Fribox's 1996 Celica GT, A used car that likes to suck money out of my pockets Options

[fribox]

5s-fe, 5 speed, 221000 miles. Second owner. (Now nearing 225000)
It looks shiny in this picture, but it has a lot of problems.




Engine refuses to rev past 4500-5000 RPM (not that I do this often), if anyone has a solution to this I'd be very grateful. I've read a bit on here its either the catalytic converter being clogged or timing is off.

This thread isn't really much of a project thread, more of a maintenance diary. I don't plan anything spectacular with this car, but I'd like to share my woes and experience with you guys.
Maybe I'll come across something and find out what is wrong and help someone who has the same problem, who knows.
I was first planning a 3S-GE swap, but figure its not worth the hassle on a car with 225000+ miles on it. I've seen good things about 294 grind cams though, which is what I might do for the little more umf at the high end that I want.
But I'll post whatever happens to my car here.

This post has been edited by fribox: Mar 18, 2014 - 10:38 PM

[richee3]

The 5S is known for valve cover gaskets leaking. It's a cheap and relatively easy fix. Not that I'm saying that's where yours is leaking, just a decent starting point. The engine not wanting to rev could be the timing belt slipping a tooth, or it could be the distributor. At 221,000 miles I would be checking the timing belt anyway. I highly doubt that your catalytic converter would cause any revving issues, more likely just a lack of power. Don't worry, you aren't missing much over 5,000 rpm. The 5S is out of power at that point anyway. If you are being truthful when you say you seldom rev over 4,500-5,000 rpm then the BEAMS isn't the swap for you, as that's where it really comes to life. The headlights can be removed by taking the bumper off, which isn't difficult to do.

[fribox]

The 5S is known for valve cover gaskets leaking. It's a cheap and relatively easy fix. Not that I'm saying that's where yours is leaking, just a decent starting point. The engine not wanting to rev could be the timing belt slipping a tooth, or it could be the distributor. At 221,000 miles I would be checking the timing belt anyway. I highly doubt that your catalytic converter would cause any revving issues, more likely just a lack of power. Don't worry, you aren't missing much over 5,000 rpm. The 5S is out of power at that point anyway. If you are being truthful when you say you seldom rev over 4,500-5,000 rpm then the BEAMS isn't the swap for you, as that's where it really comes to life. The headlights can be removed by taking the bumper off, which isn't difficult to do.

If this is correct (and I hope it is) I don't think the belt should be slipping unless it was done improperly; I don't really know how timing works but I've read that if its off a degree(?) it could limit revs like that. I'll give the valve cover gasket a look. It doesn't seem to be coming from anywhere I can see, but the oil pan is coated in a very thin layer of oil and that is where it drips from so I was assuming that, but I'll definitely look around a little more. I guess if I could go over 5k I might sometime at the strip or something for fun, but I don't feel the need city driving and can't currently. I'm still sort of used to my old car too (a 2.5L jeep that didn't like revved past 3000rpm) and I'm sort of afraid to push this car with the high miles on the engine. I'm more of worried that whatever is hurting my top rpm could be hurting my gas mileage at lower rpm.

It could definitely be the distributor now that you mention it. While driving (usually over 35) the car has a little misfire(?) every now and again like someone tapped the breaks really fast, or like the engine just stopped running for the blink of an eye (but the engine doesn't actually stop). Its hard to explain I guess, and me not knowing much about cars doesn't help either. The plugs/wires were just replaced as well, if that helps. It was worse before that as all the plugs were basically toasted.

I'll give taking the headlight out a shot this weekend, thanks for the help.

[richee3]

On the plus side, you have a new timing belt! That's a HUGE plus. However, that makes the timing that much more suspect. It wouldn't be hard to pull the upper timing cover off and have a look at the pulleys just to make sure that everything is lined up. 221k on a 5S-FE isn't bad at all. There are plenty of 5S's around this forum that have that kind of mileage and still get driven hard on a daily basis. It wouldn't hurt to check/replace your distributor cap and rotor although I'd guess the timing being off a tooth more than the dizzy. The misfire thing does sound like a distributor issue more than timing. Who knows, it could be both.

[fribox]

On the plus side, you have a new timing belt! That's a HUGE plus. However, that makes the timing that much more suspect. It wouldn't be hard to pull the upper timing cover off and have a look at the pulleys just to make sure that everything is lined up. 221k on a 5S-FE isn't bad at all. There are plenty of 5S's around this forum that have that kind of mileage and still get driven hard on a daily basis. It wouldn't hurt to check/replace your distributor cap and rotor although I'd guess the timing being off a tooth more than the dizzy. The misfire thing does sound like a distributor issue more than timing. Who knows, it could be both.

Thanks for all the help! I'll pull off the upper timing cover tomorrow and give it a look. I'll also give the cap a check to see if it needs replaced, but I might as well replace it if I'm taking it off. If cap/rotor doesn't fix the problem and the timing isn't off I will probably look into buying a new distributor. Any way to get those things checked instead of just going out and buying a new one?

[Box]

Generally when the distributor goes out it'll throw a code and won't really run at all. That and the inside of it will look like spaghetti from where the copper coil has unraveled. Being the car is OBDII it definitely should be throwing a code for anything serious. As far as it only revving to 5K, does that apply to neutral as well? Have you tried revving it by manually moving the throttle? Could be something as simple needing to adjust/replace the throttle cable. If that's not it I'd look into the cam position sensor or MAP sensor.

On the misfire issue that could be the above, or possibly an ignition coil. Plugs and wires can also cause misfire. Though again being OBDII there should be a code for a major component failure.

[fribox]

Alright, gave revving it in neutral a try. Interesting results.
I got a little video
I love that stock exhaust though.
Throttle does go completely open when floored and does the same thing when messing with the throttle under the hood.

Also checked around the valve cover, seems to be very clean. I wont know until I have a gasket to put on it.

[Box]

It's as if it's in a limp mode. Is the check engine light on? Seems like something on the timing is off. Just find it odd that a Toyota dealership would **** up timing on something like that.

[fribox]

It's as if it's in a limp mode. Is the check engine light on? Seems like something on the timing is off. Just find it odd that a Toyota dealership would **** up timing on something like that.

The check engine light isn't on.
The car seems to run fine otherwise and has plenty of power through the rpm range it does go.
I was going to take the upper timing cover off today, but I don't feel confident mechanically to play with stuff like that. Maybe tomorrow I'll man up and give it a go.

EDIT: Just took it for a drive. Hit ~4700rpm in first and second. It falls flat on its face, it was actually sort of scary. It basically felt like I took my foot off the gas.

This post has been edited by fribox: Jul 20, 2013 - 11:32 PM

[fribox]

Did cap today, seems to run a bit better. Far less stumbling than before. Autozone didn't carry my rotor so when I buy new wires (even though these look pretty new) i'll order a new rotor.
I had to take off most of the intake, all the bolts were rusted and I'm surprised none snapped off.


This post has been edited by fribox: Aug 17, 2013 - 12:24 PM

[fribox]

Roof rust fixed, door rust fixed, dents pulled, chips filled, peeling paint blasted, new paint.

[Box]

Yay new paint!

[fribox]

Moar pictures. Never fixed that headlight, I should really get on that.

[Box]

Might as well just get projectors at this point.

[fribox]

<snip>

EDIT:
Taking it to a shop tomorrow, if it has a blown head it'll probably get scrapped or parted out unfortunately.
I hope that is not the problem, I don't want to let it go yet.

EDIT2:
Not a headgasket, mechanic said if I'm burning anything its probably oil, but that it was unlikely.

This post has been edited by fribox: Aug 29, 2013 - 8:54 AM

[fribox]

Dropped the new radiator in. (I'll get a pic up tomorrow)
Apparently the "oil leak" was just water spraying from the cracked radiator onto the greasy engine and collecting gunk as it ran down, giving the same look as oil.
I feel pretty stupid, but at least its fixed.

Stumbling still persisting, I'm very curious to what it is.

[JoshuaM]

Whoa, close call!

P.S. We WILL disown you if you don't fix up that headlight

[cheela]

Whoa, close call!

P.S. We WILL disown you if you scrap a celica THAT nice!

[fribox]

Haha, Thanks guys.
I've been away for some time, still haven't fixed that headlight, but the Celica is still running great (besides the continuing revving issues that seem to have no effect on every-day driving). Ticking away near 223k miles (passed 222222 without a picture, I was thoroughly upset). Been primarily working on my motorcycle so not much time has went into the Celica. I'm thinking of getting a new engine or rebuilding the current one sometime over the winter (probably between semesters) in preparation for greater things down the road and an overall better driving experience. I don't have a lot of money to drop on speedy-parts or suspension stuff, but I'd put some money in the motor if it meant a better car for a longer time. I have decided I DO like revs for the sake of revs and would like a 3S-GE engine, but the swap scares me a little and I do not have any idea what I'm doing; something to consider sometime down the road. Depending on how much the restoration costs me on my motorcycle I'll have enough money to either buy a newer engine, or buy a 3S-GE engine. I feel I'd be more satisfied with a 3S-GE engine, but like I said the swap scares me.

Anyway, thoughts? I do have a few mechanically-inclined relatives that *might* be able to help me do a swap if I needed to. I know a lot of information is around here regarding that swap, but I wouldn't want to be out of a car AND a lot of money.

oh, and picture of my 1968 CB350

This post has been edited by fribox: Oct 29, 2013 - 9:21 PM

[fribox]

Update:
Turns out that miss-firing/wobbling/whatever was actually a completely broken motor mount, I was guessing since the car was shaking a lot. Since the motor mount was broken it snapped one of the clamps on my exhaust and threw my engine into a closed loop hence why I was losing so much power and gas mileage. Valve cover gasket also got replaced and stopped the leaking. Not bad, things are looking up for my crappy little commuter; now all my engine problems are fixed.

EDIT:
Drivetrain is still shaking a little, nowhere near as bad as it was. Needs a new front engine mount too probably, it'll get put in next weekend.
Next I'll probably be replacing the trim inside the car with new woodgrain trim if I can find it. One of the rims is bent very slightly, but while I'm getting the trim (hopefully from a scrapped celica) I'll grab a set of stock rims since the ones on it are ugly as sin itself. Hopefully the scrapped ones are in good shape so I can rip out a seat too and use it to build a racing rig for the new Gran Turismo game so I'll feel right at home.

This post has been edited by fribox: Nov 23, 2013 - 5:39 PM

[fribox]

Hey, posting another update.
The front engine mount is in, overall everything is much smoother, but I'm having some issue with the whole drivetrain lurching forward on engine brake which I'll post about on it's own forum section. I actually tried to sell my Celica, but unfortunately it's worth nothing near what I need out of it, so its now becoming a real "project". For now I'll just lightly mod it and wait until in-between the spring/fall semester to do my 3S-GE swap so if its down for 3 months it wont matter. I'm guessing anything I do to it now: an intake, header, exhaust, whatever, wont fit on a 3S-GE engine? Anyway, expect some sort of improvement on my car since I'm stuck with it.

I also apologize for how I've jumped to conclusions on just about everything with my car so far. I know this really isn't a "project" right now, but I'm learning and want to share my woes with you guys
Anyway, take this very shiny picture of my Celica.

Spoiler: I still haven't fixed the headlight

[Tigawoods]

you should throw in the poly urethan motor mount inserts while your down there!

Is woodgrain trim common in celica's? I thought that was one of the super rare items


You are right, most of what you do wont be transferrable to the 3SGE, so it would be best to wait

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Jan 11, 2014 - 5:23 PM

[fribox]

you should throw in the poly urethan motor mount inserts while your down there!

Is woodgrain trim common in celica's? I thought that was one of the super rare items


You are right, most of what you do wont be transferrable to the 3SGE, so it would be best to wait

Is woordgrain rare? I bought it with the woodgrain trim, but now that you mention it I can't find any other celica's with woodgrain besides stuff that is custom.
I guess since most of what I do wont be transferable I'll probably stop at an intake since that can at least be easily modified to work on a new engine.

EDIT: Woodgrain trim appears to be a kit from bitrim, which is still offered.

This post has been edited by fribox: Jan 11, 2014 - 6:23 PM

[fribox]

-snip-

I changed the oil last weekend and the engine still runs smooth as silk nearing 225000 miles. Oil showed no sign of "milk" from coolant so my head gasket is A-OK. I'm still having the limp mode issue where it wont rev past ~4500rpm, I'm thinking the timing is off so that'll get a look when I work on it next. If nothing is wrong with the car it might just be a lazy tachometer, though I do lose all power when it stops revving higher (no redline bounce, no bad noises, etc).

I'm also in search of stock rims, so I'm going to see if I can grab some off a Celica at my local pull-a-part. My current rims are ugly and one is slightly bent from the PO.
Anyway, as I like to keep content fresh here is an old picture I took of my car which is new to you guys. I'll make sure to get some new pictures once I'm done working on the car and can wash off all the grime from it.


This post has been edited by fribox: Apr 21, 2014 - 2:06 PM

[sandusky1977]

I've got wood and see it in maybe 5% of the time, I think its super rare.

[njccmd2002]

Nope its not rare most people like me, yanked it out. Its so 90s. But that was me.

[mkernz22]

Those wheels are the stock bbs option, which isn't all too common.

[fribox]

Those wheels are the stock bbs option, which isn't all too common.

Really? They're incredibly ugly and one is slightly bent. Think I'd be better off getting 1 replacement wheel?

[ClevelandGaint]

If you need any help with swaps or questions with the celica just pm, i have a shop in akron , you can pm for information on anything on them, i have 3 currently but owned 6 total.

[fribox]

If you need any help with swaps or questions with the celica just pm, i have a shop in akron , you can pm for information on anything on them, i have 3 currently but owned 6 total.

I appreciate it. -snip-
CV axles confirmed for A-OK, now I'm worried about what it might actually be causing me problems.

This post has been edited by fribox: Mar 25, 2014 - 10:13 PM

[fribox]

New shifter cable bushings arrived. I've done them on a friend's car and they made a real nice difference on how the shifter feels, no real performance gain, but it feels so nice and solid.
Has anyone done a write up? I can't seem to find one using the search function. The install is pretty easy, but if one hasn't been done yet I'll probably do one.

[richee3]

I don't know that there is a writeup for these. I put the same set in my Celica a while back and actually have a little more play in my cables now than I did before. Not putting these down, but it's probably that my rubber bushings weren't as bad as I thought.

[fribox]

I don't know that there is a writeup for these. I put the same set in my Celica a while back and actually have a little more play in my cables now than I did before. Not putting these down, but it's probably that my rubber bushings weren't as bad as I thought.

My stock bushings are pretty thrashed; they're orange, dry rotted, and have shrunk enough for me to spin the washers that are under the cotter-pins.
If anything it can't hurt, I saw a big difference when I changed the stock rubber ones off my friend's Tiburon GT and if there is a chance the improvement is anywhere close to what that was it's worth a shot.

This post has been edited by fribox: Mar 26, 2014 - 2:39 PM

[richee3]

Yours are definitely a lot worse than mine were then. For the price, these bushings aren't bad at all. I don't believe there's a writeup yet so go ahead.

[fribox]

Both the shifter bushings were rusted to the mounts they were on, I didn't want to tear them since I couldn't get the metal to come up so I left them be. I'll get to it sometime, going to let them sit with some WD-40/Liquid Wrench for a few nights and if that doesn't help I'll have a shop cut off the metal pieces. I took my airbox resonators off though and it sounds pretty good; had a lid to a tube just the right size for the smaller resonator. Doesn't pull much better, in fact I think it pulls even worse than before down low, but damn it sounds sweet. It was pretty REALLY slow to begin with, might have a little more up high now though. Still wont rev past 4500, probably limp mode, no engine codes, no idea what it is.

[fribox]

Just ordered a set of these since I couldn't find replacement rims for a reasonable price. I had my current ones looked at and they're all beat up/bent so I figured its best to just replace all of them. I'm just going to scrap the current BBS ones since they're not suitable for anyone else to use.
-snip-
pics below

This post has been edited by fribox: Apr 21, 2014 - 1:52 PM

[fribox]

Hey, wow, it took forever for these to get here + put on. They look great in my opinion. The ride is much smoother too, plus the car probably dropped 15-20lb (unsprung weight is bad weight, I've heard) with the new wheels which are really light. Still needs a front end alignment to get rid of the rest of the shaking at high speed. Right now I've deemed my weird bucking to be a TPS, which I'm going to test before replacing, I have a much better idea of what that might be now. Currently looking to replace the interior trim and to clean out that headlight. The windshield wiper arms need painted too. After that's all done it'll be looking good.

[fribox]

Replaced the preconverter. It was reading ~10psi where it should read <3psi. Whole inside was melted. Toasted the rear cat and EGR.
Runs much better, revs faster, revs higher (got around 1200-1500 more RPM now), surging mostly gone now. Going to replace the rear cat and EGR then move on to the clutch.
Still need to fix the cosmetics, but it's much better now. Keeping running to a minimum for now until I've got cash for parts.