Gears only shift when car is off Options

[m2736185]

I have a 95 Celica GT just under 200k. It had problems downshifting before, but I had replaced the gear oil and everything was smooth again. Today I stopped at a light and the car wouldnt shift into first...or second or anything. I turned the car off switched it into first then I was able to get it into second, but it wouldnt go any further or back to first. I had to drive home in second with my hazzard lights on. Luckily I was a mile away from home. The clutch seems like it is still strong. Could this be the pressure plate or something similar?

[Stambo]

possibly the clutch itself is dragging on the flywheel causing you not to put it into gear since it still thinks the clutch is engaged. When you put the clutch to the floor does the pedal just stay at the floor when you release it?

Give the clutch a good bleeding to see if you got any air in the system.

[m2736185]

Nope, the clutch comes right back when I release it. Normal stiffness

[Bitter]

clutch isn't disengaging for some reason, got fluid?

[96stgreendemon]

I had this problem too. There is an adjustment on the pushrods on the pedal, need to be adjusted out

[Neon90424]

does your clutch pedal vibrate when you push it down? my pressure plate blew up and I could not get it into gear without turning it off

[m2736185]

Yes there is fluid in there. I tried to move it it went into reverse but didn't want to go into any other gear. I turned off the car and was able to get it into first then the car made a weird noise and it was stuck in first. The car was moving foward and I pressed the clutch to stop it bu the clutch would not disengage.

[RabidTRD]

A bad throwout bearing will do that. Did it to my friends Volvo before. Couldn't shift into or out of any gears, replaced the throwout bearing and everything was good again. Co-workers throwout bearing blew up and it did that as well lol.

*shrug*

[JasonTX]

had a very similar problem. a spring on my clutch disk broke and became wedged between the clutch and the pressure plate leaving it always engaged. if you havent replaced your clutch yet this may be the culprit

[m2736185]

Either way....it looks like everyone is saying its a clutch problem. Well the car is about 13 miles away from my house. Lets hope I can atleast get it into 3rd and make it over there. How difficult is it to change the clutch? It looks really right down there

[JasonTX]

pretty good walkthroughs on the site. very straightforward

it took me all day but i did have an extra pair of hands and a tranny jack to help things along. also machine shop down the street returned my flywheel in about an hour

good luck man, let us know what the actual cause was when you crack the tranny apart

-jec

[RabidTRD]

Either way, it's not going to hurt to put a new clutch in with how many miles you have lol.

[m2736185]

Yea, I just wish it could have waited another thousand miles or so.

Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?

[JasonTX]

Yea, I just wish it could have waited another thousand miles or so.

Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?

your gonna take it off all the way so you can replace and grease the throw out bearing. you will have to remove the axle from the hub and in order to do that you;ll have to disconnect the strut from the bottom(2 bolts and the clip that that hold the brake line in place) i imagine you can just work arounf the strut but i went ahead and removed it. just undid the 3 bolts on top (under the hood on the strut housing) and got it out of the way.

this is a good oppertunity (although it sucks your clutch will have to be replaced) to replace the rear main seal and axle seals if their leaking.

also while my tranny was out i cleaned all the gunk off of it so i could see in the future if there were any leaks

good luck

peace

-jec

[xrav22]

Yea, I just wish it could have waited another thousand miles or so.

Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?

One of my springs broke of the plate and was jammed in there . I managed to wiggle and get it working again but 3 months later the clutch broke and pieces were rattling around. New clutch and working perfect noe

[m2736185]

Looks like I got one of those 1 day projects that will proly turn into a week ahead of me. So before I start taking things apart.....there is now way this could be the slave cylinder right? I had someone press on the clutch and it looks like the forks are being pulled out all the way each time.

[Bitter]

if the slave is pushing the fork then the clutch hydraulic system is working. I would just replace the master and slave anyways if they're old.

[xrav22]

if the slave is pushing the fork then the clutch hydraulic system is working. I would just replace the master and slave anyways if they're old.

The shop changed my slave with the clutch and it is much easier to press now.

[4v6]

Sounds like clutch drag.

I had the same issue on the gt4 with a cracked friction plate, kept dragging and wouldnt shift right.
Busted from too many hard launches i think.

[m2736185]

Well, I got the undercover off so I could get a good idea of what I had to do....everything looks doable, but there are 2 things I know is gonna be a pain in the ass. #1 the rear engine mount I dont see how the hell I can even get a wrench in there. #2 The bearing mount on the passenger side that I need to take remove inorder to take out the passenger side axel..how the hell do I get a wrench in there? Also, I noticed a lot of people said I had to remove the down pipe is this so I can lower the engine because it looks like I have enough clearnace to to remove the transmission from where it is

[rave2n]

Well, I got the undercover off so I could get a good idea of what I had to do....everything looks doable, but there are 2 things I know is gonna be a pain in the ass. #1 the rear engine mount I dont see how the hell I can even get a wrench in there. #2 The bearing mount on the passenger side that I need to take remove inorder to take out the passenger side axel..how the hell do I get a wrench in there? Also, I noticed a lot of people said I had to remove the down pipe is this so I can lower the engine because it looks like I have enough clearnace to to remove the transmission from where it is

I didn't remove the downpipe. Just did my clutch 2 weekends ago, solo.

The rear mount is the hardest part. Most say to rock the engine, or lift it with a jack. Thats all fine and dandy, but I've never been able to get the right angle.

What I do, is lower the whole suspension crossmember about 1 1/2 inches, then jack the engine up. That gives you just enough room to get the mount and crossmember aligned in. Simply just restore the mount center bolt, and tighten the right up.\

What do you mean by trans bearing mount? Just the trans mount? You need a 14mm deepwall to get the mount off.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 30, 2012 - 11:25 AM

[m2736185]

The bearing mount - mean the mounting bracket that needs to be removed to take off the passenger side axel. Wow...I can see this rear mount becoming a 5 hour ordeal. Well Let me start by removing the the axels and ill update with the progress

[rave2n]

The bearing mount - mean the mounting bracket that needs to be removed to take off the passenger side axel. Wow...I can see this rear mount becoming a 5 hour ordeal. Well Let me start by removing the the axels and ill update with the progress

Oh okay, that one. Thats easy enough, just need a rachet and extension. Going to need to raise the car up quite a bit, you be literally under there for quite some time.

The drive axle is going to be the pain, as you have to pry it out. If you don't have proper pry bars, I suggest going to pick some up now. Watch when prying out you don't hit the dust shield, and do not tension the axle. Hang it up straight with some line, then pry out on the pry points.

When doing the rear mount, the steering rack is going to be the pain.

[JasonTX]

i managed to get the rear mount off without dropping the crossmember. i think under the cross member theres a little plastic cover that exposes the nuts that hold the bracket that houses the rear mount. i removed those as well as the front and tranny mount then just jacked the motor up till i could remove it.

also for prying out the the drivers axle a shift fork fit it perfectly for me. i think theres you tube vids of this.

if you wreck them or their super old replace those axle seals while your down there i think their 11 bucks/each from toyota

-jec

[xrav22]

Well, I got the undercover off so I could get a good idea of what I had to do....everything looks doable, but there are 2 things I know is gonna be a pain in the ass. #1 the rear engine mount I dont see how the hell I can even get a wrench in there. #2 The bearing mount on the passenger side that I need to take remove inorder to take out the passenger side axel..how the hell do I get a wrench in there? Also, I noticed a lot of people said I had to remove the down pipe is this so I can lower the engine because it looks like I have enough clearnace to to remove the transmission from where it is

I have seen somewhere here that you need to remove the crossmember or take that bolt from the top. But the other bolt you are talking about I have removed it is done by getting them from the front and removing a little bracket (3 bolts) then get it from the back. I was able to do a good amount of cleaning while in there.

[m2736185]

Second day working on the car and surprisingly no major issues. I got the driver side axel off. It took a few minutes, but I found a nice spot to pry it off without damaging the seal.

I was able to remove 4 bolts on the bearing holder of the passenger axel, but there still seems to be something holding it on the top. Is there any trick to getting off the passenger side? I dont see any nice spots to pry it off with.

My car has ABS so I have the little abs sensor on the bottom of the hub...I took out the 10mm bolt holding it and had to pry it off with a screw driver and it split into two magnetic halves with some silicone around it...I hope I didnt break it because I know those are $$$

[mkernz22]

Yeah, you're ABS won't work anymore since you broke the piece, but you're in Florida so it's not like you're getting any snow haha Just learn to quickly pump the brakes if you need to stop fast. As for the passenger side, there are only 2 bolts on the carrier bearing bracket, on the back side of the engine. You then need to take the nut off the axle (or just remove the whole knuckle with the axle still in it). If you remove the whole knuckle, you need to take the two bolts off the strut, the 3 on the bottom side near the ball joint, and then the cotter pin and nut for the tie rod end. Tie Rod nut, then ball joint, and then strut bolts. It will make the process a lot easier.

[m2736185]

damnit, I should have just left it on there. Maybe I can find one in a junkyard. Yea I already got all that stuff off. I just needed to get the bracket off. Lets see I removed on bolt on top one on the side one on the bottom and one on the passenger side of the wheel. I guess I will give it another try tomorrow. Hopefully I can gave the tranny out by tomorrow

[mkernz22]

it's not even worth trying to get one out of the junkyard, it's going to break as well. Plus you'll need to take the axle out of the knuckle to pop the rest of the sensor out. here's a link on removing the drivers side, there's just the 2 bolts on the back side of the engine for the carrier bracket, on the passenger axle

[m2736185]

Just got both axels out. Got the front mount out and losened the crossmemeber bolts. I am about to remove all the stuff connected to the tranny now. BTW I noticed that the rear mount is bolted through the crossmember. If I remove those 3 bolts covered by the plastic covers in the rear of the crossmember do I need to remove the center bolt in the mount or can I jus jack the engine up remove the crossmember and remove the tranny like that?

[mkernz22]

Yes, you need to remove the center bolt on the rear mount. it's the only way to get it out. Just get a few long extensions and go from the drivers side wheel well to get it out or you can go under the car.

[m2736185]

Wow, that rear mount gave me hell, but I got it out after 2 hours of fighting. I got everything else off the tranny all I gotta do now is drop the tranny.

So I unbolt the tranny from the engine and then I unbolt the driver side engine mount? Do i unbolt the mount from the middle or from the 3 screws that are on the tranny


BTW I think I figured out what the problem was. I took off the starter and I was able to see the pressure plate and the flywheel. The pressure plate looks like someone took a hammer to it. So I am guessing one of the springs broke off.

[mkernz22]

the middle bolt can be a pain in the a$$ to get out (unless you jack the engine up and down) because the bolt will get stuck after it's halfway through. It'll will probably be easier to take it off with the 3 bolts (if you can) and then put it back on that way as well. Just make sure you have a 2x6 across the strut towers with a chain wrapped around it and connect the chain to the engine to support it (since it will only be on 1 mount). then just wiggle the transmission off. It's easier with two people and a jack to lower it down and pull it out.

[rave2n]

Watch out when dropping that trannie, there are alot of hidden things you may catch on, like the sensor that is hidden on the rear side of the trannie.

Good luck, and have patience!

[mkernz22]

yes, don't forget about the speed sensor. that wouldn't be good it you ripped the wiring out. and make sure you have the reverse sensor on the top unplugged as well

[m2736185]

Wahoo! I finally got the tranny off. I didnt order parts yet. Does anyone have any suggestions for a clutch set in the $150 range? I was thinking exedy or a f1 stage 1 or maybe a regular set from NAPA?

BTW looks like a spring broke off and that was causing all the problems







Uh oh Looks like i got a major oil leak coming from up top

[mkernz22]

do not get an f1. just get a regular OEM clutch setup from the dealer. my f1 disc went after 1,500 miles. All the springs blew out, and the TOB (throw out bearings) are junk. the OEM is just about $200, but well, well worth it. Take the pressure plate off and get more pics!!! haha

[JasonTX]

gonna go with mkernz22

considering your budget, for 50 bucks more i'd go with the toyota option. consider how long yours has lasted thus far. are you resurfacing your flywheel?

don forget axle and rear main seals

good luck

-jec



This post has been edited by JasonTX: Feb 3, 2012 - 4:03 PM

[m2736185]

I was gonna wait until I get the new parts to take everything off So I would remember how everything went on, but I guess I should take everything off to make sure the flywheel isnt damaged. I already made a few calls and found a place that will resurface it for $30 if it isnt damaged otherwise im gonna get a Sachs for $60 on eBay. I will have to get the rear main seal, but im going to hold off on the axel because I plan on replacing them next month when I get some extra $$.

Are there any other options in that price range other than OEM? I was hoping for an "upgrade". I really dont want to have to do this job again anytime soon so if its my best option I might go with it. I did a little research and many people said exedy was very close to OEM. I also heard southbend and ACT were really good, but they are a little out of my price range.

[Bitter]

leaky valve cover gasket, so common on the 5S.

[m2736185]

Took the clutch off today to see if I could resurface the flywheel...looks a little beat up. I am hoping I can because I had the clutch sent 2nd day air so I could get everything done by Tuesday. I will be replacing the axel seals in about a month when I replace the axels. What about the rear main seal? Which one is that? I am hoping I dont have to wait for it.

FLYWHEEL


FLYWHEEL TEETH


What is this? The flywheel doesnt need to go in a certain way right? You just bolt it up


Looks dirty in there


This post has been edited by m2736185: Feb 4, 2012 - 3:13 PM

[Bitter]

you need a flywheel.
rear main doesn't look too bad, hows the input seal on the trans? Most of that oil is from the valve cover gasket/distributor o-ring.


Shoulda got a V8!

This post has been edited by Bitter: Feb 4, 2012 - 4:09 PM

[Neon90424]

I had an F1 in my 7gc...worked pretty good for me...can't remember how long I used it for though...maybe 6 months and no probs

[mkernz22]

if you had any oil on the flywheel bolts, replace the rear main seal. actually just do it anyway. might as well do it while you have the transmission off
you're flywheel is done, just get a new one. resurfacing it won't help at all.

[m2736185]

Damnit I guess I got 2nd day delivery on the clutch for no reason since I gotta wait for more parts. I'm gonna order a sachs flywheel on Monday. Yea 2 of the bolts had oil on them....that's proly why there is a mess in there. I assume the rear main seal is the one that goes between the crankshaft and the flywheel. Do you have a part number? I tried searching and I only found the axel seals. I'm tempted to do the timeing belt and water pump now....I have no idea if it was ever changed.

[JasonTX]

rear main does not look bad. (its the rubber that sits around the holes you bolted your flywheel too)

but its not easy to get to. consider the cost of a new seal now vs a new seal and install when it starts to leak when you make your decision

either way good luck. its hard to tell on your flywheel hot deep thode pits are. but there is a lot of material to work with on there take it to a machine shop and ask what they think. remember your flywheel has a step any machine shop worth it's salt should preserve this when they resurface




peace

-jec

This post has been edited by JasonTX: Feb 4, 2012 - 11:54 PM

[mkernz22]

rear main does not look bad.

but its not easy to get to. consider the cost of a new seal now vs a new seal and install when it starts to leak when you make your decision

either way good luck. remember your flywheel has a step any machine shop worth it's salt should preserve this when they resurface


peace

-jec

it might not "look" bad, but if there is oil on any of the bolts you definitely want to change it while you're in there.
it's not feasible to take the transmission an all the other stuff back off just to do something so simple right now. if you do replace it, remember to take your oil out first lol

[JasonTX]

it might not "look" bad, but if there is oil on any of the bolts you definitely want to change it while you're in there.
it's not feasible to take the transmission an all the other stuff back off just to do something so simple right now. if you do replace it, remember to take your oil out first lol

just to clarify i agree with this. reread my post and it didnt read like it sounded on my head lol

[m2736185]

Does anyone know the part number for the rear main seal? This is the only one I could find W0133-1795517.

This post has been edited by m2736185: Feb 6, 2012 - 3:38 PM

[m2736185]

I checked the manual and I couldnt find the torque specifications for the bracket that the main rear seal is in.

[m2736185]

Well for anyone replacing the main seal DO NOT remove the housing unless you plan on resealing and removing the oil pan. You can just pry it out easily with a seal puller.

I bolted the transmission back up today...that was the longest 2 hours ever. Had to get 2 people to help me line it up. It would have been 100x easier if I had a lift.

So i ended up cleaning my transmission today...as i scrubed the top it revealed a "96" written in marker that was hidden under the dirt and oil. Looks like the previous owner must have replaced the clutch and tranny.

[rave2n]

Lol, did you use a jack or something to do the trannie? Jesus that thing is heavy.

You can run solo with a hoist =)

Glad to hear its going together good.

[m2736185]

Ha I tried to use the jack at first, but I couldnt get it aligned and it kept slipping off the jack so I had 2 people guide it up with rope and I was under benchin it. Still took a while to get i all aligned, but after that workout I called it a night. I should get everything together tomorrow

[m2736185]

I think im done tryin to get everything to the right torque specifications. "Suspension crossmember bolts "112 LBS" Now I have one suspension bolt because the other one snapped.

BTW for the axel/cv nut on our cars they can be reused right

[mkernz22]

don't always go by specifications. do it until it's really tight. the bolts on our cars are 15 years old and they are bound to break. yes the axle nuts can be reused just put a new cotter pin in.

[m2736185]

lol, yes I think im gonna use the "really tight" method for anything over 50 LBS. I was determined to finish this lil project today had to get pull out the lights, but I just manage to put everything back together. Started it up and ran it on the stands and everything is good. The clutch is a little soft. Im gonna try bleeding it a little more tomorrow and do a road test.