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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 29, '09 From Lake Ariel, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
Hey guys this a guide i made on how to change you're own fuel filter in a 6 generation Celica GT.
I am in no way responsible for anything that may happen to you're car during this process, but if you follow my directions and warnings you should be good. Tools/Parts Needed: Phillips Screw Driver Flat Head Screw Driver A Vice Grip or a 14mm wrench A Crescent Wrench that will fit within the work space. Socket Wrench with an extension Goggles New Fuel Filter with 2 washers(washers should come with it) First Step: Make sure the fuel filter looks like the one in your car it's located right behind the stock air intake box. ![]() To make enough room in order to get down to the fuel filter the stock air box(Assuming you have the stock intake in you're car and not aftermarket). Begin by removing the clips on all sides of the box(There should be 4) ![]() Remove the O2 sensor in the back of the box, it should just pull right out ![]() Loosen the clamp holding on the top of the air intake using a screw driver to loosen the bolt and then remove the top portion of the box along with the filter. ![]() Next there will be 3 screws holding down the bottom portion of the intake box, this is where you need the extension on the socket wrench. ![]() ![]() Then there will be two clamps around the wiring that sits around your box, all you need to do is pry it open with a flat head, they should just pop off and the bottom portion of the intake box should just come right out. Now you should have a clear view of the fuel filter, before continuing make sure you're car is off and cooled down. Next I would suggest putting some cardboard underneath where the fuel filter sits on the ground so you don't get it on the floor but its you're choice. Once your car is cooled throw on some goggles and you can proceed to slowly remove the top fixture on the fuel filter, don't be afraid quite a bit of fuel will come out but its just releasing the pressure that's built up in the fuel lines, make sure its the top not the bottom the top will release the pressure easier, it may spray up(that's why you're wearing goggles). ![]() Next is the hardest and trickiest part of the whole ordeal, you have to remove the fuel filter from the bottom of the fuel line but you can't exactly see what you are doing. I took a picture of what it looks like. ![]() I put a vice on the bottom nut like so and just let it rest on the inner fender wall( I took this picture after i removed the fuel filter to show you where it should properly be fixed to) ![]() Use the Crescent Wrench and proceed to turn the fuel filters lower nut(above where the vice/14mm wrench is) counter clockwise. (Be very careful not to tweak the bottom fuel line too much when trying to remove the filter because you can crack the fuel line if you do.) Once the old filter is off screw in the new one. Place the new washers on the top and bottom of the upper fuel line taken out of the top of the filter and screw it back in. Start your car and make sure it isn't leaking anywhere (It'll take a second to start again since your line is depressurized.) If there are no leaks just install things in backwards order of how I told you to take them out. Congratulations on your first fuel filter install and enjoy the better gas mileage. You're engine will be thanking you too. -------------------- ![]() Representing the Convertible Crew since 2008 |
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![]() Moderator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) ![]() |
just FYI, you should always use a good quality flare nut wrench on that bottom nut.
![]() also, before you do anything you should relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by removing your gas cap. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
![]() 13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 25, '06 From MN Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) ![]() |
Your suppose to prime the new filter when installed all you do is just press on the gas pedal a couple of times before starting the car and yeah I agree with presure flare nut wrench is a must with a vice grip you just end up stripping the lower nut. And make sure to properly torq the top bolt to the right specs I believe is 22lbs for most of them.
-------------------- "To Protect And To Serve The Wealthy" -POLICE
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 18, '05 From Lincoln, Ar Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) ![]() |
Nice writeup!
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
this is near impossible to remove on a 1995 5sfe camry without removing the canister that's sitting next to it. I tried using a 19mm wrench and used all my strength with both hands while turning the wrench clockwise but only heard a few cracks and the nut didn't loosen up at all
![]() -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) ![]() |
another tip!! take out the fuel pump fuse and start the car, the car should cutoff when all the fuel is gone.
-------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
another tip!! take out the fuel pump fuse and start the car, the car should cutoff when all the fuel is gone. what, but that doesn't help me!!! ![]() thats only so that you don't drip any fuel onto the ground and in the engine bay, which is something I didnt know thanks ![]() This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 21, 2011 - 2:40 AM -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
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![]() Moderator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) ![]() |
17mm wrench on the bottom of the fuel filter, and a high quality 14mm flare wrench, or crows foot, and PB blaster.
-------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
![]() 13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 29, '09 From Gainesville, FL Currently Offline Reputation: 17 (100%) ![]() |
Watch that bango fitting on the top of the filter as well.
Can be a pain, and if you crank on it incorrectly with plans on reusing the filter. You'll bend the piss out of the top of it. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) ![]() |
thats not an O2 sensor in the airbox, its the air intake temp sensor.
and pumping the gas does NOT prime the fuel filter. this is electronically controlled fuel injection. all you have to do is cycle the key a few times. -------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
17mm wrench on the bottom of the fuel filter, and a high quality 14mm flare wrench, or crows foot, and PB blaster. oh **** really then how is it that I was able to fit a 19mm on the bottom. so it requires to different sizes ok I'll try that. -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 10, '10 From MA Currently Offline Reputation: 37 (100%) ![]() |
17mm wrench on the bottom of the fuel filter, and a high quality 14mm flare wrench, or crows foot, and PB blaster. oh **** really then how is it that I was able to fit a 19mm on the bottom. so it requires to different sizes ok I'll try that. 19mm > 17mm, that's whyy This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 21, 2011 - 3:35 PM |
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![]() Moderator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) ![]() |
17mm wrench on the bottom of the fuel filter, and a high quality 14mm flare wrench, or crows foot, and PB blaster. oh **** really then how is it that I was able to fit a 19mm on the bottom. so it requires to different sizes ok I'll try that. well, sorry, it very well could be a 19mm...im not perfect, never claimed to be, jerkoff. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
![]() 13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
haha I just re read what I posted and it did sound as if I was being a dick about which I wasn't. And yea its a 19mm and a 14mm thanks Manny.
-------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 29, '09 From Lake Ariel, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
wow its alive haha, wtf so any write up i do is gonna take over a year to get any attention?
-------------------- ![]() Representing the Convertible Crew since 2008 |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
wow its alive haha, wtf so any write up i do is gonna take over a year to get any attention? haha ya I needed it badly. Just a question is this stickied, I think not! Rusty oh Rusty where are you ![]() -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) ![]() |
well i used 2 good open wrenches.........but i did punch i think it was the trans or the frame.
-------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 20, '09 From Winnipeg Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
DOn't mean to bring this up from the dead, but what is a flare nut wrench? And is it absolutely needed?
Also, sticky? -------------------- -Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load. 1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver 1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater 1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead My Celica! |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) ![]() |
![]() aka Line Wrench...and yeah, if you dont want to strip out anything. This post has been edited by Spider77: Jul 28, 2011 - 7:45 PM |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 20, '09 From Winnipeg Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Wouldn't an open ended wrench do the same thing?
I don't understand how that would prevent stripping a nut -------------------- -Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load. 1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver 1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater 1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead My Celica! |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) ![]() |
Because where an open end wrench might slip off, a line wrench has the extra bits at the end that in effect create a fifth point of contact. Thus vastly reducing the risks of slipping. Especially when dealing with the fittings on fuel, and brake lines...as they tend to be made of a softer metal.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 20, '09 From Winnipeg Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Ohhh okay, you couldn't just slip the other end of a normal wrench over it? (The side thats compltely closed)
-------------------- -Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load. 1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver 1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater 1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead My Celica! |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) ![]() |
Nope, how would you do it? Remember, were not talking about the banjo fitting on top (and on that fitting you should used the closed end)
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 20, '09 From Winnipeg Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Ahhh yea.
I didn't look close enough at the pictures. I was more thinking about fitting the line wrench directly onto the nut, not through the line then over top of the nut lol. My bad. Thanks for clearing it up. -------------------- -Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load. 1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver 1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater 1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead My Celica! |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Feb 6, '11 From Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) ![]() |
-Always disconnect the Battery before starting (its close and you are dealing with fuel!)
-The sensor in the top airlid is an air temerature sensor, not O2.. to avoid confision. -ALWAYS relieve fuel pressure before removing anything in the fuel system (mentioned) -Use Line wrenches to avoid the headaches of stripped nuts AND hurt knuckles. (mentioned) |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
yes I know old... there were no other new threads (google told me so)
my fuel line is deteriorating from behind my intake manifold. Its a 5/16 fuel line that I got from a hard ware store. i don't have the oem beams fuel line as those cost $180 brand new from japan. I noticed the oem fuel line from top of fuel filter to fuel rail has a rubber wrapping. When I install new fuel line, should I wrap it with 196 degree electrical tape so it won't deteriorate in the future. Its only been 4,000 miles a 4 months since I installed a new one.... -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
see fuel line from hardware store after 4,000 miles
![]() new line from autozone. hopefully this one will last longer. also whats the difference between fuel line and fuel injection line!! the fuel injection line at autozone had a blue tape lining on inside of rubber line... but I didnt get that because they ran out.. ![]() This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Oct 15, 2012 - 4:36 PM -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
The difference is that regular fuel line is designed for carbureted engines which run very low fuel pressure and the fuel injection hose is stronger and designed for EFI cars which run at much higher fuel pressures.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
The difference is that regular fuel line is designed for carbureted engines which run very low fuel pressure and the fuel injection hose is stronger and designed for EFI cars which run at much higher fuel pressures. oh so then the one I just installed will just deteriorate again in a few months... -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 26, '11 From ventura, ca Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
is this the same or similar on a 7A?
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) ![]() |
The difference is that regular fuel line is designed for carbureted engines which run very low fuel pressure and the fuel injection hose is stronger and designed for EFI cars which run at much higher fuel pressures. oh so then the one I just installed will just deteriorate again in a few months... also today while driving my car suddenly shut off. I figured hmm electrical or fuel pump line again. As sure enough it was. The first line lasted 4 days while this one lasted 20 days what's going. Do i have wrong fuel line. ![]() the one I just installed today is an autozone brand. Hopefully it'll last me for well over a few months....??? -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 8, '11 From Indianapolis, IN Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Is there any sort of maintenance schedule for the fuel filter?
My car is starting to have an issue and I can't tell if it is pump or filter. Would be nice to know if there was some "scheduled maintenance" that I missed on it or if it is supposed to be a lifetime. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 30, '14 From Cortland NY Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Is there any sort of maintenance schedule for the fuel filter? My car is starting to have an issue and I can't tell if it is pump or filter. Would be nice to know if there was some "scheduled maintenance" that I missed on it or if it is supposed to be a lifetime. Rule of mechanical thumb is trying to change the filters at least once a year at least as far as a regular scheduled maintenance. If our cars were still new it would be after the first 50,000 miles were put on to have it changed or cleaned, however with age comes the chances for debris and rust so its better to clean or change yearly. -------------------- 1997 ST:Limitedly Green
This car is not about racing... This car is not about power or performance... It's purely about being cool. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 4, '09 From Sacramento, California Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Is there any sort of maintenance schedule for the fuel filter? My car is starting to have an issue and I can't tell if it is pump or filter. Would be nice to know if there was some "scheduled maintenance" that I missed on it or if it is supposed to be a lifetime. Rule of mechanical thumb is trying to change the filters at least once a year at least as far as a regular scheduled maintenance. If our cars were still new it would be after the first 50,000 miles were put on to have it changed or cleaned, however with age comes the chances for debris and rust so its better to clean or change yearly. Wow really? I have some serious doubts that any of the previous owners have changed it on my car, and for the past 3.5 years I haven't either, only thing I do is run chemical additives and use good fuel. I assume the repercussions of my actions, or lack thereof, is deposits going into the fuel injections or engine? Which is no bueno -------------------- Brand new 6gc owner! (sort of 2011)
The world is moving around a sun, the sun moves around a local arm of the galaxy, the local arm of the galaxy moves around a gigantic black hole. |
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