Less camber via control arms Options

[yellowchinaman]

People say you can't adjust the rear camber of the 6G.
The original rear arms have a rod length adjuster and front ones are fixed for toe adjustments.
Like the two seen in this link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CELICA-ST202-AT200...018&vxp=mtr

So my thoughts are that the front and rear control arms are of the same fitments in bushes?

If so, then theoretically if I buy 4 of the rear arms I can shorten them reducing the camber?

[ILoveMySilly97]

After installation. Would they be adjustable without nodding it furthermore?

[yellowchinaman]

After installation. Would they be adjustable without nodding it furthermore?

sorry what do you mean nodding it furthermore?

My idea is that once on you only need to get under the car and turn the buckles to extend or shorten the rods to reduce or gain more camber. Nothing else is needed to make this work. Just swap out the old with these.

This post has been edited by yellowchinaman: Sep 6, 2013 - 11:17 AM

[Galcobar]

After installation. Would they be adjustable without nodding it furthermore?

sorry what do you mean nodding it furthermore?

My idea is that once on you only need to get under the car and turn the buckles to extend or shorten the rods to reduce or gain more camber. Nothing else is needed to make this work. Just swap out the old with these.

Guessing typo? Modding versus nodding.

An issue with changing the camber via this method is that you're forcing the entire strut assembly to sit at an angle, which means all of the stress is going to be on the strut rob and the relatively thin metal holding it in the strut mount -- which is not designed to operate at that angle. It's why you see camber plates replace strut mounts, or why camber is more often adjusted by using asymmetrical bolts to angle the knuckle while the strut remains straight.

[yellowchinaman]

After installation. Would they be adjustable without nodding it furthermore?

sorry what do you mean nodding it furthermore?

My idea is that once on you only need to get under the car and turn the buckles to extend or shorten the rods to reduce or gain more camber. Nothing else is needed to make this work. Just swap out the old with these.

Guessing typo? Modding versus nodding.

An issue with changing the camber via this method is that you're forcing the entire strut assembly to sit at an angle, which means all of the stress is going to be on the strut rob and the relatively thin metal holding it in the strut mount -- which is not designed to operate at that angle. It's why you see camber plates replace strut mounts, or why camber is more often adjusted by using asymmetrical bolts to angle the knuckle while the strut remains straight.

I see what you mean but I don't see with the amount of negative camber I am after, it's not going to create any extra strain on any point because the outer CV joint allows the hub to bend much much more.
I was told the rods can be shorten over a cm in length which is way too much for what I need. only 5 mm's is enough for my rear wheels to be at 0deg. the only difference in pivot point I can think of will be at the top mounts but they are on a ball joint allowing the entire strut to swivel.
Sure there actual hub will be positioned deeper by a few mm's but the entire rear drive shaft can move in and out a lot more then that.
Top camber plates will be ideal but there isn't any in the market besides adjustable top mounts like BC but there is very little room in the chassis to allow it to move enough to make the difference. I have camber bolts but quite frankly I don't like the idea of using them especially for track use they tend to not stay in the same setting and they only offer about 1-1.5 deg difference.

I think it's going to be one of those things where until some one tried we'll never know. I'm going dig into my pockets to test this out at the end of the month and if it works, then it'll be a solution to a simple common problem for those with lowered 6G's.

This post has been edited by yellowchinaman: Sep 7, 2013 - 5:28 AM