Flickering Oil Light at Low Idle Options

[Sinyk]

Hey guys, I have been noticing for the past while that my oil light will flicker when my car returns to idle when I am driving (1996 Celica 2.2L 5SFE). I have been doing some research on the cause and it sounds like it could be related to a stuck oil pressure release valve on the oil pump.

Anyone have any experience servicing one of these? I have read that you can service it with the pump off the most easily, but it requires taking the timing belt off of course which I would prefer to not do. It sounds like you might be able to service it from below by taking off the oil pan. I don't know if my pan has ever been taken off or the screen cleaned. That might be something else to check.

Any thoughts or experiences? I would hate for some greater damage to happen to my car.

for the record, oil level is great, oil filter is new (Toyota OEM) about 900 kms ago, issue happened with old filter as well. The issue also seems to hapen after the car is warmed up. I had my timing belt, water pump and seals replaced about 1500 kms ago. Could it be related?

Help!

This post has been edited by Sinyk: Sep 4, 2013 - 3:51 PM

[Box]

Could be the sensor perhaps, if you're lucky. Would test that out first and go from there.

[Pfloyd09]

When that started happening to mine it was the oil pump. Hope it's not the same for you.

[Sinyk]

I have had the sensor replaced a couple times after it went in the past.

Pfloyd, how much did it cost you to have the oil pump replaced, or did you do it yourself?

I see a price for the pump and seal would run me about $116 + shipping from 1sttoyotaparts. I just don't think that I cna do the work myself. That's a bit beyond my abilities

[Pfloyd09]

I had just moved cross country without my tools so I had a local shop do it. They said the book calls for 5.5 hours labor at 100/hr. Definitely get the OEM pump. I got an AutoZone one and had to have it re-done because the gaskets sucked and caused pressure loss after a couple weeks.

[Sinyk]

hmmm, i wonder if a local shop would do the replacement if I bought the part?


I just don't think i can dedicate an entire weekend to the job (plus it's getting into car territory I have never explored along with a probable lack of tools)


I'm also not sure it's worth servicing the valve on the oil pump if it ends up being the whole pump that needs replacing as the work to do the servicing would be about the same as replacing it, and with a new pump, I won't have to worry about the valve again.

This post has been edited by Sinyk: Sep 5, 2013 - 11:14 AM

[Pfloyd09]

You hafta drop the exhaust manifold, and there is a bolt on the right side of the motor that pretty much requires an impact wrench to break free. If you can find someone to do it for a few hundred, it is probably worth it. I would have shopped around for someone lower than $100/hr, but I was on a time crunch, and I needed it done right.

[Sinyk]

I have a usual mechanic, I'll see what kind of price I am looking at and if I can supply the part (if their price is high or the part is non-OEM).

[RabidTRD]

What weight of oil are you using and what is your ambient temp outside?

[Sinyk]

10W30. right now it's about 22C outside, roughly 72F

[Sinyk]

I was told it is a 6 1/2 hour job (i can't recall their hourly rate, but I think it's about $85/hr) so about $550 labour with parts on top, parts costing about $150, so about $700+ in the end

[Box]

Kind of sucks to have to spring over $700 for something that could've been done during the timing job and wouldn't have cost much more at that point. Another cause could be engine wear, but I don't foresee that just happening out of nowhere unless you race it around all of the time. What I would do before totally committing to replacing the oil pump is to get an actual oil pressure gauge and get a read out at idle throughout the RPM range. If the gauge shows low, then it's time for a new pump.

[Sinyk]

The symptoms of this issue actually crop up after the car has been driven for a while as the pressure valve presumably gets stuck open after being open for a bit. If my car sits at idle until it's warm, the issue never appears. I had the pressure checked a while back and it was fine, but I think they just did the test at a stand still.

[Box]

Being that letting it idle up to temp keeps it from happening I'd do that and baby it for the time being. Perhaps an engine flush could help, but I'd be afraid of it dislodging any large deposits and causing bigger problems.

[Bitter]

Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and verify what the oil pressure is.

[Sinyk]

Box: Currently I am babying it. I'm driving like a granny not letting the rpm's get too high and it seems I can get from home to work, or vice versa, pretty much without flicker until I get to my destination (about 15-20 minutes of driving)

Bitter: I have no idea how to install an oil pressure gauge

[Special_Edy]

As the oil warms it thins.

Something that hasnt been mentioned is to plasti-gauge the bearings if you remove either the oil pan(crankshaft and rod bearings) or valve cover(camshaft bearings).

The symptoms you are describing could be caused by worn bearings, even if it isnt knocking.

[Box]

Being he admitted to not being able to do the oil pump, gauging the bearings is out of the question. Being he can let it idle up to temp and not have any problems afterwards, I don't think it'd be bearings. Guess an easy way to find out would be to throw some 20W-50 into it and see if that stops the pressure drop.

[Sinyk]

will 20w-50 have any ill effects? That's pretty thick

[Box]

I was just saying use it temporarily to see if that stops it or not. I run 20W-50 myself to slow oil burn, but I live where it hardly drops below 40º so it doesn't really matter.