installing a volt gauge., question. Options

[cnelson]

Ok, i just order my volt gauge this afternoon. I am not worried because its an esay gauge to setup.. however where is the hole in the firewall that i need to run the wire through? If anyone has a picture of where it is and a little step by step on how to get there it would be awesome.

Thanks guys. -Chris.

[Tigawoods]

just use a wire tap to tap into any 12v wire u have running to any instruments, the gauge will always read 12 no matter where you put it, when u turn on the engine it will be 14.

[cnelson]

Wait.. so like i could just tap the wire that my cig liter uses? I mean i'm not sure.. but it doesn't seem right. I want to know what power the battery is putting out, not what power that line is useing.. sorry, correct me if i'm wrong.

[XS4lv1Truch0x]

Wait.. so like i could just tap the wire that my cig liter uses? I mean i'm not sure.. but it doesn't seem right. I want to know what power the battery is putting out, not what power that line is useing.. sorry, correct me if i'm wrong.

all power comes through the battery

so you will be getting a correct reading with any 12 volt + wire

i would attach it to a 12 volt switched wire so when the key is off the volt meter is off and when you turn the key it gets a reading.

[cnelson]

well is the cig liter switched off when the car goes off?

[D-Man]

Yes.

The cig. lighter accesses power when in "ACC" mode and in "IGN" mode. It does not recieve power durring "Key In" mode nor in "OFF" mode.

For complete wiring diagrams click here

This post has been edited by D-Man: Aug 12, 2008 - 9:37 AM

[cnelson]

these are what the directions say; http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/pdfinstruct...g7t7w7/volt.pdf

[D-Man]

Fuse yellow to battery
Ground Black to ground chassis
And Red to any remote power switch you'd like. Cigarette lighter is an optimum choice. also radio power is advisable. you can easily install a fused acc feed via the interior fuse panel.

Auto stores make a special fuse attachment that doubles a fuse slot.

[cnelson]

Yeah, the add-a-fuse things. I already have one set up for my LED lights on the inside.


But i will need to run the yellow wire to my battery correct?

[D-Man]

according to the manufactures directions, it requires a constant positive(+) feed. Any constant source of positive(+) energy will do fine. Make sure you add an inline fuse for added security. You can find Constant source's of energy located in your power door locks, ignition, interior lights, ect. The battery is the most common option.

[cnelson]

Ok, i have some interior LEDs that are hooked up.. they use the same fuse that my headlights are on because i used the add-a-fuse mini thing.

If i took both the yellow wire, and the red wire and attached them to the positive wire that i use for my LED lights would that work? (i'm not sure if that is a constant source of power) And then just ground it somewhere.


But if it needs a constant positive source i also don't want it to drain my battery.


Sorry if i sound like a complete moron here. I know some electric stuff, but this is really the first big thing i'm doing and i just want to make sure i do it right.

This post has been edited by cnelson: Aug 12, 2008 - 2:52 PM

[D-Man]

This is not what you want to do. This will deny the gauge an "off" setting. Even when you turn off the car, the gauge will stay on. This will drain your battery.

Run the yellow line from your Aftermarket radio's constant line. Then attach the ACC line to the "add-a-fuse: to the fuse for your Cig. Lighter located in the cabin. Ground the black one. Perfecto.

(IMO you should atach it to your altinator, but this will require much line running, and most likely for nothing.) the gauge will be work perfectly when tirggered to your cig lighter.

[cnelson]

Ok, so what else beside my radio could i use to run the yellow line? Because i don't want to splice that line and than if i don't do a good job at putting it all back together, or if the wire is slightly lose.. than my radio will not get power. (i only say this because i don't plan on soldering it, and i know that sometimes if i hit a bump my LEDs will flicker loseing power for a second, and i don't want that to happen to my radio..

[D-Man]

Oh good lord, please dont tell me you're sporting electrical tape?

Butt-connectors work wonders.

[cnelson]

hahaha. unfortunately i would love to tell you that i am not sporting electric tape, but i am.. however for this project i will drop to autozone and buy some butt-connectors. I mean, i don't mind if my lights flicker every now and than, except my radio is a little more important so i'll drop the 3 bucks on them, while i'm at it maybe i'll use them on my lights also.

[D-Man]

POSI-LOCK is For The MF WIN!! because you can use em, they'll hold well, and allow you to come and modify later! Wal*Mart, $3.00 to make sure you dont fry your stuff!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POSI-LOCK-T...emZ350074811656

[cnelson]

and you can get those things at walmart? because if so i'll pick some up when i go up to the hardware store to have them cut my plastic for where i'm mounting my gauge.. (i will post pics, its a little surprise. ha)


but just so i'm clear, there really isn't any other wire that is right there that i could tap into huh? or even if i ran a new one from the inside fuse box if i knew what fuse to use.

This post has been edited by cnelson: Aug 12, 2008 - 3:27 PM

[Tigawoods]

invest in a good solder kit. solder your connections

[cnelson]

I guess i'll just have to use the radio and hope that i know what i'm doing. I'll be a little nervous, but if i get those connectors than i really shouldn't have a problem right?

This post has been edited by cnelson: Aug 12, 2008 - 3:36 PM

[D-Man]

and you can get those things at walmart? because if so i'll pick some up when i go up to the hardware store to have them cut my plastic for where i'm mounting my gauge.. (i will post pics, its a little surprise. ha)

but just so i'm clear, there really isn't any other wire that is right there that i could tap into huh? or even if i ran a new one from the inside fuse box if i knew what fuse to use.

Yup, cheap and easy. Make sure you get the posi-lock. It's the ones that you twist and they stay in place. Or 'splicers' for clamping into your cig line.

invest in a good solder kit. solder your connections

x150!!
But when i know that something isn't in permanent position, i'll use those posi-lock connectors. Or they also work wonders for testing equipment. You don't wanna solder something into your car when you're just testing it for sale. But you also don't want to leave wires flapping around!

But for this guys purposes, Solder and shrink wrap would be ideal. Posi-lock connectors are better than electrical tape though

[cnelson]

can you get splicers at walmart also, or am i better looking at some auto parts store?

[D-Man]

Yes, a few dollars for 6-10.

[cnelson]

Ok, cool. I just took apart my dash to look at things, what wire is the positive wire for the cig liter, is it the white and green colored one?

[D-Man]

Witch ever one is attached to the negative port on the cig lighter. Not trying to be a smart ass, I just dont know off the top of my head. The negitive port is the one on the "out-side" most rim of the two.

[cnelson]

Ok, i'll figure it out. So here it goes now that i think i have this down;

yellow wire goes to my positive wire on my radio. (with a 3amp fuse installed in the line)
red wire goes to the positive wire on my cig liter.
black wire gets grounded.

correct?


btw; my gauge just showed up at my door. ha.

[D-Man]

PICS!

yes, that schematic will due just fine.

EDIT: fine not tine

This post has been edited by D-Man: Aug 12, 2008 - 4:32 PM

[cnelson]

well i won't be installing it untill this weekend. I need to trim some things on my dash, get my plastic cut, get those posi-lock things, and get splicers.


quick question; could i just use a splicer on the radio wire?

[D-Man]

you "can" Although, most people wont recommend using them for anything. I usually wont even tell people they exist, but in your case (i'm imagining that you dont have solder equip) it'll work fine for your purposes. Not to be confused with ANY purpose

DO NOT EVER get splicer happy. Otherwise, if you do, and later sell the car, and some dude down the road owns it, and comes to kick your ass... you'll deserve it Trust me, i'm looking for the guy who installed an alarm on my car right now.

G/L

This post has been edited by D-Man: Aug 12, 2008 - 4:37 PM

[cnelson]

haha. Ok, thanks. I will take plenty of pics and let everyone know how it goes!

[cnelson]

Ok, even after looking into splices and all that, i am still very nervous about using the wire from my radio. What if i used the Ignition fuse from the inside fuse panel would this work? Because that goes on and off with the car correct?


Sorry i know i am being a pain in the ass but i just installed this radio and don't need to F it up already..

[Batman722]

with all do respect we have 2 pages/29 replys for a post about instaling a volt gauge. WTF ?

From what I've read, the gauge come with instructions on how to wire it up. I'm sorry to sound like a jerk but if you can't wire in a volt gauge you shouldn't be buying one.

why in the name of Dustin would you need a volt gauge ? battery problems ? alternator problems ? got a couple of big amps and a kickin system to monitor ?

once again, I'm sorry to sound like a jerk but this post saddens me.

[cnelson]

Sorry man, i really thought your post was unnecessary. I know how to wire it up i read the dierections. Its only three simple wires. If you had read what we were talking about than maybe you would understand it better.

D-Man was just giving me a better idea on how to wire it up because i thought that the yellow wire HAD to go to my battery, however i was incorrect. All he was doing was telling me that i could use the wire on my aftermarket radio for the reading.

And half the posts are us talking about different types of connectors and wire splicers to use.

And yeah, i have been having battery problems because of my new system. So don't think i'm just putting the gauge in for it to look cool.



..everyone on here is always really chill. I don't understand the need for your post at all. Sorry that i am not as electrically inclined like some people on here. I just wanted to make sure i was doing it right before i did it at all.

This post has been edited by cnelson: Aug 13, 2008 - 5:22 AM

[DEATH]

Just FYI [sorry to throw a wrench in your plan] I have two volt meters hooked up to two different spots ATM and you will get a 1volt lower reading from anything in the interior than what is actually in your Battery/Alt line. Also the volt meter will not, by itself, run down your battery unless you just leave the car parked for weeks or something or if the light is on in it [which would indicate you wired it wrong - this is why you have two 12v lines just like the radio or any other gauge].
BTW my volt meters are hooked up to:
1 - Cig lighter power [Reads 12v nearly all the time - not a true reading at all] Gonna move this one to my system after the capacitor when I finish that install.
1 - Battery [reads 12v with engine off, 13-14.5 with engine running - also the Turbo timer has a volt meter display option and it agrees with the this gauge - not the one off the cig lighter] This one will remain my true volts meter so I can keep an eye on that damn alt and get some warning before it goes out hopefully.

[D-Man]

yeah, you are right of course; but at least it'll get him hooked up. The battery or the altinator (IMO) would be the ideal location, but if it at least shows 12V, then he'll be fine. It's all for show anyway(as he stated earlier). He'll know that his interior components are receiving 12V of power, where as i doubt he's ready, nor this is gauge intended, to tackle engine tuning and performance building, where he'd have an actual NEED for the gauge. I use the term need lightly in this case.

My justification: It's a show thing more than anything, and this hook-up will allow it to be simple and easy, and not have to run a dramatic amount of lines. For his purposes, it's all he needs.

But you are right of course; DEATH.

BATMAN - I understand dude. But ya gotta crawl before you can walk right? Nevertheless, i do understand

[Batman722]

I'm sorry, I over reacted.

[cnelson]

Alright well thank you everyone for the input. I really appreciate all the help i get on here, seriously. I wouldn't be able to go anything without this forum.

And the MAIN reason for the gauge is; If i have the car off and i am listening to music than i will be able to tell if my battery starts to drop to low. Because i have had problems where i would be sitting around in a parking lot with some people just listening to music and after a while i go to turn the car back on and my battery would be dead. So i figure if it starts to drop below 10 volts or so, i can start the car and let it charge a little and i won't get stuck having to be jumped.

[DEATH]

I'm sorry, I over reacted.

That's fcuking awesome of you man!
I was thinking how I felt the first time I spliced into one of my Celica's wiring [For a radio no doubt] and I knew you had to remember that feeling ["Oh crap I hope I don't set this MF on fire "].

And the MAIN reason for the gauge is; If i have the car off and i am listening to music than i will be able to tell if my battery starts to drop to low. Because i have had problems where i would be sitting around in a parking lot with some people just listening to music and after a while i go to turn the car back on and my battery would be dead. So i figure if it starts to drop below 10 volts or so, i can start the car and let it charge a little and i won't get stuck having to be jumped.

Surprisingly it doesn't work to well for that - you can still be showing 12V but the amps are too low to crank. I thought much the same as you did years ago. it will help towards that end but don't take it as the be all end all or anything Would need Volts and Amps meters for that I think.
Damn - I really seem to be the rain on this parade - sorry bro - just trying to make sure you know the facts and don't get stranded.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 13, 2008 - 1:40 PM

[cnelson]

=\ ahh man that sucks.. but i guess i'll just have to make due.

unless of course i run the wire to my battery right?


is it REALLY that hard to do?

This post has been edited by cnelson: Aug 13, 2008 - 1:45 PM

[D-Man]

no. extending two wires is all that's required. (constant(+) and Negative(-)) wire them directly to the battery's terminals.

EDIT: my spelling sucks!

This post has been edited by D-Man: Aug 13, 2008 - 2:18 PM

[DEATH]

If you have a dual post battery [Top and side] - the sides make convienent accessory wiring points - just need replacement bolts from Walmart etc for like $2 ea

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 13, 2008 - 2:18 PM

[cnelson]

thats what i want to do, extend the positive and negative wires, but where is the easiest place in the firewall to run them through?

[DEATH]

There are several holes available but the one for the steering is the most instantly gratifiying - just be sure to tie them very securely on both side of the firewall - the last thing you want is for them to get caught and effect your steering . I'd say there are much better choices but that's the one I see people using the most.
i like to use the one for the wiring harness - pop a small hole in the boot and feed them through to the PS floorboard - Easy but a long trip around.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 14, 2008 - 3:47 PM

[D-Man]

no. If you've got a GT there is a hole in the firewall about 6-8 inches from the steering colum, that IDK what the hell it's for, but it's about a 8-6 gauge hole. Big enough for my AMP wiring It's where i slid my AFR gauge wireing thru too.

Also, if you drop your driver side tire splashgaurd, there is a wiring harness there. Go with that one and it'll poke out right at the battary. That way your wires will NEVER be in the way. Nor ever be seen untill the hit the battary. Very profesional.

[DEATH]

no. If you've got a GT there is a hole in the firewall about 6-8 inches from the steering colum, that IDK what the hell it's for, but it's about a 8-6 gauge hole. Big enough for my AMP wiring It's where i slid my AFR gauge wireing thru too.

You gotta show me this.
as for the rest - that's where I also ran my gauge wires - above the DS front tire well.