TurboCharger project from scrap for Do-IT-Yourself, Turbocharging your car from parts gather Options

[west_minist]

In Barbados, a lot of guys have put together their turbocharger kit.

This post is to show you in simple terms how easy or hard it is to turbocharged your ride.

I believe my USA, AUS and other will find the part more readily available than us here in the Caribbean.

Please note that this document is to serve as a reference for your customized job. I am not liable for any damages and problems cause buy this document.

I am not a Mechanic, Engineer or have anything relate to the automotive industry.

I have been very fortunate to be around Mechanics, Auto Electricians and people doing these projects.

Part List:

Note pad, Computer or your little brother/sister making notes

1) Meters for monitoring your car. E.g., Temp, Boost, A/R Ratio, pressure and so on.

I would recommend Blitz DC Series meters* or any other

Power Meter
You can also use the Btilz Power Meter i-D http://www.blitz-na.com/PM_ID.htm OR the G-TECH/Pro Competition http://www.gtechpro.com Monitoring tool.

2) New Computer like Autronics, Motec, TEC3 or piggy back computers like the Apex AVC & SAFC

3) Blitz Turbo Timer or any other

4) Ignition Controller with Boost and Timing controls. E.g. Crane Cams (6000-6466
)*, MSD(PN 6520), HKS

5) Ignition Coil. Nology M80*, Crane Cams LS92, MSD PN 8252

6) Nology Plug wires* or TRD, MSD, Crane Cams or any others

7) Iridium Spark Plugs. NGK, HKS

8) Hoses, wire, clamps, cable ties and other stuff you might need as you go along

9) Light Rims like OZ Racing*, Racing Hart, Yokohama Advan* Rims and so on.

10) VeilSide*, MagnaFlow, HKS, Apex or any other exhaust w/ customize 2.5 -3” down pipe.
11) Customized header for the turbo

12) JIC, TRD or others structural braces.

13) JIC Suspension, Ground Control Suspension

Include anything here to make you car performer like a street/race car for handling and performance.


No ordering here. You are now in turbo world

Forge Pistons and Crank if you can. If not, please run low boost <8psi with the small HKS turbo like the GT2510 or even small GT-SS from HKS or Toyota CT20B*

Cam Gear from AEM, HKS, JUN or where ever you can get one for your vehicle

Celica GTFour turbo CT20B or any other within a 300HP+ specs. All turbos have internal wastegates. Please verify this with HKS first.

- HKS GT 2510* or GT2530 or GT2535
- Please give yourself enough room for future HP numbers

BOV (Blow Off Valves) from Blitz, HKS, Greddy and others

Celica GTFour injectors or new Injectors from RC Engineering (500-550cc)

Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator with optional boost inlet. e.g. 2 vacuum ports + fuel in/out

- HKS http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=630
- TRD


Intercooler from HKS or some other manufactures. You can also try the GTFour or OEM intercooler from any other car manufactures

Piping,hoses and clamps for turbo setup

Oil Cooler for cooling the engine oil and piping to carry oil to and from the turbo.

Most of All, a lot of research in turbocharging your car.

Please take your time in setting up and tuning your car. Short cuts does not get you any way. You may even be ready to offer a custom kit to others once you can get those parts available.

Info + Links
High Grip Tires (Possibly Dot)

Bridgestone Potenza RE01 Japanese tire (Better than the S03) http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...lp=ja_en&tt=url

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...01%2F01top.html

Bridgestone Potenza S03

Yokohama Advan Neova

Nitto NT-555 "Extreme ZR” http://www.nittotire.com/mainframe.asp

http://www.toyoracing.com/

http://www.kumhousa.com/pages/pcr/ev700.htm

http://www.kumhousa.com/pages/pcr/vv700.htm

http://www.kumhousa.com/pages/pcr/pass_comp.htm


Fuel Controller
http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_safc.asp


Ignition Coil
http://www.nology.com/profireauto.html


Injectors
http://www.rceng.com/
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=718


TurboChargers (Lite)
http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092

BlowOff Valves
http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=792


Boost Controller
http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_savcr.asp


Miscellaneous
http://www.blitz-na.com/Blitz_Products.htm

http://www.xs-engineering.com/

http://www.motec.com/products/plm.htm



Intakes
http://www.blitz-na.com/Toyota_Intake.htm

http://www.apexi-usa.com/intake_powerintake.asp



Radar
http://www.beltronics.com/vector990.html

http://www.beltronics.com/vector985.html


Security
http://www.clarion.com/products/security/secure1.htm


Muffler
http://www.veilside.com/veilsideusa/muffle...r/TiMuffler.htm


Electronics Ignition (for your car)
http://www.cranecams.com/ignition/hi6trc.htm


Rims
http://www.ozwheels.com/OZ_html/carWheels.html Far Right under O.Z. Racing
http://www.racinghart.com/wheels_rac.asp


This post has been edited by west_minist: Jan 25, 2003 - 4:32 PM

[west_minist]

Please remember that this project need extraordinary care.

Please remember your Fuel demand, oil levels, new oil, consistency in checking oil levels, oil pressures, oil temperature. In fact, check all temperatures on the engine.

Your engine needs fuel! If not you can scrapped it. Remember the Adustable fuel regulator.

Yor timing might have to be retard base on boost and fuel usage.

Again, do some reading in turbocharging vehicle from magazines like Turbomagazine and others.

My list is small and will need additionals info to do certainthings like cutting pipe, making a customse header, welding shops, setting up the piggy back computers and so on.

I look forward to some nice additions from the Neverstop and others who can help others in this project, since everyone just need the cure to cure the big HP+ virus we all have!

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jan 12, 2003 - 7:10 PM

[Guest_Matthew_*]

you can get an exhaust manifold from toyosport. I have a question though, do you seriously need rims, tires, and new suspension to make a turbo? Or is that what you have on your car?

[NiTTo]

lol! I was thinking on saying that 2 but i dont wanna start something. I already had some problems because of what I said earlier on the stickers appearal + kits. You take the words out of my mouth igotta...

[x_itchy_b_x]

sweet thanks for all the sweet links though. im looking into doing the 7af(t)e.
lots of great information.

[west_minist]

QUOTE (igotta5S-FEturbo @ Jan 12 2003, 05:55 PM)

you can get an exhaust manifold from toyosport.  I have a question though, do you seriously need rims, tires, and new suspension to make a turbo?  Or is that what you have on your car?

The aim here:mad: is to have a vehicle performing.

The info is for any car or celica. If toysort, hks or any other makes turbo manifold for the celica 5SFE, 7AFE and so on, then go out and buy it. If not, you will need piecs or angular pipes to make one.

Have you ever when to meets or races and see people turning up with all sort of problems?

How can you gauge the full potential off your car on the street and even after upgrading.

A dyno is a dyno, but those number does not tell you how the car will perform on the street.

The present car performs fairly good.

When you up the hp, everything things counts. The once good suspension, becomes soft and may performs badly, leading the car to under/oversteer, too much body roll and so on.

The once grippy tire at 165HP or so are no longer any use over 220HP.

Come on guys, please think and read before replying. I do not what the list to be long with foolishness. Please understand this.

This post is made to be short. The main thing here is to see what you need and where to start and what you can add.

Getting a good platform and work from there will only show really results.

Example:

I have a friend of my who change his 5AFE in this 1998 corolla to a 4age 20v silver top. The car was mad. He realise that compression was down in 2 cycl's. He did nothing about it. To him, the car was wicked. He was beating some 1600cc Hoda civics, intregras and so on.

He decided to turbocharge it with a custom kit. To make a long story short, he knock the engine.

He got a new 20v silver top bottom, cleaned up the once leaking head and now, the car is almostas fast as the turbo version. The engines revs like mad. This engine gives a better gauge in power and handling. Next step, turbo.

Any friend just turbocharge and forgot about oil, fuel and so forth. He has melt his pistons twice due to the lack of fuel.

He has not piggy back computer, not new high flow injectors and so on.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 9, 2003 - 8:23 PM

[west_minist]

Someone ask me what is a piggy back computer.

A piggy back computer is an extra device which adds functionality to a computerise device.

For instant, you have just put on a Air filter from HKS and a veilside exhaust.

Please remember that with an added new filter, the engine is now breathing better; At least by 20% stated by some. More than likely, you are running a little lean. This is where the Air Fuel Ratio meter comes into play. It is a must. It shows you how your A/F ratio mixture is behaving at varying rpm's.

Have you ever hear someone saying, "the car runs good, but is leaning out or just not performing up top"?

Also, with the added filter, you may want a little perf. To compensate this lean problem, you NEED MORE FUEL. How can you get it? A number of ways which can not be dealt with here or maybe at a later time in this posting.

The best possible way, especially for future project and going turbo, is to have a new computer, which can be expensive.

It is better to go with a PECU (programmeable ECU). The cheapest way that you have have a PECU without stripping in to the harness for a total new computer upgrade like a Autronics, Motec, TEC3 system, is to run a computer that just handle fuel or what ever you need.

The computer allows you to control your fuel requirement fooling the car ecu about things not to worry about.

You can use this same piggy back computer to change fuel requirements base on rpm, boost and so on. More versitility in your control!

I hope that I have done a pretty good job explaining this. Anyone can jump in an add whats needed. My wrist is starting to hurt after a computer accident last week

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 9, 2003 - 8:23 PM

[Guest_Matthew_*]

let's say that I bought a PECU. How would I program it?

[west_minist]

Is pretty simple.

once setup, please follow the documentation.

You will need one of your friends to help you or a dyno.

You can drive the car as you tune the A?F ratio at different rpm.

You can also store them in presets. Have a economical mode and a race more if you like.

The most important part is the documentation.

I particularly like Apex Super AFC. HKS also has one.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_safc.asp

For documentation : http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentat...cs_safc_ins.pdf

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 9, 2003 - 8:24 PM

[west_minist]

I do not understand.

Your profile states you have a turbo. Did you brought the car so or did you turbo it?

If so, any reason why you are asking me those questions? Are you trying to test me?

[marcusk]

they had a topic on celica.net on how you could turbo your car for $700...if anyones interested...

[snadman]

post that link to that forum markusk

[rlan214]

QUOTE (snadman @ Jan 12 2003, 08:35 PM)

post that link to that forum markusk

here you go
celica.net

u know it wont hurt u if u at least tried to search for it in celica.net

[Guest_Matthew_*]

I am using my stock ecu. I am really interested in this. I am not testing you by any means.

[west_minist]

Ok.

You can either go piggy backing or replace your cpu with the Autronics SM2 with the 3sgte harness adapter.

call autronics and get it.

You have a greddy T78. That is very big for your engine.

Expect some lag.

Please list your mod for me to see.

Here is my for this year or next year.

If you have money to spend, look here:

MoTec M800 OR Autronics SM2 w/ Direct Fire CDI OR TEC3 w/ Direct Fire Unit
MoTec CDI/8 Capacitor Discharge Ignition

Nology Plug Wires (I personally did not or report seeing any avantage using trd or any other wires). Nology (www.nology.com) really works. Try a set and see.

HKS Iridium Spark Plugs
HKS GT3037S/T04R Turbo
HKS Head Gasket
HKS Header
HKS GT Wastegate
HKS Racing Blowoff Valve Type II
Blitz Intake
HKS Intercooler
550cc Injectors on Primary + 500cc Injectors on secondary
HKS Fuel System upgrades
TRD FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
JUN SPROCKET (1033M-T702)
JUN CAMSHAFT KIT (1033M-T005)
JUN STROKER KIT (1029M-T003)
Fearra Valves
Toda Racing Lightened Flywheel
HKS GD Clutch Pro Multi-Plate Clutch OR Toracing Clutch Kit
Kaaz LSD 1.5way

Tein Type HA Damper Suspension
TRD Strut Tower brace
TRD Rear stabilising brace
TRD Anti-Roll Bars
Brembo Brakes kit
Bridgestone Potenza S03/RE-01/ Bridgestone Potenza 540S/Yokohama Advan Neova/Yokohama Advan A048/Toyo Proxes RA1
- Which ever available. You have the S03's & RA1's in your market. If you can get the other from some import store, let me know. I want some RE01 bad.

Racing Hart M35 Rims
Veilside Front Bumper
VeilSide Side Skirts
Carcept Rear Bumper
VeilSide Rear Wing

When you are finish, you will have a Top Secret Celica for any match.

Setup guarantee for 700HP+

My mods assumes a well prepared block. My only problem is the transmission.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jan 13, 2003 - 7:47 PM

[west_minist]

Did anyone find this to be helpful information?

[boosted_K2]

yes very helpful!

I request this as a sticky thread! lol

[NEVERSTOP]

west_minist that is a lot of good info... the only problem is alot of people are not as informed as others and not everyone has shops that can do cuztom stuff... also you could just buy a 3sgte or 4agze for the price of everything you have listed. Its still alot of good info though... by the way ever given ne thought to putting a semi turbo on a sport compact??? there like 60lbs of boost... would be a mircale if the thing even survived idel but god it would be nice if you could control that kinda power without it going boom... that what like 4.2 bars?

This post has been edited by NEVERSTOP: Jan 18, 2003 - 2:50 AM

[NEVERSTOP]

QUOTE

I have a question though, do you seriously need rims, tires, and new suspension to make a turbo? Or is that what you have on your car?

This actually will make your car move faster... lighter rims and tires reduces weight... wider sticker tire mean more power to the ground... suspension keeps you inline... if your torque steering all over then you not makin the most of you power

[west_minist]

You are right Neverstop.

Some guys seems not to understand that power needs control.

As I stated, sometimes we like to go out of our way to do certain things.

But remember, even after you turbo, you will still need everything that I mention there.

The only difference is the internal difference between the na & as!

I have read in one magazine on sports compacts HP and power.

It is just disgusting. We need to move beyond those vehics.

no HP & lb ft at low rpm or vice versa.

But that would be nice to see 4bar spitting out of the barrel as the car melt its tires into the pavement and the turbo sky rocketted 1000feet, leaving an expression of ecstacy on the drivers face

Either way, I thought that alot of wanna be turbo's would ask some questions.

Strange isn't it.

Well, I am still putting together a how on the turbo addition to any vehic.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 12, 2003 - 7:08 AM

[Guest_Matthew_*]

Where would I get the JUN parts. I am in the process of doing the 3S-GTE swap and the AWD conversion. Can you list some parts that I will need to prduce some high power ratings. I want more than the 255hp that the engine is rated. Maybe somewhere around 500+hp if that is possible. I know that I could get high power at real high boost but I want to be safe and I want to keep the engine for the drive home. Here is what I have already:
Suspension: Centerline 17x8.0 rims. Toyo Proxes RA1. C-One GT-4 Coilovers. Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars, TRD front and rear strut bars, TRD Sway Bar Bushing set.
Engine/Performance: Magnacore wires, I do have a T-78 turbo from a wrecked Supra. I have a HKS intercooler that is made for an eclipse. I figure that that will work fine. Maybe a little custom piping will have to be done. That's about it for the engine. I know that I will need a new ignition and fuel pump/regulator. Anything Else?


Matt

[Mynzeyes]

new downpipe and up pipe, larger BOV, 3+" exhaust, new ECU, complete fuel managment(injectors, pressure regulator, pump, etc) uh...cams, pistons, internals in general, spray the engine w/ n2o to cure turbo lag...dude, the options are endless w/ that engine...plenty of places to look...you should know this.
-John-

[jayi12-15psi]

Tis is all very good information, I really appreciate the links

[Guest_Matthew_*]

QUOTE (Mynzeyes @ Jan 18 2003, 10:34 AM)

new downpipe and up pipe, larger BOV, 3+" exhaust, new ECU, complete fuel managment(injectors, pressure regulator, pump, etc) uh...cams, pistons, internals in general, spray the engine w/ n2o to cure turbo lag...dude, the options are endless w/ that engine...plenty of places to look...you should know this. -John-

thanks, would the greddy SP exhaust be good? Right now I have 2.25" exhaust with a veilside teardrop muffler. I don't think that that is gonna work. So once again is the SP exhaust good?

[west_minist]

The veil side will do.

What is the size of the muffler?

Thanks jayi12-15psi

I have more links but my main interest now is to generate more wanna bees for more info.

The best place you can check for jun parts are at http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/index.html?en

info@junauto.co.jp
PHONE
81-3-3920-4165
FACSIMILE
81-3-3594-2689

Your setup sounds good. But where are you right now? is the car down?

Have you gone into the engine yet? Are you willing to spend money to go the right way without looking back or do you want a rush job with complications is the future igotta5S-FEturbo?

Have you also look at the problems with making 500HP at the flywheel or tire?

Read my original or first post again and see what you need and then come back and ask away.

Also, try to see if you can get a veilside, HKS, Greddy, Jun turbo manifold for your 3rd generation 3SGTE. That will lessen your worries on putting together one unless you can weld some custom pieces of angular pipes together.

If your exhaust is 3inches in size, then you should upgrade your piping from the header to 2.5 - 3.0" for better flow.

You also have a pretty big turbo there. Expect some lag to some point. This can be reduce with a complete:

JUN SPROCKET (1033M-T702)
JUN CAMSHAFT KIT (1033M-T005)
JUN STROKER KIT (1029M-T003)

Again read my posts for further details.

Looking forward to your update on my gquestions above.

P.S. Finishing touches for a 3SGE + Turbo = 3SGTE



This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 12, 2003 - 7:05 AM

[west_minist]

UPDATE

1999 -2004 Toyota Celica Project

The aim of this project is to carry the 1999 Toyota Celica ST202 SIII Hatchback to a higher level.

To achieve this, major modifications of the chassis, engine and electronics will be undertaken.

PARTS

Engine

VeilSide Titanium Muffler
Custom 3” downpipe
MoTec M800
MoTec CDI/8 Capacitor Discharge Ignition
Nology HotWires
HKS Iridium Spark Plugs
HKS GT3037S/T04R Turbo
HKS Head Gasket (2301-RT035) (Thickness 1.6mm) (Bore 87.5mm)
HKS Turbo Header
HKS GT II Wastegate (14005-AK001)
HKS Racing Blowoff Valve Type II (1421-RA001)
Blitz Intake
HKS Intercooler
HKS / RC Engineering 550cc Injectors on Primary + 500cc Injectors on secondary
HKS Fuel System upgrades
TRD FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator #00643-23280-000)
JUN GT Surge Tank (2015M-T001)
JUN SPROCKET (1033M-T702) OR HKS Cam Gear (2204-RT001)
JUN CAMSHAFT KIT (1033M-T005)
JUN STROKER KIT (1029M-T003)
JUN Racing Valve Guide (1008M-T002)
Fearra Valves
Toda Racing Lightened Flywheel
HKS GD Clutch Pro Multi-Plate Clutch (2604-RT003 [Twin Plate]) ?? Need to be verify with HKS for GTFOUR models.
Checkout http://www.fensport.co.uk/partsfiles/st205clutch.htm for clutch kit
Kaaz LSD 2way (DAT2010) ?? Needs to be verify with KAAZ for GTFOUR models since this maybe the LSD for the Rear Differential.


Suspension

Tein Type HA Damper Suspension w/ Camber Plate
TRD Strut Tower brace (00602-53607-006)
C-ONE Strut Tower brace (FT5360-ST200)
TRD Rear stabilising brace
TRD Anti-Roll Bars
JIC Type 1 Lower Frame Brace (ST202LAB1)
Brembo/Wilwood Brakes kit
Bridgestone Potenza S03/RE-01/ Bridgestone Potenza 540S/Yokohama Advan Neova/Yokohama Advan A048/Toyo Proxes RA1


Exterior

Racing Hart M35 Rims
Veilside Front Bumper
VeilSide Side Skirts
Carcept Rear Bumper
VeilSide Rear Wing


Interior

Blitz DC & BL Series Guages
Greddy Air/Fuel Gauge Kit w/ Heated 02 Sensor (16000811) http://www.turboimports.com/gredairgaugk.html
Blitz TURBO TIMER- DTT DC II
Sparco Seats
Momo Steering Wheel

Links Page

http://www.northwestern.toyota.co.nz

http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/engine.html

http://www.hksusa.com
By phone: (310) 491 3300 - M thru F 8am-5pm PST
By mail: HKS USA -13401 S. Main Street -Los Angeles, CA 90061

http://www.apexi.com

A'PEX Integration, Inc.
330 W. Taft
Orange, CA 92865

(714) 685-5700 Phone
(714) 685-5701 Fax

Business Hours
Monday - Friday
9:00a.m. - 6:00p.m. PST


http://www.motec.com

West Coast
5355 Industrial Drive
Huntington Beach, CA
92649

Tel: (714) 897-6804
Fax: (714) 897-8782

info@motec.com
East Coast
169-2 Gasoline Alley
Mooresville, NC
28117

Tel: (704) 799-3800
Fax: (704) 799-3874
Jay Caldwell jay@motec.com


http://electromotive-inc.com
9131 Centreville Road
Manassas, Virginia
20110
Phone: 703 331-0100
Fax: 703 331-0161
Hours:
Monday to Friday 9:00am to 5:00pm Eastern Time
http://www.autronic.com

Phone International (61) 7 4051 6672
Fax International (61) 7 4051 3683

Phone 07 4051 6672
Fax 07 4051 3683

Email info@autronic.com

http://www.junusa.com
http://www.junauto.co.jp/index-e.html

info@junauto.co.jp

PHONE
81-3-3920-4165
FACSIMILE
81-3-3594-2689


http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...lp=ja_en&tt=url http://www.potenza.jp


http://www.bridgestone.com


http://www.yokohamatire.com

1-800-722-9888Yokohama Tire Corporation
601 S. Acacia Avenue
Fullerton, CA 92831


http://www.toyo.com http://www.toyoracing.com/TireInfo/RA1_tires.asp

West Coast: 800-442-8696 (8:00am to 4:45pm PST)
East Coast: 888-444-8696 (8:00am to 4:45pm EST)


http://www.blitz-na.com

Blitz North America, Inc.
4879 East La Palma Avenue Suite 201-202
Anaheim CA 92807, U.S.A

(714) 777-9766 Phone
(714) 777-9763 Fax
Business Hours
Monday - Friday
9:00a.m. - 6:00p.m. PST

Email Us: Info@blitz-na.com


http://www.veilside.com

Veilside USA
1250 East 223rd. Street
Suite 105 Carson, CA 90745
Phone: (310) 835-5684
Fax: (310) 835-5682
General/Product Info: info@veilside.com


http://www.kaazusa.com

Newport Exotic Cars
935-A Sunset Drive
Costa Mesa, California 92627 USA
phone (949) 631-0990,
fax (949) 631-0909
newportcars@kaazusa.com


http://www.jic-magic.com

ZIEL MOTORSPORTS / JIC USA
12229 Woodruff Ave.
Downey, Ca. 90241
Tel: 562-803-6122
Fax: 562-803-5012

info@jic-magic.com

http://www.todaracing.com

Official North American Distributor
AKH Trading
192 Technology Drive, Suite V
Irvine, CA 92618 USA
Tel: 949-450-1056
Fax: 949-450-1059
E-mail: toda@todaracing.com


http://www.kumhotire.com


http://www.sparcousa.com

Sparco Motor Sports Inc.
1852 Kaiser Ave.
Irvine, CA 92614
No 1 in The WORLD
Tel. 800-224-RACE
Fax. 949-797-1755
info@sparcousa.com


http://www.carcept.com


http://www.trdracing.com

Contact Jay Marks Toyota Parts
1 (800) 327-2087
parts@trdracing.com


http://www.trdusa.com


http://www.trdsportparts.com/

1-800-688-5913
http://www.momo.it

MOMO U.S.A.
Inc. 25471 Arctic Ocean Dr.
Lake Forest,California 92630 U.S.A.
Phone (949)380-7556
Fax (949)380-7256


http://www.rceng.com

1728 Border Ave
Torrance, CA. 90501

Phone (310) 320-2277
Fax (310) 782-1346


http://www.racinghart.com

Dazz Motorsport
5121 Commerce Drive
Baldwin Park, CA 91706-1451

Telephone: (626) 962-0033
Fax: (626) 962-3330


http://www.ozwheels.com

O.Z America Inc.
7500 NW 25th St. Unit # A4
Miami, FL 33122
ph 305.471.0042
fax 305.471.7552

info@ozwheels.com

For the nearest O.Z racing distributor dial 1.888.OZracing (697.2246)


http://www.c-one.co.jp


http://www.tein.com
TEIN U.S.A.,inc.
7631 Somerset Blvd Paramount CA 90723
PHONE:1-562-633-7387
FAX:1-562-633-7291

http://www.eibach.com

http://www.ground-control.com
(530) 677-8600


http://www.greddy.com

info@greddy.com


http://www.cartech.net

http://www.fensport.co.uk

FENSPORT
8 DOCK ROAD
CHATTERIS
CAMBS
PE16 6RE
ENGLAND

Tel: +44 (0) 1354 696968 or +44 (0) 7000 336776
FAX: +44 (0) 1354 696973

SALES@fensport.co.uk

http://www.gtechpro.com

Tesla Electronics
1749 14th Street
Santa Monica, CA 90404
(310) 452-0030
support@gtechpro.com


http://www.jarcoinc.com/

CANTON, GEORGIA
194 GATEWAY DRIVE
CANTON, GEORGIA 30115

Tel: 770.479.4942
Fax: 770.479.4948
Operator: James Stettler

info@jarcoinc.com
parts@jarcoinc.com
halfcuts@jarcoinc.com
specials@jarcoinc.com


TATEBAYASHI, JAPAN
1090-2 MUJINAZKI, ORA MACHI,
ORA GUN
GUNMA-KEN 370-0613, JAPAN

infojapan@jarcoinc.com
partsjapan@jarcoinc.com
halfcutsjapan@jarcoinc.com
specialsjapan@jarcoinc.com

http://www.aprperformance.com
APR Performance. Inc
15709 Arrow Highway Suite # 6
Irwindale, CA 91706
Phone: (626) 480-0090
Fax: (626) 480-0030
sales@aprperformance.com

http://www.jspamerica.com
sales@jspamerica.com
info@jspamerica.com
webmaster@jspamerica.com
To Order
1-716-871-1592
USA Head Office
JSP America Inc.
255 Cooper Ave., Suite 100
Tonawanda
NY 14150-6641
Tel: (716) 871-1592
Fax: (716) 871-0239
Canada
J.S. Parker International
4400 Montrose Rd., Units 2 & 3
Niagara Falls, Ont.
L2H 1K2
Tel: (905) 353-1356
Fax: (905) 358-5180

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 12, 2003 - 7:07 AM

[Guest_Matthew_*]

I am definitely not going to rush into this. I have had my 5S-FE out for a week now and the only new thing that I have intstalled is the C-One Coilover all around. Also the gt-4 front and rear axles, and brake assemblies. I am going to replace all the hoses, gaskets, brackets, etc, before I put the engine in. Also I would like to replace the cams, lifters, rods, pistons, head gasket, valve springs, and polish the cylinder walls themselves. That will be next week. Also do you have a part # for the HKS turbo manifold. And how would I reduce lag? Just by adding these parts: JUN SPROCKET (1033M-T702)
JUN CAMSHAFT KIT (1033M-T005)
JUN STROKER KIT (1029M-T003) That probably wouldn't reduce it all but it would help a lot right?

This post has been edited by igotta5S-FEturbo: Jan 18, 2003 - 6:15 PM

[NEVERSTOP]

QUOTE

But that would be nice to see 4bar spitting out of the barrel as the car melt its tires into the pavement and the turbo sky rocketted 1000feet, leaving an expression of ecstacy on the drivers face

lol that would be soooo worth it!!!

[west_minist]

QUOTE (igotta5S-FEturbo @ Jan 18 2003, 07:13 PM)

# for the HKS turbo manifold.  And how would I reduce lag?  Just by adding these parts: JUN SPROCKET (1033M-T702) JUN CAMSHAFT KIT (1033M-T005) JUN STROKER KIT (1029M-T003)  That probably wouldn't reduce it all but it would help a lot right?

Those mods will allow more air to flow into the big turbo.

You will move from a 2.0l to 2.2l engine with 264+ degree cams allowing more air into the cyclinder, allowing the engine to breath better. You should stay below 272 degree cams for streetability.

In all, your engine will be moving more air, more energy. >>> better turbo spool up.

What is your application? Street, Street/race, little street/alot of Race?

Please check out JUN for the kits.

Kits provides:-

JUN STROKER KIT (1029M-T003) 87.0x92.0mm contains:
http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinder...t/index.html?en

FULL COUNTER CRANKSHAFT 1
JUN'S SUPER PISTON KIT 1 SET
JUN'S SUPER CONNECTING RODS 1 SET


JUN CAMSHAFT KIT (1033M-T005) contains:
http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinder...t/index.html?en

STAGE 2

CAMSHAFT 1 SET
RACING VALVE SPRING 1 SET
TITANIUM VALVE RETAINER 1 SET


JUN Racing Valve Guide (1008M-T002)

All that you have to worry about is the vavles which can be provided by Fearra

Do a search on a TRD turbo manifold for the 3sgte. Your manifold outlet might change depending on the turbo exhaust housing intake.

Also, please recheck my post below with part #'s updates for some important stuff

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 12, 2003 - 7:05 AM

[Guest_Matthew_*]

my application is a lot of street a little race, BUT I hate it when the souped up firebirds and camaros and vettes around here pass me on the interstate when I go to work and even with the turbo I get beaten. So I need something that will anialate all. Civics and integras are no problem now but I gotta beat the V8. I checked out the JUN website and placed an order for the camshaft stage 2 kit. What are those things that are in the option thing? Oh, and I almost forgot what is the best clutch that I should get? ACT or centerforce? Or neither. West minst you are a pretty smart guy and thanks for all of your help.


Matt

[west_minist]

Heres go.

Trek sits behind his wheel waiting for it to all happen.

He peers at the line in the distance, what a quater!

He settled into the seat as his hands grips the wheel while his eye focus on the treeek faced before him.

His heart rotates around the confine limits of its quarters.

His chest rises as he tunnelled his vision sets to the green lanterns.

With a rush, his A/F when rich!

His boost at 2.

Without warning, he shifts to 2nd. His eyes wide open; not wanting to blink

100feet out of the locks, he see nothing as a flame shootup. High up.

All around him is fire as he is stuck deep into his seat with no back.

A light flashing before him. Beep, beeep, beeeep, beeeeeeep 4bar!!

[west_minist]

QUOTE (igotta5S-FEturbo @ Jan 19 2003, 01:05 AM)

my application is a lot of street a little race,  BUT I hate it when the souped up firebirds and camaros and vettes around here pass me on the interstate when I go to work and even with the turbo I get beaten.  So I need something that will anialate all.  Civics and integras are no problem now but I gotta beat the V8.  I checked out the JUN website and placed an order for the camshaft stage 2 kit.  What are those things that are in the option thing?  Oh, and I almost forgot what is the best clutch that I should get?  ACT or centerforce?  Or neither.  West minst you are a pretty smart guy and thanks for all of your help. Matt

Matt? you must read everything.

Are you changing your computer or are you going piggy back?

If piggy back, you will need the HKS VPC to change to speed density since you maybe using 272 degree cams.

I think that it is better to go with a motec 48 or a Autronic SM2. Check my link paths on this page and review both products. It is better to go with them than with all the piggy backs which will cost the same money, but hard to use since you have more than one device to change parameters.

All parameters can be control with these computers via a laptop under the seat.

The option is for the cam gear. You have either the option to get the JUN or HKS cam gears or sprockets as they are named. I like the HKS cam sprocket over JUN, but JUN looks lighter.

The kit you order contains which cams? 264 or 272 degree cams?

Will you order Stroker kit and the Valve guide kit?

You have a number of choices for the clutch. Check my mod list posted before.

You should have a list of all what you need, part numbers, where you going to by them and so on.

TRD, Toda Racing, HKS, JUN, ACT, Centerforce can be use for your clutch. Just chose one on quality and price. But you have to verify each manufacture if there have a clutch for the Celica GTFour. It maybe possible that a MR2 clutch can fit the GTfour but I do not know since one the MR2 is RWD while the GTFOUR is AWD.

Also, the 90-94 GTFOUR transmission might be the same. Check this out with NEVERSTOP or any other person.

TRD should definately have one. Checkout http://www.fensport.co.uk/partsfiles/st205clutch.htm for clutch kit

Are you using a carbon fibre drive shaft for the rear axle?

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 12, 2003 - 7:07 AM

[Charlie97L]

i think that this topic should be renamed. i had the impression upon entering it that it was going to be a discussion of 7afte or 5sfte, not building up a 3sgte.

also, i fail to see how an Apexi rev/speed meter (among other things) are a required part for a turbo project. that doesn't do anything other than display status information.

sorry, i'm not attacking anyone, i just don't see how a laundry list of 3sgte parts is going to help anyone get together a "Do-IT-Youself" turbo project.

[west_minist]

QUOTE (Charlie97L @ Jan 19 2003, 01:01 PM)

i think that this topic should be renamed. i had the impression upon entering it that it was going to be a discussion of 7afte or 5sfte, not building up a 3sgte. also, i fail to see how an Apexi rev/speed meter (among other things) are a required part for a turbo project. that doesn't do anything other than display status information. sorry, i'm not attacking anyone, i just don't see how a laundry list of 3sgte parts is going to help anyone get together a "Do-IT-Youself" turbo project.

The first pag is strictly for any vehicle since it have some major parts added for turbocharging any vehicle.

If you have continue to read the pages, you would see that it is not for the faint hearted unless you took your car to a shop.

I am amaze each time when someone who have ideas about turbocharging their ride do not know the reason why.

All that you hear is "do I really need that", "what is that for", "why"

Come on people. This is not to affend anyone.

It is easier to find GT & ST parts than for the 3SGTE parts. eg, clutch and so forth.

One last question for you Charlie97L, are you one of those person who does things without knowing what the result would be? In other words, just do?

it will be nice to here your input.

[Mynzeyes]

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 19 2003, 11:23 AM)

QUOTE (Charlie97L @ Jan 19 2003, 01:01 PM) i think that this topic should be renamed.  i had the impression upon entering it that it was going to be a discussion of 7afte or 5sfte, not building up a 3sgte. also, i fail to see how an Apexi rev/speed meter (among other things) are a required part for a turbo project.  that doesn't do anything other than display status information. sorry, i'm not attacking anyone, i just don't see how a laundry list of 3sgte parts is going to help anyone get together a "Do-IT-Youself" turbo project. The first pag is strictly for any vehicle since it have some major parts added for turbocharging any vehicle. If you have continue to read the pages, you would see that it is not for the faint hearted unless you took your car to a shop. I am amaze each time when someone who have ideas about turbocharging their ride do not know the reason why. All that you hear is "do I really need that", "what is that for", "why" Come on people. This is not to affend anyone. It is easier to find GT & ST parts than for the 3SGTE parts. eg, clutch and so forth. One last question for you Charlie97L, are you one of those person who does things without knowing what the result would be? In other words, just do? it will be nice to here your input.

i wouldn't call charlie out...he knows his shxt west...i wouldn't fxck w/ him...just my .02cents. i talk to him on AIM all the time, and he's who i go to for most questions when there's somethin complicated i can't figure out. he was in the process of building a 7agte, and yes, he knew why and what to do...so think before you call some people out.
-John-

[Charlie97L]

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 19 2003, 10:23 AM)

One last question for you Charlie97L, are you one of those person who does things without knowing  what the result would be? In other words, just do? it will be nice to here your input.

no, not at all, i alwasy exhaustively research every mod i do to my car before attempting it. i totally respect the work you are doing and the information you are giving, and i understand your points about the parts, they are all very good ones and you obviously know what you are talking about.

my point was that not everyone needs a 700 HP celica... it IS very tempting, and a hell of a project, but I think that most people looking for a turbo project just want some more oomph. i mean, look at me, I just want like 200 ish HP... that's all, I want to continue to drive my celica every day, i'm never going to race it. i just want it to be a little sportier, and be able to hang with GT-Ss, GS-Rs, etc. and really back up the sporty look we have on our cars.

i wasn't dismissing your post in any way, i just said that the title was misleading, and after further reading your stuff, i realized (DOH!) that you weren't implying the Rev/Speed meter and other stuff was necessary, just outlining all the available options for your car... so i most definitely concede that point.

so basically, my point is, i was just saying the subject heading was a tad misleading... it's totally fine, i was just making an observation. and i guess what i would really like is a good simple list of what the bare minimum is to turbo your car. i know many people would like this info, and i'm probably going to start a new topic, and i would love for you to contribute to that.

also, i have to say, i really enjoy the debates that go on over here on 6gc.net ... celica.net has lost some of that good discussion somewhere.

This post has been edited by Charlie97L: Jan 19, 2003 - 2:19 PM

[west_minist]

Understand.

My aim wasn't to concentrate on the 3sgte by who ever comes, I answer.

As you can see, they is no one asking questions about the 5sfe or any other engine.

I agree on the 700HP after a request, but my first post tops it al for a simple setup.

I was ask for 500+ and I supplied info to that request.

No prob. I would love to contribute to your post. just drop me a person mail and I will see what I can add to it.

How is you 4AFTE going? Any oil temperature or leaking problems? how is the a/f going?

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 9, 2003 - 8:24 PM

[west_minist]

QUOTE (Charlie97L @ Jan 19 2003, 01:01 PM)

i think that this topic should be renamed.  i had the impression upon entering it that it was going to be a discussion of 7afte or 5sfte, not building up a 3sgte. Sorry, i'm not attacking anyone, i just don't see how a laundry list of 3sgte parts is going to help anyone get together a "Do-IT-Youself" turbo project.

Charlie!

Please do not forget that the celica carries other engines beside the 7A & 5S.

Also, from my opinion here, alot of guys do not even know what part to get or parts they need.

You maybe right on the subject.

I believe a detail description is need now on setting up the stuff on the car.

The name is already there. Do you think we should start a write up now on how to do it?

There are so many 3SGTE post on the site.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jan 19, 2003 - 3:27 PM

[Charlie97L]

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 19 2003, 01:07 PM)

No prob. I would love to contribute to your post. just drop me a person mail and I will see what I can add to it. How is you 4AFTE going? Any oil temperature or leaking problems? how is the a/f going?

actually, right now, i'm workin on a 7afte, turbocharging the ST engine in my 97. i decided to wait on a swap because my current engine only has 68K on it. so, i'm going to start on this as soon as i can get the $$ together, and i'm going to see what i can do about doing a writeup on it.

i don't anticipate any leakage problems with the turbo setup. i am planning on getting a SAFC and setting back my timing 5 degrees to help with the a/f ratios.... so we'll see how that goes. i'm going to start the thread tomorrow, and anyone who has any ideas should definitely check it out.

[west_minist]

What you you thread be?

Turbocharging a 7AFE?

I think we should sub topic on this present thread insstead of creating a new one.

You write up can be the mail topic while all of page 1 & 2 can be a sub topic.

What do you think.

You see, I can say what to do, but to what level.

eg. how to make a turbo manifold from scratch or just put together a manifold, allow it to have some room without sharp bends?

Look forward to your response.

[west_minist]

QUOTE (Charlie97L @ Jan 19 2003, 05:35 PM)

actually, right now, i'm workin on a 7afte, turbocharging the ST engine in my 97. i decided to wait on a swap because my current engine only has 68K on it. so, i'm going to start on this as soon as i can get the $$ together, and i'm going to see what i can do about doing a writeup on it.

Great. Nice start.

Are you going to pull tractors? :p

That is going to be alot of torque :D

Oh sorry. 7A 1.8l.

Any reason for not using 5S :confused:

what hp are you aiming for? 200-220HP

How much money are you going to spend in total? 3K including APEX SAFC?

[Charlie97L]

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 19 2003, 03:17 PM)

That is going to be alot of torque Oh sorry. 7A 1.8l. Any reason for not using 5S what hp are you aiming for? 200-220HP How much money are you going to spend in total? 3K including APEX SAFC?

i'm not using the 5sfe because (unfortunately) i have an ST Celica, which has the 1.8L 7afe. i'm aiming for about 200 HP. i'm probably going to spend about 2500 on my version, but i'm going to suggest the least expensive way to go in my writeup.

[west_minist]

QUOTE (Charlie97L @ Jan 19 2003, 07:03 PM)

i'm not using the 5sfe because (unfortunately) i have an ST Celica, which has the 1.8L 7afe.  i'm aiming for about 200 HP.  i'm probably going to spend about 2500 on my version, but i'm going to suggest the least expensive way to go in my writeup.

Ok. But I do not understand.

You are replacing your engine. Why not get the 5S?

7A is about 105HP w/116Lb.Ft.

What size injectors do you have?

Ok. Check out the Apex S-AVC & S-AFC controllers for your boost and Fuel requirement.

If not, just use a TRD/HKS Fuel Pressure regulator and adjust the AIR Flow meter or throttle sensor for more fuel.

Add a <$300 Crane Cam HI6TRC to your setup with either a Nology M80 coil or w/ Cranecam LX92 coil for more spark power.

All you need to do now is to get the manifold, position right and run piping and oil. AND, what intercooler are you going to use? Can you get an OEM inter. from some other car dealer?

Is your suspension up to that power?

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jan 19, 2003 - 6:55 PM

[Charlie97L]

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 19 2003, 04:36 PM)

You are replacing your engine. Why not get the 5S? What size injectors do you have? AND, what intercooler are you going to use? Is your suspension up to that power?

see, i'm not replacing my engine i'm adding a turbo to it... i WAS going to swap, but my plans chaged... sorry about the confusion.

i'm going to use 440cc injectors from an MR2 turbo, and i will definitely check out the ignition stuff you suggested.

i'm getting a custom intercooler from one of the guys on celica.net

my suspension is definitely up to the power, i have it almost maxed out. i'm running koni yellows, trd spring, ST sway bars, JSpeed Front Strut Brace, and a Cusco OS Rear Strut Brace.

[west_minist]

Sounds good.

What turbo are you going to use? CT20?

Do you have a camera? Take some test runs and post the mpegs.

Ok. I look forward to your new post.

[Charlie97L]

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 19 2003, 05:17 PM)

What turbo are you going to use? CT20? Do you have a camera? Take some test runs and post the mpegs.

i'm going to use a t3/t4 turbo, not sure of what housing size i'm getting yet.

i do have a digi cam and as soon as i start getting parts in i will take plenty of pictures

[FallenHero]

I have about 95k miles on my 7a. Will low boost blow it to hell?

[Charlie97L]

QUOTE (FallenHero @ Jan 19 2003, 09:56 PM)

I have about 95k miles on my 7a. Will low boost blow it to hell?

nah, just run a compression test... boost will make the engine wear much faster, but you should be fine, i think.

[west_minist]

QUOTE (FallenHero @ Jan 20 2003, 12:56 AM)

I have about 95k miles on my 7a. Will low boost blow it to hell?

Also, because you might have that high mileage, it does not mean that your engine is completely wear out.

If you service your vehic every 3-6 months, you are actually putting back life into the engine.

[west_minist]

I will try to keep it cheap as possible. But please remember that in the long run, cheapnest makes you spend money. We all like the rising HP, but hates replacing.

I will also keep the job as simple as possible.

I have never turbocharge a celica, but have over-veiw such projects on the 4AFE, 4AGE, 4AGE 20v silver top.

I have a few friends here with 6gen celica and I almost purchase one myself, but decided to wait until the end of this year to import one from Japan.

I have view the engine bay of both AS/NA models, which shows more space for turbocharging than the other toyota models we have work with using the 4A engines.

To some point, turbocharging is turbocharging. Some projects are unique but once you have the will, there is a way.

Charlie97L will be doing a similar how-to for the main 6gc.net which will finish over time. He have posted a couple queries to me which I have reply and accepted. I therefore will add (including other) any content that will help him in his project.

Either way, that will take some time and here is my write up.

All products comes with detail manuals on how to set them up. E.g, Apex'i.

I see no need to rewrite what are in those documents.

Almost all manufactures have their documentation online.

My main right up will be installing the turbo and tuning after installing.

Please remember that almost all of the manufacture listed in this post have their documentation on line. Please make reference to them.

The final how to on this document will appear as a colaborate effort on everyone part, including Charlie97L who will be the main contributor, currently turbocharging his 7AFE.

Please check my first post for parts need.

I will also be assuming that your car is very standard at this point. I.e, just purchase from the car lot.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


1) We will lower the car by 1" to 2". We can either use Eibach ProKit or SportLine spring or some coilover like GroundControl with some adjustable Koni or KYB shock.

I mention adjustable here to set a ride comfort level. Also, remember to check your camber.

Also, if you want to, upgrade you brake rotors since there will not be able to hard the excessive braking that might be require after turbocharging. This is a warning!

2) We will apply some bracing to the structure to prevent twisting and flexing in the car body, thereby allowing better control in braking, cornering and sudden torque stresses from launching.

Such bracing includes Strut Tower brace, Rear stabilizing brace, Anti-Roll Bars, Lower Frame Brace.

3) If you stick with your standard rims, still purchase good rubber for your rim. Check out http://www.tirerack.com for the best Ultra or MAX Performance tire for your ride. Not listed there is the Toyo Proxes T1-S.

Tire Survey
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp

Ultra High Performance Tires
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/uhp.jsp

Max Performance Tires
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/max.jsp

4) Gauge setup. You can get a number of gauges from Autometer or from some other manufacture.

You will need an Air/Fuel ratio, boost, temperature and pressure gauge. There are all important; making sure that you do not destroy your engine.

Refer to manufacture for setting up of there gauges


5) What we do from here now is to tune the car. This will show you how lame stock can be.

6) In this tuning, we will select a nice turbo exhaust using a custom 2.5” – 3.0” piping. Also get a good air filter from companies like K&N, Ractive and so on.

7) Install a good Adjustable fuel pressure regulator w/ a gauge (optional but need to see what your fuel pressure is set at and to see if you fuel system can handle the high fuel flow need after turbocharging.)

You will be using the A-FPR to supply more fuel to the injectors, thereby reducing the duty cycle on the injector when you need more fuel to make more power and have a proper fuel-air mixture after turbocharging.

8) Install some nice Platinum, Iridium or any racing plugs from manufacture like NGK, Nippon, etc.


9) Start the car and check you A/F gauge. Increase the fuel pressure using the FPR. Make a note on the reading display by the fuel gauge meter. Listen to how the car is idling. We do not want the car to sound lumpy, as this is wasting fuel and causing pollution. Check the Autometer or the A/F meter for how rich or lean the car is.

Test drive the car and the your keep eye on the A/F meter. Keep from using full throttle opening since the meter will not read properly. We want the reading to be in the range stoichiometric range (yellow lights into green) or just a little rich (into few green lights).

Must read http://www.autometer.com/hp/index.html

Check for the best time it take to reach 100km/h or some measurement to see what your best A/F would be for your driving style.

10) After running the previous test, let us now advance the timing. You will need a timing light. Read through your Celica Repair or Workshop manual (by this time you should have one. You will need it later) on how to do this. (You will have the turn the distributor clockwise/anticlockwise [on some models beside toyota] after slacking it off)

Adjust you timing by every 2 degree. Listen for pinging (sound like little hammers hitting on a piece of block metal)

Tests drive the car again and listen for the pinging sound under normal and hard acceleration. When successful, push the timing up again (by 2 degree). Run the same test again. If you start to here the pinging sound (for Air Flow meter people) adjust your AFM a/f screw. Otherwise, increase you fuel press until you get rid of the sound.

Please remember that you must meet a balance between A/F and timing.

Test drive one last time to make sure everything is good.

Your car should now feel very fast and capable.

You can also use the Btilz Power Meter i-D http://www.blitz-na.com/PM_ID.htm OR the G-TECH/Pro Competition http://www.gtechpro.com Monitoring tool.

Apex Speed/Rev Meter can also do this job

Please note that this highly advance timing will be reduce when you go turbocharged [/color][/b]

(Optional) This maybe a good time to invest in a Cranecams or MSD ignition controller with a timing control. Once attained, you can reset you timing to 0 and use the ignition controller timing module to control your timing from the cockpit.

11) Next:- turbocharge the engine now.



Turbocharging

1) Since we are dealing with 1800cc + engines, try to stay away from 1600cc turbos.

You can either go with a Toyota CT20B Turbo, but it would be better to use the CT26 turbo. If not pickup a Garret or a HKS
GT-SS or the GT2510 or GT2530 or some other OEM turbo from out of some vehicle doing 200+ HP and less than 280HP(your choice) for a car over 1800cc. All of then should have an internal wastegate. The aim here is to run low boost by default, without using a boost controller

The GT-SS & the GT2530 is the same turbo except the 2530 have a bigger
Compressor wheel.
http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=703

You can also safely go up to GT-RS if you want to. This depends on your aim and future HP.

2) I recommend we run a low boost level. Let say anyway between 3-8psi since we are below 11:1 compression on the engine and also playing it safe. If above 11:1, 6psi will be good.

3) The gauges mentioned before really comes into play here.

We will need to keep our eye on the oil pressure and temperature, engine temperature, boost, Air Fuel ratio and others.

Turbocharged engines are highly stress engines.

Make sure your oil and water pumps are good.

High oil temperatures are not good. Once pass the manufacture recommendations, the oil loses its ability to lubricate. You know what happens next??? The engine will KNOCK; cease up or whatever you want to call it.

So take these warnings VERY serious. Ok?


4) Depending on your turbo exhaust housing inlet, you maybe able to buy a turbo manifold or build one. Position your turbo to see the best location to place it.

Remember the exhaust housing will get very hot, so give it enough room from the engine and radiator or whatever else. Also try to keep it away from the oil filter.

If possible, you should try to possible the turbo as close as possible to the header outlet form the engine. Also from to added bends going the same direction as all the others. This will alleviate stress on custom manifold itself.

Give http://www.burnsstainless.com a call if you want a customer manifold build by experts.

5) You will have to get a shop or a friend to weld up a manifold for you from pipes of angular cast iron/stainless steel pipes. Allow these pipes to converge into collector since the HKS GT-SS & GT2510 have one entry.

Try to keep each pipe equal lengths or multiple path lengths coming from the engine exhaust outlets. E.g. 1-4 2-3

6) Put back a new manifold gasket if your old one is going. If you like, you might need to use 2 gaskets depending on how flat your customized header backplane is.

You will also need some turbo gasket accessories from any aftermarket store which sells turbos or different types of high temperature gaskets used on engine etc.

Main: http://www.hksusa.com/categories/?id=1088

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=833
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=836


7) Attach the turbo manifold (header) to the engine and then to the turbo. If the turbo comes with a proper manual, check the torque setting for bolting up.

8) The next step involves attaching the oil line to and from the turbo.

9) Look for the oil pressure gauge sensor. Check your Car Repair Manual for this.

Use a T connection to supply the oil to the turbo and also to the pressure gauge sensor. To the turbo, use a steel braided line.

The out line or the (return line) coming from the turbo would flow through a braided steel line to the sump. You will have to drill a hole in the sump and use a connection so that it will connect to the braided line. The sump connection has to be braced.

10) Once finish, the next step is to connect the turbo exhaust outlet to the exhaust.

The pipe coming from the turbo exhaust outlet will most probably not line up with the original exhaust piping. To connect both exhaust a nice curve pipe through an exhaust flex housing to the pipe carrying your exhaust.

11) Next step involves running the pressurize air carrying pipes from the turbo to the intake manifold on the engine.

You will need a flex pipe to measure angles and lengths to custom cut your pipes.

If you have an eye for angles and lengths, you will need some angular pipes and a hand for welding.

Attach the piping to the turbo, intercooler (installed in the bumper) and intake manifold using silicon sleeves. Where the silicon sleeves goes over the pipe, should be mark for abrasion. This will stop the sleeves from sliding of.

12) Pick a nice location for your BOV and install it there. Again, it will have to be braced.

13) From off that same tubular pipe, you also need an outlet to take your boost reading off. This is where you attach you Boost gauge sensor.

This can be near where you install the BOV.

14) On the compressor side of the turbo, you will see a very small outlet. Also, on the wastegate controller (a big bulb carrying a lever), you will see a similar configuration. Attached a piece of pressure hose joining both the outlet and the inlet.


Check over

Check to make sure that your fluids are up. E.g., oil, brake, coolant

Check and make sure that the oil lines run to and from the turbo have good connection and torque properly.

Make sure the oil return line to the sump is connected properly and brace in to the sump.

Make sure that the oil line coming from the Oil pressure sensor is fitted and connected well.

Make sure that the turbo manifold is bolted and mate properly to the engine and turbo.

Also check the hose running from the compressor housing to the wastegate controller.

Make sure that the BOV is installed correctly and the boost gauge sensor hose is connected.



Time to start

In this section, we are only going to start the car to test the installation. So no revving or moving the vehicle

1. Reset your timing back to 0 degrees.

2. If you like, remove the intake pipe to the intake manifold.

3. Start the car. Listens to how it idles. It should idle normal.

4. Check for oil leaks around the t connection where the oil pressure sensor is, around the turbo and also the sump.

5. Rev the engine over 1K rpm but less than 4K rpm.

Check for any oil leaks

6. Allow the engine to idle and run periodically. Keep on checking oil leak and exhaust leaks. You should not have any black marks around the turbo manifold and exhaust housing.

7. If you feel very confident that everything is good, it is time to more on to the testing the turbo charger. Turn the car OFF

In you first tuning, you should have a good idea on how your engine performs when rev. You will be looking to see how fast it revs and lean and rich spots in the the rpm range.

8. Connect the turbo intake pipe back on to the intake manifold.

9. Start the car with your eye on the boost controller. It should read just above 0psi or 1. It is fairly had to say what it will read due to the side of your turbo and engine configurations. Eg, 7AFE, 5SFE, 3SGE

10. Check for any leakage in the intake pipe of the pipes running from the turbo compressor outlet to the intake manifold.

11. Listen to the car. It should sound slightly different. It should sound a little heavier and the exhaust should sound like it is blowing more air.

12. Good. Rev the car slowly to 2K rpm and check your gauges, especially the boost.

As mention above, you do not want the boost to go over 8psi or have big low spikes over 8psi

13. Check again for any oil leakage

14. Rev the car to 3500 rpm slowly. You should be near or getting very close to the point where the turbo is now starting to spool up efficiently.

15. Check you boost gauge, oil connections and turbo pressurize piping from the turbo to the intake manifold.

16. Also, keep your eye on the A/F meter. For safety, the meter should be in the rich range.

17. Rev the car from idle to 4000rpm and back of. Note the gauges. If would be nice here to have some replay gauges like from Greddy HKS or Blitz.

18. Rev a couple of times repeatedly to see how the A/F and Boost are behaving. Remember, you want less than 8psi.

19. Here is what you were waiting on. Be careful at this point. I would advice here, if I have started it before, new engine oil and oil level reading at high.

20. Rev the engine slowly to the ¼ of the redline.

21. Note A/f & boost gauge. Adjust the BOV to relieve the pressure building up in the intake pipes. You do not want to relieve all of the pressure.

22. From idle again, rev to ½ of the redline. Repeat list 21.

23. Rev to ¾ of the redline. Repeat list 21.

24. Rev to full rpm limit. Repeat list 21.

25. Check for oil leakage and intake air leakage.

26. Check engine temperatures or all temperatures.

27. If you are running a little lean, adjust you fuel pressure regulator. To have the car running slightly rich at high rpm, since this maybe where you would be from now.

28. If you find that the boost is too high or to low, you will have to buy a manual boost controller. Greddy, APEXI are a few examples.

29. Test drive the car. Try not to abuse the engine and turbo. Take your time.

30. After a couple of hours of testing, you can advance the timing by 2 degree. Check for pinging. In you checks, you will be driving the car.

31. If emissions are a problem balance the timing and the fuel to the engine.

32. Increase the timing by 2 degrees each time after verifying no pining under hard acceleration in all gears.

33. If pining does occur, try the increasing the Fuel pressure using the adjustable fuel regulator.


34. Continue to monitor your gauges and oil level frequently.

Best of luck to everyone.



This post has been edited by west_minist: Feb 1, 2003 - 10:44 PM

[rlan214]

more pls

[west_minist]

How do you find it?

What would you like to see from what you have just read?

Do you think I need to go in more pre-turbocharging section?

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jan 21, 2003 - 10:56 AM

[Aus]

The cost of turbocharging a NA celica is so much, is it not worth is to innvest a bit more to buy a GT4???

[west_minist]

QUOTE (Aus @ Jan 21 2003, 11:59 AM)

The cost of turbocharging a NA celica is so much, is it not worth is to innvest a bit more to buy a GT4???

No. It can be cheap.

But I find most of the time cheapnest end up making replace parts that could have been avoided.

This post was made to any car owner owning an engine.

In you case, you have 3SGE rate 170HP+. Everyone else have less than 165HP. So you are way in a better position than them with engine and also engine head. You head is a Performance head (G), while everyone else have a Economy head (F) and except GTFOURS since there carries the G in 3SGTE.

[Aus]

How cum you have this in USA??

[west_minist]

QUOTE (Aus @ Jan 21 2003, 12:10 PM)

How cum you have this in USA??

Have what?

I am in the Caribbean.

US never gets any good Japanese imports except for the New 2004 Subaru WRX!

[Aus]

i meant less power, sorry i thought u were from us!

didn't look at ur location!

This post has been edited by Aus: Jan 21, 2003 - 11:30 AM

[west_minist]

I do not know. That seems to be pretty normal for the USA.

I do not know if the Japs will show up US models.

It has been so for a very long time.

[west_minist]

As I continue to finished up this write up, does any one find the the big post up top helpful?

[3TST]

I personally found it very helpful.
Keep it up. Thanks.

BTW: US models are more restricted because of the emission laws.

[rlan214]

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 21 2003, 08:55 AM)

How do you find it? What would you like to see from what you have just read? Do you think I need to go in more pre-turbocharging section?

QUOTE

Do you think I need to go in more pre-turbocharging section?

Yes, that's the best part that what i think everybody needs to do weather or not they're going turbo or not

[rlan214]

4th page

[rlan214]

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 21 2003, 09:25 AM)

US never gets any good Japanese imports except for the New 2004 Subaru WRX!

our last resort has to be evo

[rlan214]

QUOTE (vphmc @ Jan 24 2003, 08:43 AM)

BTW: US models are more restricted because of the emission laws.

somebody told me that we are not just restricted cuz of emission but insurance company has this thing against import beast ...
import car's tend to be more expensive insurance resulting to few peeps buying em and then dicountinueing at least that's how someone told me in toyota dealer

[3TST]

Looks as if a Turbo kit for a 7A-FE may well be available soon.
Check out the following thread on celica.net:
http://celica.net/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?u...c;f=10;t=002830

[west_minist]

Yeah, the evo. I personally do not like them.

We have them here, even the the EVO VII from last year.

We particularly like the wrx.

USA insurance parts does not sound right.

I believe the thing is support the USA economy.

There are muscle car done there. Big manufactures would not want the import beast to show them up.

[west_minist]

QUOTE (rlan214 @ Jan 24 2003, 12:47 PM)

QUOTE (west_minist @ Jan 21 2003, 08:55 AM) How do you find it? What would you like to see from what you have just read? Do you think I need to go in more pre-turbocharging section? QUOTE Do you think I need to go in more pre-turbocharging section? Yes, that's the best part that what i think everybody needs to do weather or not they're going turbo or not

What more details would you like to see before I finish off that part?

You see, everyone where I live is very serious about engines.

So I personnally think that you must be aware of industry before you start buying part stupidly.

So to me, everything is clear.

[west_minist]

QUOTE (vphmc @ Jan 24 2003, 11:43 AM)

I personally found it very helpful. Keep it up. Thanks. BTW: US models are more restricted because of the emission laws.

Any thing that I can help you with before I move on?

[Jussimple]

I just have to say that this is the best thread I have ever seen any where for performance mods on 6th gens. west_minist I'm currently appling what I've learned here to my car. Hopefully you'll be around for awhile as alot of the guys on the site apply your knowledge. I don't know about everyone else but thanks for taking me out of the dark.

[west_minist]

If you have the money, buy the blitz Power Meter i-D http://www.blitz-na.com/PM_ID.htm OR the the G-TECH/Pro Competition http://www.gtechpro.com if you do not have a dyno in the area and a drag strip.

Blitz qoute:-

"The Power Meter i-D is a unique monitoring tool that measures and displays horsepower and speed. The Power Meteor i-D is one of the only units in the world that can display both standard and metric measurements. Power output can be display in HP, PS and kW. Speed can be displayed in MPH and km/h. Both power and speed can be displayed in digital and graphical form. The Power Meter id also has a Chassis Dynamo function, which plots Horsepower to Speed in a graph form."

G-TECH/Pro qoute:-

The new G-TECH/Pro Performance Meter COMPETITION is a very sophisticated, cutting edge automotive tuning instrument. Weather you want simple RPM recording or complete Data-Acquisition. As an automotive enthusiast you will find recording acceleration runs and analyzing shift points, delivered horsepower and reaction times extremely valuable. Just imagine, having all that power of knowledge right there under your fingertips any time you want it, that's the new G-TECH/Pro COMPETITION. So, no more confusion after making modifications now simply get the results "before and after".

Measurements:
Reaction-Time
0-60ft time
0-330ft time
0-60mph time
1/8mile E.T and speed
1000ft time
1/4 mile E.T. and speed
Horsepower
Torque
RPMs
Braking distance
Handling G's
Accelerating and Braking Gs
RPM vs Time Graph
HP & Torque vs RPM Graph
Speed vs Time Graph
Speed vs Distance
Gs vs Time Graph


This will help you to see what your new mods are doing.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 12, 2003 - 7:02 AM

[west_minist]

If anyone want to contact me by email, you can. I am seeing alot of view, but no replies.

Your reply does not have to advice, but a question that you may want answer, but do not want to post.

Either way, just drop me a line.

I am almost finish the turbo setup. Once finish, we are going for a test drive.

I look forward to some reviews in my inbox from everyone on this matter.

West

[west_minist]

Updates links page with http://www.northwestern.toyota.co.nz

[west_minist]

I am almost finish the right up. I have just change a few stuff and add a little more write up.

I should finish this on saturday.

[west_minist]

I am proud to announce that I have purchase the GTECH/PRO Competition Meter.

This meter is very good. After all, the pro's uses it.

It seems to be some what better that the Blitz Power ID meter(from manual).

I would advice any one to purchase this device to see how you car is performing.

I must advice you not to purchase this if you do not have intentions of tuning your car for more power.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 12, 2003 - 7:02 AM

[west_minist]

I am also please to note that I have finish the turbo write up.

It may need some tweaking.

This is the very first version of this write up.

More content will be added as there become available.

[west_minist]

Here is a very good link for the 3SGE & 3SGTE including swaps.

http://gtfour.supras.org.nz

[west_minist]

Do any one on the forum have close up pics on there engine including engine bay?

IF so, can you send them to me?

[west_minist]

Updated info thread with

http://www.jarcoinc.com/

JARCO product line includes performance half-cuts and hard-to-find used performance parts.

CANTON, GEORGIA
194 GATEWAY DRIVE
CANTON, GEORGIA 30115

Tel: 770.479.4942
Fax: 770.479.4948
Operator: James Stettler

info@jarcoinc.com
parts@jarcoinc.com
halfcuts@jarcoinc.com
specials@jarcoinc.com


TATEBAYASHI, JAPAN
1090-2 MUJINAZKI, ORA MACHI,
ORA GUN
GUNMA-KEN 370-0613, JAPAN

infojapan@jarcoinc.com
partsjapan@jarcoinc.com
halfcutsjapan@jarcoinc.com
specialsjapan@jarcoinc.com

This post has been edited by west_minist: Feb 14, 2003 - 7:39 PM

[west_minist]

Wings/Spoilers Update.

http://www.aprperformance.com
APR Performance. Inc
15709 Arrow Highway Suite # 6
Irwindale, CA 91706
Phone: (626) 480-0090
Fax: (626) 480-0030
sales@aprperformance.com


http://www.jspamerica.com
sales@jspamerica.com
info@jspamerica.com
webmaster@jspamerica.com
To Order
1-716-871-1592
USA Head Office
JSP America Inc.
255 Cooper Ave., Suite 100
Tonawanda
NY 14150-6641
Tel: (716) 871-1592
Fax: (716) 871-0239
Canada
J.S. Parker International
4400 Montrose Rd., Units 2 & 3
Niagara Falls, Ont.
L2H 1K2
Tel: (905) 353-1356
Fax: (905) 358-5180

This post has been edited by west_minist: Feb 14, 2003 - 7:41 PM

[west_minist]

Found this site in SCC magazine.

I like this site mostly for spoliers/wings.

MAd isn't it?

This wing can fit the celi very good. It is 63" / 1600mm wide.

Rotora Wing picture


Rotora: Prodigy of Performance
P.O. Box 5311
Hacienda Heights, CA. 91745
Toll-Free: 888.990.0899
Local: 626.369.0401

http://www.rotora.com

emails:
sales@rotora.com
tech@rotora.com
webmaster@rotora.com

[west_minist]

To those who want to do a swap using the 3SGTE.

A nice site to see how the 3SGTE works.

JGTC.NET

[west_minist]

Holley for all of your fuel requirements and more.
Also, you can get your oil coolers from Earl's Performance Products distributed by Holley
Contact Holley Tech Service at:
270) 781-9741, fax: (270) 781-9772

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 15, 2003 - 10:27 AM

[west_minist]

I have spoke to Extremeboost.com on my 3SGE + T engine if I decide to go ahead with my plans.

I am getting older now, more experience in my field and I am seeing myself save towards my land and house.

Either way, this may help you on getting your 3SGE up to spec.

Just a note here. You would be surprise how an a Good air filter, exhaust w/ 2.5" up to header + fuel enrichment+good racing plugs would have your car performing.

Try it and let me know what you think.

Sales & Customer Service :
Jeffrey Jeffrey@eXtremeBoost.com


Day Time 9am-9pm Contact # :
Jeffrey Burke (416) 991-8955

Emergency Phone Contact # :
Jeffrey Burke (905) 642-8955 (Leave Message)

Mailing Address :
eXtremeBoost.com
105 Nantucket Blvd.
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada
M1P 2N5

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 18, 2003 - 9:27 PM

[Guest_Matthew_*]

thanks for the info.



also do you know where i can get sway bars for gt-4 suspension?

This post has been edited by igotta5S-FEturbo: Mar 6, 2003 - 8:59 PM

[iamblades]

How the hell are you supposed to see out the back window with that spoiler?

As if the rear window wasnt hard enough to see anything out of in the first place.. More of a hatchback issue though.. :/

[Guest_Matthew_*]

look through the top and bottom

[iamblades]

With the size of a that wing, I'd imagine there isn't all that much 'top'.. hehehe

I'm just not wing-lover, IMO, unless you are racing a 150+ MPH dragster or a F1 car they are useless...

Most of them don't even look good, although that is opinion and I can't back it up

[west_minist]

QUOTE (igotta5S-FEturbo @ Mar 6, 2003 - 8:57 PM)

thanks for the info. also do you know where i can get sway bars for gt-4 suspension?

Check my links.

You have HKS, TRD and others there.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 9, 2003 - 8:20 PM

[west_minist]

Well, everyone have there opinion.

The new wings I posted very resently, are very good and have low drag. Also use in JGTC.

Have better connering, stability and straigh line performance.

If you want a show car, thats your choice. If you was perf. + stability, thats your choice.

Shut to hell up and keep those opinions to yourself.

If you have some to contribute, offer it, but leave the lame word to some other thread.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 9, 2003 - 8:21 PM

[west_minist]

This can be review at this thread: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=1685

New tire To the MAX Performance community.

This tire seems to have toppled the well know Bridgestone Potenza S03 Pole Position.

Will Bridgestone USA Request from Japan there new Potenza RE01 to battle against this? If I was them, I would unless some better is coming down the pipe line.

The new tire that I am talking about is the Pirelli PZero Nero.

http://www.us.pirelli.com/en_US/tyres/cata...&productid=8263

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...odel=PZero+Nero

It out performs the SO3 in Dry Traction, Wet Traction, Cornering Stability, Steering Response, Ride Comfort, Noise Comfort, Tread Wear.

News: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/max.jsp


Pirelli Tire NA LLC
country: United States
address: 100 Pirelli Drive Rome, Georgia 30161-7000
phone: 1-800-PIRELLI (800-747-3554) ;
fax: 1-706-368-5832
http://www.us.pirelli.com

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 9, 2003 - 8:21 PM

[west_minist]

Volk Racing Wheels

Rays Engineering

http://www.mackinindustries.com
http://www.rayswheels.com Please use the Japanese to English Translator @ http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr

Corporate Headquarters
9921 Jordan Circle
P.O. Box 4025
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
562.946.6820 Tel
562.944.7719 Fax

Online Marketing
Hiroshi Hamada Design Studio
13238 Florence Avenue
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
shop@mackinindustries.com

Japan Office
Kyo-Ei Industrial Corp.
1-13-21 Nishi-Shinsaibashi
Chuo-Ku, Osaka, Japan
06.6244.0321 Tel
06.6244.0395 Fax

This post has been edited by west_minist: Mar 15, 2003 - 10:58 AM

[west_minist]

This is a quote from Nitto site on a very new release tire.

http://www.nittotire.com

Competition Dot Radial

"The Nitto NT-555RII Extreme R road race and auto cross competition radial tire was developed through a unique fusion between a race circuit oriented stiff sidewall construction and the popular Nitto Drag Radial tread pattern. These features combined with the high traction, specially formulated soft racing tread compound resulted in a competition radial that exhibits impressive control and handling, to provide maximum traction under severe racing conditions. The Nitto NT-555RII is designed primarily for competition road racing. The sidewall construction is optimized for handling extreme lateral acceleration; vehicles may experience rougher riding when used for daily driving."'


Also, Michelin to my believe have a new tire also.
http://www.michelinman.com

Quote from TireRack:

"Developed for drivers who participate in autocross and track events, the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup is a DOT legal street competition radial that is designed to increase driving excitement by providing class winning traction and handling.

On the outside, the Pilot Sport Cup uses dual zone tread compounds with the outer shoulder compound optimized for dry handling and the inside shoulder compound focused on wet traction. These tread compounds are molded into a 6/32” deep asymmetric tread design that features a massive outer shoulder rib to further enhance steering response and cornering stability while circumferential grooves and independent tread blocks are used on the inner portion of the tread design to enhance damp track traction. Internally, the Pilot Sport Cup features two, full-width steel belts reinforced with Michelin’s Banded At Zero (BAZ) technology to stiffen the tread area to help prevent the contact area from distorting during aggressive acceleration, cornering and braking. The Pilot Sport Cup radial’s basic sidewall materials and architecture have been carried forward from Michelin’s Pilot Sport line of Max Performance tires.

Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires feature sidewall styling with subtle black letters. They are be available in selected 55-, 50-, 45-, 40-, 35- and 30-series, Y-speed rated sizes for 15", 16”, 17” and 18" wheel diameters."


http://www.goodyeartires.com/

The Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 also seems to be very well develop to take out the Bridgestone Potenza S03. This tire is getting very good reviews. But as always, the Potenza tires from bridgestone age with very little lost in grip.

Does Goodyear have that ability? There do not avertise it.

I do hope that Bridgestone comes with a new tire to compete again in the Max Performance tire arena

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 18, 2003 - 9:25 PM

[west_minist]

I was reading through the Super Street Magazine and came across this very good Gauge system.

To me, it is better that the Greddy, Apexi, HKS and Blitz.

The Gauge system that I am talking about is the Defi-Link System.

http://www.defi-shop.com/product/dl/dl_top.htm

This is a qote from there beautiful website.

"The Defi-Link system is a set of electronic gauges that can be mounted on the vehicle dashboard.

The design of this system allows each gauge to be attached to the control unit II with a single "DAISY CHAIN" wiring system.
Both meters and Control Unit II are equipped with microcomputers.. Distant meters can be operated at hand.

The system is also designed to allow all sensors to be attached to the control unit II, so that the gauges can be mounted separately without the need for multiple tubing or wiring to each gauge.

Available gauges are boost(for turbocharged and supercharged engines), intake manifold pressure(for natural aspirated engine), oil pressure, water temperature, oil temperature, fuel pressure, exhaust gas temperature and tachometer.

Driving data can be stored and can be replayed up to 3 minutes(*1). Pause, speed play, forward, and rewind function can be applied during playback.

Double Warning function by a meter's LED lamp and a beep(*2)

The switch panel is embossed and buzzer sounds by pushing the buttons.

The characters and the rings on the switch panel are illuminated in white at nighttime. It makes operation in the dark easy.

Defi-Link Indicator(sold separately) can be connected to M-WARNING connector. The indicator blinks when any of connected meters' warning LED light.

Differential pressure between fuel pressure and turbo can be shown if both of fuel pressure meter and turbo meter are installed.(*3)

UP to 7 gauges among from Defi-Link Meters and Defi-Link Meter BFs and Defi-Link Displays can be operated with one Control Unit II. Microcomputers are equipped with meters and Control Unit II. A distant meter can be operated at hand. DAISY CHAIN connection can not be applied to connect Defi-Link Meters and Defi-Link Meter BFs. Please refer to CONNECTION CAPACITY on the left.
"

If there are others out there that better this system, please dropped me a line.

Thanx

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 18, 2003 - 9:27 PM

[west_minist]

I just came across a tire from Japan to rival the Bridgestone Potenza RE01.

I must state that the RE01 have all of this technology from since 2000+

This new tire is the Yokoha Advan AD07

http://www.advan.com/product/f-set.html

I do not know if I stated this before, but there are only 2 tire rivals in Japan.

They are Yokohama Advan and Bridgestone Potenza

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 18, 2003 - 9:26 PM

[Guest_Matthew_*]

to bad i can't read japanese

[west_minist]

Here is the translation using http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr

Translation of the Details button for the AD07:






-Adding van * &#12493;&#12458;&#12496; * a D * zero NANA - pattern number: AD07 - steel belt radial - tubeless - tire for car

- High dry grip many the private compound which the harsh test repeatedly was developed new development tread pattern, actualizes the dry grip where the fighting &#12358; cAdvan is high.

-The high WET efficiency private compound pulled up also wet grip more, balance could point to dry & wet in the higher-order origin with the tuning of profile and structure.

-Not only the handling speed which makes the driver uplift, it pursues " the enjoyment which can send the car ". The NEOVA which designates the person whom it runs as that air traces the line which you aimed securely, grasps the road surface.

-This way furthermore in the customer - dry travelling efficiency and the wet travelling efficiency which are superior in the customer whom you seek at high level.
- In the customer who would like to taste the power efficiency of the advanced sport car freely.
-In the customer who would like to be leveled up from the DNA GP.

Because the ADVAN NEOVA AD07 has adopted directivity pattern, the case of installing the rotation mark which is carved to the side wall () in order for everything to become identical direction, please adjust to direction of rotation of the tire, install.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 8, 2003 - 8:09 PM

[west_minist]

For sometime, the Header topics keeps on popping up on the forum.

I will put this to rest if I can (and you have some money.)

I do not know how much it cost, but a small cost is well worth it from the experience.

Please use this link to you full and devoted HP advantage.

Reading pleasure: http://www.burnsstainless.com/TechArticles...ory/theory.html

Burns Stainless
http://www.burnsstainless.com
1013 W. 18th St.
Costa Mesa
Ca 92627

949-631-5120
vince@burnsstainless.com

This post has been edited by west_minist: Apr 28, 2003 - 9:04 PM

[west_minist]

Yesterday, I decided to change My 2 Front Toyo Proxes RA1 (185/13) to Bridgestone Potenza GIII 205/13

The RA1 is a racing tire and the GIII is a Sports Tire from Japan.

I cannot really compare the 2 models but I can tell you this, I love the GIII.

When it lets go, you can still feel grip and the noise is sweet. A grippy throaty sound. The toyo just feels like glass until grips takes over. This behaviour is the same on wet.

I have not drving it on the wet yet. But I can tell you for the little water that ran across the road, it handle it better that the RA1. I do not know if I had similar size if the GIII would be inferior.

You may ask why I change. Well when I brought the Bridgestone GR 50 S&S (185/13), I wanted more traction since this was a touring tire that had too much grip compare to the Toyo Proxes F08.

I then decided to get the racing tire from toyo since I could not get Bridgestone GIII (at the time), RE01, RE520S, RE540S from japan or sold here by the bridgestone dealer.

The toyo to me was 1.5 to almost 2 times better that the GR50. I would say 1.6-1.7x

So as you can see, the bridgestone GIII, no available here , would compete nicely with the RA1.

I contacted the delaler and he had 205 and not 185. My rim is very small and I took it to the dealer and he tried on the 205. It fit! . I decided 45mins before the dealer shut for the week, I wanted them.

I fits them and they had grip although oily.

My modify subaru revs to 6K rpm. I would rev to that on the RA1 and let go, the tires spins and pick up later. I rev the sub to 6K on the GIII and the tire spin for about less that one sec will the car bogs down to 3Krpm. That is bad. My ignition is coming next week and I will see if this here would still happen. I just cannot get the car to smoke the tires for a long time. Bad GIII's

Today, I love them. There now out breaking my Ra1's in the back.

To refresh you, in Japan, there is not racing tire like what the other manufacture have, except Yokohama.

Yokohama and Bridgestone produces tires up to the the Ultra Sport type. After that, real sports.

No half deads in between. See way above to what I am talking about.

Coming soon, Bridgestone Potenza RE55s

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 8, 2003 - 7:00 PM

[west_minist]

Thursday was the first time I drove on wet using my GIII's.

The grip is very good.

I have grew so a custom to breaking later and braking hard, that I have lost my sense of the RA1's.

What I can say that it feels like that RA1 will brake a little more, but when let lose, slides like glass.

When the GIII brakes lose, you can still feel grip and there is control.

The GIII has more aquaplaning ability than the RA1, but in this test, the road was just wet.

When I get a change, I will switch my RA1's to the front and put the GIII behind and see what happens.

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 8, 2003 - 7:40 PM

[west_minist]

Hi Guys!

I promise you this link on the Bridgestone Potenza RE55S tire.

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...ndex_re55s.html

I do not know, but check your local Japanese import dealers for ordering of this tire. This tire is for the serious Import Tuners.

You can click on the links and read. You will start to see this tire more on Japanese cars in the magazines.

It was already showed at the 2003 Japan Autosalon.

Happy reading

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 8, 2003 - 8:08 PM