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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 20, '03 From Annapolis, Md Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
what i said, will the camery sway bar links fit?? does any one know, im looking around, and im finding alot of links that look the same, just woundering what the real dif is?? thanks
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '02 From Dallas, Tx Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
They might. As long as they're about the same length and have the same sized ends then they'll be fine.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 31, '03 From GA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
i dunno, i would think no though
if what evil spped said is true, than just get the front ones and try using htem on the rear, as they are like $23 a piece and the rears ae like $53 a piece. ONLY diff i could tell is that htey were like a mm or so shorter |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '02 From Dallas, Tx Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Geez, for that much money, call Ground Control and get some Heim jointed ones. They're not that much.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 1, '02 From Minnesota, USA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
If you want, I can check with OEM replacement ones at work and see what the differences are.
-------------------- 95 Toyota Celica GT
Dead for now --> Soon to have a 3S-GTE 02 WRX --> This is for speed - Borla Exhaust - TurboXS BOV - Custom CAI 02 Civic EX - MB Quart Reference 5.25" Components - Rockford MTX 8" Subs in the doors - Alpine Type S Rear Fills - 2x Alpine SWR-1042D Subs in a custom fiberglass box - Alpine F345 Amp for the front doors - Alpine M605 on each Type R - Phoenix Gold wiring - Alpine CDA-9855 Head Unit - Alpine Amp link - 2x Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Caps - The best Viper 791 alarm install ever |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 20, '03 From Annapolis, Md Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
yeah that would help, where do you work?? thanks |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 31, '03 From GA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
the oem ones from my local toyota are $53 a piece do you mean the diff b/w the front and rear? |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 31, '03 From GA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
do you have any more info on this i dint know they made anythign along these lines but i'll give them a call as i'm about to chalk out a lil over $100 for the rear two at my local toyota |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '02 From Dallas, Tx Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Yeah, its just an internally threaded rod with rod ends (heim joints) on it. You'll have to get some hardware to attach it, but its not a big deal. You just need a couple long bolts, some spacers and washers and nuts. Measure the length of the stock ones from center to center. Call GC and tell them you need swaybar endlinks that are that length or close (they are adjustable, so they don't have to be exact), and tell them what size the bolts in the old links were (they're not really bolts, but you know what I mean, the threaded part that goes through the swaybar). They should be able to hook you up no problem. Don't bother looking for them online or in any catalog, you won't find them. Just pick up the phone and give em a call!
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 31, '03 From GA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
callin them now,
they said no go they only do it for bmws call and bother them and maybe we can get them to produce them for us 530-677-8600 he told me to check out Coleman racing which i'm doing now |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '02 From Dallas, Tx Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Nowhere you call is going to have links for a celica. You just need links that are the same length. Don't even mention what they're for. Just say 'swaybar end links'. Tell them the relevant dimensions and see what they have thats close. We run their links on our BMWs but both cars are in cali right now so I can't check them, but I'd be willing to be that they'll work on a celica.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 31, '03 From GA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
i see
is it worth my time to get those? or just go ahead and pay $53 aside for oem replacements? |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 20, '03 From Annapolis, Md Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
are you saying to use bmw sway bar links, cause i looked an there the same style, an i still have my bmw 525i, an e34, an im gunna try an pull them off an fit em on my celi, but thats when i get time.....
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 29, '02 From Dallas, Tx Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I was suggesting you get the heim jointed ones that GC makes for BMWs yes. I'll probably do that eventually. Its not as big of a deal on our cars as it is on some because the stock endlinks are not rubber mounted.
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From KC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
The stock ones are 10MM diameter bolts. I made my own last summer, had a devil of a time finding heim joints in stainless with metric threads and bushings, ended up being more than the stock ones,,,still on and still doing fine though. the front ones are so short, all you need are 2 joints, 1 with male thread and one with female thread, just screw the 2 together, (had to shave approx 1/4" off the end of both to get them short enough for the front and still have room for a lock nut.) the rears can be either an internal threaded shaft with 2 male threaded ends or 2 female threaded ends with a standard 10MM metric stud from any parts store between them. seems like the front were approx 60MM center-center and the rear were 100-105 MM.
Or you could use 3/8 SAE thread ends (much cheaper and easier to find) and use a shouldered bolt to fit the holes in the swaybar and the control arm tightly, I found some of these in a box of aircraft hardware I had around, so shouldn't be hard to come up with. Since the originals are actually a steel ball-and-socket design, I decided it was not worth the time and trouble to pursue this any further, you could probably save some money using the 3/8 SAE ends with shouldered bolts. (but I wouldn't try to use straight 3/8 bolts in the swaybay or control arm, it is really too loose a fit) |
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