purplegt4's 3SGTE Swap Options

[purplegt4]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LA9mMy4yFU

Look what presure2 taught me how to do!

This post has been edited by purplegt4: May 8, 2012 - 12:23 PM

[enderswift]

wooooo 3s!

[mgnt232]

awesome! cant wait for my first start this summer

[Stambo]

Congrats, good to see another purple celi with a 3s!

[Soulend]

Congrats dude

[garin]

good stuff!

[AMCMoe]

Congrats!

[Keiri]

Very nice.

[presure2]

good work man.
sounds a bit like its runnin on 3 cylinders in that vid tho..

[purplegt4]

crap. i'll look into it. thanks.

[Ted95]

nice broo

[chacha]

maybe one of your spark plug wire is loose...does sound louder than usual...good ears P...

[purplegt4]

exhaust isn't connected. just a downpipe.

[Soulend]

yeah thats what I thought when I heard it running.(its what mine sounded like) stock or AM downpipe?

Kevin

[purplegt4]

yeah thats what I thought when I heard it running.(its what mine sounded like) stock or AM downpipe?

Kevin

berk!

[presure2]

yeah thats what I thought when I heard it running.(its what mine sounded like) stock or AM downpipe?

Kevin

berk!

FTW!

[Ted95]

yeah thats what I thought when I heard it running.(its what mine sounded like) stock or AM downpipe?

Kevin

berk!

FTW!

[Soulend]

yeah thats what I thought when I heard it running.(its what mine sounded like) stock or AM downpipe?

Kevin

berk!

FTW!

yup i like mine!

[mak5603]

yeah thats what I thought when I heard it running.(its what mine sounded like) stock or AM downpipe?

Kevin

berk!

FTW!

yup i like mine!

That's what I got.

[purplegt4]

After I got the hood on I decided to take her for a ride around the block: felt like ass. Exhaust smells like gas like there isn't enough spark or ignition timing was off. I grab the timing light and as I start it back up I hear a horrible sound come from the cam gear cover. Underneath that, the timing belt is shredded. Definitely should've changed the tensioner & pulleys.

Crap.

This post has been edited by purplegt4: Dec 28, 2010 - 9:29 AM

[DEATH]

Congrats bro! Welcome to the club!
Gremlins are to be expected and as you said - you sort of brought that part on yourself by not refreshing the engine. Hang in therre - it'll all be worth it in the end [and then some]

[purplegt4]

got a tensioner coming in from the uk ( http://www.tcbparts.co.uk/ ). there were none at lithia for weeks! D8 I just hope it doesn't take a couple weeks to get here. then it'll be time to get it started again!

[Culpable04]

could have gotten the tensioner already, and I'm sure for cheaper.

good luck with the project.

this is from his post

- Idler and tensioner pulleys (same P/N) - Instead of ordering these from Toyota ($$$), I opted to try a local bearing supplier called Kaman Industries. They looked up the number indexed on the side of the bearing, and they overnight shipped them via FedEx to my house in less than 24 hours and cost me less than HALF of what Toyota wanted. I think it was something like $~150 from Toyota, as opposed to $68 through Kaman for the exact same thing!

They are identical, they just lack the pretty Toyota box.

[purplegt4]

got the tensioner pulleys. just needed the actual hydraulic tensioner with the pin/hex wrench in it.

[purplegt4]

Ok. fixed timing belt. new problem arisen: slow running on 3 cylinders misfire low boost.

Compression test:

compression cylinder #1


compression cylinder #2


compression cylinder #3


compression cylinder #4


____________________________________________________________

Mechanical timing:






new tensioner & tensioner pulley


____________________________________________________________

Ignition timing:

I set the ignition timing with a timing light in test mode to 10º BTDC. The light flickered intermittently and not steady.

____________________________________________________________

Videos

upclose and rev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ux-Y643jKew

walkaround and in dash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my-nADbFIuM

in car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vy71iJMJmfs

____________________________________________________________

Changed: plugs, cap, rotor.
to change: plug wires.

Pulled out the spark plugs for compression testing: 0.8mm / 0.031in gap. Plug #3 was carbon fouled from misfiring.

I have yet to test the igniter and other resistor packs.

Please help diagnosing this problem.

This post has been edited by purplegt4: Feb 22, 2011 - 11:10 AM

[purplegt4]

plug wires on the way.

[purplegt4]

plug wires on the way.

Pulled #2 wire during idle and no change. Found the culprit.

[celica74]

so it was the #2 wire?

[purplegt4]

I shall see when I get the wires. I hope it is that simple. *crossing my fingers*

[playr158]

sweet it sounds like a mac truck!

hopefully wires fix it.

[purplegt4]

new wires worked. car was ridiculous, until something went wrong with the clutch. i hate being a n00b.

[purplegt4]

pics are a mile from my house.
____________________________________________

clutch isn't engaging.

• can shift through gears with car off, can't put into gear with car on
• put car in gear, then start: car jumps and stalls
• hear noise coming from transmission area during idle
• before problem started, car shifted into 4th with a grind, then 5th with a grind

[Defgeph]

Check to see if clutch slave cylinder is loose.

[Culpable04]

check slave as jeff said, if that checks out, inspect the master cylinder and bleed the system again, it may be something as simple as air in the system.

[purplegt4]

lets hope that's what happened.

[joehernandez]

are you using the E153 tranny i guess right,,
post some pics of the bleed proces if you can please

[playr158]

I think he is using the S54

[purplegt4]

I think he is using the S54

correct.

[presure2]

what brand of clutch?
if the hydraulics check out ok, sounds like you may have a pressure plate problem, maybe a spit spring?

[purplegt4]

what brand of clutch?
if the hydraulics check out ok, sounds like you may have a pressure plate problem, maybe a spit spring?

competition stage 2 & ultra lightweight flywheel.

I haven't had a helper to pump the clutch for me. hopefully today I can do that. If that doesn't work, tear down begins

[purplegt4]

turns out the flywheel bolts were loose. bad, very bad & sloppy.

torque wrenches should be every n00b's best friend, and a helper, too.

all good now. just got to get my exhaust welded.

[presure2]

turns out the flywheel bolts were loose. bad, very bad & sloppy.

torque wrenches should be every n00b's best friend, and a helper, too.

all good now. just got to get my exhaust welded.

yup..its like what 76ftlbs or somthing, isnt it?
make sure you use locktite too!!
with all the bolts i've had work loose on me over the years, i pretty much use it on everything now. lol

[playr158]

Hahaa come on newbie. Always torque and loctite ur bolts!



Glad it was something simple.

[purplegt4]

loctite blue smells like blueberry candy.

Glad it was something simple.

getting to the bolts wasn't simple. but it could've been worse.

[purplegt4]

dyno day at p-tuning in manassas, va.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2200041

they were talking about a 12% loss, running really rich. there should be a video with all the runs.

[Ted95]

how many pounds were you running?

[purplegt4]

Boost gauge reads arouns 13-14

[Ted95]

Boost gauge reads arouns 13-14

so if it wasnt running rich it prob wouldve made more power right? i couldnt find the video to hear it run. im jw bc im tryin to get a feel for what im pushin for power right now, im at around 13psi too, jw where im standing lol

[purplegt4]

the guy said that if they tuned it, they could get a lot more power out of it.

the runs were recorded all the that day. i'll post back with the link.

This post has been edited by purplegt4: Aug 15, 2011 - 8:10 AM

[celica95-95]

was that to the wheels ?

[Neon90424]

at 14 psi on an st205 I think the power rating was flywheel ...why didnt u up it to 17 psi?

[playr158]

That's actual whp

[purplegt4]

at 14 psi on an st205 I think the power rating was flywheel ...why didnt u up it to 17 psi?

no boost controller fitted.

[purplegt4]

My transmission was hungry and wanted to eat my axle.






So any suggestions?

From the other side I can't really fit anything through the hole because there's a thin bar in the way

I'm wondering:

• If this transmission really has LSD afterall.
• If pieces of the axle could fall into the transmission.

I guess the only way to know is to take it apart.

[playr158]

you could always try a huge extractor bit, but probably just need to take apart the transmission.
that sucks dude

[Ted95]

Same thing happened to me, drivers side? I replaced my tranny in case there was metal pieces inside. I never took the old one apart but there was shavings all in the axel hole.. I'll take it apart one of these days lol

This post has been edited by Ted95: Feb 21, 2012 - 3:52 PM

[purplegt4]

Same thing happened to me, drivers side? I replaced my tranny in case there was metal pieces inside. I never took the old one apart but there was shavings all in the axel hole.. I'll take it apart one of these days lol

Yes driver's side. Ok so I'm looking at replacing the transmission. Thanks!

[bsamps4]

I'm sorry man! Seems like you can't catch a break!

[purplegt4]

I'm sorry man! Seems like you can't catch a break!

LOL Pun intended?

She was fine for a while. I just have to learn to gradually step on the gas instead of punch it!

[bsamps4]

You guys are freaking me out. I really don't want to snap an axle off in my tranny!

[purplegt4]

You guys are freaking me out. I really don't want to snap an axle off in my tranny!

Take it easy on the pedal, try not to launch.

[bsamps4]

Nope. Not gonna launch. I just bought a new passenger side axle from carquest. It's a reman, but I've heard good things about Cardone axles. So I'm hoping it's thicker than stock, and a little more durable. The driver side axle I believe is one of the thicker remans as well.

[Ted95]

Ya these cars a hard to launch, I found just under 3k and a light right foot gets the trick done. Just have a light right foot on the top of first and second cause it will just want to spin and just let it have it in third and your goneeee.. 3rd gear gets them everytime.. Hit 4th and check your rear view for the car lengths.. On the track of course

This post has been edited by Ted95: Feb 24, 2012 - 8:54 PM

[purplegt4]

With the new transmission mounted, I go to take the ol' girl for a ride and after I hit the throttle I got at code 54.

I checked the fluid level in the top mount - full. I blipped the throttle and the fluid didn't swirl or move. Turns out the pump isn't pumping anymore. Would a rebuild (changing the bearings) do the trick or is the motor shot. It didn't make any horrible noises. With the battery out of the car I connected the pump to the battery and it barely pumped.

Only tests from the book I didn't do were to check the level sensor and test the intercooler cap.

Wondering if I should replace the pump or rebuild or go fmic.

If I replace the pump it would be with this pump:
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?products_id=1001

and this heat exchanger (mine OEM HE is bent up):
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?products_id=1026

What do you guys think?

[Culpable04]

if you have the time and tools, rebuild the pump, is cheap enough.

I have an extra pump with bad bearing waiting for a rainy day for me to take the time and rebuild

[Batman722]

I have a spare pump if you want it, PM me an offer.

[bsamps4]

I'd run the FMIC, less mechanical stuff to go wrong.

[Sunny]

Hi,

do you also checked the level sender, do he work?
you must reset the ecu after a code54 to make the pump running (pull EFI fuse for a few seconds)!

i'am using a jabsco 80L/min pump, but you have to built a 54-killer the ecu

for pictures have a look
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...t=0&start=0

greetz

[schmooot]

+1 on the pump rebuild, the new bearings only cost me a few bucks and the rebuild itself took me maybe a half hour on the bench.

There is a write-up in the how-to section here http://www.gtfours.co.uk/

There is also a how-to fix your code 54 on that same sight

[purplegt4]

I still have a 54. Super annoying.

So after rebuilding the pump, I go to check that it will pump, and the battery turns out to be dead. (it was 6 years old) so i replaced it. After that the pump worked fine.

I might have an idea on where to look because my wiring harness doesn't give me a reading for M+ and M- when the ignition is set to ON. [EG-101 7.Inspect Engine ECU for Circuit]

[purplegt4]

i probably messed up the harness while moving it out of the way to get to the trans bolts.

[purplegt4]

i probably messed up the harness while moving it out of the way to get to the trans bolts.

nope. that's not the problem.

haven't tried replacing the pump yet. maybe that'll do the trick...

[purplegt4]

The code 54 was popping up because I recently plugged my radiator switch into my new radiator. Why would that matter? Because if you wire in your intercooler relay into the fan power wires, and not plug in the water temp switch the fans will keep running and supply power. (B-O & L-R - Pins #2 and 4) are actually supposed to go to CDS fuse and ea1 pin #6. Arg. Took forever to find. Bad gremlin, bad!

[Culpable04]

glad you found it.

I have a more interesting one that poped up this week.

when I'm on boost my wipers come on

there have been 2 changes to my car. oil pressure guage and LED AC unit.

I'm leaning toward the crappy oil pressure guage, as soon as I installed it my temp gauge stopped working ( has worked for 3+ years fine ) and is the most recent change to the car.

Hate electrical issues.

[playr158]

Your windshield wipers come on when you hit boost?!
thats gotta be the funniest thing ever.
Hope you get it fixed, sounds like a short somewhere

[purplegt4]

glad you found it.

I have a more interesting one that poped up this week.

when I'm on boost my wipers come on

there have been 2 changes to my car. oil pressure guage and LED AC unit.

I'm leaning toward the crappy oil pressure guage, as soon as I installed it my temp gauge stopped working ( has worked for 3+ years fine ) and is the most recent change to the car.

Hate electrical issues.

Where/how did you install the gauge? Where's the power supply coming from, where'd you mount it etc?

[Culpable04]

the guage gets power from the battery, triggered by ignition ( throught a relay ) I think the problem is the oil pressure sensor, it has a (=) and a ground and I think the sensor has a short, it'll be as easy as disconnecting the sensor to test this, will try tomorrow.

but at least I know there are only 2 things that I have changed and it wasnt doing it before ( been driving the car since Dec. )

[purplegt4]

has to be a short somewhere. how the hell can the wipers go on at boost?! i wish u caught your reaction to the first time it happened.