OEM toyota oil filter vs the rest Options

[mk7celica]

Ok so I read in another thread on oil filters. I just installed a stp oil filter. Is it better for to get a toyota oil filter because it runs oil through faster because of its design? And my stp oil filter I have now dont is this true? I think It was in a thread about oil pressure not being made right away without a oem filter. I was wondering if I need a oem filter right away?

[lagos]

your engine has been running for close to 20yrs so far. over its life time it has had a lot of different oil filters on it and it has survived just fine till now. no need to panic.

[Hanyo]

all the old filters on the market are made by only a few manufacture and re-branded to certain markets.

There are obviously different materials/ design differences, but they all provide the basic fit and function.

The reason you would want to pay more for a filter is 1) your getting a better filter material inside and 2) the oil drain back valve design.

What the drain back valve does, is it keep the oil inside the filter when your car is off. So when you start your engine in the morning it provides some reserve oil for your engine until you get oil pressure. The second purpose of this valve is to let oil pass through it when the filter is clogged so you don't blow up your engine.

So in a brief explanation, if you keep up on your car maintenance up. You really dont need to worry about what oil filter you use. Because your oil filter will not fail on you with in 3k-5k miles.

If your paranoid like me, but a premium oil filter. But there is no guarantee that the better filter is not a dud off the shelf.

[DEATH]

Lagos is correct - However, you are also correct. Many of the oil filters still sold in today's market do not have this very important feature but not any one oil change worth of starts is going to ruin your motor. It is a good practise [and advised by many people on here] to always use Toyota OEM filters because there is no guesswork involved - there will always be an antidrain back valve [otherwise known as a check valve]. As a designer of lubrication check valves I can tell you it is a very important part of the lubrication system but don't panic, as Art said, if you don't have one on your car currently - just make sure you have one next time.
It's also highly possible that the STP filters have this feature [equally possible that they don't]. You'll be fine

[stephen_lee]

Lagos is correct - However, you are also correct. Many of the oil filters still sold in today's market do not have this very important feature but not any one oil change worth of starts is going to ruin your motor. It is a good practise [and advised by many people on here] to always use Toyota OEM filters because there is no guesswork involved - there will always be an antidrain back valve [otherwise known as a check valve]. As a designer of lubrication check valves I can tell you it is a very important part of the lubrication system but don't panic, as Art said, if you don't have one on your car currently - just make sure you have one next time.
It's also highly possible that the STP filters have this feature [equally possible that they don't]. You'll be fine

agreed. i have been using OEM filters lately, and the oil light goes off noticeably sooner

[jimmykay]

on the other side of the coin, i've put nearly 100k miles on my car with regular fram filters( 151k total on the car). i've even gotten pretty good at catching the oil out of the filter with a rag. however, on my next oil change i plan on using a toyota one just because i recently installed the ebay header and don't want to chance leaking extra oil on my header wrap.

Of course after saying this, I'll probably not get around to picking up a toyota oil filter before I change my oil and i'll just end up using another fram one.

[DEATH]

Um - Fram is about the worst filter you can pick for our cars - they def don't have a checkvalve. You are underlubing your motor during startup and shortening the lifetime of you engine.
Switch to OEM filter - they are $5 for god's sake [2 for $5 is you catch them on sale and stock up like I do]

[pittfirefighter]

i personally do like the K&N... it does show noticeably 5-7 psi higher on oil pressure... however you are also paying buttloads more for it

[92-gt]

Fram- They have a piece of cardboard where good filters usually have check valves. Their filter elements are JUNK. Fram filters are crap.

Toyota filters- Good quality filter element, and they do have a check valve. They can be bought for ~$5 from the dealer. They are the best bang for the buck.

K&N- Good quality throughout. Plus they have that handy nut welded on the top for easier removal. The downside is the price.

PureOne(advance auto)- Good quality element, check valve, and grippy casing for easier removal. They are around the same price as OEM filters.

I use either OEM or PureOne filters. I have used a K&N filter before, but thats because I got it from a friend brand new for $5.

Oh, and I have seen the inside of these filters before. When I took an automotive class, we cut several filters open as an experiment.

[samir0189]

ive been using fram filters since i got my car, at about 180k, and now the car has 260k, never rebuilt, doesn't burn any oil, the oil stays extremely clean and i run 7000 mile intervals on my oil. (mobil1 10-30 synthetic)

Bottom line, id say it doesn't matter the least bit. If the engine is gonna fail it wont be cause of the oil filter.

[pittfirefighter]

ive been using fram filters since i got my car, at about 180k, and now the car has 260k, never rebuilt, doesn't burn any oil, the oil stays extremely clean and i run 7000 mile intervals on my oil. (mobil1 10-30 synthetic)

Bottom line, id say it doesn't matter the least bit. If the engine is gonna fail it wont be cause of the oil filter.

WRONG

[Hanyo]

ive been using fram filters since i got my car, at about 180k, and now the car has 260k, never rebuilt, doesn't burn any oil, the oil stays extremely clean and i run 7000 mile intervals on my oil. (mobil1 10-30 synthetic)

Bottom line, id say it doesn't matter the least bit. If the engine is gonna fail it wont be cause of the oil filter.

WRONG

Pittfirefighter, I love how your replies are so useful you simply state something and never explain why.

samir0189, oil filters can cause an engine to blow up. If the pressure releave valve in the filter is faulty, it will cause the oil filter to essentially clog up and give your engine ZERO oil. But chances of that happening is slim simply because most people change there oil before the oil filter element is fully compromised.

[samir0189]

that would not be the oil filters fault. At that point it is the drivers fault for failing to change the oil. The oil filter is only designed to be used for so long before the element is clogged, it states that, I don't understand how that'd be the filters fault? Also if you are using a decent quality oil It should coat the engines internals to protect it for those few seconds of low pressure from those filters wihout check valves.

I've also had an experience where the dealership put the wrong filter on an engine, needless to say they swallowed the cost of replacing the engine, labor and all.

The oil filter can cause the engine to fail in cases like that, but under normal use with proper care and proper intervals it isn't gonna fry the engine.

No I do not work for fram but I really can't say their filters are so bad -insert something here-. With the amount of wear on my motor and using these things for so long I have nothing but good to say about them.



Why is this in forced induction?

This post has been edited by samir0189: Jun 29, 2009 - 5:40 AM

[presure2]

because the OP has a turbo motor.

[samir0189]

okie dokie then.

Not gonna chime in on the discussion eh? s'ok, i know you like your oem yota filters too Manny.

[presure2]

okie dokie then.

Not gonna chime in on the discussion eh? s'ok, i know you like your oem yota filters too Manny.

not really.
only think i can add is that i used a purolator pure one filter when i was breaking in the motor, it must have been defective, cause i had 0 oil pressure.
like litterally, 0.
pulled that filter, stuck the old one back on, and all was well.
OEM FTW.

[samir0189]

Yep i recall reading that. And I can't argue with OEM being ftw either, after all it was made for our engines by toyota.

This post has been edited by samir0189: Jun 29, 2009 - 11:00 AM

[samir0189]

I just read my new Fram filters box, and it says it does have an anti-drainback valve now, the box is new, the filter is gold now, so maybe they redesigned?

http://www.fram.com/oil-filters/xtended-guard.php

They also list it on the site.

No, I didnt cut open the filter to check, and I do take it with a grain of salt, my parents always told me "the fisherman will never say his fish is bad" lol.

[DEATH]

I just read my new Fram filters box, and it says it does have an anti-drainback valve now, the box is new, the filter is gold now, so maybe they redesigned?

http://www.fram.com/oil-filters/xtended-guard.php

They also list it on the site.

No, I didnt cut open the filter to check, and I do take it with a grain of salt, my parents always told me "the fisherman will never say his fish is bad" lol.

That's good - it's about time really. Are they still cheap?
I'll buy one here at work next time we do filter testing and I'll cut it open and share the results.

[samir0189]

eh, not exactly cheap, this one was close to $8.

But i don't mind paying that price cause I run the oil for super long and it stays clean, win/win.

this is the "high quality" fram filter, lmao. oxymoron for you there.

[presure2]

eh, not exactly cheap, this one was close to $8.

But i don't mind paying that price cause I run the oil for super long and it stays clean, win/win.

this is the "high quality" fram filter, lmao. oxymoron for you there.

if your paying 8$ for an aftermarket filter that your not sure on the quality of, why not buy an oem filter for 4$, that has proven quality behind it?

[samir0189]

eh, not exactly cheap, this one was close to $8.

But i don't mind paying that price cause I run the oil for super long and it stays clean, win/win.

this is the "high quality" fram filter, lmao. oxymoron for you there.

if your paying 8$ for an aftermarket filter that your not sure on the quality of, why not buy an oem filter for 4$, that has proven quality behind it?

A good question, Manny.

Ive never really tried an oem one, and dealerships are 25+ miles from here and not really in the direction i go anyway.

I do alot of driving, my father too. Idk if all oem filters are the same, but my dad used oem filters on his nissan frontier, and would have very dirty oil at 3-4k, and for the heck of it we tried a fram one and the oil stayed cleaner for longer, 7-8k intervals. So it kind of may seem silly to pay 2x the oem filter cost yes, but doubling the life of the oil itself helps pay back for that.

I really feel like i get my moneys worth on both the oil and the filter by being able to run it for so long, you really dont get to take advantage of the fully synthetic oils unless you get that kinda mileage outta them, imo.

How long does oem toyota filters keep the synthetic clean? Im curious.....

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

i only run OE filters as they are known to be the goods. Ide rather pay a doller or 2 more for genuine stuff you know is damm good.

Ill gibe you an example of how not all filters are equal. I have a TA63 celica (3t-gte, lsd, digital dash etc all standard) and the 3t-gte sometimes has HIGH oil pressure issues, and its been noted on many engines (hasnt happened to me) they have actually split non OE oil filters, obviously pissing oil out everywhere, and running a massive risk of fncking your engine. OE filters though, no such drama.

moral of the story...factory oil filters win.

This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Jul 12, 2009 - 4:36 AM

[trdproven]

i think FRAM is only ok if you get the higher version. If you've seen the inside of a Fram filter you think a child built it.

[DEATH]

I have a TA63 celica (3t-gte, lsd, digital dash etc all standard) and the 3t-gte sometimes has HIGH oil pressure issues, and its been noted on many engines (hasnt happened to me) they have actually split non OE oil filters, obviously pissing oil out everywhere, and running a massive risk of fncking your engine. OE filters though, no such drama.

Please PM me a link to this car when you get a spare moment - I'm very interested to see it

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

bit OT but here you go death

first and last turbo celicas













This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Jul 16, 2009 - 2:06 AM

[presure2]

NNNNNNNNIIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCCCCCEEEEEEEEEE!!!

[DEATH]

NNNNNNNNIIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCCCCCEEEEEEEEEE!!!

Hell yeah - very nice man.
The only thing I'd do is swap to the MKII Celica/Supra front end, paint it and call it a day.
Love the car man

[samir0189]

That certainly is alot of plug wires!

Oh, was that the "twin spark" design? That would make sense,

Nice clean car

[DEATH]

Oh, was that the "twin spark" design? That would make sense,

yes it is

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

yeah its gettin an RA65 front end (proper pop ups) new front bar, some lowered springs and a fmic in the near future.

[pitcelica]

What about quaker state oil filter? I'm always using these and the Quaker state oil too.