Help!! Smoking like its no tomorrow!, I need help to figure out what it is and how to fix it.. Options

[Tort1llaboy]

Hello.
Sorry for my bad english

My 7afe have been smoking blue smoke for some time now.. and the smell of oil is present almost all time (USE ALOT OF OIL!)... It smokes never when idle, only when i give it some trotle.
i have been thinking it may be the Valve seals, but it might be the piston rings aswell...
what is your opinion?

[Special_Edy]

Piston rings most likely. You can try to do a piston ring soak on it with Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil to see if maybe its a stuck ring, but most likely they are shot.

[Tort1llaboy]

i have done a compresion test and all the sylinders are the same..
160 psi on nr1
160 psi on nr2
165 psi on nr3
166 psi on nr4

any sugestions.?

[lagos]

A good way to tell if its your valve stem seals is to drive down a very steep hill. Keep your foot off the gas to generate vacuum for a few seconds, and then get back on the throttle. If it smokes as soon as you are back on the throttle, then you are seeing the oil that was pulled past the valve steam seal getting burned. Mine has started doing this recently and i have perfect compression and less than 5% difference on a leak down test.

It also helps to do this test when the engine is not fully warmed up. Once I am at operating temp, the symptom is less noticeable.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 4, 2014 - 12:13 PM

[enderswift]

compression rings might be alright, oil scraper rings might be sludged up

[Tort1llaboy]

Looks like a long weekend for me any one knows the piston rings specs? sizes and diameters?

[VavAlephVav]

engine/transmission stickys
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=73956

[Tort1llaboy]

dint find the size. but i got them the hard way found the spare pistons whit rings and measured them
1 Ring 1.20mm
2 Ring 1.50mm
3 Ring (oil) 3.00mm

[Tort1llaboy]

The order list is put in then
New piston rings,
New valve seals
New head gasket
New Main rod bearings
New Crank bearings
ect.

[Box]

The 7A is NOTORIOUS for burning oil due to stuck rings. Piston soak it and run a flush to free them up as much as possible and then start using 20W-50. Burning oil doesn't hurt anything, and if you can get it to where it doesn't have visible smoke and you only have to replace a quart every 1,000 miles then who cares.

[Special_Edy]

O2 sensors and catalytic converters dont like oil

[Box]

If he can get it to where there's no visible smoke it'll be fine, burning a quart every 1,000 miles is within factory tolerances. There's no point in spending a small fortune and the hassle of rebuilding the 7A to stop it from burning a little oil. Run the engine into the ground, then replace it.

[Box]

O2 sensors and catalytic converters dont like oil

Also anti-fouler and test pipe, problems solved.

[Bitter]

O2 sensors and catalytic converters dont like oil

Also anti-fouler and test pipe, problems solved.

not for the upstream sensor that sets the adaptive air/fuel ratio....

[Box]

Take it out and clean it once a month if it still smokes badly. That or yank the anchor out and throw in a 20 valve.

[VavAlephVav]

is burning a Quart per 1000 miles really within tolerance? that's like 3 quarts per oil change. I lose 2 quarts per oil change, a little into the coolant, a little down the back of the head, not bad enough to leave spots in the driveway and doesn't smoke.

[Special_Edy]

Its burning it in the combustion chamber which will mess stuff up, on the backside of the motor it is only going to coat you undercarriage and act as a rust inhibitor

[Box]

is burning a Quart per 1000 miles really within tolerance? that's like 3 quarts per oil change. I lose 2 quarts per oil change, a little into the coolant, a little down the back of the head, not bad enough to leave spots in the driveway and doesn't smoke.

Yep, actually up to a quart every 1,500 miles is. Pretty much anything they can do to minimize warranty work. Then you have Wankels that burn by design.

[Tort1llaboy]

The 7A is NOTORIOUS for burning oil due to stuck rings. Piston soak it and run a flush to free them up as much as possible and then start using 20W-50. Burning oil doesn't hurt anything, and if you can get it to where it doesn't have visible smoke and you only have to replace a quart every 1,000 miles then who cares.

i dint pass my MOT whit the smoking.

[Box]

Ahh, see where I live they don't have emissions or even visual inspections. So I tend to forget others aren't as fortunate. Still, I stand by what I said earlier with doing the piston soak and flush then changing out to 20W-50. You can even throw in some stop burn if that kind of thing is even sold over there just to pass inspection. It really won't cost anything and it should make it to where it can be lived with easily, just have to check your oil every 1,000 miles.

[Tort1llaboy]

Ahh, see where I live they don't have emissions or even visual inspections. So I tend to forget others aren't as fortunate. Still, I stand by what I said earlier with doing the piston soak and flush then changing out to 20W-50. You can even throw in some stop burn if that kind of thing is even sold over there just to pass inspection. It really won't cost anything and it should make it to where it can be lived with easily, just have to check your oil every 1,000 miles.

dont think we got that stop burn.. but why not just rebuild a head when i allredy have a spare one .
But when i take the head of, do i have to use new bolts to fit it back or can i use the old ones? i know its strech bolts.


Anyways tnx for lots of awnsers you guys are awsome

This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 7, 2014 - 4:46 PM

[VavAlephVav]

always use new bolts. at least that is the manufacturer recommendation they say the old bolts stretch and that could have been the first part of your problem.

[Box]

If it's valve stem seals anyway and not rings. Probably won't hurt to piston soak anyway. Go ahead and do new head bolts, might as well do timing and water pump if you haven't in awhile.

[Tort1llaboy]

I have a new timing belt for it aswell
was cheking on Auto data and it said No to change the head bolts... just tighen to 21 nm and then tighten 90° and then tighten 90° again...
Then i called the local toyota dealer and they sayd the same thing.. but i need to check if thay are damaged or stretched.
if thay are not its okey to use them again

[Special_Edy]

If your valve stem seals were leaking it would puff out a cloud of smoke when you first start it, after it's been sitting for several hours or more. Piston rings leak while the engine is running.

Perform a cylinder leakdown test, all you need is a compression tester, disconnect the gauge from the hose and attach the hose to an air compressor hose.

[Tort1llaboy]

yeah i have tools to do that just need the time... its so hot outside ist not funn working :S
but it will get done... i am curently working on rebuilding a head for that car

[Box]

Valve stem seals can leak severely while running too, a la Mitsubishi 6G72. Leak down and compression test like Edy mentioned would be a good starting point though.

[Tort1llaboy]

the problem is that it have been doing this for over a period of time... (10 month ish). so i think the rings are done. the previos owner dint know what he was doing, he just drove it like it was... i shuld have walked away from that deal whit that car, dint notice the smoke untill i was driving the car home after we signed a contract, Sold as it is. the car in it self looks strait and good.

[Box]

What happens with the rings is that the oil control rings end up stuck to the piston and let oil into the combustion chamber. Piston soaking and running an oil flush usually frees them up enough to where the burn is very little if at all. More or less ALL 7A's do this, it's just a matter of the severity of the burning. So that means they've been running and driving for years this way, so it's not going to hurt anything outside of spark plugs and the emissions equipment. Trust me, do the soak and flush and change it out to 20W-50 and that should help significantly.

[Tort1llaboy]

What happens with the rings is that the oil control rings end up stuck to the piston and let oil into the combustion chamber. Piston soaking and running an oil flush usually frees them up enough to where the burn is very little if at all. More or less ALL 7A's do this, it's just a matter of the severity of the burning. So that means they've been running and driving for years this way, so it's not going to hurt anything outside of spark plugs and the emissions equipment. Trust me, do the soak and flush and change it out to 20W-50 and that should help significantly.

okey i might give that a try. how do i procead?
btw the engine has run 260000 km... just for some info

[Box]

Do you have Seafoam available in stores? If so buy a bottle of Seafoam and remove the spark plugs and pour four ounces into each cylinder and let it drain into the crankcase. This can take a few hours, check with a flashlight to make sure it has drained. Then drive it for at least 30 minutes or up to 100 miles and then change the oil. Then fill up with 20W-50. There are harsher ways of flushing, but for the first time I'd go with Seafoam since it's milder.

[Special_Edy]

Do you have Seafoam available in stores? If so buy a bottle of Seafoam and remove the spark plugs and pour four ounces into each cylinder and let it drain into the crankcase. This can take a few hours, check with a flashlight to make sure it has drained. Then drive it for at least 30 minutes or up to 100 miles and then change the oil. Then fill up with 20W-50. There are harsher ways of flushing, but for the first time I'd go with Seafoam since it's milder.

In addition Id suggest rotating the engine, preferably by hand or else seafoam will spray out the sparkplug tubes, after it has had a chance to sit and then pouring more seafoam in. My typical piston ring soak is at least 24 hours with plenty of repourinv and turning the motor over. Gotta work it into all of the ring lands.

[Box]

Yeah, I forgot to mention removing the EFI fuse and bumping it over a few times. By hand would be best if possible, I didn't want to dig for my bar so I used the starter. I think when I did mine I waited 24 hours just to be safe. Also a good time to do this is when you're about a quart low.

[Special_Edy]

I wonder if carb cleaner would be good to use. Its cheaper than seafoam or marvel mystery oil and its much more caustic. You would definately have to change the oil immediately afterwards

[Box]

Everything would probably flash rust like a son of a bitch. I'd step up to penetrating oil instead.

[Special_Edy]

Everything would probably flash rust like a son of a bitch. I'd step up to penetrating oil instead.

Even with the seafoam or MMO I'd recommend a capful of oil into each cylinder prior to firing it up.

[Box]

MMO and Seafoam is used in oil and fuel, so I don't see how it'd hurt anything.

[Special_Edy]

MMO and Seafoam is used in oil and fuel, so I don't see how it'd hurt anything.

They are both solvents rather than lubricants. While there probably wont be any damage to the rings or cylinders in the seconds they are running "dry" on seafoam rather than oil, better to play it safe.

[Box]

They're kind of both.

[Tort1llaboy]

I tryed the piston soak and it dint work... so now i have started rebuilding a new engine I allready got most of the parts so dint se the reason why i shuldnt
Almost done whit the head, just some fine polish on the valves and im done

[msk59]

I will be starting to re-ring and headwork on my 96 ST. The compression check was not good on cylinder # 1 and 2. The other two were not good either. I did Piston soal twice, one with SeaFoam and second time with MMO. No luck.

Question: Does headbolts require a special socket?

Thanks in advance.

(Sorry to highjack your thread)

[Tort1llaboy]

I will be starting to re-ring and headwork on my 96 ST. The compression check was not good on cylinder # 1 and 2. The other two were not good either. I did Piston soal twice, one with SeaFoam and second time with MMO. No luck.

Question: Does headbolts require a special socket?

Thanks in advance.

(Sorry to highjack your thread)

No problem
i used a star shaped socket, i gues u are using the 6 edged one? if u are just dont do it, u will ruin the heads on the bolts.

[msk59]

Thanks. I have not opened the engine yet. I have both types of sockets but I saw on ToyotaNation a picture of a different (thinner in diameter) style used.

I am in the planning stage:

- making a list of parts/supplies I would need (spreadsheet)
- What I need to get from stealership and which one from RockAuto
- establishing a budget and
- Schedule.

I am Project Manager by trade so this is a project for me (LOL)

[Tort1llaboy]

are u rebuilding the engine or just the head?

[msk59]

I will take the head off and get it checked by a machiine shop to see if any of the seals etc need to be replaced. In the meantime I will pull pistons out, clean them and install new rings. Hone the cylinders. I figured if I have gone this far, might as well take care of any potential future issues if spotted earlier.

[Tort1llaboy]

smart move... u might aswell change all the bearings. but when u clean the head i found that pant thiner was the best thing to clean the exhaust ports whit worked like a BOSS

[Box]

I tryed the piston soak and it dint work... so now i have started rebuilding a new engine I allready got most of the parts so dint se the reason why i shuldnt
Almost done whit the head, just some fine polish on the valves and im done

Provided it's in the valve-train anyway, which hopefully it is. If not will have to remove the engine and redo the cylinder walls and pistons.

[Special_Edy]

The head will get cleaned when you have it resurfaced. You need standard twelve point sockets for the head bolts. Normally 6 point sockets are recommended for hex bolts because they are less likely to round a bolt head off, but I believe a 12 point bolt head and matching socket have more surface area in contact so this is likely why toyota picked it.

You should check the clearances of the cylinder bores before you put new rings in, they will tend to become out of round in the directions the crank rotates and can develop a taper(wider at the top or bottom) from the force of the piston rod. Take measurements on the top, center and bottom of the cylinder both parallel and perpendicular with the length of the engine, if your unsure then take the block to the shop and have them check and or hone the bores.

I second checking and replacing worn rod/main bearings. Couple $s worth of plastigauge since you already have the lower end apart, money well spent. Make sure the machine shop shims the valves properly, if you provide them with the camshafts and cam bearing caps they can do this for you.



You WILL need a head gasket.

You SHOULD get-
head bolts ($20, they are torque to yeild which means they stretch and are not intended for reuse)
Full gasket set or head gasket set. It will contain all the gaskets for the engine except perhaps fuel injector orings

You COULD get-
Timing belt, its a non interference engine so you can drive it till it snaps without damaging the motor.
Water pump, while you have the motor apart its easy to replace
Oil pump, shouldnt wear but the tolerances can get out of spec, you want to oil your new motor properly right?

Im sure Im forgetting a lot but there is some info to munch on...

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Jul 10, 2014 - 5:05 PM

[Box]

Bore and stroke it while you're at it.

[Special_Edy]

Bore and stroke it while you're at it.

Yeah if you have to go to oversized pistons anyways, but is there any larger crank without grinding down the rod journals?

[VavAlephVav]

Actually Smoking is not such a bad thing after all.
here is a public service announcement from Big Brother.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvLg4NuqZ-A

[Box]

Bore and stroke it while you're at it.

Yeah if you have to go to oversized pistons anyways, but is there any larger crank without grinding down the rod journals?

It was more of a tongue in cheek remark since I really don't foresee it being worth all the trouble when you'd be better off dropping in a 20 valve if you want performance from the A family of engines.

[msk59]

Thank You all for wonderful help and tips. This is what i lack as an experience. I have what Special_Edy mentioned. I have checked the prices of OEM from an On-line dealer and Rock Auto. I will try to go through every thing and whatever is needed will be replaced.

I have a brand new set of sockets that will be used on this operation.

Actually Smoking is not such a bad thing after all.
here is a public service announcement from Big Brother.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvLg4NuqZ-A

LOL. That is funny.

[Tort1llaboy]

But abote the head bolts, i have spokent to a Toyota head mechanic and he sayd that u don need to change the head bolts, unless they are damaged or streched, there is a limit on how far they can strech.
so i will not change my head bolts. But if thay look good and no damage, just go ahead and use them again

But Edy, or box. Do i have to use oversized rings after a hone?

[Box]

I always use new head bolts, you're already spending a good sum of money as it is why skimp out now?

Depends on how much has to be honed out, is it only needing resurfaced and cross-hatched or is it needing to be brought back into round? Whoever is doing the machining should be able to tell you how far over they had to go.

[Tort1llaboy]

I always use new head bolts, you're already spending a good sum of money as it is why skimp out now?

Depends on how much has to be honed out, is it only needing resurfaced and cross-hatched or is it needing to be brought back into round? Whoever is doing the machining should be able to tell you how far over they had to go.

the head bolts are super expensive.. around 150 usd for me here in norway

[Tort1llaboy]

i havent looked that good at the cylinders.
focusing on the head atm
Btw whats the diference betwen the two valve seals? i got 2 diferent ones in my rebuild kit? one is kinda gold looking and the other one is just gray:P i have figured that its one type for the intake and one for the exhaust... but whish go where?

[Box]

Try finding a hardware store that has a large selection of bolts, same thread and length in grade 8 is all you need.

They should be labeled in the kit, if not compare to the head.

[Tort1llaboy]

Try finding a hardware store that has a large selection of bolts, same thread and length in grade 8 is all you need.

They should be labeled in the kit, if not compare to the head.

i might do that. hmm the head i bought dint have any seals. so this might be tricky

[Box]

Try looking around the internet for information. Whoever you got the kit from, see if they sell the intake and exhaust seals separately and have pictures for comparison.

[Tort1llaboy]

Try looking around the internet for information. Whoever you got the kit from, see if they sell the intake and exhaust seals separately and have pictures for comparison.

think i got it now will upload picture tomorrow

[Box]

Wooo!

[VavAlephVav]

when you test the head for warpage you put a metal ruler across the face of the head(where it mates to the head-gasket and block) and then you try to squeeze a feeler gauge under it. If you can fit more than a 0.5 mm feeler under it needs to be resurfaced. So likewise when they say you don't need head bolts unless they are stretched, well they don't need to be very stretched you'd have to measure with a micrometer or something.
but you can get bolts on Rockauto.com for $15 to $20 and even if you have to pay that much more to have them shipped to where you are it shouldn't be too bad. they shouldn't cost $150 unless you're getting head Studs, which perform better but are expensive.

[msk59]

Very valuable information here in this thread. Eddy/box/vanalphvav thanks very much from both of us. These are the things what are called Tricks of the trade that one must know in order to do the work right.

I know a retired Toyota mechanic here in town and i spoke to him after i purchased the car. He replaced the axle and timing belt, water pump and all the seals on that side. He also did the compression check and #1 and #2 cylinder had huge difference between wet and dry, the other two were OK.

Like Tort1llaboy, I will start a thread for step by step and will have question for your gurus.

[VavAlephVav]

the shop that's going to do mine is nervous that they're going to get it apart and Then find out the head or block is cracked, because I bought it from somebody else for all we know it's already got stop-leak in it.
contemplating buying a whole motor, I know where a good rebuilt 5sfe is, but the shipping is going to make the whole thing about $800, but that's rebuilt, cleaned and a header. specially since mine has been cut on to make the camry motor fit he said he'd rather just get the right motor for it.
IDK I was hoping to get some struts and tires too

[Box]

Psssh, find a BEAMS or 1MZ to throw in there.

[Special_Edy]

All you need is a celica oil pan and oil pump pickup to make it a celica 5sfe. The balancing shaft assembly can be tossed in the garbage and the oil supply hole for the balancing shaft assembly must either be welded shut or tapped out and plugged with a bolt. Im sure the shop would do it for free, it saves them the trouble of realigning/shimming the balancing shaft assembly when they put the motor back together.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Jul 12, 2014 - 11:16 AM

[Tort1llaboy]

How do i upload pics?

[VavAlephVav]

you need to upload them to a photobucket account, or some site like that. then use the direct links they give you for the pic and copy/paste it into the post with the "insert image" button at the top of the dialog box

and I haven't even been able to find a decent Camry motor assembly and even if you do its from a junk yard and might be OK, or might not. there's a dude on the fb page that pulled his 5s and did a swap then went through and rebuilt the 5s, and he only wants $600 for it. that's what im considering now because it's from a 95 and its sure put together better than an old one from a random Camry.
I'm going to talk to this guy some more and find out what all he actually did to it, but he's got it cleaned and painted and a chrome header and he seems like he knows what he's doing that might be the best deal for me. this is my DD and I don't want to get away from the stock reliability. and if I get a motor I know isn't abused I can put another 300k on this thing without worrying about the motor at all.

This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Jul 12, 2014 - 7:02 PM

[Tort1llaboy]

this is what i figured of the valve seals



This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 12, 2014 - 7:36 PM

[Tort1llaboy]

So far so good

[msk59]

Excellent but more pictures and description, any tricks you learned when got stuck etc., etc.

Thank You.

[Tort1llaboy]

The valves ar now reseated and new valve seals are in place And valves are in place whit the lifters

Did the exhaust side first


Then the Exhaust valves


Then the Innlet side whit valves


And now the valve lifters


Used lots of oil!!

Tools i used to fit the valves


Must say the valve keepers vas a pain at first, but when i got in the groove it was easy

Sorry Msk that i dint show how i reseated the valves and how i cleaned the head.

This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 16, 2014 - 4:36 AM

[msk59]

No worries, thanks what chemical you used to make the head so clean. Also was it too difficult to pull the whole engine out? I am tempting to go that route.

[Tort1llaboy]

u can get the engine whit transmision out in abote 2 houers if u are not slaking of i used 2 days because the engine i have is from a spare car that was at the wreackers and thay wear closing when i started do pull it out

I used Something called tix to clean the head. Tix is greeas remover that is watered out 50 50. after that i used pant thiner for the exhaust ports WORKED LIKE A BOSS.
And after cleaning and drying, i oiled everything up whit 10w 40.

This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 16, 2014 - 9:12 AM

[Special_Edy]

Some tips-
Did you lap the valves before reinstalling them? You can get valve grinding compound and a suction cup tool at most autoparts stores. You basically smear some of the valve grinding compound on the valve seat and insert the valve(careful not to get it into the valve guides) and use the suction cup to rotate the valve quickly. It will help mate ( or "lap") the two surfaces together for a better seal.

I would suggest a bottle of molybdenum lube, also known as moly lube or engine assembly lube. Its thick and tacky, so it will stay in place until oil has a chance to dissolve it once the motor is running. Oil may be fine since the parts have already broken in but moly lube is always prefered.

From one of the pictures I am unsure whether you kept the valves and lifters in order. Since they have broken into their own respective valve guide or lifter bore you should always reinstall in the same order. If you didnt you will probably be okay, just make sure to check and double check the valve shim clearances. I save old egg cartons to store my valvetrain in when its disassembled, some people just use a sharpie to label the order on each piece.

Anyways, good job getting your hands dirty on one of the scarier areas of automotive repair! Now double check your valve shim clearance!

[Box]

+1 on engine assembly lube, valve lapping and order. Would be a shame to go through so much work only for it to have something go wrong upon reassembly.

[VavAlephVav]

There are several bids on YouTube showing how to lap/reseal the valves

[Tort1llaboy]

yeah i lap/reaseated the valves. and i keept the valve lifters in order i its not my first rodeo. haha.
i have heard some stuff abote the asembly lube, its just for the "brake in". i helped rebuild a cumings disel engine for a boat, and we was told not to use asembly lube, so we dint. But i gues the the 10w 40 will do good work anyways

[Box]

The assembly lube stays on the parts unlike regular oil, that way on the first start-up all of your critical parts aren't dry until oil can reach them.

This post has been edited by Box: Jul 16, 2014 - 2:06 PM

[Tort1llaboy]

yeah that what we found out. Molycoat its called that we got. but non of the mechanics that worked at the local boat "garage" have used or heard abote that.
so we dint use it on the cumings diesel.
But in my case. I will asemble the engine so as parts arive so i think this engine will be done soon

[Box]

I've always used it. Besides you change the oil and filter again within a few hundred miles anyhow.

Yay working engines.

[Special_Edy]

On top of that a capful of oil in each cylinder and bump the engine over for ~20 seconds with the ignitor or coil unplugged, that way the oil system is primed before you actually fire it up.

[Box]

Yep. Then cross your fingers and hope it doesn't blow up.

[Tort1llaboy]

now im just waiting for the main rod bearings and pistonrings

This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 16, 2014 - 4:54 PM

[Tort1llaboy]

Soon done whit the engine. Tought u guys liked a update



Head is complealy done and the main rod and pistons are in. so tomorrow the head goes on the block

Pistons before and after

[Box]

Wooo, cleanliness.

[msk59]

What chemicals did you use to clean the pistons?

[Tort1llaboy]

What chemicals did you use to clean the pistons?

i put the pistons in diesel for 24 houers. an then i just scraped the ring grooves whin an old ring thar i broke in to two, and used the "open" end of the ring.

[Box]

Kerosene is another good cleaner.

[Bitter]

It would not hurt at all to add a couple extra oil return holes to the ring groove.

[Tort1llaboy]

It would not hurt at all to add a couple extra oil return holes to the ring groove.

Kinda to late for that thay are allreddy in the block

[msk59]

What size socket to use on the head bolts 12 mm or 14 mm? . I got my engine apart. So far intake and exhaust are out and cams are out.

[VavAlephVav]

I think the head bolts themselves are Star tool sockets

[msk59]

I had a call in to my local Toyota dealer and they called me back to say that I can use 10mm, 12 point socket

[Special_Edy]

Normally a 12 point socket allows twice as many angles to fit the socket over the bolt head, but has less surface area to grab a 6 point head, so it will often round off a highly torqued 6 point bolt.

Toyota decided on a 12 point bolt because it has significantly more surface area than a 6 point bolt head

But I believe its a 12 point 12mm socket. The cam journal bolts are 10mm (6 point)

[Tort1llaboy]

I had a call in to my local Toyota dealer and they called me back to say that I can use 10mm, 12 point socket

You have the correct awnser here
10 MM 12 point

Normally a 12 point socket allows twice as many angles to fit the socket over the bolt head, but has less surface area to grab a 6 point head, so it will often round off a highly torqued 6 point bolt.

Toyota decided on a 12 point bolt because it has significantly more surface area than a 6 point bolt head

But I believe its a 12 point 12mm socket. The cam journal bolts are 10mm (6 point)

Btw the cam journal are 12 pont aswell

[msk59]

Well: Pulled the head last night and no problems. i had a long 10mm 12 point socket. The exhaust side were torqued high it seems because they are longer than the intake.

The oil pan took the rest of the night. Those elan bolts were a pain, especially the one next to the ac compressor. End up taking the AC compressor and its bracket out to get to it. I will be replacing those bolts and they are not cheap from Toyota dealer.

Head will be taken to a machine shop to have them go over.

Pistons will be pulled tonight. In order to remember which piston goes where, I used a small punch ( a spring loaded punch from Harbor Frieght) and marked dots 1 to 4 on each piston surface. The cylinder walls looked good and the ridge on the top was non-existant. Some cross-hatched were noticed.

Sorry to highjacked your thread again. I will start a new when I download the pictures from my camera.

[Tort1llaboy]

Well: Pulled the head last night and no problems. i had a long 10mm 12 point socket. The exhaust side were torqued high it seems because they are longer than the intake.

The oil pan took the rest of the night. Those elan bolts were a pain, especially the one next to the ac compressor. End up taking the AC compressor and its bracket out to get to it. I will be replacing those bolts and they are not cheap from Toyota dealer.

Head will be taken to a machine shop to have them go over.

Pistons will be pulled tonight. In order to remember which piston goes where, I used a small punch ( a spring loaded punch from Harbor Frieght) and marked dots 1 to 4 on each piston surface. The cylinder walls looked good and the ridge on the top was non-existant. Some cross-hatched were noticed.

Sorry to highjacked your thread again. I will start a new when I download the pictures from my camera.

no prob prob bro keep posting
so u all got ac in yours ? Lucky u

[msk59]

Yes, this car came with AC, power steering but no cruise and fogs. I got the factory fogs installed but do not have all the parts for the CC yet. Have the actuator and cable but would need the CC-ECU and some wirings.