Cold engine likes to die Options

[PaddyTapps]

So believe it or not, it's been a little chilly in Florida the past few days. By chilly I mean low to mid 40s. I know its snowing in other parts of the world but for FL, it's chilly! I started my car Monday, turned over just fine and then promptly the rpm's fell to 0 and it died. I tried again, same thing. I thought if i drive it some it'll warm up and be fine. It died 3 more times when the clutch was pushed if, so i had to keep my foot on the gas so it wouldn't die used my left foot to brake to get to work. after about 5-10 minutes of that it would run without dying. I'm thinking that the battery's ok, else it wouldn't have turned over at all correct? Anybody have an idea why a cold engine would die like that? I'm stumped.

This post has been edited by PaddyTapps: Mar 27, 2013 - 3:38 PM

[DST94]

Does it only die when you push the clutch in, or will it just not run at all? And when it does is it abrupt or does it slow down until it dies? Have you done anything to the engine recently?

[PaddyTapps]

As soon as I turn it on it dies so yeah only with the clutch in and not on the gas. Haven't done a thing to the engine.

[PaddyTapps]

Just drove to pick up dinner and on the way back it started to shudder really badly, not only while idling at a stop light but while driving too. Accelerating and even maintaining 30-35 mph i could feel it, almost seemed like it was going to shut down, but never did. I'm thinking it's going to have to go to the dealership this weekend and that = lotsa $ cuz heck if i know what's goin on

[Syaoran]

It could be a number of things. Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel pump, stuck open injector(s), compression loss... If you haven't replaced any maintenance item (spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, spark plug wires, fuel filter) I'd start there, since it's a good idea to do it anywho.

[DST94]

It could be a number of things. Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel pump, stuck open injector(s), compression loss... If you haven't replaced any maintenance item (spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, spark plug wires, fuel filter) I'd start there, since it's a good idea to do it anywho.

My thoughts exactly. Beat me to it. . .

[PaddyTapps]

Thanks guys. I'm tempted to say that it's misfiring, which really is no surprise to me because the car has been neglected for who knows how long. I'm going to replace spark plugs & wires and sea foam the gas tank, oil, and vacuum tube to the intake manifold this weekend and an oil and filter change. Even though she leaks oil, I have no idea when the last one was done so definitely going to get that done. If that clears the issue up, great! if not then I'll look into the distributor cap & rotor and everything else. If all else fails, then to the service center we go

[Smaay]

save your money, that seafoam is just crap!

[PaddyTapps]

save your money, that seafoam is just crap!

If it helps, I saved $3 on it when i bought it a few weeks ago lol, but I've used it before and had no issues, what makes you say its crap?

[rave2n]

save your money, that seafoam is just crap!

If it helps, I saved $3 on it when i bought it a few weeks ago lol, but I've used it before and had no issues, what makes you say its crap?

On an old vehicle with alot of residue in the intake manifold, which I am assuming you intend to boost it in.

All it does is loosen it up into a gummy form a crud that clogs shiz further.

In the oil right before a change, I mean literally right before not 500 miles later, may help. Along with it potentially cleaning some items in the gas section..but other means are worthless IMO. Clogged the hell out of my TB on my ST when I did it, had to remove and clean it all out.

[PaddyTapps]

hm, never knew that. I used to have a tiburon i used it on and an explorer and never really noticed anything bad. I'll take your guys' word for it though, as I've never had to remove a TB or intake manifold. thanks for the heads up!

[nics]

sounds like idle speed valve to me

[PaddyTapps]

Pulled the spark plugs this is what i found:

in order as if looking at the engine bay straight on

looking down into where that spark plug came from, and notice some stuff around the injector? dunno how that got there.

another view.. looks nasty!

nice n shiny wet spark plug, smells like gas

Is this just a case of bad plugs or is there something else causing that one plug to be soaked in gas?

[Syaoran]

Looks like coked oil to me. Might want to check for leaks into the plugs/oil consumption.

[PaddyTapps]

Oil is definitely leaking from the oil pan gasket, need to get that fixed and check after to see how much oil consumption is goin on. I changed the plugs and wires this afternoon, no more dying but it idles extremely low. It drops down to about 200 rpm on start up and comes back up to about 500. I know the idler pulley needs replacing, but I don't think that the pulley being bad would make my rpms so low.

[Syaoran]

The idler pulley doesn't control your idle. It just helps the tensioner pulley give tension to the belt.

Check the rest of the ignition components, you might need to replace spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor.

[PaddyTapps]

Yeah I didn't think the pulley had anything to do with it. How can I tell if the the cap and rotor are bad?

[Syaoran]

Yeah I didn't think the pulley had anything to do with it. How can I tell if the the cap and rotor are bad?

It's hard, but usually they just lose conductivity and cause a weak spark or no spark at all. You can check them and see if they look worn out (dark, luster-less metal for example)

You could also take them to a local autoparts and ask for both and compare. I don't think there's any real "test" for them, they're just one of those maintenance items you replace every couple of months, like the gasoline filter.

[celica74]

Looks to me like you either have bad rings on #2 or a head gasket leak on #2. My 7a looked like that on #3. Also IAC might need to be cleaned for your idle issue.

[PaddyTapps]

Looks to me like you either have bad rings on #2 or a head gasket leak on #2. My 7a looked like that on #3. Also IAC might need to be cleaned for your idle issue.

My money is on the rings. When i can afford it they are going to get replaced. Also, I found the thread concerning the 5S-FE IAC cleaning process but my attempt to find one for the 7A-FE hasn't produced anything. Are they in the same place and is it the same process? Thanks for the replies and info everyone!

[PaddyTapps]

Im having some difficulty figuring out what the idle speed valve and IAC are and where they are located. I searched the repair manuals on here but came up with nothing. I need to go get a Haynes repair manual or something similar I just haven't gotten around to it. Can anyone shed some light on the subject? Some updated info on symptoms: after the spark plugs and wires change as well as oil and filter change, the car starts up just fine but after I drive for a while and the engine warms up, when I push the clutch in to come to a stop the rpms fall way way low and the engine starts sputtering and sometimes dies. Not all the time though, I can usually save it with a blip on the throttle but stop and go traffic is like a dance between the gas, brake and clutch pedals! talk about a pita...

[rave2n]

Time for new spark gaskets!

[PaddyTapps]

Time for new spark gaskets!

I've never even heard of those o.O

[rave2n]

Time for new spark gaskets!

I've never even heard of those o.O

I probally should have checked to see if that engine even has the gaskets, which are pretty much pretty O-rings. Only reason I stated that is because I recently had to change some on another vehicle that was leaking oil into the spark tubes. Which those were on the top of the valve cover, not the bottom, which yours looks like its leaking somewhere at the bottom of the spark tube itself.

[PaddyTapps]

Time for new spark gaskets!

I've never even heard of those o.O

I probally should have checked to see if that engine even has the gaskets, which are pretty much pretty O-rings. Only reason I stated that is because I recently had to change some on another vehicle that was leaking oil into the spark tubes. Which those were on the top of the valve cover, not the bottom, which yours looks like its leaking somewhere at the bottom of the spark tube itself.

yeah when i changed the plugs and wires, the wire tubes were dry, just the plugs looked like crap. I got pics on the fist page of the thread just incase you didn't see them. #2 was the plug the wasn't detonating completely.

[mindkiller]

The idle control valve and IAC (IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE) is the same thing, it is attached to the bottom of the throttle body u have remove the throttle body to get to it.

[PaddyTapps]

Looks like my Saturday's going to be booked haha! I've never taken a throttle body off before, hope i don't **** it up worse

[PaddyTapps]

Update: yesterday evening I checked my dist cap and rotor and found that they need replacing. Badly. The rotor contact it so pitted it looks like 40 grit sand paper. I'll be picking up the parts to replace tomorrow, then spending saturday installing them, as well as pulling off the throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV. I'll be taking some before and after pics cuz that area is freakin dirty (no plastic splash guard underneath the car). But now that I just took the cap off and pulled the rotor out then just put them back in, (hope I'm not speaking too soon...) the car is running like a champ! Didn't stall or die on the way to work this morning, idled normally in the 600-900 range depending on engine temp. And since i doubt it has ever been done, instead of crimping or plugging the coolant lines to the IACV, I'm going to drain and flush the coolant system too and put fresh stuff in. Has anybody here cleaned the IACV on their 7A before? I searched but only found stuff for the 5S. Also thanks for the info mindkiller.

[DEATH]

FYI - OEM is the only way to go on that cap and rotor. The ones from parts houses are crap. Also the OEM ones dont cost much if any more [They're actually cheaper for me but I get a 30% discount from dealer]

[PaddyTapps]

I have to pick up the IACV gasket from the dealership, so I'll get the cap and rotor there too. thanks for the info!