GT-FOUR El Franjeado, EFR turbo etcq Options

[Neon90424]

I'll take advantage of this and say hello as this is my first post in this forum. I recently acquired a GT-Four from 1999 randomly traded my 2003 celica Gt JDM ofcourse was a neat ride but too low gas mileage was good beat the **** out of the car and of course... wrong wheel drive :S... So I kept driving past this pretty GT Four and I decided to check it out the next day... My cars underside was beat to hell ( rocky roads speed bumps carter looked like muhamed ali punched it) He said No mechanics or the deals always go sour, sure what the hell my car was beat to **** and ate cans of oil. I tested it and sure for me it was like driving a missile. So now the details, I liked that it had a nice thick Aluminum KOYO racing radiator and a Cusco alloy strut brace and a sweet japanese roundish air intake and 57K kilometers on the Odo...the limited 300km/h TRD speedo so I was turned on by this and the next day I was drivin this gas guzzler home...No surprise it had problems....

So the damage is this blown turbo seals no idea of what the engine condition is my intake manifold and everything else is covered inside with oil...

I came to the US and bought basically 2 grand worth in parts didnt have that much money so I had to compromise, Heres the list, try not to cringe. Im basically gonna slap all this **** together and see if it works...

GODSPEED KKR 480 Twin scroll turbo ( says its 450HP capable I'm aiming at 350)
4 Iridium spark plugs heat range 7
HKS SSQV black limited edition BOV
AEM Water/Meth Inj 5 Gallon tank (our gas aint so purdi)
Ebay oil catch can
Timing belt set with new water pump (dont need the water pump but taking it as insurance anyways)
ACT 6 puc clutch disk ( stock clutch slips a bit under high rev launching)
crappy chinese AFR narrow band digital clockything (just so it tells me Im not melting pistons
25mm ebay wheel spacers
ebay electronic boost controller
ebay n1 carbon fiber burnt tip muffler
electric exhaust cut out from Raceland USA
carbon fiber raiser blocks from hong kong and the normal GT four wing for 40$ off a local supra guy.
cheap 25$ bishieclipse FCD
Ill try to update once I get to Paraguay and slap all this stuff on, Should be fun to see the results...

Cheers

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Sep 8, 2012 - 6:06 AM

[gt4st205]

Thats a very nice 205 you got there(saw the pics on your profile). You are definently in the right place to get info and help on the car. Post some pics up!

Welcome!

[Neon90424]

I've got 2 vids I'll post pics that i can find online

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLjafuHj33Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KP35iK6ohY

As you can see if a regular 2000 GT can pass me ive got problems around 60mph no more cool acceleration

[Neon90424]

When i first got it at our first GT4 club meeting haha



Second meeting as you can see it was so low i ripped the front part off




Its not completely useless

[gt4st205]

That's to bad about your front bumper, were you looking at getting a stock GT-Four one?

[Neon90424]

my profile pic is the current pic I fixed the body details for about 300$

[gt4st205]

Glad you were able to fix it!

[Neon90424]

I actually broke the pass side rear wheel holding bar thing....my wheel could twist on its axis and still had power...scary when it accelerated...broke it doing a handbrake park, tow truck to the mecanic y had it replaced...Havent hand brake parked anymore lol...did it on a stone road...

it was like drifting sideways by just accelerating hard on the slick stone lol! cost me friggin 200$ to fix tho

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 19, 2011 - 2:33 PM

[Neon90424]

Anyone got any predictions? I don't know if this turbo will be more laggy or If i will hit fuel cut I havent read anything of slapping on a different twin scroll turbo on a 3sgte I have no idea about the wastegate it has its own internal waste gate...I'm so confused right now

[presure2]

my prediction is not to install that FCD.
itll lock your map sensor at one voltage, which will cause the car to run like poo, and if you manage to make boost while its installed, could very well blow your motor.

get an "active" style map clamp if you want to run more than 18psi.

your new turbo wont bolt up to the factory manifold, do you have an adapter?

do you have a link to the specs of the turbo you have?

throw the narrowband o2 gauge in the garbage, its pretty much usless for any kind of real info, other than if your stock o2 sensor is working or not.

[Neon90424]

Turbo Specification:

Maximum Horse Power
450HP
Turbo Inlet (intake)
3"
Turbo outlet (intercooler)
2”
Cooling type
Oil & water cooled
Type of Wastegate
Internal Wastegate (Default 8 PSI)
Compressor
.50 AR
Compressor Wheel
53mm/76.5mm Diameter
Turbine
.84 AR
Turbine Wheel
56mm/73mm Diameter
Turbine flange type
T3 (Twin entry)
Down pipe type
2.5” v-band

I thought the guage would help keep me awake at night better than coffee imagine a coffee mug that annoys you in diff colorS!

FCD description from ebay is as follows

This FCD acts as a voltage clamp that you wire into your factory MAP sensor wiring. Installation is very simple, and takes the normal individual about 15 minutes to install. This is a basic 3 wire FCD that you wire into the factory harness, and set the voltage on the FCD using a Digital Multi-Meter (not included, but directions are with purchase), and simply leave it be. Once your voltage is set, you can boost as much as your engines internals will handle and never have to worry about fuel cut EVER again. I own a 98 Mitsu Eclipse myself, that has been turbocharged and am still using the same FCD that I installed on it 5 years ago. All my products carry a LIFETIME warranty on part defects, failures and craftsmanship. I will not warranty any FCD that has been misused or installed incorrectly. This FCD is much more reliable than the mechanical Missing Links that are available out on the market as well. Why? Mainly because this is an electronic part that basically tricks the computer. When you create pressure (boost) the voltage of your MAP raises. When the computer see's usually around anything higher than 4.65 volts, it cuts fuel. You can set this FCD to hold voltage at 4.63 volts and when you creep into boost, it will hold it at 4.63 or whatever you desire to set it at, that way the computer never see's anything higher than its limits, therefor, does not create what is known as fuel cut.

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 19, 2011 - 7:56 PM

[presure2]

lmao! it will give you a pretty light show!
i'd be worried about boost creep with that turbo.

what are you using for an exhaust manifold? that turbo wont bolt to the stock one.

do you have a link to the FCD on ebay?

from the description it sounds like it holds at one voltage. if that IS what it does, you cant use it on a 3rd gen 3s, because it uses the map sensor for its fuel trims.
lock it at one voltage, and it will send the same amount of fuel under all conditions.
that is bad.

an active style clamp allows the ecu to work as normal below the voltage you set it at, and locks it there when you get to it, or above it.
if that is how that one works, then your fine. (that is the style that i use on my car, as well as several others that i know with 3rd gens)

[95st-celica]

lol.....i feel so bad for this poor car....and 57k at that

some people just dont understand what its like to not have the availability of a true ST205

[Neon90424]

you sure? why not? yeah...st205s go for 7 grand down where I am...Im looking for guidance so that it doesnt explode thank you 57k is like 28K miles...car starts in a blink of an eye turbo is my only problem I have a regular chinese T3/T4 turbo on my sand rail...has a 3vz-fe I bought with its auto tranny for 600$...10,000$ later its still a sh*T pile.

Ok I've been using the search function google and ebay and I don't know if im fkin retarded or my mom dropped me on my head when I was little but i just cant find the name of the flange that the stock exhaust manifold has to the turbo... That KKR thing is T3 twin scroll so i hope its the same thing but u guys say its like tryin to mate rosie o'donell to a human

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 19, 2011 - 10:18 PM

[BriinumsBo]

half of the parts you listed are ricing blings useless for power

[Neon90424]

thats only 3 things on there the BOV the muffler and the afr gauge you know?...what kind of GT4 is a GT4 without raiser blocks too? Im really workin on a tight budget not much money in Paraguay...but you live cheap and eat cheap n good:)

[Culpable04]

ok, un poco de ayuda.

nesesitas esta pieza para adaptar ese turbo
T3 Adapter !

tambien nesesitaras adaptar las lineas de aceite y anticongelante.

el FCD que compraste no funcionara con este motor, este motor ajusta el ciclo de los injectores basado en la informacion que recibe del sensor de presion ( MAP sensor ) ese que compraste ajusta la senal a un voltage fijo, eso causara que la computadora ponga los injectores a trabajar en el mismo ciclo todo el tiempo, a mil revoluciones estaras recibiendo la misma cantidad de combustible que a 7 mil revoluciones, y eso puede hacer que le tomes fotos a los pistones ( no creo que quieras eso )
nesesitas un FCD como este, si lees la descripcion veras que es Activo, esto quiere decir que tu seleccionas el voltaje maximo para no llegar a " fuel Cut " pero debajo de ese voltaje deja que el sensor funcione normal.

Symtech FCD

nesesitas comprar un wideband, ese reloj que compraste sera inutil y para asegurarte que las cosas andan bien con ese nuevo turbo nesesitas un wideband, y en el futuro considera agregar injection de agua, asi podras correr mas llibras y el motor estara mas seguro a la vez.

[Neon90424]

Ya compre Injeccion de Agua, Y el flange no es igual al del turbo que tengo....

Crap...looks like i got some adaptin' to do

I thought the CT20 flange would be divided? The turbo I have is a twin scroll divided thingy...but it seems to be a bit wide

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 20, 2011 - 9:09 AM

[Culpable04]

CT20 flange is also divided ( twin entry ) but what you have to worry about is the footprint of the turbo, it says T3 so you need a ct20 to T3 adapter like the one on the link I posted.

[presure2]

Ya compre Injeccion de Agua, Y el flange no es igual al del turbo que tengo....

Crap...looks like i got some adaptin' to do

I thought the CT20 flange would be divided? The turbo I have is a twin scroll divided thingy...but it seems to be a bit wide

the stock manifold and turbo are twin scroll design as well, but theyre flanges are propriatary to toyota.

there are a few companies that make adapters to run just about any turbo you'd like, just a matter of what you want to spend.
they range from ~50$ for a cheap ebay one to several hundred for a really nice, CNC'd peice from a place like atsracing

[Neon90424]

oh how I hate propietary company bullsh*T why cant everything be universal bleh...Seems like im gonna have to order this **** from paraguay or have it hand made...which ever is cheaper...

Would it be recomendable to just to make a handmade adapter? A local mechanic did it for my 3vz-fe he Y piped it and made a flange at the end of the Y pipe for the turbo...I wonder if this thing will fit without bothering the radiator... I hate it when sh*T happens

I Just found these pics of the CT26 and CT20 and I must say the turbo exhaust side I have does seem wider on the bolts...Could I drill holes into it and screw it in that way?

EDIT: I am still looking at the both pics and it looks like this thing should bolt up to it...

And what about the waste gate part I am a bit n00b at this point so I was wondering if the internal waste gate on the turbo takes care of my problems?

Oh...and will this POS hook up onto the down pipe or will i have to custom that thing?

EDIT: I got this off of Toyotanation out of a guy wanting to upgrade the turbo on his alltrack...

the CT24 turbo from any all trac will bolt right up, they are pretty common and easy to get ahold of. if you cant find the CT24 then any t3/t4 hybrid should bolt up.

My turbo has a T3 twin scroll flange on it.

I read up on the FCD So if i clamp the voltage where the injectors are at 100% that is my limit on the stock fuel system? knowing these 3sgte's run rich and I keep on the boost say to 21PSI with the Water/Meth injection I believe it should stabilize it and richen it a bit with the meth keepin me a happy camper ?


I am truly sorry If someone thinks I am torturing a poor st205, but the fact is that my car was tortured long before I came along it actually had bolts inbetween the coilovers...welded on I believe...So that It wouldnt collapse I think? the coilover ended up snapping in half...The turbo seems to have been over boosted and thrashed around so all its seals are blown..And with the Koyo racing radiator and nice intake and the C-One cooling panel thing & cusco strut brace...This thing was definitely up to something in the Jap tuner world...why the hell would it have a racing radiator in the first place?

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 20, 2011 - 12:39 PM

[Neon90424]

No ideas? Well I'm flyin' back tomorrow So expect lots of pics and questions by next week. Get this GT-Four back to impreza spankin badboy status

[Sunny]

Hi,

sorry, does i ask you direct for the problem as i won't read the complete thread.....

you want to use a twin entry turbo on your toyota twin entry manifold which means you need a twin entry adapter or get the manifold
machined to take the new turbo
the issue is that your turbo doesn't use kinetic energy when you kill the twin entry

CT26 and CT20B use the same twin entry design but is toyota specific

i'am nearly in the same situation like you, but i have to make a corolla wrc manifold to fit a T4 divided turbo on it

greetz

[Neon90424]

Its a twinscroll turbo that is divided T3, I have no idea of the results. Im finally in the motherland! pics later I got the Xenon and Spacers installed! Muffler too!










I am going to switch to 215 55 R16 so It should look much better once i get that done

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 24, 2011 - 11:25 PM

[Neon90424]

Alrighty folks I'm off to the mechanics expect engine bay pics at least lets see what we can get done today!


Sorry guys, mechanic is hands full till monday, got the electric cut out installed and I must say, It leaked a bit but then I guess as it heats up and with the soot it should seal pretty good barely noticeable, Great rally car sound with the touch of a button opens up real fast and closes real fast as well!

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 26, 2011 - 6:22 PM

[miguelst205]

Jajajajaja..

Que bueno encontrar a algún paraguayo por acá che.. pensaba que era el único por acá, pero ahora ya no...

Anotá mi email y número de teléfono, te puedo guiar con unas cuantas cosas de repente... digamos que ya soy bieeeen veterano con el GT-Four, específicamente el ST205.. jeje..

Supongo que sos de Asunción, yo soy de CDE, pero sin dramas... maenriquez07@gmail.com ... msn: miguelpneus@hotmail.com ... los celulares... 0973 863998 y 0983 406942...

Escribime y te explico más o menos cómo viene la mano, ya que vi que con algunas cosas estás medio confundido o desinformado... Saludos!!..

PS: people, sorry about writing in spanish, but let's agree with me that it's very rare to find a compatriot here in a US forum... me even more, because I'm some "oldie" here.. hehehe..

[Smaay]

KEEP IT IN ENGLISH!!!!! this is a public forum

[Culpable04]

KEEP IT IN ENGLISH!!!!! this is a public forum

yes, public and international forum that is, people write in polish, german, french, spanish, Japanese, etc

when I don't understand one of those languages I use the magic of google to translate, as a public forum you have to be open minded and prepare to welcome members from all nationalities, so chill out and STOP THE CRYING !!!

[presure2]

KEEP IT IN ENGLISH!!!!! this is a public forum

when you make the rules, then you can decide things like this.
till then, be polite.
use google translator, it works well.

besides, what does the forum being "public" have to do with what lauguage he writes in?

[Ted95]

lol.....i feel so bad for this poor car....and 57k at that

some people just dont understand what its like to not have the availability of a true ST205

i agree

[3WayStunna]

oh how I hate propietary company bullsh*T why cant everything be universal bleh...Seems like im gonna have to order this **** from paraguay or have it hand made...which ever is cheaper...

Would it be recomendable to just to make a handmade adapter? A local mechanic did it for my 3vz-fe he Y piped it and made a flange at the end of the Y pipe for the turbo...I wonder if this thing will fit without bothering the radiator... I hate it when sh*T happens

I Just found these pics of the CT26 and CT20 and I must say the turbo exhaust side I have does seem wider on the bolts...Could I drill holes into it and screw it in that way?

EDIT: I am still looking at the both pics and it looks like this thing should bolt up to it...

And what about the waste gate part I am a bit n00b at this point so I was wondering if the internal waste gate on the turbo takes care of my problems?

Oh...and will this POS hook up onto the down pipe or will i have to custom that thing?

EDIT: I got this off of Toyotanation out of a guy wanting to upgrade the turbo on his alltrack...

the CT24 turbo from any all trac will bolt right up, they are pretty common and easy to get ahold of. if you cant find the CT24 then any t3/t4 hybrid should bolt up.

My turbo has a T3 twin scroll flange on it.

I read up on the FCD So if i clamp the voltage where the injectors are at 100% that is my limit on the stock fuel system? knowing these 3sgte's run rich and I keep on the boost say to 21PSI with the Water/Meth injection I believe it should stabilize it and richen it a bit with the meth keepin me a happy camper ?


I am truly sorry If someone thinks I am torturing a poor st205, but the fact is that my car was tortured long before I came along it actually had bolts inbetween the coilovers...welded on I believe...So that It wouldnt collapse I think? the coilover ended up snapping in half...The turbo seems to have been over boosted and thrashed around so all its seals are blown..And with the Koyo racing radiator and nice intake and the C-One cooling panel thing & cusco strut brace...This thing was definitely up to something in the Jap tuner world...why the hell would it have a racing radiator in the first place?

Just to fill you in man, YOU DO NOT WANT TO RUN YOUR INJECTORS AT 100% DUTY. The could reach a point where they do not open/close fast enough, starve your engine, and then bad things will happen. Its obvious that you know what an active clamp does, but i just have a thing about running injectors up too 100%. I have had mine hit up to 80% and most ppl will tell you 80% is the "safe limit". Its cool that you want to run water/meth injection, but nonetheless the dangers are still present.

http://docinjector.com/info1.htm (give this a quick read for a general idea of what i mean)

Do you plan to run larger injectors BTW? I noticed you are planning to upgrade your turbo. I wonder if a portion if not all of your fueling system will change as well...

[Neon90424]

I have no plans to change the fuel system, Injectors are usually expensive and 3rd gen are as big as they come out of all gens that I know of...bigger injectors with more boost = death to pistons... So I'm lookin for the safe limit of max gas with extra alcohol and water with the PSI limit and get as close to 350 HP since thats my goal. Its the taboo limit of pistons gas head gasket and piston rings clutch and whatnot.


And why feel so bad for my poor car ? I love my car, our roads are **** thats all. It has suffered a few times though, no crashes though

Thanks miguel for the Info I'll send you a message if i swing that side of the country!

[Sunny]

Hi,

the main problem of a 100% duty-cicle is that the injectors gets hot as the fuel is't not longer able to cool them and in front of this they get damaged, 80% is a safe maximum

a friend of mine is driving around ~380PS (DIN) with the standart 540cc injectors, a good fuel pump, map and especially water injection is needed

you should possible go for a hybrid turbo to hit your goal, i think this is the cheapest solution as you don't have to build the whole system new

greetz

[Johnnyny]

obviamente tienes mucha ambicion hermano pero por favor haslo bien no tienes idea cuanto la gente de aca quisiera tener la opportuninad que tu tienes !

[3WayStunna]

Well NEON90424 there are still some options that you could take in regards to improving your fuel system on the cheap.

One thing you could try is an improved fuel pump, with an aftermarket pressure gauge/regulator. With this method you can get the most out of your stock injectors without actually changing them.
I will say though, that most people tend to shy away from doing this mostly because they dont know what they are doing or because someone tells them that it isnt a good idea. READ UP ON THIS TO SEE MORE OF WHAT I MEAN....(btw this method takes a bit of research and patience) Stock fuel pressure is as follows...33-38psi/idle =27-31psi


AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE GUIDE

You could also try swapping out your stock injectors for something slightly bigger out of a junked car. What i mean is, finding side feed 550cc injectors to give you a better range of efficiency before you hit that magical 80-85% duty cycle.

I have seen a few friends of mine get away with this when doing their "junkyard builds (using mostly parts out of a junkyards)". I really wouldnt reccomend this as a permanent solution mostly because the injectors could be bad, and you might have to do some custom work to make it all work together (aka. boring out rails, jury-riggin a rail to work with your engine etc.etc..)
Ill post up a link that has list of all side feed injectors and their flow rates.

SIDE FEED INJECTORS

OR you could dig through forum sites/ebay to find a nice set of injectors on the cheap you could use. Use a SAFC for cheap tuning and throw in a wahlbro pump and bam you could have a cheap system that works and is reliable to some extent. Although some ppl say that they have problems with the SAFC and the 3rd gen's computer...meh

All of this is really just food for thought. I understand that you are just doing a simple build using "cheap parts". But i figured i would at least throw the info out there if you or someone else was curious about other methods.

Honestly when it comes to upping the boost, and fueling etc. etc. i would do things right, no matter the cost. Those two things could easily detroy an engine if done wrong..

Anywho ill stop clogging up this thread with my post...good luck with your build man, and dont listen to what anybody says...hopefully you keep things safe though, and you get some fun out of it!!

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Jan 29, 2011 - 7:13 AM

[Neon90424]

...and dont listen to what anybody says...

I just thought that part was funny lol.

I have a Walbro 190LPH pump in my sand rail I can swap that out into my celica I guess wont the stock FPR do its work? what PSI is the 80% of stock limit? Also you guys are forgetting the point that im not going to be going 7000 rpm for 10 minutes...

Hi,

the main problem of a 100% duty-cicle is that the injectors gets hot as the fuel is't not longer able to cool them and in front of this they get damaged, 80% is a safe maximum

a friend of mine is driving around ~380PS (DIN) with the standart 540cc injectors, a good fuel pump, map and especially water injection is needed

you should possible go for a hybrid turbo to hit your goal, i think this is the cheapest solution as you don't have to build the whole system new

greetz

I guess you didnt read the part where I wrote Wat/Meth injection will be set up...

I already got the turbo its a twinscroll .50AR chinese piece of shart

[Sunny]

Hi,

i just want to say that it is possible with 540cc injectors but i didn't read the part where you bought the turbo

greetz

[Neon90424]

ok thank you.

So consensus is that

With Wat/Meth stock inj turbo W2A iridium spark plugs boost controller ceramic 6 puc clutch (from ACT) I can reach 350HP and into STI crushing zone ??

[bsamps4]

I absolutely love this build. I can tell in your writing that you have a great sense of humor. Best of luck.

[presure2]

ok thank you.

So consensus is that

With Wat/Meth stock inj turbo W2A iridium spark plugs boost controller ceramic 6 puc clutch (from ACT) I can reach 350HP and into STI crushing zone ??

350hp, no problem. 350whp (WHEEL hp) is going to be pushing the limits of the stock 540cc injectors.
no need for iridium spark plugs, they arnt going to gain you any hp.

[Neon90424]

Yes obviously at fly wheel specs isnt the JDM spec 255HP At the flywheel aswell?

Iridium spark plugs give you more Horse powers!plus the stickers I put on my intercooler and license plate I should gain like 10 horse powers from those! And dont get me started If I chow down on these....then its massive horse powers

[Neon90424]

I just put in CF raiser blocks with the nice wing on it! that should add about 50 horsepower at 100km/h*



Does that look correctly installed to you?

*more like kilograms lol



This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 31, 2011 - 4:52 PM

[Neon90424]

Ok I installed the AEM Wat/Meth and Teed up the digital boost controller to it and I got some surprising results,

My car only boosts up to 7 psi... the wat/meth is not injecting into the manifold just onto the radiator (only water, It wooorks )

So why would my CT20B only be boosting to 7 psi with leaking oil seals? or wat do u guys think its problem is?

[3WayStunna]

Umm, maybe im not understanding this correctly, but you have your water/meth injection spraying onto your radiator?
And my second question, is your turbo leaking oil?
And finally, when you say digital boost controller, you mean the one that came with the AEM kit right?

[Neon90424]

The water meth injection nozzle is hanging atm, the system is set up, not tuned yet it just sprays at 1 psi and it was set to spray infront of the radiator (Have to see where to but the hole for this thing ) no meth has been added ( I know its corrosive as fck), The whole insides of my manifold are covered in oil, its minimal but it sure is messy my BOV use to spit out oil onto my hood I dont know how bad the oil thing is now since I switched to synthetic I'll check my oil level but It shouldn't be bad. I think I have some bad turbo seals a local turbo expert told me my turbo was probably set at max psi and they blew the seals but we cant know for sure till we take it out. And no the digital boost controller is the one that I bought to be able to control the boost for the new turbo, I just have it tee'd off no solenoid or anything just to see the numbers in solid digital info instead of a crappy clock, What confuzzles me is that the clock would show 15 psi before...BUT...performance was the same...I'm betting the clock is **** and that I have never gone past 8 psi...Last night I Pulled in 3rd till redline and all I got was a miserable 6-7 psi on the boost controller.

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Feb 9, 2011 - 8:22 AM

[Culpable04]

take a picture of which line you used for the digital boost controller, some Vac lines don't see full boost.

the only reason other than a bad turbo for 8 psi or lower is if you are on " safe " mode, but for the turbo to be boosting only 8 psi, you'd see a good amount of blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe, my turbo was shot and I wasd still boosting 12 psi with a great amount of smoke out the back.

[Neon90424]

Yeah I believe I am on safe mode...My boost controller and TRD Speedo gauge cluster thing also shows minimal boost. No CELs and the I do get some smoke out the back I thought it was burnin oil tho...gonna go reset the ECU and do some doughnuts in the yard, did another pull today max I got was 7.4 PSI...the boost controller shows there was a peak 9.9 psi boost sometime yesterday... still way too low..my butt dyno reports phail.

sparking the battery didnt do anything...Do i have to unplug it longer or something?

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Feb 9, 2011 - 4:16 PM

[mkernz22]

what do you mean by sparking the battery?
just unplug both positive and negative terminals for a few minutes and it should reset.

doing donuts is probably going to f^ck your stuff up even more. you should stop acting like an idiot and do the build right and replace the parts that need to be replaced otherwise you're going to have some serious problems with your car. i'm not trying to sound like a$$ though it might seem like it, but you're going to mess up your engine if you don't fix it properly.

once you fix it and everything works perfect, then go have some fun

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 9, 2011 - 5:11 PM

[Neon90424]

its just doughnuts over dirt man Its not like I'm going allout ripping concrete... I unplugged the positive and rub it and it sparks...Thats how we reset stuff down here...

Dont know how doughnuts would mess up my engine though...comin home 100 miles an hour and only got 7 psi...

Wish I could find the .GIF of harold and kumar escape guantanamo bay when he says "**** YOU!, Doughnuts are awesome!" would be priceless right now

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Feb 9, 2011 - 9:48 PM

[mkernz22]

well i thought you meant on pavement lol but still, high rev's and an oil leak in the turbo aren't a great mix, i'd still try to get that turbo issue fixed.

here's the clip haha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MzCiYsEzTg

[3WayStunna]

Well firstly your oil problem might be an oil catch can issue. If the turbo was really going out or gone, im sure it would be making one heck of a noise or there would be other problems.

As far as why you are boosting so low without CEL, it could be a boost leak (vacuum leak) somewhere in your system.

And some advice, umm, if you want to run water injection, some people might say that you should have it running "preferbly" inbtwn your throttle body and intercooler, in front of the butterfly valve of your throttle body.

And also i couldnt agree with MKERNZ22 anymore, man you should fix your problems before you go out to have fun with your car OR add water injection. I mean, do as you wish, but you can mess up alot more that you think, and your cheap parts build will turn into an expensive/gotta fix this build. Just my .02 cents.

[Goonter]

lol.....i feel so bad for this poor car....and 57k at that

some people just dont understand what its like to not have the availability of a true ST205

It's not truly at 57k. as he stated:

"I liked that it had a nice thick Aluminum KOYO racing radiator and a Cusco alloy strut brace and a sweet japanese roundish air intake and 57K kilometers on the Odo...the limited 300km/h TRD speedo so I was turned on by this"

- which means it's not the original KMs anymore. The speedo couldve been changed at 100,000 kms, 10,000 kms or 109803943842 billion kms. But you get the idea.

[Neon90424]

Or bought when the car came out

[Neon90424]

I installed the wat injection im running like 55% Water and 45% window washer fluid (paraguayan made its not meth but its got alky and water in the ingredients so it should be just as good...maybe I should use more washer fluid than water its quite cheap i got 10 liters for 6 bucks. I drilled a hole in the rubber between the butterfly valve and the w2a intercooler unfortunately my dumbass forgot to remember the cusco bar and it no longer fits because of the large ass spray nozzle and i cant bend the line for obvious reasons...it kept popping off so i glued it on with that cement stuff you mix and its on there and no budging i get a tiny leak when the BOV goes off and the spray goes backwards...other than that it seems to be fine I even ran it at full spray with the test button (this aem kit is pretty nice for the money) while revving around 4-6k and it didnt hesitate I changed the spark plugs as well (what a pain in the aaaasss stupid ass intercooler location) It had TRD iridium spark plugs ( covered in oil blegh) I wonder about the oil catch can If its something I can do myself with my limited tools and knowledge I have the kit in my car ill look up a how to do that...I cleaned the insides of about everything with carb cleaner it was quite cheap a can for 5 bucks...the spark plug cables are nice 8mm thick made in usa stuff looks like quality I must say after revving with the water injection my intercooler was quite cool...I also put in about 2 liters of red coolant in the w2a and my low boost issues are still around...gonna change battery tomorrow to help my low battery problems...

Ok I searched and found threads but no pics of a step by step of how to set it up...any one got a pic and paint skills?

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Feb 11, 2011 - 12:11 AM

[95celgt]

i have a feeling you need new pistons/rings.....that sounds like waaay too much blow by oil earlier in your thread..

[Sunny]

Hi,

i don't know the conditions of your country but you should run as much water as possible in the intercooler to get the most power out of them

the liquid you use must have a high specific heat capacity to conduct the heat safe and constant, water have the highest
water also have a higher heat transfer against anti freeze

i'am driving a 1:1,5 mix anti-freeze: water and 2% millers extra cool, it is safe down to -20°C which i need here in austria

greetz

[Neon90424]

seriously just regular distilled water? why not regular glycol green stuff coolant isnt that cooler than water? I think I might need new piston rings I hope not, BTW with the WI im getting up to 8 psi now I seem to be getting like 2 psi more than before and as I have said before my turbo oil seals are most likely gone as it only seems to smoke when revving hard

[Sunny]

Hi,

in most cases destilled water is aggresiv in front of a high ph-value (~10)
check the PH-value of the destilled water before you fill it in, is should not be higher as 7,5

demineralized water is the best liquid to transfer heat, no one had ever developed a better fluid

glycol/alcohol have a low specific heat capacity and a bad heat carriage (wall to water and water to wall)

it is the same on the engine coolant system but you should use a corrosion protection (also in the intercooler)

- a minumum of glycol should be used
- clear the old/drained water through a air filter and re-use it, the old water is devolatilized

greetz

[Neon90424]

why thanks for the Info, why does everyone on here use the red stuff though? I'll put in water with anti corrosion and see if I get better performance

[mkernz22]

just put coolant in, stop beating around the bush and do the right stuff.

[3WayStunna]

I dont know why people insist on using anti-freeze in the chargecooler. Unless you have to deal with freezing conditions, which im sure the OP dosent then i dont see the point. As i have said in another thread, distilled water and water wetter is a gauranteed method to keep temps down by itself.

Water alone is able to hold more heat and transfer it away from the intercooler better than any other liquid tha would not otherwise be hazardous to engine ops. Why mess with those properties (aside from any corrosion problems) if they can do well on their own.

IF cooling of the intercooler is a problem, i can assure you, either lagging the chargecooler, increasing the size of the chargecooler radiator, or making the chargecooler itself larger, could solve any cooling issues (or maybe a combination of any or all of those methods) up too 350hp at the wheels!!.

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Feb 12, 2011 - 11:32 AM

[mak5603]

just put coolant in, stop beating around the bush and do the right stuff.

Dude, your just ripping on him to rip on him...you obviously didn't read the last few posts suggesting the use of distilled water, not coolant. Making what you just told him to do (put coolant in to avoid beating around the bush) beating around the bush according to what everyone else is saying...

Just sayin

[Neon90424]

I put in water and then just drained it and put in coolant! didnt help! BUT I DID BUY CARB CLEANER ! I unplugged the hoses from the stock oil catch can thing and sprayed it in both ways getting a hole bunch of gunk out and behold...MY BOOST CONTROLLER GOT 15.7 PSI!!!!!! and I was boosting constant 12 psi!!!...Then it seems it fell back to 8psi again...but It was like having a new car so what do you guys think? I re sprayed it and i got it working for a few minutes again and its back in safe mode it seems...maybe changing that catch can for a real one?

[Neon90424]

well the car is now at the mechanic and the engine bay lies in pieces...the ct20b was to blame for the oil, infact it was even covered in it.

[alex_xp]

Oye Neon90424 el auto te lo trajiste desde Iquique???
Saludos

[Neon90424]

Lo compre de una playa local y me imagino que este lo trajo de chile pero no se que parte de iquique. Vos estas en iquique?

[alex_xp]

No, estoy en santiago, pero tengo varios amigos y contactos que me traen cosas de iquique.
Yo tengo un coupe con motor 7A que lo importaron desde EEUU, espero hacerle un swap de motor pronto.
Saludos

This post has been edited by alex_xp: Feb 22, 2011 - 11:29 AM

[miguelst205]

People, please don't think that only exists projects like this in my country or persons who only make this type of cheap builds... Here we have a lot of type of people who have diferent concepts of how to make a good tune up...

I'm in another city, but in all the country we have excellent projects going on... like a Subaru Impreza STI 2007 and my own GT-Four 1997 which is in process...

I will make a thread of my project soon... so you may see that we do things right here..

And that statement "Cheap Parts Build, South America Style" is false... I would like that Neon talk for himself and not for everyone here in my country or in the Continent...

[Neon90424]

i'm fine by that its my car i am wrecking in the end and yes there are many high end builds down here and we are not primates...we just lack dynos to prove them.

[Neon90424]

According to my mechanic the windshield wiper fluid contains ammonia and is extremely corrosive my question is what damage could that cause if it is that bad if i keep running my w.i. with this fluid?

[presure2]

It depends on the brand. Most contain methanol as an antifreeze agent, which is actually a good thing because it raises the octane level.
I ran we fluid in my wi kit for years with no issues, and art (Lagos) has been as well

[Neon90424]

this one is just regular alcohol with water amonia coloring etc

[Culpable04]

in warmer climate countries, they are not concern about freezing points as temperatures don't go that low, so their windshield washer fluid is formulate as a glass cleaning liquid, ammonia is the most common cleaning agent in glass cleaning products. ( check the label of windex or any other glass cleaning product you have at home )

If the fluid you are using contains ammonia ( at any level ) you should stop using it, as your mechanic said, it's highly corrosive.

the best you can do is buy methanol and distilled water and mix it yourself ( 50/50 )

[Neon90424]

meth is almost 2$ per liter make that like 8$ a gallon down here...I was recomended injecting straight alky

[Culpable04]

straight alky meaning straight alcohol ?

if so, that would be fine as long as you understand the limitations of that.
straight alcohol will increase your octane but it won't do as much to cool down your mixure / combustion chamber. so detonation may still occur at high rpm / psi

[Neon90424]

what ratio do you recomend for a hot climate?

[Culpable04]

50 / 50 has been proven to be the best of both worlds, increase your octane and cools down your temperatures, can't go wrong with that, also it depends the size of the nozzle you are using and how many PSIs you are running.

[Sunny]

Hi,

methanol i very aggresiv especially to metall and also flameable
but give you the benefit of a increased knock level

if you just want to cool the charged air and exhaust temp. then just use water

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Mar 1, 2011 - 5:45 PM

[Neon90424]

Ok the turbo adapter should be done by today and i might get some pics of how the new lung fits in there

[Neon90424]

Everything is going to come together tomorrow. Mechanic said that the target boost pressure is 20 psi.

What power levels am I looking at here? anyone know how much HP you get from 20 PSI Wat/Meth on a 3sgte with a good free flowing exhaust?

[Culpable04]

make sure the turbo doesn't outrun your fuel pump

or thing will go pufff !

[Neon90424]

Putting in my gearbox has been a major pain in the ass to the mechanic any helpful tips ? I think they have to take the transfer case off to put it in not much room and it aint cooperating.

P.s. I took apart the exhaust side down pipe thing with the cowbell and the down pipe is Cat-less BLITZ another thing to add to the amount of nice JDM stuff on the car... too bad the TRD springs and struts were dead as a zombie

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Mar 19, 2011 - 9:28 AM

[Sunny]

Hi,

put out the engine is the best way to mount/dismount the gearbox

greetz

[Neon90424]

Lol ok I'll tell that to them the next time we try to do something... I will be giving a review as how the Godspeed turbo holds up, boosts, oil leaks etc. we are shooting for 20 psi with the map clamp

[Neon90424]

Still on standbye any predictions as to power range or anything exploding?

[delusionz]

Have you done anything about your low boost ct20b?

Didn't you say that you put a hole in your throttlebody rubber joiner?

[Neon90424]

The low boost was the ecu's emergency mode and I have given the turbo to a friend who had it repaired and put it in his 185.

pictures gallore! let the flaming ensue!!

heat wrapped intercooler and rad in the trunk...



the broken under brace



rear all clean


this is how she is



the mechanics 7 second 8th mile machine


engine bay



turbo n stuff in the back



local subbie waitin in line









this is how the clutch was


new clutch



she wouldnt go in



the downpipe



How the car is atm

[Neon90424]

Ok Now my mechanic said we are shooting for 20 psi with the Wat/Meth my question is this...I was googling and youtubing lol for 20 psi on a 3sgte. Everything I got was 400HP RWHP on the MR2's so obviously 300ish or so AWHP is my guesstimate taking into account the 30% loss from the 4x4.

Is the stock fuel system + FCD clamp + Wat/Meth with a 550CC Injector going to cut it or will I lean out? anyway around this?? an extra injector maybe??

[Culpable04]

stock turbo + water injection + 20 psi is ok, as long as you are addding enough water / meth to keep temperatures down

but you are using an aftermarket turbo, so you'd have to calculate how much more air can this new turbo move at 20 psi, chances ae 20 psi will be a little too much for stock fuel system.

[Neon90424]

raising the fuel pressure with a 255LPH pump will that help out the stock fuel system??

[Culpable04]

Help ? yes, solve the problem ? no

you need to stop taking short cuts, you need to tune SAFELY the setup you have, if you dont want to spend the money on bigger injectors, set the car to the maximum boost your current setup can take SAFELY and wait until you get bigger injectors capable of handling whatever airflow your turbo will be pushing at 20 PSI.

BTW if you add up the cost of all the little cheap fixes and shortcuts you have taken this far, you could have fixed your stock setup and have a reliable car that is fast and fun.

my advise to you would be to drop the car at a GOOD mechanic, let him fix the car ( without your input ) once the car is running, stop driving it like you are 2 years old and start reading A LOT so that you can later decide what to upgrade and how to fix the car yourself. Over the years I've learned, you can pretty much find any information you need here, people will help you, and offer their input when you are in trouble, but when you ask how to remove a bolt and the next day ask what's a wrench, and later what socket to use, you'll either get no response or better yet an unload of sarcasm and jokes.

[Neon90424]

Wise wise wise wise very wise =)


Oh btw finding a GOOD mechanic in Paraguay is like finding a lawyer that doesnt lie.

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Apr 6, 2011 - 11:20 PM

[delusionz]

Hey are you up and running now? Do you have an AFR gauge? Let us know what safe limits you find on your new turbo with the stock ecu and fuel system, With and without water. I'm in the same situation as you I don't want to go CT a 3rd time, finding a good one is like looking for a needle in a haystack.

[3WayStunna]

Wow, that engine bay looks like a mess..good luck on getting it all wrapped up though and hopefully running soon.

[Neon90424]

Thank you guys. As of now Ive got 2 adapters but its going to be a pain we have to clock the turbo and curve the adapter to the manifold a bit. The mechanic checks the AFR with a wideband sensor thats what he told Me i will have a narrowband AFR in the cockpit just to make sure I am not going into the red with this. I probably wont do it WITHOUT water lol the whole point is to see how far I can go stock with magic Water and Alky..

Yeah my CT was pretty raped in japan it had pieces coming off the fins apparently, it was romped to the point where it was losin oil allover the place and putting it in my intake.

And yes the Bay is a mess but that will change that AC hose is somewhat malleable and a pain in the ass the throttle cable is a long ass POS aswell these cars have their steering column changed by mediocre people in chile and I must say this one on the inside is pretty well done...not so good on the engine bay side but good enough that I still have A.C.

I take short cuts because I have no job and no Money . I cant spend $ on a 2K$ turbo So I have to make ends meet with what I have. I'll shortcut the hell out of this until I find out where it works and where it doesnt. I break something its just another reason to get forgies and borrow money/

[TRD_Ian]

there is no way of saying this with out sounding like a dick, ur slowly killing a car that people over here would kill for. invest in the proper parts and service. it will help alot in the long run. people keep telling you short cuts are going to get you know where....id start listening because these people have a hell of alot more knowledge and are only trying to help

[Neon90424]

I see your point. There are plenty of ST 205´s down here. I feel in no way that I am killing it. All I am doing is removable its not like I am giving the car to jeremy clarkson. Yes its a chinese turbo. No reason to discredit it because of where its made. I feel that if the proyect succeeds. Great for me, frown for you and the world still goes round. If it fails. flame on you can say I told you so as many times as you need. I searched for the limits. I found none. I´m in a search for the limits of the car even if i must wreck it to find it. you can post my example to others. hows about that?

Can´t buy a 205 in the states? move down here its like 6500$ for one, life is cheap no stress. no terrorists no speeding laws no highways. People retire and come down here and live with maids. our currency is worthless.

[Neon90424]

Ok the turbo now doesnt fit because of the internal wastegate! :S going to have to go with an external waste gate! SCREAAAAAMMEERRR PIIPEEE!!!

[Neon90424]

turbo didnt fit at all because of the rad. fan. its not a slim fan I'm going to try going with just 1 fan see if no temp spikes up and if the turbo fits we have to see if the internal wastegate will also fit big work day tomorri

[delusionz]

Hang in there buddy I'm in the same situation as you, I'm actually choosing the sensible option gt2860rs