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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 4, '12 From US Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) ![]() |
So I bought a new 5S-FE engine for a total of $963. It's the newer 5S-FE which comes with various upgrades, some of which include a crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor and 2 coils for a distributorless ignition.
I'll put some pics with descriptions where necessary, and I've found this is the engine to buy and build if you're going the 5S-FE route, be it N/A or F/I, or 5S-GTE. It's more EMS-friendly than the older engines, I'll explain why with the pics. Even though the newer engine is better in some things, the older ones are better in others. Here are the fuel rails side-by-side. ![]() As you can see, the injectors are the same. However if you look closely, the new 98+ rail is returnless (as it came in the engine I bought, they had 2 and both were the same). It is also smaller, much smaller. Returnless systems are worse than ones with return because the AFRs are less stable. The return system basically uses the fuel pressure regulator to keep the system feeding fuel to the engine more constantly. Ideally you'd install an adjustable FPR, but in my case that won't be necessary for the time being. The stock FPR I believe runs at 43.5PSI of pressure which is good enough. ![]() Here's one of the more important pics: ![]() That is the crank angle sensor wheel. I consulted with a friend of mine who has experience with these, and he told me it's a 36-2 wheel. It's missing 2 consecutive teeth. The beginning and end of that longer tooth slightly protrude, so you can count 32 separate teeth plus 2 on that longer one, and it's missing another two. The engine I bought also has this: ![]() That's a cam angle sensor with a single tooth. I'm not sure what the tooth indicates the sensor (camshaft position) but I believe it is either TDC or several degrees BTDC. Here are the coils: ![]() They're 2, 1 for each 2 spark plugs. They have 4 wires and I believe they are power, ground, signal and spark confirmation. I have to consult a wiring diagram to confirm that. That's it for now, I'll add more pics as I go through the engine. You can request any pics you'd like. -------------------- 1993 Celica GT Coupe - sold
1994 Celica GT Liftback |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 4, '12 From US Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) ![]() |
sounds like an awesome bottom end your building there, its basically the makings for a 3sgte stroker motor, show us a pic of the block deck, there must be enough meat in there to bore out for some oversize forged 3sgte pistons like 87.5 or 88mm That picture is coming soon once I get the rest of the old engine out, so I can compare them side by side since I know there's a couple of differences. There's a lot of meat, but I'm only going for .020" over pistons to have the block ready to accept 5sfe block/3sgte head hybrid pistons later down the road, since sadly they only come in +0.020 or 0.040 over. darn....you are just made it easier for me to go EMS. I was hoping I would have to do this all myself so I would get distraught and end up not spending all that time and money haha It's really not that much difficult than an oil pump change to do a reliable trigger wheel setup for almost any EMS. However unless you're shooting for more than 350whp, it's not worth it. I did it because my ECU was bad, and the Megasquirt cost me about twice as much as a used OEM ECU. Stock ECU + GReddy/Autronic ECU + J&S Safeguard is a pretty good piggy-back setup. Stock ECU will control the stock distributor better. But if you want to go wasted spark like I am (distributorless) you're gonna need to go EMS. This post has been edited by Syaoran: Mar 15, 2013 - 11:09 AM -------------------- 1993 Celica GT Coupe - sold
1994 Celica GT Liftback |
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