6G Celicas Forums

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Clutch and Rear Main Seal Install How-To
post May 19, 2010 - 12:08 PM
+Quote Post
bsamps4

Enthusiast
****
Joined May 16, '10
From Raleigh
Currently Offline

Reputation: 12 (100%)




Hello everyone. I'm new to the 6gc world and would like everyone to know how grateful I am for websites like this that offer a wealth of information to consumers. Websites like these not only save you time, but a lot of money as well.

I recently purchased a 94 celica with the knowledge that it needs a new clutch. The car has 215,000 miles, but is still driveable. I can't really have much fun with the car yet due to the fact that the clutch slips in every gear at about 30% throttle. I'm interested to see if anyone would be interested in me making a "How-To" article on the installation of my clutch, rear main seal, and axle. I will need some insight from the senior members of this site ofcourse, but I would certaintly love to start out my celica experience with a bang, and offer some help to other members who may be interested in doing this themselves as well.

I do however have a few questions that I would like to propose for my own personal knowledge. Best transmission fluid? where? how much? Decent brand of axle? where? how much?

The clutch that I will be using is an Exedy stock style clutch which includes pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bearing, and I will be resurfacing the flywheel NOT replacing. I want to keep my costs as low as possible because I will be swapping a 3sgte dual entry turbo motor into the car in months to come. I will be reusing my 5sfe tranny for the swap, but don't want to cause my current ageing motor to become overstressed, and break unexpectedly.

Let me know what you think, and thanks again!


--------------------
 
Start new topic
Replies (1 - 10)
post May 19, 2010 - 2:13 PM
+Quote Post
GriffGirl



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Feb 7, '07
From Portland, Oregon
Currently Offline

Reputation: 67 (96%)




Replacing the clutch isn't an easy task - well, actually, it's not hard, per se, but it's labor intensive. I'm not sure if there's an actual "how to" on the site, but if you check the How-To section under Engine/Transmission/Maintenance, there is a link http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=34164 that has basic info.

When I had to replace my clutch, I actually used the Haynes manual; it's probably one of the few things that the manual was actually really great for. I would strongly advise getting both the Haynes and the Chilton manuals for your car, as sometimes they supplement each other well when one is missing details.

As for how you're going about it, you're already on the right path. I did the same, went with the Exedy OEM style clutch kit, which is key. You absolutely MUST replace the throwout bearing! So many people just opt for the clutch plate, and then wind up having to do the job twice. Lame.

Also, resurfacing your flywheel is totally acceptable if you're not replacing it, which in your case, unless it's just damaged to hell, is totally adequate for your purposes. Again, so many people skimp out on resurfacing the flywheel, which is just a lame thing to do and generally a BAD idea. The flywheel MUST MUST MUST be resurfaced.

I'm not sure what "brand" of axle is best, different people have differing opinions. If it were me, I'd probably just go to NAPA or possibly Autozone and get one. From what I understand, they're fine. But you might want to consider the opinion of others as well before making that decision.

Regarding transmission fluid, I cannot highly enough recommend using Penzoil Synchromesh. A lot of people on the site use it, and in my experience, it is hands-down the best fluid to use for our cars. Autozone carries it (NAPA does not, I don't think). It's a little more expensive than other brands, but I will absolutely attest that I have noticed the difference. When I did my clutch, I used it, but then I had an axle seal go out on me, so I had to drain and refill, but I couldn't get Synchromesh, so I used something else. The result was notchy shifting and just not as smooth transitions. Needless to say the first chance I had, I bought more Synchromesh, and drained it again and refilled it with the Synchromesh, thus restoring the smooth shifts and transitions back to my VERY aged transmission (265k miles and going strong!) Cost is about $8/bottle, you'll need 4-5 bottles IIRC.

Good luck! Oh, and yes, while you're in there, REPLACE THAT REAR MAIN SEAL! Just order that from Toyota, the difference in cost between Toyota and a parts store is negligible, and it's not worth getting an aftermarket brand in my opinion.


--------------------
post May 19, 2010 - 7:55 PM
+Quote Post
samir0189



Enthusiast
****
Joined Mar 8, '08
From Orlando, Florida
Currently Offline

Reputation: 14 (100%)




welcome.

As far as the axle question, i really like the cardone brand that carquest sells. It is much thicker than OEM and the cv boots have extra pleats. I got it NEW not rebuilt, and no core for $70 ish, i think.

alot of people here seem happy with the synchromesh, i never tried it, i used mobil 1 fully synthetic 75-90 and never had an issue.


--------------------
My F/S Thread!

QUOTE
(14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out.

QUOTE
Ferdi says (11:29)
No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings.
post May 20, 2010 - 1:45 PM
+Quote Post
bsamps4

Enthusiast
****
Joined May 16, '10
From Raleigh
Currently Offline

Reputation: 12 (100%)




Thanks to the two of you who have responded. I still think i'm going to do a write up on the procedure, and maybe add some video clips myself. I'm def going to try the synchromesh, and i'll take that axle into great consideration. I live 2 minutes from a carquest, and 2 minutes from a toyota dealership. Love it!


--------------------
post May 20, 2010 - 5:24 PM
+Quote Post
samir0189



Enthusiast
****
Joined Mar 8, '08
From Orlando, Florida
Currently Offline

Reputation: 14 (100%)




Oh! and you may want to replace the axle seals while you are there! I think those were around $12 a side, but get it from toyota!!! I had tried all other auto parts places and no one seems to give the right size seal for the celica. rolleyes.gif


--------------------
My F/S Thread!

QUOTE
(14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out.

QUOTE
Ferdi says (11:29)
No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings.
post Sep 15, 2011 - 7:50 AM
+Quote Post
foxcraze

Enthusiast
*
Joined Jul 26, '08
From Fort Bragg, NC
Currently Offline

Reputation: 2 (100%)




ressurection, When replacing the main seal can i take the axle out without being covered in fluid. after i had clutch replaced i forgot to have the seal replaced as well and after a week its now leaking. Can i just raise the drivers side and be safe to remove the axle and not be covered in fluid?


--------------------
post Sep 15, 2011 - 8:29 AM
+Quote Post
bsamps4

Enthusiast
****
Joined May 16, '10
From Raleigh
Currently Offline

Reputation: 12 (100%)




No. You will need to drain the transmission first, replace the seal, then refill.


--------------------
post Sep 15, 2011 - 8:55 AM
+Quote Post
Keiri



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Mar 6, '04
From Charlotte, NC
Currently Offline

Reputation: 9 (100%)




QUOTE (foxcraze @ Sep 15, 2011 - 8:50 AM) *
ressurection, When replacing the main seal can i take the axle out without being covered in fluid. after i had clutch replaced i forgot to have the seal replaced as well and after a week its now leaking. Can i just raise the drivers side and be safe to remove the axle and not be covered in fluid?


Off Topic:

Fox, you back in the States? If so, welcome home and lemme know if you finally want to do that meet-up - I should be in town this weekend and next.

On Topic:

Ben's correct.


--------------------
Has no more Celicas
post Sep 15, 2011 - 1:34 PM
+Quote Post
foxcraze

Enthusiast
*
Joined Jul 26, '08
From Fort Bragg, NC
Currently Offline

Reputation: 2 (100%)




haha yeah man i am back finally got in a few weeks ago trying to get the car road worthy again lol I will def hit you up once i get this thing fixed i guess i gotta go buy a oil hand pump kit now blahh. thanks fellas


--------------------
post Sep 15, 2011 - 8:48 PM
+Quote Post
KAOS



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Apr 18, '06
From Calgary, Canada
Currently Offline

Reputation: 37 (100%)




QUOTE (foxcraze @ Sep 15, 2011 - 12:34 PM) *
haha yeah man i am back finally got in a few weeks ago trying to get the car road worthy again lol I will def hit you up once i get this thing fixed i guess i gotta go buy a oil hand pump kit now blahh. thanks fellas


Fox - any chance you have those part #'s handy for the seals?


--------------------
post Sep 24, 2011 - 3:22 AM
+Quote Post
kamax

Enthusiast
**
Joined Apr 29, '03
From lynn,ma
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




QUOTE (KAOS @ Sep 15, 2011 - 7:48 PM) *
QUOTE (foxcraze @ Sep 15, 2011 - 12:34 PM) *
haha yeah man i am back finally got in a few weeks ago trying to get the car road worthy again lol I will def hit you up once i get this thing fixed i guess i gotta go buy a oil hand pump kit now blahh. thanks fellas


Fox - any chance you have those part #'s handy for the seals?


partnumber can be found in this thread if it's any help to you

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=67291

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



Lo-Fi Version Time is now: May 28th, 2025 - 4:01 PM