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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '14 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Hello fellow 6G owners. I first just want to say how much I appreciate this site. I am the owner of a 1994 Celica ST that I use as a cheap daily driver. However, when the car is at an idle it sometimes becomes really rough, and the steering wheel shakes. I don't know what's wrong and was hoping for some insight. Below is a brief video of what happens.
http://youtu.be/FIz-0w6XPl4 Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 3, '13 From Missourah Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
first thing I would check is vacuum leaks. if you take a cigarette, or an incense stick maybe, and slowly move it around all the little vacuum tubes around the intake manifold you would see if anything is sucking that smoke into it.
the other item to check would be the Idle Air Control, its the little sensor like thingy on the back side of the intake where the air intake hose attaches. Of course First you should check the basic ignition stuff like the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. if those are old and corroded replace that first. -------------------- Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '13 From Melbourne, Australia Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
Mine did that but it was on and off every few seconds
I got a new Air filter and it did the job, but this idle seems way more rough than mine -------------------- |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 23, '12 From Warrior, AL Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
An easier way to check for vacuum leaks is to use carb cleaner and spray suspected areas, if there's a leak it'll suck in the carb cleaner and choke. Odds are it's the IACV like mentioned earlier, nine times out of ten you can take it off and clean it and it'll be as good as new.
-------------------- 2001 Miata LS 5-speed
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() Joined Jan 25, '14 From california Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 3, '13 From Missourah Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
also, just for ****ts and giggles, I called Toyota and asked them what they want for a new IAC. He said $287,
![]() "Gasket?" I said, mine doesn't have a gasket and now I'm thinking it's letting some air through and that may be all the problem with mine is. -------------------- Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 20, '13 From Los Angeles Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
also, just for ****ts and giggles, I called Toyota and asked them what they want for a new IAC. He said $287, ![]() "Gasket?" I said, mine doesn't have a gasket and now I'm thinking it's letting some air through and that may be all the problem with mine is. The IACV does have a gasket. Looks like a frog's face. This post has been edited by 955SFE: Apr 22, 2014 - 9:30 AM -------------------- |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '14 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Sorry for the late response. Thanks for all of the input guys!
Took it to the dealership to have it diagnosed and they said it was just bad engine mounts (the right and left ones). Live in an apartment so am looking at possibly renting a jack at O'Reilly's and doing the replacement myself. Anyone have any experience replacing these? Is it better to just have Toyota do it for $430? |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 3, '13 From Missourah Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...hl=motor+mounts
here's a pic of when I did it just a while back, the back one is a real bitch. but you need to take the front one off and the whole center piece out to get it anyway. I needed two jacks, one under the motor and one under the transmission. I would go ahead and get the transmission side too. It's kind of rough but very doable in the driveway with some basic stuff, hopefully you can get it up high enough on some jackstands to have some room under there. the center bolt through the rear mount looks impossible to get to at first, im not sure now, I think I had to use a knuckle socket and an offset wrench to get in there. most everything is 14 or 15mm. the one that is really hard to get to is the one in the "front" of the motor, the timing belt side. but it doesn't have as much rubber in it as the others do, just be sure to keep the motor and transmission supported while you have the other two center mounts out or you'll break the bolts off it. -------------------- Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '14 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Wow, thanks for all of the info guys. Really appreciate it!
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