Car is STILL overheating, Need help! Options

[ILoveMySilly97]

Car:
1997 Toyota Celica GT

Location:
Central California(It's pretty hot nowadays since it's hitting summer)

When I started to notice the overheating problem:
My car ran with no over heating problem until AFTER I replaced both the ECT sensors because I had a P0115 CEL code. When I had the code my car would start then idle rough and then stall. So I bought an OBD2 CEL reader and I had the P0115 code. So I replaced both the ECT sensors and the CEL went away. The next day I was driving to Fresno(45 min drive). It drove ok(but I'm not sure because I didn't keep an eye on the gauge) until I started the car again about 6 hours later. At first it was at the correct temperature until about 15 min into the drive and I noticed it jumped up to 70% and back down. That was how and when I started the notice the over heating problem.

Problem:
Overheats once the car has been driven for about 30-40 min. My normal operating temperature is about 45%. When it starts to over heat. It'll jump up to about 65-70% then back down to about 50%. Then slowly to 45% again. Then like after another min it'll jump back up and repeat the process.

I noticed that when I was at a stop. The fan kicked in and the temp gauge jumped up to about 55% then slowly up to 70% then back down to 50% again.

EDIT: Just got back from testing my car and it seems to like to heat up to about 60% right until the fan kicks in. It'll drop to 45% then immediately and slowly climb back up to 60% and then stays there until the fan turns off. It'll slowly crawl back down to 45%. And it repeats itself. I'm thinking I might just have a faulty Coolant Temp Sensor, the one that goes to the ECU and not to the Dash. This was all done while the car was idling. Any ideas?

What I've done so far in order:
1st- Replaced both ECT sensors. 2nd- Replaced thermostat. 3rd- Replaced upper radiator hose. 4th- Flushed out the cooling system. 5th- Bled it out correctly. 6th- Replaced the radiator cap & bled it again. 7th- Checked for leaks, there were none. Coolant level stays the same.

EDIT #2: Ok. So here's an UPDATE. So. I let my car idle and heat up to about 70% and I just let it idle. It kept jumping when the fan turns on and off so I decided to unplug the sensor/switch so that the fan will always be on. When I did that trick. The gauge went down to about 45% and stayed there and never climbed or jump?

When it's connected. The fan will turn on for about 2-5 seconds max. I know that's too short. I think that's why I'm getting these problems. My fan is just not turning and staying on for the right amount of time. What I did was replaced the radiator and the fan switch. So I don't know why the fan isn't staying on for the right amount of time? Any ideas?

EDIT #3: Ok so I finally took it into a shop to test it out and they said my car is not overheating but the ECT unit isn't grounded properly because I had teflon tape on the threads. So I bought a new ECT sensor and installed it without the teflon tape. Results are NOTHING! The only relief is that it's not overheating at all. The gauge on the cluster is saying it's over heating but it really isn't. At least that's according to the mech I took it to. Any ideas about the ECT, PCM, and etc.???

This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: Jul 18, 2012 - 7:21 PM

[richee3]

Does it fluctuate like this regardless of whether you are driving or parked, or does it only do it when you're sitting?

[ILoveMySilly97]

Does it fluctuate like this regardless of whether you are driving or parked, or does it only do it when you're sitting?

Yea. It flows and everything. I'm thinking that I might've replaced the wrong sensor? I noticed that there are three sensors. There's one on the engine. There's also two more to the right of it (facing the engine). The ones I replaced were the two next to the engine. If you follow the upper radiator hose it'll lead you to both of the sensors that I replaced. Do you think replacing the one on the engine will stop the over heating? What is that sensor on the engine anyways?

[zfjohnson07]

sounds like the thermostat, if it gets hot then you haul ass and it goes down, usually thermostat.

[richee3]

Do you have a picture of where the sensors are that you replaced? The description sounds like the coolant temp sensors on the water neck.

[ILoveMySilly97]

sounds like the thermostat, if it gets hot then you haul ass and it goes down, usually thermostat.

It's been having this problem even before I replaced it with a new one.

[ILoveMySilly97]

Do you have a picture of where the sensors are that you replaced? The description sounds like the coolant temp sensors on the water neck.

The green circled ones are the ones I've replaced already. The one circled in yellow is the one I'm wandering what is it for?

[richee3]

The two in green are definitely coolant temp sensors, I believe one is for the ECU and one for the gauge cluster. The one in yellow is the oil pressure sensor, if I'm not mistaken. It's been a while since I've had a look at a 5S and a whole lot longer since I've seen a 7A.

[zfjohnson07]

maybe you have a small crack you dont know about, i had that problem with a gt before, it would get hot, and i thought it was the thermostat, then one day it was shooting it all into the reservoir. or maybe you have an air bubble in your radiator, if its jumping up like that and then going down. start itup and let it sit there, warm up and see if it gets hot and goes back down.

[ILoveMySilly97]

maybe you have a small crack you dont know about, i had that problem with a gt before, it would get hot, and i thought it was the thermostat, then one day it was shooting it all into the reservoir. or maybe you have an air bubble in your radiator, if its jumping up like that and then going down. start itup and let it sit there, warm up and see if it gets hot and goes back down.

When I was bleeding it. It was idling at normal operating temperature for about 20-30 min. The gauge didn't jump up and down at all. It stayed where it should be. There were no more bubbles coming out of the radiator either. Even when I "massage" the upper radiator hose.

You mean crack as in the hoses?

[zfjohnson07]

radiator could be cracked, hose could be cracked, could be the clamp not tight enough. my gt, i could drive for an hour no problem then when i would get to a dead stop it would overheat, would haul ass to get it to cool down and then it woud "dump" the antifreeze in the reservoir, small crack on the radiator i didnt see

[ILoveMySilly97]

radiator could be cracked, hose could be cracked, could be the clamp not tight enough. my gt, i could drive for an hour no problem then when i would get to a dead stop it would overheat, would haul ass to get it to cool down and then it woud "dump" the antifreeze in the reservoir, small crack on the radiator i didnt see

So how do you check for a crack on a radiator? I replaced the upper radiator hose but not the bottom.

The two in green are definitely coolant temp sensors, I believe one is for the ECU and one for the gauge cluster. The one in yellow is the oil pressure sensor, if I'm not mistaken. It's been a while since I've had a look at a 5S and a whole lot longer since I've seen a 7A.

Yea. You're correct. It is an oil pressure sensor.

[ILoveMySilly97]

So I popped the hood and checked the engine coolant level in the reservoir. it was low so I added more coolant into it and started the engine. I noticed that it was spitting out coolant out of the hole on the top to prevent it from overflowing. It spit out just about the same that I put jn. About a cup. Now it's not spitting it out anymore?

[Special_Edy]

A crack anywhere in the cooling system would cause massive loss of coolant. Even the most pinhole leak will become obvious whenever the cooling system reaches 5-30 psi of pressure, not sure what ours is but its somewhere in that scale.

Sounds like the thermostat to me. I would reccomend pulling the thermostat and testing it with a pot of bouling water and a thermometer. Thats why it has a reusable gasket

[ILoveMySilly97]

A crack anywhere in the cooling system would cause massive loss of coolant. Even the most pinhole leak will become obvious whenever the cooling system reaches 5-30 psi of pressure, not sure what ours is but its somewhere in that scale.

Sounds like the thermostat to me. I would reccomend pulling the thermostat and testing it with a pot of bouling water and a thermometer. Thats why it has a reusable gasket

Everyone's saying it's the thermo stat but I actually replaced it just a week ago AFTER the problem occurred. I actually thought it was the thermostat and replaced it but it didn't change the problem at all.

[zfjohnson07]

where did you get the thermostat from? i bought one from autozone that didnt look like the oem one, put it in and it still was getting hot, got a toyota oem one and never had a problem again!

[ILoveMySilly97]

where did you get the thermostat from? i bought one from autozone that didnt look like the oem one, put it in and it still was getting hot, got a toyota oem one and never had a problem again!

yea i got mine at AutoZone and it does look like the oem one. I know it works because there's flow.

[zfjohnson07]

theres flow, but its a little bit smaller, the one i got didnt look like the oem one for my car, i pulled mine out and the rubber seal broke, id just check it incase

[Galcobar]

yea i got mine at AutoZone and it does look like the oem one. I know it works because there's flow.

Working does not mean working correctly. If your thermostat is miscalibrated and opening too late -- at say 90C instead of the proper 82C -- then I could easily see the issues you're having. Proper testing requires bringing the temperature of the pot of water up slowly, so you can tell at exactly what temperature the thermostat opens. I had the opposite issue, my thermostat was opening early, but only by a few degrees below 82C. Rapidly heating the water made it look like the thermostat was working correctly because the reading wasn't precise enough.

The other possibilities which occur to me are the radiator cap being too high a pressure value, thus allowing the coolant to reach a higher temperature than it should, and the temperature sensor on the radiator fan being not turning the fan on at the appropriate temperature.

However, have you checked your ignition timing? You mentioned it was having issues with smooth running, and incorrect ignition timing is one of the possible causes listed in the BGB.

[Hanyo]

It can also be a clogged radiator. Failed water pump. Clog in the system. A trap air pocket. Weakened radiator fan. Sensor malfunctioning. Bad temp gauge in your dash. Inproper engine ground. Corrosion of that water ways in that water jackets of that block. Crack in engine block. Blown head gasket. Ect ect

Now you have to rule out each one of those problems one by one until you find the problem.

One of that first test you can do is to remove that thermostat and wire your cooling fans directly to the battery and see if it still over heat. If the car does not over heat you know your radiator is fine, your fan is okay, there are no air pockets and your water jackets are fine. Basically this free test rule out half the potential problems.

Do that test and report back.

[ILoveMySilly97]

yea i got mine at AutoZone and it does look like the oem one. I know it works because there's flow.

Working does not mean working correctly. If your thermostat is miscalibrated and opening too late -- at say 90C instead of the proper 82C -- then I could easily see the issues you're having. Proper testing requires bringing the temperature of the pot of water up slowly, so you can tell at exactly what temperature the thermostat opens. I had the opposite issue, my thermostat was opening early, but only by a few degrees below 82C. Rapidly heating the water made it look like the thermostat was working correctly because the reading wasn't precise enough.

The other possibilities which occur to me are the radiator cap being too high a pressure value, thus allowing the coolant to reach a higher temperature than it should, and the temperature sensor on the radiator fan being not turning the fan on at the appropriate temperature.

However, have you checked your ignition timing? You mentioned it was having issues with smooth running, and incorrect ignition timing is one of the possible causes listed in the BGB.

I never really thought about those small minor things. Yea I think my ignition timing is a bit off. I don't know how to time it so I'm going to ask my cousin to time it for me. See if it'll stop the minor misfire I have.

It can also be a clogged radiator. Failed water pump. Clog in the system. A trap air pocket. Weakened radiator fan. Sensor malfunctioning. Bad temp gauge in your dash. Inproper engine ground. Corrosion of that water ways in that water jackets of that block. Crack in engine block. Blown head gasket. Ect ect

Now you have to rule out each one of those problems one by one until you find the problem.

One of that first test you can do is to remove that thermostat and wire your cooling fans directly to the battery and see if it still over heat. If the car does not over heat you know your radiator is fine, your fan is okay, there are no air pockets and your water jackets are fine. Basically this free test rule out half the potential problems.

Do that test and report back.

How do you wire the cooling fans to the battery?

[Hanyo]

You unplug the fan and you run a wire to each one of the terminal with Some Terminals. You can buy the wires and terminals at any hardware or parts store.

[zfjohnson07]

cant he just pull his temp sensor and see if they turn on, if they dont then he knows they are bad?

also the for the air pockets, cant he just take the radiator cap off and let it run, while it sits there?


usually if your ac doesnt work even if everything is correct, it would be the water pump

This post has been edited by zfjohnson07: May 26, 2012 - 8:36 PM

[ILoveMySilly97]

cant he just pull his temp sensor and see if they turn on, if they dont then he knows they are bad?

also the for the air pockets, cant he just take the radiator cap off and let it run, while it sits there?


usually if your ac doesnt work even if everything is correct, it would be the water pump

Actually my AC blows COLD and it's already bled and I have a new sensor.

You unplug the fan and you run a wire to each one of the terminal with Some Terminals. You can buy the wires and terminals at any hardware or parts store.

Okay. I suck and scared of things when it comes to wires. I don't know why. Lol. Just always been like that. I'll have my in law do this test for me.

[zfjohnson07]

ill show you an easy way tomorrow

[ILoveMySilly97]

Just got back from testing my car and it seems to like to heat up to about 60% right until the fan kicks in. It'll drop to 45% then immediately and slowly climb back up to 60% and then stays there until the fan turns off. It'll slowly crawl back down to 45%. And it repeats itself. I'm thinking I might just have a faulty Coolant Temp Sensor, the one that goes to the ECU and not to the Dash. Any ideas?

This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: May 27, 2012 - 2:18 AM

[ILoveMySilly97]

The two in green are definitely coolant temp sensors, I believe one is for the ECU and one for the gauge cluster. The one in yellow is the oil pressure sensor, if I'm not mistaken. It's been a while since I've had a look at a 5S and a whole lot longer since I've seen a 7A.

Which one is the one that goes to the gauge cluster? And which one is the one that goes to the ecu?

[kevinpetch]

2 wires sensor for ECU / single wire one for gauge.

[xrayjm]

Just got back from testing my car and it seems to like to heat up to about 60% right until the fan kicks in. It'll drop to 45% then immediately and slowly climb back up to 60% and then stays there until the fan turns off. It'll slowly crawl back down to 45%. And it repeats itself. I'm thinking I might just have a faulty Coolant Temp Sensor, the one that goes to the ECU and not to the Dash. Any ideas?

To see if I have this right.... 60% the fans kick on, drops to 45% fans still running, climbs back to 60%, fans still running, fans then shut off, and then it drops to 45%?

if it climbs to 60% before the fans kick on then after the fans kick on it slowly drops back down to 45%((as in your first part of the description) and then repeats this process, I would suspect the ECT/water temp switch on the bottom of the radiatior as being bad.

I know on my 94 GT 2.2 the fans kick in before the gauge moves off of normal operating temp (about 45% on the gauge). My gauge doesn't move much off operating temp. I just was testing other items on my car, pulled up an 6-8% grade for about 10 miles, 3rd gear, about 5200 rpm(approx 65mph), A/C on, outside temp of 100 degress and the temp gauge didn't budge. I was also idling for about 30 min, in 108 temp, no A/C. Fans cycled on and off, temp gauge stood steady the whole time.

Here is a link for cooling fan troubleshooting for my '94. click here

I'm not sure about the second part of your description, fans shutting off at 60%, and then the temp magically cooling down. Would make more sense if your situation was fans kick on at 60%, cools to 45% and fans shut off, then repeats the cycle from there.

As a side note they must of made those '97 much quieter than my '94, cause there is NO way I can hear my fans kick on and off rolling down the road!

[Special_Edy]

Well my 94 GT doesnt fluctuate once it reaches operating temperature. It stays exactly in the middle of the gauge no matter what type of driving I do. Youre going to need to test each of the three sensors with a multimeter and a pot of boiling water to the shop manual specification.

[Galcobar]

With the further description, I'd also chime in on the fan switch being bad. A proper working fan switch keeps the temperature in the radiator -- and subsequently the rest of the engine -- from fluctuating. The ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor, which is the two-wire connector you circled, tells the ECU how to manipulate the air, fuel and timing. The ECU doesn't actually moderate the temperatures in the engine. That duty is left up to the thermostat which determines whether coolant needs to flow, and the radiator fan switch which determines if additional cooling is required.

Simply disconnecting the water temperature switch, which comes off the fan and is mounted on the bottom of the radiator, should cause your fans to run -- it's a safety measure, since the thermostat can keep the engine warm even if the radiator is below 83C. The water temperature switch should cause the fans to start running at 93C. To inspect the switch you'll have to remove it, which once you disconnect it is simply a matter of unscrewing it -- though you will leak coolant as a result so I'd do it when the engine is cold, and find something to temporarily plug the hole.

The water temperature switch can be inspected in the same manner as the other coolant temperature sensors, with a multi-meter and a pot of water on the stove. A key to properly testing these sensors is that they cannot be sitting on the bottom of the pot, since the pot's bottom will be a different temperature that the water. There should be continuity between the connector's terminals below 83C, and no continuity above 93C. If otherwise, replace it.

[bsamps4]

You should perform a leakdown test. Possibly could have a blown head gasket.

[trdproven]

^ I did not read the whole thread but it seems like everyone has mentioned the most common problems, if all else, then check the head gasket. Is your oil milky? or is your radiator coolant not looking like it? IDK, i just read pieces of the thread.

[199celica]

im surprised no one has asked yet but when was the last time you replaced your pressure cap i recommend 30k some people say 3 years if the cap isn't holding pressure thats why you are overheating even if it is fluctuating it could be caused by that i had the same problem i took the cap off of my integra and put it onto my celi and it solved my problem so give it a try another thing when was the last time you replaced your water pump you may have corrosion in the pump if you are using the toyota factory red coolant it has a solidfying agent in it to help detect leaks. just a thought good luck man.

[xrav22]

im surprised no one has asked yet but when was the last time you replaced your pressure cap i recommend 30k some people say 3 years if the cap isn't holding pressure thats why you are overheating even if it is fluctuating it could be caused by that i had the same problem i took the cap off of my integra and put it onto my celi and it solved my problem so give it a try another thing when was the last time you replaced your water pump you may have corrosion in the pump if you are using the toyota factory red coolant it has a solidfying agent in it to help detect leaks. just a thought good luck man.

X2 Time for a water pump. You need to know that is good before you spend a lot of time on fans ect. Even if it isn't toast yet it could br underperfoming.

[Special_Edy]

The water pump either leaks and makes a bunch of screeching noise or it operates 100% normally. If it isnt leaking out of the weep hole then dont replace it. Its two solid hunks of metal with a bearing at the center.

[zfjohnson07]

i didnt think of that, that could be it, its always the smallest thing, it does make a lot of sense, tho, if your temp is going down and up so easily and the fans are kicking on, i would have changed the cap when you changed your thermostat, and your anti-freeze

This post has been edited by zfjohnson07: May 28, 2012 - 8:58 PM

[ILoveMySilly97]

I don't think most of you guys are reading the thread before posting but I already had replaced my Radiator cap and the previous owner recently changed the water pump and he even left me with the receipt. I never thought or heard of the fan switch. I'll think I'll have to give that a try tomorrow.

[ILoveMySilly97]

Just got back from testing my car and it seems to like to heat up to about 60% right until the fan kicks in. It'll drop to 45% then immediately and slowly climb back up to 60% and then stays there until the fan turns off. It'll slowly crawl back down to 45%. And it repeats itself. I'm thinking I might just have a faulty Coolant Temp Sensor, the one that goes to the ECU and not to the Dash. Any ideas?

To see if I have this right.... 60% the fans kick on, drops to 45% fans still running, climbs back to 60%, fans still running, fans then shut off, and then it drops to 45%?

if it climbs to 60% before the fans kick on then after the fans kick on it slowly drops back down to 45%((as in your first part of the description) and then repeats this process, I would suspect the ECT/water temp switch on the bottom of the radiatior as being bad.

I know on my 94 GT 2.2 the fans kick in before the gauge moves off of normal operating temp (about 45% on the gauge). My gauge doesn't move much off operating temp. I just was testing other items on my car, pulled up an 6-8% grade for about 10 miles, 3rd gear, about 5200 rpm(approx 65mph), A/C on, outside temp of 100 degress and the temp gauge didn't budge. I was also idling for about 30 min, in 108 temp, no A/C. Fans cycled on and off, temp gauge stood steady the whole time.

Here is a link for cooling fan troubleshooting for my '94. click here

I'm not sure about the second part of your description, fans shutting off at 60%, and then the temp magically cooling down. Would make more sense if your situation was fans kick on at 60%, cools to 45% and fans shut off, then repeats the cycle from there.

As a side note they must of made those '97 much quieter than my '94, cause there is NO way I can hear my fans kick on and off rolling down the road!

Yea. It's like how you said it. And I meant when I heard the fan kick on when I came to a red light. My car only has a short ram so it's not a loud car. And lemme rephrase it. The fan turns off once it hits about 50%. I never really thought about it but my temp gauge actually goes up to the operating temperature pretty quick. For a fact much quicker than before I encountered the over heating problem. It takes roughly 3 min to get to operating temperature when before it takes about 6 mins? I don't know if that had to do with anything but I just found that not really normal?

[delusionz]

couldnt tell if its been asked or answered yet but is it blowing out water from the radiator into the overflow bottle?


by the way, instead of rewiring the radiator fans to run them full time you simply unplug the thermo-switch in the bottom, just leaving it hangin there the ecu will run the fans will full time.

[ILoveMySilly97]

couldnt tell if its been asked or answered yet but is it blowing out water from the radiator into the overflow bottle?


by the way, instead of rewiring the radiator fans to run them full time you simply unplug the thermo-switch in the bottom, just leaving it hangin there the ecu will run the fans will full time.

Yea it's blowing out water to the overflow bottle. That should mean there's good pressure. Right?

[Galcobar]

My car only has a short ram so it's not a loud car.

Is your Intake Air Temperature sensor plugged into your air intake, after the filter?

[Galcobar]

Yea it's blowing out water to the overflow bottle. That should mean there's good pressure. Right?

No. That means the cap is seeing enough pressure that its valve is opening to allow water out. If the cap is an incorrect rating, isn't on properly, or is not functioning correctly, then the pressure in the system and subsequently the temperature will be incorrect as well.

There's some simple tests for the temperature gauge. Disconnect the sensor (on the water neck, single-wire sensor) and ensure that the gauge reads cool. Ground the connector through a 3.4W test bulb and turn the ignition to ON; the gauge needle should move towards HOT. The gauge may also be checked at the cluster, for resistance. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the sixth-gen's BGB so I can't tell you which terminals on the back of the cluster are involved in testing.

[ILoveMySilly97]

Yea it's blowing out water to the overflow bottle. That should mean there's good pressure. Right?

No. That means the cap is seeing enough pressure that its valve is opening to allow water out. If the cap is an incorrect rating, isn't on properly, or is not functioning correctly, then the pressure in the system and subsequently the temperature will be incorrect as well.

There's some simple tests for the temperature gauge. Disconnect the sensor (on the water neck, single-wire sensor) and ensure that the gauge reads cool. Ground the connector through a 3.4W test bulb and turn the ignition to ON; the gauge needle should move towards HOT. The gauge may also be checked at the cluster, for resistance. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the sixth-gen's BGB so I can't tell you which terminals on the back of the cluster are involved in testing.

I'm going to have to keep that in mind. I just finished troubleshooting my car earlier. But I'll do this test tomorrow.

My car only has a short ram so it's not a loud car.

Is your Intake Air Temperature sensor plugged into your air intake, after the filter?

Which sensor is that? Is that the one that looks like a probe that's inserted into the intake piping?

[ILoveMySilly97]

So today I decided to replace my lower radiator hose because I noticed it was leaking a bit at the water outlet. When I went to remove the hose the water outlet actually broke off. It was worn out and old. Since it was plastic, it was reasonable to why it would be like that. I went to AutoZone and replaced it with a cast iron water outlet.

What I did today was replaced the lower radiator hose, replaced the water outlet, flushed the cooling system AGAIN, and bled it AGAIN. Took it for a run and it had no progress. It was still jumping. -_-'


^This picture. You can actually see a piece of the water outlet stuck inside the hose^







This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: May 29, 2012 - 10:52 PM

[Redmann813]

same problem no fix

[ILoveMySilly97]

Well. I just installed a new radiator fan switch and no progress. I already ordered a Spectrum Premium radiator off of Amazon. Should be coming in sometime in 3-5 days. If this doesn't fix it.....then I'll just hope it's not a blown head gasket. I have no obvious signs of a bad head gasket YET at least. No milky oil or coolant.

[Redmann813]

yea same here n i just put in a new rad.

[ILoveMySilly97]

yea same here n i just put in a new rad.

Damn. Now that I think about it. I could've spent all that money I spent to replace working parts to a shop that could've done a diagnostic check on it. -_-'

[Special_Edy]

yea same here n i just put in a new rad.

Damn. Now that I think about it. I could've spent all that money I spent to replace working parts to a shop that could've done a diagnostic check on it. -_-'

^^^This single post above should have its own sticky

[xrayjm]

This is why components should be tested prior to replacement.

[xrav22]

This is why components should be tested prior to replacement.

A pice of that old platic tube is probably blocking youtr thermostat openings mabey recheck the thermostat.

[Galcobar]

In your other thread on this issue -- you really should keep it to one thread -- you mention you installed a 170 thermostat. If you mean you installed a thermostat calibrated for 170 Farenheit, you put in the wrong thermostat. The 5SFE is designed to work with an 82C/180F thermostat. That you're not using a Toyota thermostat makes me also wonder if what you installed includes a jiggle valve and a proper gasket.

[ILoveMySilly97]

In your other thread on this issue -- you really should keep it to one thread -- you mention you installed a 170 thermostat. If you mean you installed a thermostat calibrated for 170 Farenheit, you put in the wrong thermostat. The 5SFE is designed to work with an 82C/180F thermostat. That you're not using a Toyota thermostat makes me also wonder if what you installed includes a jiggle valve and a proper gasket.

Isn't it the lower the better? The degrees is only determines when the thermostat opens correct? So it wouldn't hurt to open a just a lil bit earlier. I mean it keeps the engine cooler. Or am I wrong?

[delusionz]

I've just been through the same thing as you, No milky coffee oil/coolant etc. first the pipes corroded, then it overheated, tried flushes, trd stats, trd caps,... yep turns out block & head surfaces were way warped, gasket was leaking inbetween layers, it was just combustion pushing water out, there was no oil to coolant leak.

sorry pal, the more u drive it the worse its gonna get. rebuild it or get another motor now.

[Galcobar]

In your other thread on this issue -- you really should keep it to one thread -- you mention you installed a 170 thermostat. If you mean you installed a thermostat calibrated for 170 Farenheit, you put in the wrong thermostat. The 5SFE is designed to work with an 82C/180F thermostat. That you're not using a Toyota thermostat makes me also wonder if what you installed includes a jiggle valve and a proper gasket.

Isn't it the lower the better? The degrees is only determines when the thermostat opens correct? So it wouldn't hurt to open a just a lil bit earlier. I mean it keeps the engine cooler. Or am I wrong?

No, the engine is designed to work at a certain temperature range. If colder were better, Toyota could have skipped using a thermostat entirely to keep the engine near freezing when driving. Air-fuel ratios are adjusted based upon engine temperature. It's the same reason those chips which fool the ECU into thinking the air is colder are a bad idea.

[ILoveMySilly97]

I've just been through the same thing as you, No milky coffee oil/coolant etc. first the pipes corroded, then it overheated, tried flushes, trd stats, trd caps,... yep turns out block & head surfaces were way warped, gasket was leaking inbetween layers, it was just combustion pushing water out, there was no oil to coolant leak.

sorry pal, the more u drive it the worse its gonna get. rebuild it or get another motor now.

Yea. I'm going to get my car diagnosed if replacing the radiator doesn't fix it.

In your other thread on this issue -- you really should keep it to one thread -- you mention you installed a 170 thermostat. If you mean you installed a thermostat calibrated for 170 Farenheit, you put in the wrong thermostat. The 5SFE is designed to work with an 82C/180F thermostat. That you're not using a Toyota thermostat makes me also wonder if what you installed includes a jiggle valve and a proper gasket.

Isn't it the lower the better? The degrees is only determines when the thermostat opens correct? So it wouldn't hurt to open a just a lil bit earlier. I mean it keeps the engine cooler. Or am I wrong?

No, the engine is designed to work at a certain temperature range. If colder were better, Toyota could have skipped using a thermostat entirely to keep the engine near freezing when driving. Air-fuel ratios are adjusted based upon engine temperature. It's the same reason those chips which fool the ECU into thinking the air is colder are a bad idea.

So I should just go back and buy the 180 one instead. Might try to return the one I just bought since I still have the receipt.

[ILoveMySilly97]

Ok. So here's an UPDATE. So. I let my car idle and heat up to about 70% and I just let it idle. It kept jumping when the fan turns on and off so I decided to unplug the sensor/switch so that the fan will always be on. When I did that trick. The gauge went down to about 45% and stayed there and never climbed or jump?

When it's connected. The fan will turn on for about 2-5 seconds max. I know that's too short. I think that's why I'm getting these problems. My fan is just not turning and staying on for the right amount of time. What I did was replaced the radiator and the fan switch. So I don't know why the fan isn't staying on for the right amount of time? Any ideas?

This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: Jun 11, 2012 - 12:05 AM

[Galcobar]

Same idea as has been advanced before -- test the fan temperature switch. Also, test the fan itself.

4. INSPECT COOLING FAN
(a) Connect battery and ammeter to the cooling fan connector.
(b) Check that the cooling fan rotates smoothly, and check the reading on the ammeter.
Standard amperage:
4A–FE and 5S–FE 5.8 – 7.4 A

A $10 multimeter saves a lot of money by preventing the needless replacement of working parts.

You haven't mentioned getting your timing corrected. If that's the cause of overheating, all this other work won't fix the problem.

This post has been edited by Galcobar: Jun 11, 2012 - 5:13 AM

[RobbMeeX]

Cooler is not necessarily better. This thread is getting clogged with garbage (including this one). If the fan stops running, give it a spin and see if it runs on its own for another 3sec. If it stops, its fan time. Also that nonuniform thermostat could be throwing a wrench into the system. If that fails, check back in. We'll get this thing worked out!

[ILoveMySilly97]

Woke up this morning and drive the car in town and on highway for a total about maybe an hour with my radiator fan switch unplugged(thus letting the fan run non stop while the car is ON) and it didn't over heat at all or jump at all. It stayed at the 45% mark the whole time. So what I'm thinking what's causing the overheating may be something electrical and not mechanical? I'll have to test it like what everyone's been saying but I never have time to do it. I'll check back when I get the results.

[Redmann813]

I've just been through the same thing as you, No milky coffee oil/coolant etc. first the pipes corroded, then it overheated, tried flushes, trd stats, trd caps,... yep turns out block & head surfaces were way warped, gasket was leaking inbetween layers, it was just combustion pushing water out, there was no oil to coolant leak.

sorry pal, the more u drive it the worse its gonna get. rebuild it or get another motor now.

Thats what I think my problem is. The motors been losing compression since i got it 20k miles ago then it overheated one time and now it runs hot everytime i drive it

[zfjohnson07]

sounds like that thermostat, since you put a different one in to kick in at a cooler temp, it doesnt stay on as long as it would if it was the oem one. id say put the oem one in,

[ILoveMySilly97]

Ok. Finally had time to do the switch test and it passed. What I noticed yesterday was that There was a puddle of coolant sitting right on top of the fan motor. I thought it was odd so I wiped it dry with a napkin and let it idle for like 5 min and that same spot was wet again? What's confusing me is that the radiator is out of the box new and so is the upper radiator hose and the radiator cap. I inspected it and it seems like there's coolant leaking out from the INSIDE of the radiator hose where the inner thread is. My coolant reservoir was only half way full too. Now it's making me think if I have too much pressure? My Radiator cap pressure level is 0.9. That's the standard pressure level right?

What I think might be causing this is because I'm running the fan non stop to prevent my car from over heating so I'm thinking that the fan is keep my engine too cool so the coolant isn't getting hot enough to where the thermostat is opening to add some flow to the coolant? But I don't know though. That might just be my theory. I'm going to remove the thermostat tomorrow and run it like that for a while and see how my car runs.

[pandakid]

maybe your thermostat is getting stuck, happened to me and cracked 2 radiators.have you done a compression check?i've heard even thought you don't got "chocolate milk" you could have a bad head gasket.worth a shot.

[Galcobar]

Let's start with something simple -- your radiator hose should not leak. Colder coolant exerts less pressure, but even if the pressure was high the radiator cap should release it.

The cap specs are, to my knowledge, standard opening pressure of 74 – 103 kPa (0.75 – 1.05 kgf/cm2, 10.7 – 14.9 psi).

The system, other than the cap, should hold pressue at least to 118 kPa (1.2 kgf/cm2, 17.1 psi ).

Pressure in the system is created solely by the expansion of the coolant as it heats up, not by the water pump. The gauge and the ECU readings come from the the temperature of the coolant in the engine, which circulates around the block regardless of the thermostat being opened or closed. The thermostat opening allows some of the coolant circulating in the engine to enter the radiator, and some of coolant in the radiator to enter the engine, circulating in parallel to the coolant in the engine block. The fan on the radiator will not provide any meaningful cooling to the engine block.

Observe the engine over a range of temperatures to see whether it leaks when cold or only when hot, and to figure out where it's actually leaking from -- that tends to be useful in figuring out what part is malfunctioning.

Removing your thermostat should result in your engine running too cold, since there will be nothing to keep the engine block coolant at proper operating temperature. Without a thermostat you should see the temperature drop as you drive, then climb when idling.

This post has been edited by Galcobar: Jun 27, 2012 - 10:35 PM

[delusionz]

this is all pointless, tellin u from experience, first overheat is the start of cancer, the more you overheat the more you warp your block and head the less seal it makes the more it pushes out the coolant from the rad cap the more it overheats...... the cycle continues at an exponential rate.

in your instance it doesnt happen as fast in your 5sfe as it does in my 3sgte since you dont run as hot to begin with.

all these little things your doing is only prolonging getting to the point where your head and block are so warped they will never seal at all ever.

i also couldnt believe i had warped head&block&gasket i thought must be something i can fix.... upgrade to alloy radiator helped for 2 weeks it didnt overheat, but then wen it did.... it was nasty, and death. from then on overheated as soon as driven..

[gts4]

this is all pointless, tellin u from experience, first overheat is the start of cancer, the more you overheat the more you warp your block and head the less seal it makes the more it pushes out the coolant from the rad cap the more it overheats...... the cycle continues at an exponential rate.

in your instance it doesnt happen as fast in your 5sfe as it does in my 3sgte since you dont run as hot to begin with.

all these little things your doing is only prolonging getting to the point where your head and block are so warped they will never seal at all ever.

i also couldnt believe i had warped head&block&gasket i thought must be something i can fix.... upgrade to alloy radiator helped for 2 weeks it didnt overheat, but then wen it did.... it was nasty, and death. from then on overheated as soon as driven..

This happened to me. New engine, on it's way.