Car Progress Thread v2.0, Replacing rusted out quarter panel... yay body work. Options

[jcbass7]

Well you've got to start somewhere and this is my second time starting. Nonetheless, the celica's from my past are all part of the story that has led me to this one and finally being able to complete the project I have been dreaming of. They are also contributing a lot of parts and lessons learned to get this car how I want it. I bought this car in September 2010 and will be marking my progress routinely with many pictures.

Here is the baseline. The starting point. The blank Canvas. I'm giving you a full snapshot into its original condition from when I bought it. Flaws and all. This way the you can see the progress it makes as I fix the little details and add the JDM/TRD goodies.

94' Celica GT Hatchback
-Stock 5SFE
-Stock ABS Brakes
-Stock Premium Sound
-Stock Suspension
-Stock Exterior
-Stock Interior


EXTERIOR:











INTERIOR:







UNDER THE HOOD:






Here is the progress thread for my first build a few years back.. Learned a lot on that project:
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...3997&st=280
(A good read if you are bored at work, lots of parts, pics, problems and even a fire)

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Dec 6, 2012 - 10:29 AM

[jcbass7]

CURRENT CONDITION: (compare to above!)

Mods/Work to date:
-TRD sport suspension (rear, haven't gotten front done yet)
-7th gen short shifter
-4th gen shift knob
-Performance shifter bushings (shifter base)
-17" TSW rims
-Alpine Head unit
-TRD radiator cap
-Blue Clock
-ST205 Gauge Cluster
-TRD 300 km/h Speedometer
-Blue LED w/ Clear Door Courtesy Lenses
-JDM Taillights
-DCW Dual Shift Boot Pod
-Prosport Exhaust Temp Gauge Blue
-Prosport Voltage Gauge Blue/White
-Blox Torch Blue 450 gram Weighted Shift Knob
-GT4 Front Bumper
-JDM Clear High Beams








This post has been edited by jcbass7: Nov 11, 2010 - 10:28 PM

[DEATH]

Nice addition!
What happened to the other two? Or are you just starting another one?

[jcbass7]

So this past weekend I was working mostly on the vette, but had a chance to do a few very small things on the celica.

Progress:
-Fixed the uneven gas lid
-Disconnected the cheap aftermarket alarm (that kept going off when I didn't want it to)
-Put in a different driver's leather seat (the leather that is in there is very stiff)
-Cleaned underneath the shifter area
-Started install of 7th gen short shifter
-Installed aluminum shifter base bushings
-Installed TRD Radiator Cap
-Started removing stock head unit (and both amplifiers)
-Started wiring in my new head unit

PICS










This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 4, 2010 - 12:15 PM

[jcbass7]

Nice addition!
What happened to the other two? Or are you just starting another one?

-The 3s black hatchback has been dismantled and the shell was junked (too much rust and a bad mold problem in the interior)
PIC




-The black coupe I still own, but will be selling soon. I never liked the coupe's as much as the hatchbacks. I will be swapping some things over from that car though.
PIC




I have a LOT of fun stuff to put onto this car, but will keep most of it quiet until its on there. Keeps it interesting... I bet anyone who has seen my previous Celi's will know most of the parts I will be tossing on there... (the previous two cars pictured above kinda give a lot of it away)

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 4, 2010 - 12:27 PM

[SwissFerdi]

Oh, I don't know...maybe the GT-FOUR parts and the 3S? Just a random guess, no idea why you'd want to do that though...

Good luck.

[DEATH]

OK I gotta ask - you have 2 sets of projectors headlights and will soon only have one Celica - sell me a set?

Oh! And excellent job on the shifter area cleanup Mine looks like people been sitting in there eating

This post has been edited by DEATH: Oct 4, 2010 - 2:06 PM

[jcbass7]

OK I gotta ask - you have 2 sets of projectors headlights and will soon only have one Celica - sell me a set?

Oh! And excellent job on the shifter area cleanup Mine looks like people been sitting in there eating

haha, I wish I had a set to sell you, but that's the same set. The hatch picture is from 07 (last time the car was on the road) and the coupe picture is from 09. I put the rims and headlights from the hatch onto the coupe since the hatch never made it back on the road.

The shifter surround wasn't too bad, I found a dog treat, a nickel and a red pen. Get anything good in yours?

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 4, 2010 - 4:37 PM

[jcbass7]

Oh, I don't know...maybe the GT-FOUR parts and the 3S? Just a random guess, no idea why you'd want to do that though...

Good luck.

Well you've got some of it haha

The 3S is missing the following items (sold them)
-Mass Air Flow Sensor
-CT-26
-Downpipe
-Exhaust Manifold
-IC and piping

I'm undecided if I want to rebuild it (since its half apart right now anyway) and then get new stuff for it, or just go out and buy a 3rd Gen 3S..

Anyone want to convince me in either direction? Saving money would be the priority at this point.

[mkernz22]

I just gotta say good luck with everything!

On a side note, what's up with you and '94's? lmao

[jcbass7]

I just gotta say good luck with everything!

On a side note, what's up with you and '94's? lmao

I wonder that myself sometimes

I choose 94' or 95' over the later years because they are ODB1 and easier to pass emissions/inspections in MA. The newer the car, the more laws regarding what you can do to it. Somehow I just kept ending up with Celica's. One to drive, one to work on and one to use as a parts car, sell/junk one and the cycle repeats.

[mkernz22]

I would only go with 94 or 95's for that same reasonn.
I'm not sure if you would know, but if I took the engine from my 97 parts car and put it in my 95, would I have to convert my 95 to ODB2?
Reason I want to do it is that I'm doing an a2m swap and that engine has about 100k less than the one in my car right now

[jcbass7]

I would only go with 94 or 95's for that same reasonn.
I'm not sure if you would know, but if I took the engine from my 97 parts car and put it in my 95, would I have to convert my 95 to ODB2?
Reason I want to do it is that I'm doing an a2m swap and that engine has about 100k less than the one in my car right now

I'm not totally sure, but the wiring harness might be different? Someone on here will definitely know that answer, but I'm unfamiliar with anything but the 94's

[EKAn]

That coupe is defiantly hot!

[jcbass7]

That coupe is defiantly hot!

Yea I love the look, and I have a lip that I put on it in the summers as well, but I really don't want to build up a coupe. I'm a sucker for the hatchbacks, but somehow I keep getting stuck with coupes. Thats why I got the red one. I wanted to get back into the turbo world and couldn't convince myself to turbo the coupe.

[EKAn]

As a coupe owner I'm bias, but either way i know this car will turn out a beast especially with the 3s under there, what happened to getting a GT4 from Canada? did that ever work out?

[dudeofchaos]

Are you selling your OEM head unit?

[jcbass7]

As a coupe owner I'm bias, but either way i know this car will turn out a beast especially with the 3s under there, what happened to getting a GT4 from Canada? did that ever work out?

I looked into it and even contacted some of the importers in Canada. There is still a lot of red-tape, and I ended up buying the vette with the money I would have done it with. So that axed that idea. I'll just do my best to build one (eventually). Starting small... like TRD radiator cap small haha

Are you selling your OEM head unit?

sorry I am not selling the oem unit

[dudeofchaos]

Awhhh crap

[jcbass7]

So I don't remember what this guy is.. my best guess is part of the cruise control or ABS system?

[Batman722]

yes sir, ABS.

[jcbass7]

So I did a lot of work this weekend, I will post pics tonight. I didn't finish everything I wanted, but its getting there. I am having an audio problem though..

I removed both factory amps (premium 8spk sound system) and installed my aftermarket head unit. I wired it exactly the same way I had it in the other celica and it isn't playing correctly. I only hear sound from the two 4" door speakers and I can only hear it when I turn it up to maximum (and then its still very quiet).

I am curious to why I am not getting sound in any other speakers and why its so faint. Could the system just demand so much more power since their are 8 speakers and two of them 8"? I would still think the two rear speakers would be playing though?

Any thoughts?

[DEATH]

Yeah Bro - that's not your problem. The first sytem I converted waaaay back when had the same issue until I found out [thru this site - it's why I initially came here back in '03 LOL] that I had to remove the stock amplifiers. You say you already did that so I am at a loss here.
The only thing I can say is 8 stock speakers will not be too much for any decent H/U

This post has been edited by DEATH: Oct 11, 2010 - 1:23 PM

[jcbass7]

Yeah Bro - that's not your problem. The first sytem I converted waaaay back when had the same issue until I found out [thru this site - it's why I initially came here back in '03 LOL] that I had to remove the stock amplifiers. You say you already did that so I am at a loss here.
The only thing I can say is 8 stock speakers will not be too much for any decent H/U

Thanks man, at least that eliminates that concern. I'm at a loss as well since it was an entirely stock system I removed and replaced with wiring that was working in my other celi? I did run into one problem though, when I was installing it I wasn't getting any power to the radio and checked the fuse under the hood. Well there is a blank looking fuse in the middle of the box and they guy before me had put a 7.5 there. It must have fried during my install (shorted probably). I placed the blank looking fuse that is supposed to be there, back in its place and then the power was back on. Maybe I need to check some other fuses while I'm at it.

The only radio related fuses are the two in the engine bay and the one under the dash correct?

[DEATH]

The only radio related fuses are the two in the engine bay and the one under the dash correct?

Correct

[jcbass7]

The only radio related fuses are the two in the engine bay and the one under the dash correct?

Correct

haha bummer.. i was hoping there was one i forgot and that would solve all my problems

Thanks for the help so far Death

[jcbass7]

Well I figured out part of the problem. There was a small switch on the back of the radio that switched between "norm" and "ext ap" which I assume means exterior amp? or something to that effect. Anywho that got the volume back to normal. But I am still only getting sound from the two four inch speakers. The 8's, tweet's and rears are silent. This problem might have been present before the new head unit though.

Any ideas on that front?

[DEATH]

Rewire it all bro - you got the interior half gutted anyway. It's the only way to be sure you are starting with everything working. Put some good quality wire in there and call it a day.

[jcbass7]

Rewire it all bro - you got the interior half gutted anyway. It's the only way to be sure you are starting with everything working. Put some good quality wire in there and call it a day.

Sounds like a decent idea actually. So if I only have front right, front left, rear right, rear left speaker wires coming out of my head unit, how do I wire in 8 speakers? Can I just wire a few in parallel?

[95st-celica]

i installed a "flip out" head unit in my car and never had a problem with the nosie, but seeing that you got that figured out, thats good. Now onto problem 2. I have JL 5" speakers in my doors, and kennwood tweeters. When i installed them the 5" JL's came with crossovers, for the tweeters. Are you using crossovers? do you have any wires bridged anywhere, or spliced into another speaker? I have come to find out that audio wireing, yet simple, can still be complex, and the sound will not be as good/clear if you dont have a very neat, clean set up. Check all your wireing again, i know its a pain in the ass, but there might be somewhere that some solder came off the back of the speaker and it has a loose connection, or the wires are toucing and grounding out, hence no sound. i didnt have tweeters in my car, so i dont know if the stock tweeters come with crossovers, but i would look into that as well. check to see that the crossover is wired up correctly, into the tweeter, into the speaker, and the wires are going in the right slots on crossover. (or an aftermarket AMP if that applys to you.)

[jcbass7]

i installed a "flip out" head unit in my car and never had a problem with the nosie, but seeing that you got that figured out, thats good. Now onto problem 2. I have JL 5" speakers in my doors, and kennwood tweeters. When i installed them the 5" JL's came with crossovers, for the tweeters. Are you using crossovers? do you have any wires bridged anywhere, or spliced into another speaker? I have come to find out that audio wireing, yet simple, can still be complex, and the sound will not be as good/clear if you dont have a very neat, clean set up. Check all your wireing again, i know its a pain in the ass, but there might be somewhere that some solder came off the back of the speaker and it has a loose connection, or the wires are toucing and grounding out, hence no sound. i didnt have tweeters in my car, so i dont know if the stock tweeters come with crossovers, but i would look into that as well. check to see that the crossover is wired up correctly, into the tweeter, into the speaker, and the wires are going in the right slots on crossover. (or an aftermarket AMP if that applys to you.)

I'll have to check into all of this later, but that might help find the problem. Currently the only change from stock on the entire set-up is I removed the two factory amps and installed my aftermarket head unit. (Alpine IDA something)

[DEATH]

Rewire it all bro - you got the interior half gutted anyway. It's the only way to be sure you are starting with everything working. Put some good quality wire in there and call it a day.

Sounds like a decent idea actually. So if I only have front right, front left, rear right, rear left speaker wires coming out of my head unit, how do I wire in 8 speakers? Can I just wire a few in parallel?

You could but IIRC there is something like a stock passive crossover in or before the doors - I could be wrong tho bro - it's been a minimum 6 years since I had any stock components

[jcbass7]

Rewire it all bro - you got the interior half gutted anyway. It's the only way to be sure you are starting with everything working. Put some good quality wire in there and call it a day.

Sounds like a decent idea actually. So if I only have front right, front left, rear right, rear left speaker wires coming out of my head unit, how do I wire in 8 speakers? Can I just wire a few in parallel?

You could but IIRC there is something like a stock passive crossover in or before the doors - I could be wrong tho bro - it's been a minimum 6 years since I had any stock components

So.. for example I run the front right to the passenger door (duh) and connect to the crossover and from the crossover it hits all three speakers in the door? I know only the basics of car audio, I had to google what a crossover was.. haha

[DEATH]

Rewire it all bro - you got the interior half gutted anyway. It's the only way to be sure you are starting with everything working. Put some good quality wire in there and call it a day.

Sounds like a decent idea actually. So if I only have front right, front left, rear right, rear left speaker wires coming out of my head unit, how do I wire in 8 speakers? Can I just wire a few in parallel?

You could but IIRC there is something like a stock passive crossover in or before the doors - I could be wrong tho bro - it's been a minimum 6 years since I had any stock components

So.. for example I run the front right to the passenger door (duh) and connect to the crossover and from the crossover it hits all three speakers in the door? I know only the basics of car audio, I had to google what a crossover was.. haha

Just run it to your door - replace everything along the way but look out for a passive. See if that fixs the fronts. If not keep going [I'd keep going anyway just for the newness].
then repeat with rear speakers.
if none of that fixes it it's the speakers or the H/U

[jcbass7]

Just run it to your door - replace everything along the way but look out for a passive. See if that fixs the fronts. If not keep going [I'd keep going anyway just for the newness].
then repeat with rear speakers.
if none of that fixes it it's the speakers or the H/U

Sounds like a plan, next chance I get I'll tackle that. In the mean time I need to install a few other goodies. One of them is in my sig, just gotta repin the cluster for it tomorrow.


Pictures of some TRD goodies on the car will be up tonight.

[jcbass7]

I had a chance to get some more done on the car this weekend while the weather was nice.

Progress:
-Finished installing the short shifter (w/ 4th gen celica shift knob)
-Installed aftermarket Alpine head unit
-Removed the cheap aftermarket fog lamps
-Installed the center console cover (the thick fancy one)
-Installed my TSW 17" rims
-Swapped out the rear suspension for TRD springs (didn't have time to do the front yet)

PICS

Interior Stuff


Removing parts from coupe





^still can't decide if I want to put the 404's on the car or get stock skirts...


In progress



Installed on Hatch (rims and rear TRD springs)





Here is what the drop in the front will look like....



She looks like a monster truck right now with the front still sitting on stock springs. I need to roll the rear fenders since she is rubbing a bit. I didn't expect the rubbing since this same set-up on the coupe didn't rub once, and it started right away on the hatch. I looked and noticed their is a small dent that pushed the lip in a bit and is probably the main reason its touching on this car, since it is only that side.

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 11, 2010 - 10:18 PM

[3WayStunna]

Oh, I don't know...maybe the GT-FOUR parts and the 3S? Just a random guess, no idea why you'd want to do that though...

Good luck.

Well you've got some of it haha

The 3S is missing the following items (sold them)
-Mass Air Flow Sensor
-CT-26
-Downpipe
-Exhaust Manifold
-IC and piping

I'm undecided if I want to rebuild it (since its half apart right now anyway) and then get new stuff for it, or just go out and buy a 3rd Gen 3S..

Anyone want to convince me in either direction? Saving money would be the priority at this point.

Well considering my other thread about a 2nd gen in a junkyard near me....if you need either the turbo/MAF sensor or IC with piping let me know.....rather have someone buy parts from the engine instead of seeing it junked in a week or two.

[jcbass7]

Well considering my other thread about a 2nd gen in a junkyard near me....if you need either the turbo/MAF sensor or IC with piping let me know.....rather have someone buy parts from the engine instead of seeing it junked in a week or two.

thanks for the offer, I'm going to hold off on any 3s stuff at the moment. I've got to decide on what my options are and then plan it all out accordingly.

[jcbass7]

So I was told the front brakes on the coupe (when i bought it) were from a 7th gen. I took a few pics to see what you guys think. They definitely are a little different, but I wonder if they are an upgrade?

Here are the pics:

Stock



7th Gen??

[Johnnyny]

404's!!!

[jcbass7]

404's!!!

I'm leaning towards it... I've got the Euro front lip for the gt-4 bumper. I could do the 404's and then figure something out for the rear... not sure what yet

[jcbass7]

Well I tried to do a little tonight, but got some done and messed up the rest..

Progress:
-Installed clear courtesy lenses w/ blue LED's
-Installed aftermarket antenna since I hate the stock one
-Discovered why I had such bad rust behind the rear driver side wheel...
-ATTEMPTED to install my ST205 cluster with TRD speedometer.. epic fail for tonight

first the courtesy lenses...



The antenna..

remove stock..



Aftermarket antenna (until I shave the hole)


and the rust culprit..


the antenna must have been replaced, because the old drain hose was still in there, but the new antenna was put in without the hose being routed out of the void. Therefore the water that dripped in just sat in their and rusted the bottom out.... its pretty bad, but ill fix it..

the rust......




and the fun stuff



I got it all pinned out for a European cluster, but it doesn't work at all. I need to go check it tomorrow. I had the door ajar lights stuck on and none of the gauges would work. I put it in far enough to just test it. I'll attack it again tomorrow when its light out. (maybe i just popped the gauge panel fuse? I couldn't get the gauge lights to come on either)

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 13, 2010 - 8:40 PM

[mkernz22]

My rust hole is in the same spot! Sh!t now I have to figure out where drain rubber is cause I dont recall seeing it

[BonzaiCelica]

yes water fills up in the same spot but mines on the passenger side. I thankfully found the drain plug and have it open at all times so the water runs through whenever I wash my car or it rains

[jcbass7]

yea its on the to-do list to fix that spot. I'll shave the rear wiper and antenna when I'm at it, but for now I need to get the ST205 cluster working..

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 14, 2010 - 8:14 AM

[mkernz22]

i might shave mine too so that it wont rust out again. I have to wait to put my rear splitters on cause one of the mounting holes is right there

[HectortheRican]

Good luck with the ST205 cluster! Are you wanting to make it a 5SFTE or swap in a 3rd gen? Cuz that boost gauge will be kinda useless

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Oct 15, 2010 - 2:32 AM

[jcbass7]

Good luck with the ST205 cluster! Are you wanting to make it a 5SFTE or swap in a 3rd gen? Cuz that boost gauge will be kinda useless

The boost gauge is kinda useless even if you are turbo'd. I'm going to put in a 3s. I still have one on an engine stand in my basement. Not anytime soon though, maybe in the spring..

[jcbass7]

Well I checked the fuses and they were all good... so I didn't break one of those while wiring. This means my problem is with my re-pinning of the cluster or with the cluster itself... I'm going to cross reference the USDM harness with where they need to be plugged into the European cluster. (I bought the cluster from England, so I am assuming its a European cluster)

The symptoms I've received so far are.. I plug it in and the only thing that happens is there are two lights that stay on on the left side. Then when I try to turn on the headlights, the rear foglamps? light on the cluster turns on, but none of the gauges glow. None of the gauges move when I rev the engine or anything like that.

Pics of my re-pinned clips:





any thoughts?

https://acrobat.com/#d=nxgMRCtdQxmOSlbtG2Hqpg

^using that to look at USDM side of things (pg 175)

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 15, 2010 - 7:12 AM

[Veilside01]

Hi guys, following this thread with interest.

I've already cleaned out my shifter base - found a couple of coins plus chewing gum wrappers. And I want to add an aftermarket aerial mast at some point - the present one is jammed.

Best of luck with fitting the new clusters! Mine has Lockwood aftermarket white dials already fitted with green illumination.

http://www.lockwoodinternational.co.uk/ima..._gt4_import.jpg

[jcbass7]

Hi guys, following this thread with interest.

I've already cleaned out my shifter base - found a couple of coins plus chewing gum wrappers. And I want to add an aftermarket aerial mast at some point - the present one is jammed.

Best of luck with fitting the new clusters! Mine has Lockwood aftermarket white dials already fitted with green illumination.

http://www.lockwoodinternational.co.uk/ima..._gt4_import.jpg

Thanks! Great looking gauges you've got there. I like the speedometer a lot.

[jcbass7]

Here is where I'm at...

STOCK USDM CLUSTER..






ST205 EUROPEAN CLUSTER....

[jcbass7]

So part of me feels like I should just put the rpm gauge and speedo into my USDM housing. Would be a lot easier. I have no need for the boost gauge right now or anytime soon. Its more of a novelty to have the whole ST205 cluster in there? but I guess I really don't need any other parts of it but the speedo and tach...

[jcbass7]

Bammmm just talked to the member I purchased it from and its a Japanese cluster. I'll re-pin it for that and see how it works!

[cyprus_gt]

So part of me feels like I should just put the rpm gauge and speedo into my USDM housing. Would be a lot easier. I have no need for the boost gauge right now or anytime soon. Its more of a novelty to have the whole ST205 cluster in there? but I guess I really don't need any other parts of it but the speedo and tach...

mate,
i can make you a picture of my JDM speedo connectors - ok it's a gt, but should be ok for the speedometer and tacho....

Dimitri

[jcbass7]

So part of me feels like I should just put the rpm gauge and speedo into my USDM housing. Would be a lot easier. I have no need for the boost gauge right now or anytime soon. Its more of a novelty to have the whole ST205 cluster in there? but I guess I really don't need any other parts of it but the speedo and tach...

mate,
i can make you a picture of my JDM speedo connectors - ok it's a gt, but should be ok for the speedometer and tacho....

Dimitri

Dimitri,

That would be awesome! That would give me something to reference it with. How's the new cluster treating you? I love the new one you had put together for you, looks amazing!

[jcbass7]

Well I got closer. I re-pinned it to the Japanese cluster specs and most of it works. There are still a few problems..

-Speedo starts off at 70km/h (is at zero when car is off)
-water temp gauge maxed out
-boost gauge maxed out
-fuel gauge pegged at zero

But, the blue LED's look great as well as the orange LED turn signals.

PICS:

my guide to go from stock to European to Japanese




off




on

[HectortheRican]

Soooo close!! Just some more work man! It looks great.

[jcbass7]

It looks so good at night with the orange turn indicators and the blue cluster. I can't snap a picture to show you how nice it is, but anyone who has put LED's in their cluster knows what I am talking about. I need to figure out whats wrong with the gauges because its clocking up the mileage fast since it thinks when I'm driving at 5mph im doing 60....

anyone know where to get the wiring diagram for a japanese ST205? I need to compare the combo meter wiring with what I have done myself (from the sticky thread)

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 15, 2010 - 8:58 PM

[cyprus_gt]

ok...as i promised here the links of the fotos of my Automatic st202 speedo - JDM (i don't wanet to fill it up your thread with these fotos so you can see it here:

first one from left to right at the back of the speedo:
http://vwfreak.snimka.bg/automobiles/toyot...278199.21061609

second one - one side:
http://vwfreak.snimka.bg/automobiles/toyot...278199.21061619

second one other side:
http://vwfreak.snimka.bg/automobiles/toyot...278199.21061621

number 3 from left to right at the back of the speedo:
http://vwfreak.snimka.bg/automobiles/toyot...278199.21061622

nuber 4 from left to right at the back of the speed:
http://vwfreak.snimka.bg/automobiles/toyot...278199.21061607

i hope to help this fotos

cheers

Dimitri

This post has been edited by cyprus_gt: Oct 16, 2010 - 4:56 PM

[jcbass7]

Thanks Dimitri!

So I fought with it some more today. I fixed a small fitment issue and got both the fuel level and water temp gauges working. I also unscrewed the connections to the boost gauge so it would not stay pegged all the way out. I found a few errors in the sticky how to for this and will post those later.

The speedo is still reading 70 km/h when at zero and now the illumination is not working. I will put my old speedo in the cluster to test it.

A proper weekend progress report will be posted up soon.

[jcbass7]

made some progress.. and some more teaser pics.. I discovered my oem 8'' speakers were blown (maybe disconnected by previous owner, and hence no sound out of them)

I also suspect my TRD speedometer to be off.. I plugged my stock one back in and it worked just fine in the ST205 cluster..

Progress:
-Properly installed ST205 Cluster
-Fixed fitment issue on gauges
-Installed blue clock







fitment issue, notice it pitchs down towards the speedo too much..


Made some plastic spacers and fixed it..

back of ST205



^^The sticky had this section wrong, I had to trace it out using the circuit board on the back to fix the fuel and water temp gauges. I'll add something to the sticky soon.

Teaser... More JDM goodies to go on soon:


swapping for better button..

[HectortheRican]

It's those little teeny things that make me jealous that's so awesome

[jcbass7]

It's those little teeny things that make me jealous that's so awesome

The fun part is gonna be trying to wire the whole thing in there... atleast I'll be busy haha

[jcbass7]

So I have a few questions:

A. How do you remove the needle off of a speedometer?

B. Can I send the TRD speedo somewhere to be recalibrated? i=If so what does it usually cost?

C. Where is the stock passive crossover for the door speakers?

[DEATH]

Contact member stephen_lee - he cracked the speedo deal using a tone from a cellphone or some BS - It's crazy but apparantly an easy fix and one you can trust as well.
Glad you got the speaker thing sorted - I started to say something but figured you would have checked the speakers condition first LOL. Good luck with the rest

[jcbass7]

Contact member stephen_lee - he cracked the speedo deal using a tone from a cellphone or some BS - It's crazy but apparently an easy fix and one you can trust as well.
Glad you got the speaker thing sorted - I started to say something but figured you would have checked the speakers condition first LOL. Good luck with the rest

Just found and read his how to, very impressive. I still wonder though if my problem is with it being misaligned, or something electrically off within the speedo. It reads zero with no power, but with the key in it jumps to 70km/h. I wonder if it is receiving some signal that does this? or if its just off and there is supposed to be more tension on the spring when its against the peg at zero.

I bought the TRD speedo from a guy on ebay (Japan) with 2 km on it. so its possible someone dialed back the mileage and then put the needle on wrong?

[jcbass7]

ok so i did a quick little test. I am confident the needle is not in the correct place. There needs to be more tension in the needle spring. I moved the needle of my stock gauge and let it go at 100 km/h (60mph) and it took exactly two seconds to hit the peg. I did the same thing with the TRD gauge and it took 10 seconds to hit the peg. I then treated 70 km/h (where the TRD gauge reads when not moving when the car is on) as zero and moved the needle to 170 km/h. I released it and it took two seconds for the needle to hit 70km/h.

This indicates to me that the needle just needs to be corrected on the TRD gauge. I will follow Stephen-lee's how to on this and see where it gets me.. now I just need to figure out how to set up this whole thing he had going to play the tone etc.

here is his how to for reference:

Speedometer Re-calibration DIY

Thanks everyone for the help and pointers so far. Big thanks to Dimitri for his pictures and information about installing his TRD speedometer!

[jcbass7]

Well the cluster is in and working. Everything is good and the speedometer is within a few km/h. Its very close as checked by the gps on my phone. The only detail I have left is to set something up for my cruise control.

I also got the two rear speakers re-wired and working and I changed a door panel out for a better one I had. Here are some pics:

I attempted to use the how to with the frequencies, but never got any signal. I even hooked it up to the car head unit and the needle never moved. I felt like the signal was plenty strong enough.




Instead, since the needle was off anyways, I just turned the key on, placed the needle just behind the peg, slid it over and pushed it into place. Then tested it with my gps and drove around at 20km/h in the parking lot. I'm right on at about 19 km/h, so I'll take it. I can't get too picky since I will be driving in SI units but all our speed limits are mph. So its kind of a toss up anyways..

cleaned up the wiring a bit:


Car off:


Key in:


Car on:


New door panel, compared to old one below it:



Interior back together:



Now I just need to get rid of that nasty steering wheel....

[HectortheRican]

It ain't that bad!! Haha Nice job man

[mkernz22]

get a JDM non-airbag one like me! it looks amazing!

[njccmd2002]

I was going to say that trd makes the car so fast that its already going 70 standing still.!!!!

but it was just a glitch. but good job on fixing it...

[cyprus_gt]

Nice job mate

Dimitar

p.s.
i can find a jdm 3 spoke wheel for you but becouse of the years i thing you need to put new leather on it - i mean i saw a few here in the local car graveyards so i can check for you....

cheers

[jcbass7]

get a JDM non-airbag one like me! it looks amazing!

Nice job mate

Dimitar

p.s.
i can find a jdm 3 spoke wheel for you but becouse of the years i thing you need to put new leather on it - i mean i saw a few here in the local car graveyards so i can check for you....

cheers

Thanks guys, I am going to put on another stock celi 4-post that I have laying around. Its not leather, but its in perfect condition. I will eventually put on a 3post with an airbag, but not for a bit.





NEW STUFF CAME IN

Alarm/Keyless Entry/Remote Start and a Trunk Popper:

I am not sure what to do with the remote start since my car is a stick. My other celi has it (its also stick) and I was always afraid something would happen. I think I'll leave it disconnected unless I can configure a safe way to do it. I used to just always leave the other celi in nuetral, but owning the vette for a while now I am in the habit of leaving it in gear since the ebrake on the vette is terrible. I'd hate to forget and have the car drive away on me.

[KAOS]

NEW STUFF CAME IN

Alarm/Keyless Entry/Remote Start and a Trunk Popper:

I am not sure what to do with the remote start since my car is a stick. My other celi has it (its also stick) and I was always afraid something would happen. I think I'll leave it disconnected unless I can configure a safe way to do it. I used to just always leave the other celi in nuetral, but owning the vette for a while now I am in the habit of leaving it in gear since the ebrake on the vette is terrible. I'd hate to forget and have the car drive away on me.

Way to go on everything bud... amazing work.

My car starter (and most newer ones from what I understand) needs to be programmed before I get out of the car, and will not program unless (a) the tranny is in neutral & (b) the e-brake is engaged... so no worries that it will crash through your garage door if you start it in gear... lol.

This post has been edited by KAOS: Oct 20, 2010 - 6:36 PM

[jcbass7]

NEW STUFF CAME IN

Alarm/Keyless Entry/Remote Start and a Trunk Popper:

I am not sure what to do with the remote start since my car is a stick. My other celi has it (its also stick) and I was always afraid something would happen. I think I'll leave it disconnected unless I can configure a safe way to do it. I used to just always leave the other celi in nuetral, but owning the vette for a while now I am in the habit of leaving it in gear since the ebrake on the vette is terrible. I'd hate to forget and have the car drive away on me.

Way to go on everything bud... amazing work.

My car starter (and most newer ones from what I understand) needs to be programmed before I get out of the car, and will not program unless (a) the tranny is in neutral & (b) the e-brake is engaged... so no worries that it will crash through your garage door if you start it in gear... lol.

I think I read a thread about your set-up, I was planning on taking a similar approach. I'd like to have it in the car, but really want to ensure I have it safely installed.

[jcbass7]

more fun.. so the trunk popper came with a button that I think is obnoxious.. so I found this lexus one and snagged it.



I'm going to find a small solenoid and get the gas lid to pop via button as well. It seems simple enough. I also plan on mounting this switch where the stock window lock button is on the door controls. To safe guard from accidentally driving around with the gas lid open, I plan on wiring in a door ajar switch type deal on the gas lid and have it illuminate the gas warning light on the dash. This will tell me the door is open in case I hit the button while driving.

These are all plans at the moment, but the trunk part should be set up with minimal problems. I'll keep you posted.

[jcbass7]

Snagged these as well, since I didn't want to pay 65 for the stock ones and also didn't really like the look of the stock ones. (too big for where I want to mount)



They are seat heater buttons from a mid 90's BMW 325. High/low setting. Perfect for the seat heater set I plan on picking up off ebay.

[cyprus_gt]

jcbass7...did you ever eat,sleep or work?...or just the celica is on you heart beat

Cheers

p.s.
looking to see new updates

[jcbass7]

jcbass7...did you ever eat,sleep or work?...or just the celica is on you heart beat

Cheers

p.s.
looking to see new updates

haha yea i do a few of those things. Its funny because I'm at school getting my civil engineering degree, I just work on the car as an escape from schoolwork.

[KAOS]

haha yea i do a few of those things. Its funny because I'm at school getting my civil engineering degree, I just work on the car as an escape from schoolwork.

I totally know what you mean... I work on the car because it has absolutely nothing to do with my job, LOL.

Its a great escape.

[HectortheRican]

I'm seeing all these little electronics you're getting and...

Do you wanna make the Celica a luxury car on the inside?!

[mkernz22]

get a JDM non-airbag one like me! it looks amazing!

Nice job mate

Dimitar

p.s.
i can find a jdm 3 spoke wheel for you but becouse of the years i thing you need to put new leather on it - i mean i saw a few here in the local car graveyards so i can check for you....

cheers

Thanks guys, I am going to put on another stock celi 4-post that I have laying around. Its not leather, but its in perfect condition. I will eventually put on a 3post with an airbag, but not for a bit.

Airbags are for p*ssiesss! lol

On a serious note, they can be good or bad though

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Oct 22, 2010 - 10:54 AM

[jcbass7]

I'm seeing all these little electronics you're getting and...

Do you wanna make the Celica a luxury car on the inside?!

They are simple inexpensive things (mostly) that you can do to make the car a little nicer and more unique. Working on cars is my break from the real world so sometimes I have to create more work to do. I always have crazy ideas running through my head about doing different custom fabrication things on the car. Keeps it fun.

I've definitely been inspired by Dustin (Batman722) on a lot of these little projects and love his write ups about them. He's always got great ideas and makes everything look OEM.

[jcbass7]

Airbags are for p*ssiesss! lol

On a serious note, they can be good or bad though

After joining the service and having countless trainings and lectures about safety equipment I lean towards it a lot more. I'm a big enough guy (6'4") I feel like an airbag would help me in a crash more than harm me.

Driving the vette on the highway scares me sometimes though, I've seen crash test videos of cars from that era and many its not good. The car has no crumple zones at all and the driver usually ends up in the back seat... and well.. the vette has no back seat.. I just picture me, the 350 and a lot of fiberglass in a nasty tangled mess if I ever hit something hard.

[jcbass7]

More work done this weekend, not as much as I would have liked to get done, but better than nothing.

Progress:
-Installed a better condition steering wheel (4-post)
-Painted and installed GT-Four riser blocks
-De-badged the rear except Toyota emblem
-Installed Optima Red-top

pics...

Removing GT4 front end from Coupe:









Progress on Red Hatchback







goodbye old steering wheel


hello new one


red top

[jcbass7]

More progress, got some stuff in the mail today.

Progress
-JDM Tail Lights

they are on the car, but I couldn't get a decent pic in the dark. I'll get one tomorrow..




This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 25, 2010 - 7:12 PM

[HectortheRican]

JDM tails for the win bro!

[jcbass7]

as promised...

JDM Tails and debadged (still a bit of residue, need to get some goo gone)




This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 26, 2010 - 3:22 PM

[jcbass7]

got some more work done today..

Progress:
-DCW Shift boot dual gauge pod
-Prosport exh temp gauge installed
-Prosport voltage gauge installed
-Blox 450 gram weighted shift knob


I had the exh temp gauge and gauge pod sitting around, the volt gauge came in today as well as the shift knob and the lexus trunk/gas lid button

pics:


Day color = blue


Night color = white (still need to get my old gauge to work this way??)









gonna put this here...


and the seat heater buttons here and here..



and the gas trunk button will possibly go where the dimmer switch is and ill move that to the left vent area where the blank circle is..


This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 26, 2010 - 4:41 PM

[HectortheRican]

I just love all your custom interior work man.

[jcbass7]

I just love all your custom interior work man.

Thanks Hector, she's getting there slowly. Its been a lot of fun so far.

[presure2]

looking good jesse!
that black frame rail came off jenns car!

[jcbass7]

looking good jesse!
that black frame rail came off jenns car!

Thanks Manny, Its kinda fun having a little piece of everyone's car. Obviously I have a lot of parts from my old celi, but there are little pieces here and there from guys/gals all over this forum

[presure2]

looking good jesse!
that black frame rail came off jenns car!

Thanks Manny, Its kinda fun having a little piece of everyone's car. Obviously I have a lot of parts from my old celi, but there are little pieces here and there from guys/gals all over this forum

hehe good stuff man.

[jcbass7]

Well I contacted prosport and it looks like they made a change to their gauges about a year ago. So my old style ext temp gauge is only blue and cannot turn white at all, and the old ones have slightly less powerful LED's as well (as seen below). So for now I'll keep the blue all the time set up, but eventually I will upgrade so that I can have both gauges go white during the day.



Also I found a picture of the switches in a stock BMW


I need to figure out how they turn on and off. There is a high and low setting on the switch, but no off position like the toggle Toyota seat heater switches Dustin has. From what I gathered, the wiring on the back of the switch is as follows:

Wire
1: illumination +
2: Power (Hi?)
3: Power (Low?)
4: Ground (Illumintaion -)
5: Heat Pad Back
6: Heat Pad Seat

So this might be more interesting than I thought to get it to wire up correctly, but I'll make it work.

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 27, 2010 - 10:02 AM

[jcbass7]

I'm getting good at spending money...

Seat Heater Elements



I got them at a great price. Its the same kit that sells for 75 shipped per side. Snagged both sets for 90 shipped.

Now I just need to get new seats... I can't justify putting them into my ripped leather seats that are currently in the car. I'm in the market for 7th gen leather seats. Trying to get a set at a good price. Anyone have a good estimate at what they run for? I was seeing prices around 300.

[mkernz22]

Looking great man! I love all your custom work as well, and I'm starting to go that route with some things as well haha
I do have an extra set of 6gen seats that are in pretty good condition, well, actually, I'll have 2 sets of extra sets of seats in a few weeks lol

[jcbass7]

I might be interested, got any pics? I also realized that I drive right by Norton every weekend when I head up 95 back to Gloucester from my school down here in CT.

[jcbass7]

Took the CC unit from the coupe apart since Eric (previous coupe owner) had made it blue.. but it started to get testy. I opened it up to find quite the hack job.. wires twisted around the LED posts with no solder or anything. So I ordered the following LED's to do this correctly as well as a few other interior pieces:

(all Blue)
1x 8mm Neo-wedge
3x 10mm Neo-wedge
12x 3mm LED's

Here are the pics of the hack job:




This post has been edited by jcbass7: Oct 29, 2010 - 10:30 AM