Engine Rebuild/Code Problems- NEED HELP! Options

[ibanez6]

update 12/6 Car is running great! Thanks for all the help, added new knock sensor after fixing wastegate. Knock sensor codes gone as well as CEL is off.
Put on new coil pack, which solved the not re-starting when warm issue.
Thanks Again for all the help

UPDATE- After reading codes I got Codes 52 and 43
Hi,
Well, I have "inherited" my sons Celica problems. Some of you may remember the car. His screen name was Turboman23. It's a 95 Celica with 91 or 92 3sgte (not sure which at the moment).

I am trying to work on this with car with pre 1970 Chevy knowledge!
Anyways on to the history/problem(s): (Sorry for being so long)

He blew the engine. He had the bottom end rebuilt.
Dr. Tweak redid his wiring harness.
Check Engine light stays on.
When we read codes (can't remember number, sometime ago) it said Knock sensor.
He refused to drive it, has had my car for a year. I want it back. (sorry had to get it out)

I took it to a local import shop, they said they could not pull the codes, and that they had to pull them manually(???) and said the wastegate was bad causing knock sensor to "go off".

My son said they were wrong. And refused to work on it did not want to "chase parts" in trying to fixi it. He also said he did not know where to get a wastegate for it or if one was available. It has an internal wastgate.

So now to the questions:
Can a bad wastegate cause knock sensor code?
Any idea where to find one? Price?
Other reasons/fixes to correct code being thrown so CEL goes off?
Can the car be driven?[size="3"][/size]
Thanks for any help,
Lee

This post has been edited by ibanez6: Dec 6, 2009 - 8:53 AM

[Bitter]

pull the code yourself, all you need is a paperclip and to search here, infact its in the how-to's on the front page. your son is a dumb**** (sorry).

post the code, from there you can look up testing in the celica BGB's which are online at celicatech.

a stuck wastegate would cause the turbo to NOT vent and it would overboost and cause bad knock, you'd be able to see this on a boost gauge easily...he should have one to keep an eye on things..and a wideband...and some other gauges as well. infact bad knock from a stuck wastegate could have crapped his bottom end. what turb is on there? iirc the stock turbo's are internally wastegated...should be able to grab a used one from ebay or convert to a different turbo with an external waste gate (you'll need a different down pipe)

[ibanez6]

your son is a dumb**** (sorry).

My wife laughed and said "we know that! I told him not to buy the car in the first place"

pull the code yourself, ....post the code, from there you can look up testing in the celica BGB's which are online at celicatech

Will do tomorrow.

what turb is on there?

This is where I am unfimiliar with the car and Turbos. I copied this from one of his earlier post, not sure if it will help or not:
-greddy profec b spec II electonic boost controller
-Upgraded CT26

Thanks for the info on the wastegate, I do remember the guy at the import shop saying something about oil in the lines and it not opening correct or at the right time...or something like that. My son said "well thats not the problem, and it did not over boost"

If it is a CT26, are wastegates availale for these?
Is it hard/costly to convert an external ?
Thanks again for the help,
Lee

[bccentaur3]

You can find wastegate actuators on mr2oc or try check out our for sale thread. I have one for sale. Yes you have an internal wastegate, but if you remove the vacuum lines from the actuator it will keep closed and cause you to overboost.

Jump e1 to te1 on in your diagnostic box and let use know what you get.

Since your son has an electronic boost controller he probably already capped off the factory tvsv, which is the boost controller. So maybe some how oil got into the vacuum lines going to the actuator and boost controller solenoid.

[ibanez6]

You can find wastegate actuators on mr2oc or try check out our for sale thread. I have one for sale. Yes you have an internal wastegate, but if you remove the vacuum lines from the actuator it will keep closed and cause you to overboost.

Jump e1 to te1 on in your diagnostic box and let use know what you get.

Since your son has an electronic boost controller he probably already capped off the factory tvsv, which is the boost controller. So maybe some how oil got into the vacuum lines going to the actuator and boost controller solenoid.

Thanks for the help,
What are you asking for the wastegate?

[Bitter]

once you fix it you should sell it (i'll assume its in your name anyways) AND buy him a nice 10 speed huffy to 'mod up'.

[ibanez6]

once you fix it you should sell it (i'll assume its in your name anyways) AND buy him a nice 10 speed huffy to 'mod up'.

Actually that is the plan... but the 10 speed is a good Idea.

[bccentaur3]

lol.... get back to us with the code and we can most likely trouble shoot the issue.

[ibanez6]

Guys, I didn't get to the codes tonight loooong day, just now sitting day to rest.
I should have no problem tomorrow, Thanks again for the help.

[ibanez6]

I got the codes, they are 52 and 43.
I am not sure where to go from here,
So any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

This post has been edited by ibanez6: Nov 5, 2009 - 8:44 PM

[Bitter]

http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-code...1%20Decoder.htm

Code 43 No starter signal to the ecu

Code 52, 53 and 55 Knock sensor fault

When the engine is not cranked, DTC 43 (starter signal) is output, but this is not abnormal.

it could be a bad knock sensor, i've heard of them going 'deaf' due to very loud/high knock caused by improper tuning/too much boost. i would start with just throwing a knock sensor at it and driving it gently out of boost. you can just coathanger the waste gate open if it is stuck closed or the vacuum modulator is bad. unhook his boost controller from it, that could be the cause of his problems actually. plumb the wastegate up like how it should be.

[ibanez6]

http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-code...1%20Decoder.htm

Code 43 No starter signal to the ecu

Code 52, 53 and 55 Knock sensor fault

When the engine is not cranked, DTC 43 (starter signal) is output, but this is not abnormal.

it could be a bad knock sensor, i've heard of them going 'deaf' due to very loud/high knock caused by improper tuning/too much boost. i would start with just throwing a knock sensor at it and driving it gently out of boost. you can just coathanger the waste gate open if it is stuck closed or the vacuum modulator is bad. unhook his boost controller from it, that could be the cause of his problems actually. plumb the wastegate up like how it should be.

Thanks Bitter,
I will give that a try.
I should have mentioned the 43 is probably because he has a push button wired up to start the car-thats going to go.
When you said "plumb the wastegate up like how it should be." I am not sure what you meant.
Thanks

[bccentaur3]

Remove the hoses from the wastegate actuator to the boost solenoid and have one nipple from the actuator hooked up with a vacuum line to a vacuum source. Now there should be 2 vacuum nipples coming off the actuator. Cap one off and route the other to vacuum. See if the boost drops down to the wastegate actuator spring levels. Which should be around 8 psi.

[ibanez6]

Bitter and Bcccentaur,
Thanks for the help. I ran into I few things.
For boost control he has a Greddy Profec B-specII.

After looking at the manual http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/682.pdf It said to disconnect the connector and vaccum lines from selonoid valve, plug vacuum ports. Then connect a wire from the Greddy to a supplied valve (i think it controls wastgate), and 1 vaccum line from the valve to the actuator , and another to a port or nipple on intercooler pipes before the intercooler.

He does not have the selonoid disconnected. Nor does he have the wire from the Greddy to the supplied valve connected, it's just hanging there, in fact I do not see the supplied valve anywhere.

The Greddy also has a vacuum line that should be teed into the vaccum line for the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line that you cut to attach the tee.
Instead he has the vacucum from the Greddy going to the back of the Intake manifold.

I know this is not the correct setup- But could this be part of or contributing to the problems with this car?
Thanks for the education Guys.

[Bitter]

connect the boost controller up correctly as the instructions state and go from there...and make him do his own taxes in the spring.

[ibanez6]

connect the boost controller up correctly as the instructions state and go from there...and make him do his own taxes in the spring.

How did you know i did his taxes lol

[Bitter]

because judging by his car (and how its put together) he'd be in jail now for back taxes by a few years....unless someone was doing them for him.

[ibanez6]

UPDATE- Been down from shoulder surgery, My other son, added new knock sensor and opened wastgate 9to stay open) and code went away. Thanks for the help.
Now we just have to find out why sometimes it doesn't want to restart after driving. New battery- but jump always does the trick, although seems to take longer at sometimes then others.
Anyways, Thanks Againn

[Mstoochn]

in other words, if u run it then try and start it mid-temp or warm is wont start or it will stutter when it starts?
more info plz.

[ibanez6]

in other words, if u run it then try and start it mid-temp or warm is wont start or it will stutter when it starts?
more info plz.

yes, from what i understand this is what he is running into. I will ask for more detail when he gets home. As mentioned just having surgery i have not been able to mess with the car, so what i know is second hand.

[Mstoochn]

same problem i have/had, My fix is turn the key to the ON position for 5 seconds then start it. Works every time.

[ibanez6]

same problem i have/had, My fix is turn the key to the ON position for 5 seconds then start it. Works every time.

He said, that is what he has done before, but it seems to be getting worse.
He thinks its the coil, when it does not start there is no spark until car sets (cools down?) a bit. Then it starts again

[ibanez6]

update Car is running great! Thanks for all the help, added new knock sensor after fixing wastegate. Knock sensor codes gone as well as CEL is off.
Put on new coil pack, which solved the not re-starting when warm issue.
Thanks Again for all the help

[Bitter]

so is it pretty fun to drive? i bet he wants it back now.

[turboman23]

so is it pretty fun to drive? i bet he wants it back now.

why yes it is very fun to drive. it has always been my car and in my name. next time leave your comments to yourself.

That being said, i would like to thank everybody else on here for helping out, even long after i had given up on the car.

[Bitter]

so is it pretty fun to drive? i bet he wants it back now.

why yes it is very fun to drive. it has always been my car and in my name. next time leave your comments to yourself.

That being said, i would like to thank everybody else on here for helping out, even long after i had given up on the car.

but you gave up on fixing it and your dad had to do it for you. you had some very simple problems and just threw in the towel. had the roles been reversed i bet you'd be saying it was your car now.

[turboman23]

but you gave up on fixing it and your dad had to do it for you. you had some very simple problems and just threw in the towel. had the roles been reversed i bet you'd be saying it was your car now.

i didnt just "throw in the towel". simply put, when it came down to it, the car was not a priority. i had to make the responsible choice and put my bills and debts first.



This post has been edited by turboman23: Dec 6, 2009 - 4:48 PM

[Bitter]

but you gave up on fixing it and your dad had to do it for you. you had some very simple problems and just threw in the towel. had the roles been reversed i bet you'd be saying it was your car now.

i didnt just "throw in the towel". simply put, when it came down to it, the car was not a priority. i had to make the responsible choice and put my bills and debts first.

thats not what your dad was saying

[turboman23]

but you gave up on fixing it and your dad had to do it for you. you had some very simple problems and just threw in the towel. had the roles been reversed i bet you'd be saying it was your car now.

i didnt just "throw in the towel". simply put, when it came down to it, the car was not a priority. i had to make the responsible choice and put my bills and debts first.

thats not what your dad was saying

i am not my dad. he does not pay my bills. how would he know about my finances any more than i do?

Now please grow up and stop cluttering these forums with all your unhelpful remarks.