-core intercooler could help you with water hose routing - wait, are you keeping it a top mount?

-Charlie

Yes i am keeping it top mount...trying to keep it standard looking as possible...I dont have much space anywhwere else. The underside will be heat shielded with a 200deg permanent exposure heat resistant material.

[Defgeph]

Nice work, keep us updated !

[WannabeGT4]

Well the Core has finally arrived...size is exactly correct...its a shame there are 3 main galleries instead of 4 or 2, but apparently its OK to intersect a core half way across as each gallery is sub divided into 17 mini galleries

Instead of intersecting the cores half way across why don't you just divide it the other way and have it make one pass through the nine holes on the left of your picture do a loop on the other side of the core and exit the 9 holes on the right. You'd need to divide one end tank in half but I don't think it'd hurt anything... might even distribute the water more evenly throughout the core.

[Insanity-74]

Well the Core has finally arrived...size is exactly correct...its a shame there are 3 main galleries instead of 4 or 2, but apparently its OK to intersect a core half way across as each gallery is sub divided into 17 mini galleries

Instead of intersecting the cores half way across why don't you just divide it the other way and have it make one pass through the nine holes on the left of your picture do a loop on the other side of the core and exit the 9 holes on the right. You'd need to divide one end tank in half but I don't think it'd hurt anything... might even distribute the water more evenly throughout the core.

I did consider that, but then you would have half the charge air at a different temp to the other half...I did think of dividing just the centre bit like you sugested..ie the front set of holes and half the middle set in one direction....the other half of the middle section and the back section for flow the other way....if that makes sence. But I have been assured by the makers of the core that it is fine to divide the cores down the middle...time will tell I guess. I`ll try both ways and see which works best.

[Insanity-74]

Well a bit more done today....by god its hard work...I thought Aliminuim alloy was going to be easy to work in.....nope...to get it to bend at all you have to heat it to near the surfeace of the sun temp that burns you at every available oportunity and slices your skin without a second though...by the time I had lost my second pintof blood I had just about finished the inlet side of the cooler.





Needs finishing a little and welding of course but its near enough ready for welding...had enough now as the loss of blood is making me feel dizzy

[DEATH]

Looks great. Eat some cookies and drink a bunch of OJ and get back to work

[Insanity-74]

Looks great. Eat some cookies and drink a bunch of OJ and get back to work

Hahahaha....SIR YES SIR

[DEATH]

Sorry didn't mean to use the Drill Sergent voice
Any progress? I'm so all about this thread - I'm really thinking [but have not researched much so talking out my ass really] that something like this would benifit the poor 3S's here in Hell - I mean Houston.

[Insanity-74]

I`m still working on it...progress is being made....will post up some pictures when I`m done.....fabrication is about 70% complete...in a few weeks I should be ready for welding......just about ready to make the inlet and outlet pipes. Keep burning myself on the hot metal (needed to bend the alloy) so I`m taking a break for a few days to let the burns heel

[beno]

Ive been waiting for a long time for your final decision on the set up
and now its finally arrived... its like christmas... cant wait to see the stats, keep it up mate!
(glad to see you didnt get put off)

[laff09]

two pairs of leather gloves, one to wear and one to hold the metal with and you'll be good to go

[Insanity-74]

two pairs of leather gloves, one to wear and one to hold the metal with and you'll be good to go

That would be a good start...bending the metal hot isnt a problem...I just use tools to hold it with...the problem is I keep forgetting that the metal is very hot...and stays very hot for a good long while....when its all bent into shape I think..."Right...just put these bits together to make sure its all the right size/shape etc" pick the bit of metal up....unfortunately its usually with my bare hands.....the resulting "TSSSSSSSSSSSS" sound as my skin sears itself to the metal and the following "AAAaaaaaargh" in pain still dosnt appear to be enough from stopping me doing exactly the same thing ten mins later....you`d think I`d learn wouldnt you...but no....my brain appears to be missing the part required to remember that metal stays hot for more than 20 seconds.

Havnt done much this weekend...been at the Toyota Sprint Series, but I`m gonna get my arse into gear this week and try and get the fabrication completed up to the point where I`ll be ready to form the inlet and outlet pipes, but this needs to be done on the car to make sure everything is a perfect fit.

This post has been edited by Insanity-74: Jun 15, 2008 - 2:29 AM

[presure2]

my brain appears to be missing the part required to remember that metal stays hot for more than 20 seconds.

WOOT.
now i know im not the only one.

just FYI, it also stays hot for a good bit after welding as well!
BWAHAHAHAHa

[devilsden97]

my brain appears to be missing the part required to remember that metal stays hot for more than 20 seconds.

WOOT.
now i know im not the only one.

just FYI, it also stays hot for a good bit after welding as well!
BWAHAHAHAHa

lol i love 6gc.net

[97lestyousay]

Nice work, very impressive craftsmanship. I can't wait to see it all finished.
You are making me realize how good I have it working in an air conditioned shop.

[6strngs]

two pairs of leather gloves, one to wear and one to hold the metal with and you'll be good to go

That would be a good start...bending the metal hot isnt a problem...I just use tools to hold it with...the problem is I keep forgetting that the metal is very hot...and stays very hot for a good long while....when its all bent into shape I think..."Right...just put these bits together to make sure its all the right size/shape etc" pick the bit of metal up....unfortunately its usually with my bare hands.....the resulting "TSSSSSSSSSSSS" sound as my skin sears itself to the metal and the following "AAAaaaaaargh" in pain still dosnt appear to be enough from stopping me doing exactly the same thing ten mins later....you`d think I`d learn wouldnt you...but no....my brain appears to be missing the part required to remember that metal stays hot for more than 20 seconds.

Havnt done much this weekend...been at the Toyota Sprint Series, but I`m gonna get my arse into gear this week and try and get the fabrication completed up to the point where I`ll be ready to form the inlet and outlet pipes, but this needs to be done on the car to make sure everything is a perfect fit.

a pair of welding gloves should help you out with that

[Insanity-74]

two pairs of leather gloves, one to wear and one to hold the metal with and you'll be good to go

That would be a good start...bending the metal hot isnt a problem...I just use tools to hold it with...the problem is I keep forgetting that the metal is very hot...and stays very hot for a good long while....when its all bent into shape I think..."Right...just put these bits together to make sure its all the right size/shape etc" pick the bit of metal up....unfortunately its usually with my bare hands.....the resulting "TSSSSSSSSSSSS" sound as my skin sears itself to the metal and the following "AAAaaaaaargh" in pain still dosnt appear to be enough from stopping me doing exactly the same thing ten mins later....you`d think I`d learn wouldnt you...but no....my brain appears to be missing the part required to remember that metal stays hot for more than 20 seconds.

Havnt done much this weekend...been at the Toyota Sprint Series, but I`m gonna get my arse into gear this week and try and get the fabrication completed up to the point where I`ll be ready to form the inlet and outlet pipes, but this needs to be done on the car to make sure everything is a perfect fit.

a pair of welding gloves should help you out with that

So would half a brain...I appear to be missing both

my brain appears to be missing the part required to remember that metal stays hot for more than 20 seconds.

WOOT.
now i know im not the only one.

just FYI, it also stays hot for a good bit after welding as well!
BWAHAHAHAHa

Excellent...more oportunities for me to burn myself....I cant wait

This post has been edited by Insanity-74: Jun 15, 2008 - 3:15 PM

[DEATH]

Update?

[Driveby]

Yeah slacker c'mon hurry up.
Been fiddling with other things instead, havent you

[D-Man]

Update?

[Insanity-74]

Sorry, been busy over the past few weeks, but its nearly done, nothing welded yet (hence the tape) but everything is cut to size and shaped. Had the final fitting yesterday with the brackets that I made in place to support the chargecooler off the engine a little.

First fit....looking a little unlikely that the bonnet will close



but it did and with room to spare

The water inlet/outlet end tanks



it does stick up kinda high



but theres a good gap to help keep it away from the hot bits of the engine



the rear end tank was a PITA to make, as its all twisted to make everything line up correctly and to make enough clearance for the various bits n pices in the engine bay

[DEATH]

Damn that's nice - get it welded already!
Oh yeah and when does mass production start?

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 5, 2008 - 6:41 AM

[Insanity-74]

Awaiting the return of the first bit of welding which was sent off at the beginning of the week...so touch wood, it should be all done soon and ready for pressure and leak tests.

[chacha]

I would like one too bro...let me know ASAP...just collecting parts...run test on it to see how it performs once done and compare result with FMIC...thanks for your brillant mind and initiative courage to make the celica stand more out and proud...looks great btw.

[Insanity-74]

I would like one too bro...let me know ASAP...just collecting parts...run test on it to see how it performs once done and compare result with FMIC...thanks for your brillant mind and initiative courage to make the celica stand more out and proud...looks great btw.

Cheers bud The first lot of welding has been completed and I`m waiting for it to be returned for inspection and DPi test.....some more bits will be sent off later this week, then unfortunately the welder goes on holiday for a couple of weeks so I`ll be stuck for a while.....I`ll be using that time to make final adjustments and make sure everything is aligned 100%....unfortunately its not a quick process but good things come to those who wait.

If anyone wants to make there own I`ll produce detaled drawings/dimensions and suppliers lists once I`m done and I know that it works.

[Insanity-74]

Reaching the final stages now...got the first bit of welding back and its looking pretty good..dressed quite well, just needs smoothing over and polishing up...some more went off today, Looking forward to getting this done and onto the car.

[Insanity-74]

Header tank completed........just needs finishing

[DEATH]

So cool - watching with intense interest

[Insanity-74]

Will be finished quicker than I thought as the welder is fast.......50% welding completed by the weekend....then some more lining up and the final welding finished next week.......then 5 bar pressure test to see if it leaks and then ready for fitting/testing and away we go...cool running ahead

[DEATH]

UPDATE!

[Nial]

the welder is back from holiday on monday (tomorrow) so it should all be starting again soon......maybe 2 weeks maximum before its on and running. Have bought all the pipework and heat shielding required and have bought a charge air temp sensor to monitor charge air temps.

Getting excited now as its been over one year since I thought of this idea....cant wait to get it on...I hope it works cause I`m going to look very silly in deed if it dosnt

[njccmd2002]

dude you have two accounts.

[Nial]

Yes I know I do....am dropping the old "Insanity-74" user name and using my real name instead, after seeing a doctor the insanity has been cured. & I`m back to normal...well as normal as possible.

[Nial]

[enderswift]

paint/polish

[DEATH]

Polish it up and put the IC decal back on it The RC sticker is the sweetest one

[Nial]

I`m tempted to paint it black to match the origonal!!!!!! but I`m not sure yet?

[DEATH]

I`m tempted to paint it black to match the origonal!!!!!! but I`m not sure yet?

No no no no NOOOO!
Finish it all nice and super wet sand polished - then apply the stock one on there and it will be the very definition of ultra hotness

This post has been edited by DEATH: Oct 17, 2008 - 2:26 PM

[stephen_lee]

oh yes, polish and put the stock decal on! that'd look sick

[6strngs]

so how is it? any noticable difference from the stock one?

[Nial]

I dont know yet...that was just a test fitting to line up the final weld correctly, but its right on the limit of available space so getting it to fit in the space and line up has been a bit of a nightmare....I have some water pipework to figure out as again its very tight under there with not alot of space.....I`ll need to relocate one or two standard sensors and reroute some cabling. Hopefully this time next week I`ll be able to give you the answer and it will all be done.

[Nial]

Finished

[DEATH]

Nice man - nice. So how does it feel? I know where you can get a ST-205 W2A IC sticker for the top - I think it would look great on top of that.
Top notch work man - wanna make me one now?

[Nial]

Nice man - nice. So how does it feel? I know where you can get a ST-205 W2A IC sticker for the top - I think it would look great on top of that.
Top notch work man - wanna make me one now?

Cheers bud...i already have a sticker for the top...just havnt stuck it on yet Havnt had a chance to take it for a blast yet as I`m missing a jubilee clip to seal one of the water pipes...will sort that out tomorrow and then go and play

[PhilipK]

Where can you get the ST205 sticker at?

[lagos]

incredible work, man.

[devilsden97]

ok, i dont know a ton, but i guess i have 2 questions.


1) how is this more efficient then your stock w2a? (Sorry if i missed it)

2) If i read correctly your leaving it that unfinished aluminum color...y not paint it the color of the car?

[Nial]

ok, i dont know a ton, but i guess i have 2 questions.


1) how is this more efficient then your stock w2a? (Sorry if i missed it)

2) If i read correctly your leaving it that unfinished aluminum color...y not paint it the color of the car?

1) It has alot more cooling surface area than the standard set up..its bigger and carries more water

(standard charge cooler temps range from about 30C/86F to 65C/149F...My charge cooler temps have so far ranged from 4C/40F to 34C/94F)

2) Aluminium reflects heat alot better than paint & I like it bare aluminium

Where can you get the ST205 sticker at?

I peeled mine off an old charge cooler I had that I cut open during my research its like a thick plastic sticker held on by 4 strips of double sided sticky tape...or the Toyota dealers sell them for not alot of money

incredible work, man.

Thanks...that really means alot coming from you after seeing some of your genius work

[DEATH]

1) It has alot more cooling surface area than the standard set up..its bigger and carries more water

(standard charge cooler temps range from about 30C/86F to 65C/149F...My charge cooler temps have so far ranged from 4C/40F to 34C/94F)

Very impressive

[Culpable04]

wow 4 C, that's colder than my AC on the summer. what kind of " water " are you using ? regular coolant ?

[Nial]

I`m Just using toyota for life stuff...the lowest temp was on a first run (just as the engine reached operating temp) and the ambient temp was about 0deg....theres no way I`d see temps that low on a proper run.

Temps average out at about 27C/82F

On a very hard run today where the car got a beating the temps reached 34C/94F...ambient temp is about 10C/50F...thats just about what I`d expect on the track.

The weak point is the radiator which I`ll be making a replacement for soon

[enderswift]

I admire what you did. Its one thing to piece together a quality setup from prefabricated parts. But to identify a weak link, then engineer a superior substitute just warrants respect. good ****

[presure2]

amazing work nial.

[_Jim_]

What kind of Pump are you going to be using.

[Nial]

What kind of Pump are you going to be using.

At the moment just the standard pump....so far its working fine and the flow rates look pretty good......I see no reason to change at the moment....will see what the inlet temos are like once the new radiator is made and will see if I need an uprated pump...at this time I`d say no.

[beno]

Nice work Nial!

Just out of interest are you able to compare the temperature range that a front mount intercooler produces on a similar temperature day with a similar thrashing?
I know the reasons you didint want a front mount but I'm just interested in the temperature comparisons and thought you'd be the one to have a good idea.

This post has been edited by beno: Dec 22, 2008 - 5:53 PM

[Nial]

Nice work Nial!

Just out of interest are you able to compare the temperature range that a front mount intercooler produces on a similar temperature day with a similar thrashing?
I know the reasons you didint want a front mount but I'm just interested in the temperature comparisons and thought you'd be the one to have a good idea.

Well the temps are not that far off a FMIC.....a FMIC runs up to 10 deg cooler when on the move depending on the quality of the FMIC, but alot hotter when stuck in slow traffic.

It depends on what you want from your car...alot of people buy cheap e-bay FMIC`s and this will in all likely hood be a downgrade over a standard st205/st185CS charge cooler set up. They have bad flow and not terriby good cooling ability.

But I am in the process of making a new alloy pre rad for the charge cooler which should hopefully bring my temps closer to that of a good quality FMIC.

So much to do on my car its untrue....my sunroof cracked a while ago..I need to replace that next before it starts to leak.

Also replacing my engine...we can get brand new 3sgte built short blocks here for $2000.....next on my list of things to do as my poor engine has now covered 220,000 miles now. Just got to strip down my spare engine to get the cylinderhead off so I can port it, redo the valves etc etc....so much work...on top of all that I have to build my workshop which is currently just a pile of bricks