Everything needed for a suspension upgrade? Options

[NWCelica]

I want to go with HR Springs but it seems like KYB is the the only strut/shock available for our cars except for Koni $$$. I need a list of whats needed to do it right ....... thanks

[Harold_Fastwaker]

You really only have 4 options

1: Lowering springs on stock struts
2: lowering springs on KYB or stock replacement
3: lowering springs on Koni yellows
4: coilovers


each number has a price increase. Want it done right, buy lowering springs with KYBs if you want it done right and at the lowest cost.

[Spider77]

Im kinda in the same boat. I got my tein s-tech...had them for a while and just now getting everything together so i slap them on there. Got a good deal on my struts as well (all 4 only 100!!!). Still need to order new front strut mounts, bellows (bump stops come in that kit). If you want to go all out there are some other things you can get. Im trying to get some new end links, I would like new sway bars, but will settle for new bushings, and a strut bar (not srtut related, but suspension related...sorta)

[nics]

Im kinda in the same boat. I got my tein s-tech...had them for a while and just now getting everything together so i slap them on there. Got a good deal on my struts as well (all 4 only 100!!!). Still need to order new front strut mounts, bellows (bump stops come in that kit). If you want to go all out there are some other things you can get. Im trying to get some new end links, I would like new sway bars, but will settle for new bushings, and a strut bar (not srtut related, but suspension related...sorta)

where'd u buy it?

[SwissFerdi]

If the KYB's are supposedly a stock replacement, and I assume they work exactly the same (unless there's a difference in compression resistance), then why can't stock shocks be used, IF the vehicle is relatively low-mileage and the shocks are assumedly in good condition?

[Euphoria]

they can be but they usually don't last very long, also yes celicas use kyb but they're hydraulic where as the new ones are gas.

[SwissFerdi]

they can be but they usually don't last very long, also yes celicas use kyb but they're hydraulic where as the new ones are gas.

I know they won't last long, but I was looking for an answer to why if they're so similar. That's probably it then.

[Spider77]

Im kinda in the same boat. I got my tein s-tech...had them for a while and just now getting everything together so i slap them on there. Got a good deal on my struts as well (all 4 only 100!!!). Still need to order new front strut mounts, bellows (bump stops come in that kit). If you want to go all out there are some other things you can get. Im trying to get some new end links, I would like new sway bars, but will settle for new bushings, and a strut bar (not srtut related, but suspension related...sorta)

where'd u buy it?

Got it from some guy on Ebay...I thought it sounded too good to be true, so I called up the company and talked to them. Apparently those were the last sets, and after they are out, they are not going to order anymore. So im waiting for them to arrive..should be in a few days.

[nics]

are those all struts(f&R)?

Is it this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

its not hard to do the front inserts, right?

This post has been edited by nics: Sep 10, 2009 - 4:34 PM

[808celica]

I want to go with HR Springs but it seems like KYB is the the only strut/shock available for our cars except for Koni $$$. I need a list of whats needed to do it right ....... thanks

Rachet(s) 1/2in and 3/8in drives
Various size sockets in mm also in 1/2in and/or 3/8in drive
Breaker bar(s)
Allen wrench set for the swaybar links
An Impact gun
Spring compressors
A tub of grease
Lots of towels


New shocks
Your drop springs of choice
......and top mounts depending on the condition of yours, you should be good with the oems though
Might as well get camber bolts either Eibach, Ingalls, etc.

Having friends around helps
2hrs max for me with numerous breaks in between lolz
Could take about 3hrs max taking your time and making sure everything is set and greased and double checked.

[Spider77]

are those all struts(f&R)?

Is it this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

its not hard to do the front inserts, right?

Yes that one. All 4, the two sets and the two front carts. As far as to how hard it is to do...dont know yet. Cant be that difficult with a vice! I think the hardest thing would be the end links really (from what ive read).

[808celica]

the whole job isnt that hard. 3 top mounts nuts, loosen the shock nut before removing the top nuts.
2 strut to hub bolts and nuts, allen wrench and an open ended wrench for the endlinks, brake lines, and maneuver the assembly out.
--compress the springs evenly, remove the already loosened shock top nut, remove top mount, evenly release the spring compressor, replace everything and reverse the steps.

[nics]

are those all struts(f&R)?

Is it this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

its not hard to do the front inserts, right?

Yes that one. All 4, the two sets and the two front carts. As far as to how hard it is to do...dont know yet. Cant be that difficult with a vice! I think the hardest thing would be the end links really (from what ive read).

but the part numbers for the front are inserts

so, how did you managed to get struts for the front with it? i called them sometime ago but the guy who spoke to me sounds retarded

[BonzaiCelica]

you dont really need camber bolts. I did alignment 3 times after I installed tanabe df210 with gr-2 about a year ago. my spc camber bolts are sitting in my room waiting to be put on, but that wont be until i get coilovers

[Galcobar]

If you're doing a strut and spring replacement, you might want to add a few more parts to the list:

1) spring seat insulators (four front, two rear)
2) anti-sway bar end links (getting the stock ones off without destroying them is nigh impossible unless you've a desert-kept car)
3) strut mounts

I make these points under the assumption NWCelica has a car from the Pacific Northwest, where rain is a factor -- or more pointedly, rust. If it's a 1999, you might skip the strut mounts, but much older and you'll find there's a value to new items.

As a side note, the KYB GR-2 have a warranty. Unlike most struts in their price range, the warranty is good if you drop your car as much as 1.5".

[Spider77]

are those all struts(f&R)?

Is it this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

its not hard to do the front inserts, right?

Yes that one. All 4, the two sets and the two front carts. As far as to how hard it is to do...dont know yet. Cant be that difficult with a vice! I think the hardest thing would be the end links really (from what ive read).

but the part numbers for the front are inserts

so, how did you managed to get struts for the front with it? i called them sometime ago but the guy who spoke to me sounds retarded

Say what? Correct, what I have ordered are the two front inserts. As well as the rear struts (which are one whole part..housing and cart). There are three P/N listed.
# Front: 365092
# Front: 365092
# Rear: 334125
# Rear: 334126.
The guy I spoke with sounded fine with me, but we'll see when they arrive...which should be soon.

[nics]

are those all struts(f&R)?

Is it this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

its not hard to do the front inserts, right?

Yes that one. All 4, the two sets and the two front carts. As far as to how hard it is to do...dont know yet. Cant be that difficult with a vice! I think the hardest thing would be the end links really (from what ive read).

but the part numbers for the front are inserts

so, how did you managed to get struts for the front with it? i called them sometime ago but the guy who spoke to me sounds retarded

Say what? Correct, what I have ordered are the two front inserts. As well as the rear struts (which are one whole part..housing and cart). There are three P/N listed.
# Front: 365092
# Front: 365092
# Rear: 334125
# Rear: 334126.
The guy I spoke with sounded fine with me, but we'll see when they arrive...which should be soon.

i see

i was planning to order it there but skeptical bec. the price was so cheap. others are priced around 200+

let me know when u receive it.

[Spider77]

i will. Hopefully when i get home they will arrive

[nics]

i will. Hopefully when i get home they will arrive

any update?

[Spider77]

Not yet...I kind of wonder why people go through UPS at times....limited hours, dont deliver on weekends....So tomorrow is the last day of quoted shipping (and it would figure), I should see it then. Getting anxious though.

[nics]

we'll see how slow they are. i recently bought a tv and i believe it would be shipped through UPS.

[Spider77]

I guess...you knw how it is when your waiting for something. But also know how some people just drop off the package at your door and walk off....hate that.

[nics]

got it and installed? im just wondering what wrench did ya use to unscrew the nut for the fron shocks?

[Spider77]

Nothing yet, FedEx shipped it out, went to the wrong address (even though my addy is on the label) and then shipped it back. Im trying to get FedEx to ship it out on their tab, but still working on that. Which nut are you talking about? That gland nut?

[Galcobar]

Gland nut I found was easiest to do by flipping the entire strut upside down in a vice -- vice holds the nut, and a prybar through the bolt holes for the axle carrier to turn the strut. Break it loose, set strut right-side up (to avoid the oil draining out) then apply pipe/monkey wrench.

[Spider77]

Never really thought about flipping the assy upside down to loosen the nut. May have to try that out when i get mine.

[nics]

spider77, if you got time to take pics while your doing the fronts, that will be great and helpfull

[Spider77]

Thats when I get them. But sure no problem.

[Galcobar]

Never really thought about flipping the assy upside down to loosen the nut. May have to try that out when i get mine.

Best how-to I know of, though the torque specs are a little off since it's an MR2.
http://www.turbomr2.com/MR2/HowTo/Suspensi...ringStrut-1.HTM

[BonzaiCelica]

uhh if you guys want i can post pictures up or do a write up by tomorrow evening.. i took pics of me installing front inserts but never got around to doing the write up.

the write up would be on how to install front insert struts

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 23, 2009 - 1:51 AM

[Keiri]

uhh if you guys want i can post pictures up or do a write up by tomorrow evening.. i took pics of me installing front inserts but never got around to doing the write up.

the write up would be on how to install front insert struts

Do it.

[nics]

make sure you do not put oil or anything. thats what kyb recommends.

[Galcobar]

Oddly, that's what I was told by KYB customer support, but the instruction sheet included with my GR-2 actually said to capture and re-use the oil from the rebuildable struts.

I went without, as I did not have anything suitable handy and customer support assured me that it wouldn't be an issue for a street car.

[nics]

spider77, fixed?

[Spider77]

Not yet. Still waiting for FedEx to get the claim pushed. I should hear something in two days, or so Im told. I did put the FedEx on blast when they mis-delivered another package (boots and a rear motor mount). They know where I live now as I had to pretty much show the driver where I am. The guys at Just Suspension have been real good about letting me know whats going on.

[Spider77]

Wow, finally got the things. Took long enough! Price was good, but the packing was not so good. So, hopefully sometime this week I'll get everything installed. But probly next week is more lilkley....

[nics]

wtf?? that took forever!!! but still $100 is a very good price you cant complain to that if it works fine

[Spider77]

Yeah, not a bad price. Been wanting to install, but right now the rain is making it difficult.

[nics]

Im jealous, wish it would rain soon here in cali...

[Spider77]

Trust me, I wish it wasnt. Been off and on for the last week or so....annoying. But I think after I do the struts/springs, its the last bit of work im going to put into the celica.. Given the estimated amount of things I need Id be better off saving and getting something newish.

[Spider77]

Well, finally did it. Took me and one of my friends about 5 hours to do all 4 corners. Wouldnt be so bad, but both my rear struts are the same P/N. Which I guessed I check them, but probly overlooked it. So placed the old strut on, have to order a new driver rear strut assy. Other than that, it looks great. I'll take some pics and post it up tomorrow.

[Joe_1985]

i lucked out and got kyb with h&r springs with good mounts and bumpstops all for 120

i got the rears on, fronts will be wensday when i do the cv axles

[Spider77]

i lucked out and got kyb with h&r springs with good mounts and bumpstops all for 120

i got the rears on, fronts will be wensday when i do the cv axles

Say what?! That is a great deal. The only thing I paid for was struts (100) front mounts (which I didnt need), and boots/bumpstops. Still 120 for what you got is a helluva deal!

BTW....Changing rear struts in a coupe sucks.

This post has been edited by Spider77: Nov 8, 2009 - 8:24 PM

[Joe_1985]

thats what i did today, in my coupe, the rears

wasnt that bad, fold down the seats, push in the push pins, lift the deck cover, that was a pita, unskrew the 2 phillps on each side for the plastic panel, use a 3/8 12mm with a regular size socket wrench, remove 3 nuts per side.

rest is pie

oh wait i have air tools and that massive harbor freight shop jack

This post has been edited by Joe_1985: Nov 8, 2009 - 8:43 PM

[Spider77]

Yeah, air tools woulda made it alot faster. And perhaps if I was a good foot shorter I could cram myself in the back a bit easier as well. But yeah, that deck cover was annoying.

[SwissFerdi]

How hard was it to do though, overall? Considering your mechanical inclination.

[Spider77]

How hard was it to do though, overall? Considering your mechanical inclination.

Well, the only hard parts was cramming myself in the back seat to get those nuts, and popping out those rear struts (took a punch and hammer to get the bolts to move). I have to say rebuilding the fronts was much easier, although messier. They went in and out with little to no problem. The rears, well, the hub just dosent move around a whole lot (as compared to front). But after figuring out a plan of attack by breaking down the first one (which really took the longest), we cruised right through it. Not real hard at all, just taking our time to make sure that everything was put back right.

[Joe_1985]

i dunno about you guys but my car rides a whole lot better and vibrates less( i got a set of wheels and tires for 150, but they need to be balanced)

[SwissFerdi]

Well, the only hard parts was cramming myself in the back seat to get those nuts, and popping out those rear struts (took a punch and hammer to get the bolts to move). I have to say rebuilding the fronts was much easier, although messier. They went in and out with little to no problem. The rears, well, the hub just dosent move around a whole lot (as compared to front). But after figuring out a plan of attack by breaking down the first one (which really took the longest), we cruised right through it. Not real hard at all, just taking our time to make sure that everything was put back right.

Good. Looks like I'll be attempting this myself then.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 17, 2009 - 10:47 PM

[Joe_1985]

if your tall it helps to remove the 4 14mm bolts from the seats and move them

im only 5'9 so i didnt do this but i have done it on smaller cars

[Spider77]

That sounds like its adding more work. Id rather cram in somewhere than start removing stuff that I dont really have to.
Swiss-----Make sure that you have a friend there to help, if your rebuilding the fronts a bench vise/ford wrench (or pipe wrench) helps things, and pb blast the bolts/nuts and give it time to work in.

[SwissFerdi]

^ LOLWUT?

PB blasting? Something WD-40-like, I assume?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 9, 2009 - 10:42 AM

[samir0189]

^ LOLWUT?

PB blasting? Something WD-40-like, I assume?

http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4

it works wonders.

[SwissFerdi]

Shweet, thanks man. Is it available at auto parts stores?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 9, 2009 - 3:41 PM

[Spider77]

Yes it is! Is probably the best stuff of its kind.
Oh, btw...I did post some pics of the lowered celica....
but here is a close up of the new gap (after installation)

The rear.....3 Finger'ish gap

How it used to be (had to play with the contrast so you can see the wheel well) I could get almost shoulder deep in that thing!


The Front....2 Finger gap


Thats pretty much dead on as I could get. Of course, looks lower when your standing over it!

Ok, so I went out and took some other pics, here you go....


So that is the front gap, and pretty much how I see it from where I stand next to it.



Same as before, but for the rear.
I'll admit looking dead on and level, it dosent look like much, but standing over it, well, it makes me realize that I need spacers, or a better offset. And they are just one there, been 1 day now, so Im assuming that they will settle over time.

This post has been edited by Spider77: Nov 9, 2009 - 6:54 PM

[SwissFerdi]

Hopefully they'll settle a lot, because that's still a pretty huge gap...I'm not sure 1.5 inches is enough for me.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 9, 2009 - 5:49 PM

[Joe_1985]

yeah i have h&r springs, so far im thinking it would look better with another half inch or so lower

what size tires on on the chome gts rims?

[Spider77]

um...not GTS. They are like 15 inch versions of gts. but i thik im running 205 55 15

[mmmchocolate]

did your car settle anymore? i mean how does it look now after you've had them on for awhile?

[SwissFerdi]

Rather than making a new thread...ordering KYB GR-2 struts and probably S-Techs. Provided that I don't break the sway bar end links, this is all I need right?

[flyinglizard]

Rather than making a new thread...ordering KYB GR-2 struts and probably S-Techs. Provided that I don't break the sway bar end links, this is all I need right?

Good choice. Yes that's all you need.

[Spider77]

When it comes to the endlinks, PB Blast those things and let it really soak in. I had one come off fine, but the other wound up getting rounded out. Thinking about getting new endlinks anyways (or sway bars...as the cost might come close to the same...I think).

[SwissFerdi]

Thanks flyinglizard. I'm still considering going with Eibach Sportlines just for the increased drop, not sure if 1.4 and 0.9 is enough.

Thanks Spider, I appreciate that. I figure I can get them off okay...but if they do break, I'm pretty much effed until I replace it, right? So it might be safer to have a few just to be sure. Have your springs settled any, BTW? And are you happy with the performance & looks? Your should be just a bit lower in the front than a lowered ST, since your engine's heavier.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 25, 2009 - 7:48 PM

[Spider77]

Thanks flyinglizard. I'm still considering going with Eibach Sportlines just for the increased drop, not sure if 1.4 and 0.9 is enough.

Thanks Spider, I appreciate that. I figure I can get them off okay...but if they do break, I'm pretty much effed until I replace it, right? So it might be safer to have a few just to be sure. Have your springs settled any, BTW? And are you happy with the performance & looks? Your should be just a bit lower in the front than a lowered ST, since your engine's heavier.

Well, I like it so far. Again, a bit bouncy (the springs had a bit of "play" in them before I installed). I dont expect to see much settling as its been less than a month. As far as performance, I like it. Can take corners easier now. Have not really pushed it though, as I want to rebuild the rest of the suspension....At least new endlinks/sway bars, bushings, etc....
If you happen to round out the endlink, you can just take a pair of alligator vice grips, and grab the opposite end (right before the boot) with them. Thats what I had to do.

[SwissFerdi]

Okay. I think they're pretty much the most popular spring choice, so I guess people aren't wrong.

[samir0189]

how do you round out the endlinks? There is a hole in the endlink bolt for a 5mm allen/hex key, hammer it in there and use an open ended wrench to get them off.

[Spider77]

how do you round out the endlinks? There is a hole in the endlink bolt for a 5mm allen/hex key, hammer it in there and use an open ended wrench to get them off.

Thats what I did, the passenger side came off fine, but the driver side not so much.

[samir0189]

how do you round out the endlinks? There is a hole in the endlink bolt for a 5mm allen/hex key, hammer it in there and use an open ended wrench to get them off.

Thats what I did, the passenger side came off fine, but the driver side not so much.

Ok then, sorry, lol

[SwissFerdi]

I can't wait to put this shtuff in. My baby needs the drop. I need to do some more research, but I think I have it down, at least what I need to do. I'll be doing this with my brother, and he'll bring a hydraulic jack and stands from a friend...so it shouldn't be too difficult. Funny thing is, my dad's fully against it since he was quoted 600 for his '08 A4, just because apparently the axles have to be removed...he didn't even want to listen to the process of how it's done.

Can't wait!

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 26, 2009 - 3:13 PM

[SwissFerdi]

One more n00b question folks: are the struts side-specific? I'm getting two part numbers here for the same thing.

http://www.amazon.com/KYB-334125-GR-2-Stru...e&carId=009
http://www.amazon.com/KYB-334126-GR-2-Stru...e&carId=009

[nics]

yes they are side specific. those ones are for the rear. for the front inserts it doesnt matter unless u get the full strut assembly.


2 front 334378-334379 complete struts, 2 Rear 334125-334126

365092 front cartridge shocks

[SwissFerdi]

I was planning on getting the entire strut assembly, front and rear, just to be safe. Thanks man, I appreciate that. So the individual fronts and rears are interchangeable, or is each specific to a corner?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 27, 2009 - 3:47 PM

[nics]

each is specific to a corner.

[windowlicker]

I can't wait to put this shtuff in. My baby needs the drop. I need to do some more research, but I think I have it down, at least what I need to do. I'll be doing this with my brother, and he'll bring a hydraulic jack and stands from a friend...so it shouldn't be too difficult. Funny thing is, my dad's fully against it since he was quoted 600 for his '08 A4, just because apparently the axles have to be removed...he didn't even want to listen to the process of how it's done.

Can't wait!

i'm need lift!

[SwissFerdi]

Nics, I just noticed you posted the front part numbers as well...I really appreciate that. I was looking for them and just found them this afternoon.

Eibach Sportlines or Tein S-Tech? I want a noticeable drop and I'm not sure if the Teins are enough (looking at hurley97 and 97lestyousay, it seems to be). I do want to 'feel' the drop, I don't mind a rougher ride...just not Megan rough. 1.4" is the minimum I want to drop, but the Sportlines' 1.5" all around sounds better than the S-Tech's 1.4" front and .9" rear.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 29, 2009 - 10:27 PM

[nics]

Nics, I just noticed you posted the front part numbers as well...I really appreciate that. I was looking for them and just found them this afternoon.

why make a such a big deal about posting it up?

[SwissFerdi]

Because I was confused about the part numbers and didn't realize you had posted the fronts as well, so I looked and found the info on another site.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 29, 2009 - 11:13 PM

[CelicaST_CALI]

Do you have to have a spring compressor to do this job??

[nics]

you can loan it at autozone

[SwissFerdi]

That's the plan...looks like a $33 deposit. Not bad.

[nics]

tnx for giving the price!

[SwissFerdi]

No problem brosef.

Does anyone here know the spring rates for the Sportlines? I can't find it anywhere. S-Techs are 3.9KG in front and 2.2 in the rear.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 30, 2009 - 4:47 PM

[nics]

it says progressive springs

http://www.tuninglinx.com/html/suspension-springs.html

still confusing for me cuz trd springs claims that the spring rates are 4.1f, 2.9r and the TRD springs are just rebranded eibach pro-kit which also described as progressive springs

This post has been edited by nics: Nov 30, 2009 - 5:43 PM

[LewFX]

you dont need a spring compressor...it isnt necessary but for safety when taking off the old strut top nuts

[nics]

but mounting the springs yes.

[LewFX]

but mounting the springs yes.

no

[samir0189]

you dont need a spring compressor...it isnt necessary but for safety when taking off the old strut top nuts

thats not good advice to give people, really. I am sure it can be done without the compressors but why take the chance, they rent them for free. If these people get injuries from following your (lack of) advice im sure they'll be looking for you. EDIT: perhaps with one eye. lol

This post has been edited by samir0189: Nov 30, 2009 - 8:23 PM

[flyinglizard]

you dont need a spring compressor...it isnt necessary but for safety when taking off the old strut top nuts

+1
I borrowed a spring compressor from a friend out of fear of injury, only to discover that it was utterly pointless. I only used it for one of the springs, and for the others the top nut only sprung off the mount about 6 inches. Our stock springs are under very little compression when not installed on the vehicle. There are a few youtube videos on spring installations that show what happens when you don't use a spring compressor.

It isn't necessary, but do what you please.

[CelicaST_CALI]

i love danger...no compressor it is

[nics]

you dont need a spring compressor...it isnt necessary but for safety when taking off the old strut top nuts

thats not good advice to give people, really. I am sure it can be done without the compressors but why take the chance, they rent them for free. If these people get injuries from following your (lack of) advice im sure they'll be looking for you. EDIT: perhaps with one eye. lol

yep! if you dont care about yours, at least be concerned of other peoples' safety

[SwissFerdi]

I'll probably get it, just to be safe...wouldn't want that nut denting my hood. I don't want to take a nut to the face either.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Dec 1, 2009 - 2:22 PM

[samir0189]

you dont need a spring compressor...it isnt necessary but for safety when taking off the old strut top nuts

thats not good advice to give people, really. I am sure it can be done without the compressors but why take the chance, they rent them for free. If these people get injuries from following your (lack of) advice im sure they'll be looking for you. EDIT: perhaps with one eye. lol

yep! if you dont care about yours, at least be concerned of other peoples' safety

THANK YOU for agreeing with me Nics. I thought i was looking out for my fellow 6gc-er's health, but whatever, they dont care about it, why should i?!

you spring compressor haters- Yeah, the stock celica springs are weak, i know.... Go apply your gung-ho attitude to other vehicles. especially pick-ups with struts in the front. When you break your fingers, and lose an eye, please post pics so i can LOL.

I'll probably get it, just to be safe...wouldn't want that nut denting my hood. I don't want to take a nut to the face either.

LOL

This post has been edited by samir0189: Dec 1, 2009 - 7:13 PM

[flyinglizard]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrYKdyHySJE#t=03m47s

I don't quite understand how that could break your finger or put your eye out. Especially since our springs are even weaker than the lancer ones shown in the video.

I don't have a gung-ho attitude, I'm just stating the truth since I did it myself and know from experience.

You would have to be a complete moron to attempt to try it on a truck without a compressor since their springs are under so much tension. LewFX and I are referring to our cars specifically.

[samir0189]

I am not trying to argue here with anyone..

I also have experience-- with a spring that was so stiff it broke the spring compressor and nearly my fathers fingers. And That was being safe to begin with. I'd just rather you guys tell people to do it the right way, sheesh.

Not like me saying this is gonna change anyones mind or way of doing things. so w/e. Have fun whatever you do.

And also there are times when you have to use the compressor, when the fully uncompressed spring is larger than the height of the strut, the top nut cannot be put on.

This post has been edited by samir0189: Dec 1, 2009 - 7:48 PM

[nics]

i personally do not condone not using a spring compressor in our cars but i do recommend it.

i thinks its best to encourage safety to everyone whether it can or cannot be done with a special tool like the compressor

[LewFX]

ive only lowered 3-4 celicas without one but for safety sakes use one

[nics]

yep we all know great things you've done to celicas.